T26 WRC - Frayz Engineering WRC S8 TARMAC SPECIAL - aka THE BOMBER
06 October 2011, 09:56 AM
#2611
Good news, ive found and fixed the little oil leak. There are 2 unused 1/8npt tappings in the oil takeoff plate that were weeping. Given these a good nip up now and all is well.
Bad news, alternator is still very dead. lol
Bad news, alternator is still very dead. lol
06 October 2011, 01:53 PM
#2615
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My advice mate, to avoid any further weeping, is to use a bit of PTFE plumbers tape on the threads on the blanking plugs. I bought a reel for 67p from local DIY shop so well worth the pennies
Glad to see she's up and running though, you've done mighty fine
06 October 2011, 09:51 PM
#2618
At foookin last ffs...
FWIW, I've never been happy with any sandwich plates I've ever used for sensors, and as a result I no longer use them.
Instead I use existing points in the block.
Get it ran in.
FWIW, I've never been happy with any sandwich plates I've ever used for sensors, and as a result I no longer use them.
Instead I use existing points in the block.
Get it ran in.
07 October 2011, 11:11 AM
#2624
Lol. The running in oil is mineral oil mate. Same stuff.
Gra, filter bag hit the bin in afraid dude. Although could fish it out and put it in eBay. Lol.
Swap to a different alternator hasn't resolved our issues and I think it's confirming previous suspicions regarding the powdercoated parts. The alternator will not earth through the powdercoat. So job for the weekend is to strip it back and clean all the earth contact points and see how we go. Simple but obvious huge oversight on my part.
Gra, filter bag hit the bin in afraid dude. Although could fish it out and put it in eBay. Lol.
Swap to a different alternator hasn't resolved our issues and I think it's confirming previous suspicions regarding the powdercoated parts. The alternator will not earth through the powdercoat. So job for the weekend is to strip it back and clean all the earth contact points and see how we go. Simple but obvious huge oversight on my part.
07 October 2011, 02:57 PM
#2626
Yeah same here Clive. Not going to push it from new bur also won't ***** foot around with it. If it's going to detonate it will do it within 10 to 20 min of startup.
Going to put an earthstrap direct from the alternator to my starter earth and see what happens now lol
Going to put an earthstrap direct from the alternator to my starter earth and see what happens now lol
07 October 2011, 11:27 PM
#2628
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hope that sorts it..
will bring my spare clocks over incase it is related to the charging circuit bulb, although the powder coating is my suspicious as it is a new changed thing.
Simon
will bring my spare clocks over incase it is related to the charging circuit bulb, although the powder coating is my suspicious as it is a new changed thing.
Simon
08 October 2011, 09:32 AM
#2631
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Might be worth going battery negative to chassis, batt neg to engine earth at starter, batt neg to alternator bracket and then engine earth to chassis too. That way theres no quibbles
08 October 2011, 09:47 AM
#2632
Currently it's setup as standard. Batt neg to starter mount on block and also runs to chassis. Engine loom runs to bolt mount on engine block.
I was going to run the alternator strap to the gearbox/starter mount where the oe battery neg goes to.
I was going to run the alternator strap to the gearbox/starter mount where the oe battery neg goes to.
08 October 2011, 08:35 PM
#2633
Okay guys, we're back on track.
Basically our issues were a dead alternator and poor earthing due to the powdercoated parts. Today i ground back all the contact points on the relevant powdercoated brackets and ground back the vehicle grounds to bare metal.
I also added an earth strap directly from the alternator to the battery neg cable.
Ign on now gives us a battery light which shes not had since the build and the voltage when running now sits at a constant 14.2V and resistance across the range is now 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms.
Huge thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for the replacement alternator which he got to me in less than 24 hours!! Only trouble is it isnt as clean as the rest of the bay, but im sure i can do something with it lol.
Basically our issues were a dead alternator and poor earthing due to the powdercoated parts. Today i ground back all the contact points on the relevant powdercoated brackets and ground back the vehicle grounds to bare metal.
I also added an earth strap directly from the alternator to the battery neg cable.
Ign on now gives us a battery light which shes not had since the build and the voltage when running now sits at a constant 14.2V and resistance across the range is now 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms.
Huge thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for the replacement alternator which he got to me in less than 24 hours!! Only trouble is it isnt as clean as the rest of the bay, but im sure i can do something with it lol.
08 October 2011, 09:07 PM
#2634
Okay guys, we're back on track.
Basically our issues were a dead alternator and poor earthing due to the powdercoated parts. Today i ground back all the contact points on the relevant powdercoated brackets and ground back the vehicle grounds to bare metal.
I also added an earth strap directly from the alternator to the battery neg cable.
Ign on now gives us a battery light which shes not had since the build and the voltage when running now sits at a constant 14.2V and resistance across the range is now 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms.
Huge thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for the replacement alternator which he got to me in less than 24 hours!! Only trouble is it isnt as clean as the rest of the bay, but im sure i can do something with it lol.
Basically our issues were a dead alternator and poor earthing due to the powdercoated parts. Today i ground back all the contact points on the relevant powdercoated brackets and ground back the vehicle grounds to bare metal.
I also added an earth strap directly from the alternator to the battery neg cable.
Ign on now gives us a battery light which shes not had since the build and the voltage when running now sits at a constant 14.2V and resistance across the range is now 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms.
Huge thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for the replacement alternator which he got to me in less than 24 hours!! Only trouble is it isnt as clean as the rest of the bay, but im sure i can do something with it lol.
Glad you got it sorted relatively easy Frayz, now let's get her run in so we can see some horses
Has Simon got to come back to put a proper base map in or is it ready to poodle about in?
08 October 2011, 09:34 PM
#2635
Nah mate, her map at the moment literally just allows her to run and idle by herself. Its not cut out for any driving. Hopefully Si will be back this week and get a proper base map and then i can put some miles on.
Wont take long to run in as i dont plan on doing much more than 300 miles before we map it for full power.
Wont take long to run in as i dont plan on doing much more than 300 miles before we map it for full power.
08 October 2011, 11:26 PM
#2638
Is that all you need to do these days, or is this just with your specific build?
I ran my last fresh engine build for 1500 miles on three base maps (2500rpm limit 500miles, 3500rpm limit 500miles and 5000rpm limit 500miles) until I got to full power
Great thread this pal, keep us posted
Cant wait to see it in action, hopefully in the flesh
Rob
08 October 2011, 11:39 PM
#2639
I don't believe in the softly softly approach these days. Running in like that was for old engines with crap tolerences and machining. If you go too soft then all you'll do is polish the bores and won't cut the rings in properly. Piston rings function using cylinder pressure. Without it, they won't seal properly.
This is just my own personal opinion anyway.
If something is going to fail due to a build issue it's likely to show itself within the first 20 mob of startup.
This is just my own personal opinion anyway.
If something is going to fail due to a build issue it's likely to show itself within the first 20 mob of startup.
09 October 2011, 09:33 AM
#2640
I don't believe in the softly softly approach these days. Running in like that was for old engines with crap tolerences and machining. If you go too soft then all you'll do is polish the bores and won't cut the rings in properly. Piston rings function using cylinder pressure. Without it, they won't seal properly.
This is just my own personal opinion anyway.
If something is going to fail due to a build issue it's likely to show itself within the first 20 mob of startup.
This is just my own personal opinion anyway.
If something is going to fail due to a build issue it's likely to show itself within the first 20 mob of startup.