Good news, ive found and fixed the little oil leak. There are 2 unused 1/8npt tappings in the oil takeoff plate that were weeping. Given these a good nip up now and all is well.

Bad news, alternator is still very dead. lol

 

Always good when its an easy cost free fix.

 

Nice one Frayz. Looks lovely mate

 

Nice one Frayz, nearly there

 

Don't want to be doom and gloom on you Frayz but i had the same prob with the weeping, nipped up and a short while later it started weeping again.

My advice mate, to avoid any further weeping, is to use a bit of PTFE plumbers tape on the threads on the blanking plugs. I bought a reel for 67p from local DIY shop so well worth the pennies

Glad to see she's up and running though, you've done mighty fine

 

Dont worry mate, im gonna do exactly that when i drop her oil for the first time. this is just to stop it for the first 50 miles or so

 

What's your running in strategy out of interest mate ?

 

At foookin last ffs...



FWIW, I've never been happy with any sandwich plates I've ever used for sensors, and as a result I no longer use them.

Instead I use existing points in the block.



Get it ran in.

 

It will be when it works:

50 miles running in oil
Drop the oil
250 miles of running in oil
Drop that oil.

Fill with proper oil, swap to race plugs and go map her to full tilt.

 

It's only there to space the oil cooler takeoff away from the block mate.

All my sensors cone from the main gallery.

 

Well done.

 

Lots of different views as we know on this, why running in oil and not just mineral after 50 miles mate

 

Awesome to see it running...

Wheres the filter and bag? Momento of the project?

 

Lol. The running in oil is mineral oil mate. Same stuff.

Gra, filter bag hit the bin in afraid dude. Although could fish it out and put it in eBay. Lol.

Swap to a different alternator hasn't resolved our issues and I think it's confirming previous suspicions regarding the powdercoated parts. The alternator will not earth through the powdercoat. So job for the weekend is to strip it back and clean all the earth contact points and see how we go. Simple but obvious huge oversight on my part.

 

Got you, I have used the millers running in oil for my last two for the first 50 ish. Will do again this time around and then use normal mineral of some sort for a few miles before the good stuff.

Clive

 

Yeah same here Clive. Not going to push it from new bur also won't ***** foot around with it. If it's going to detonate it will do it within 10 to 20 min of startup.

Going to put an earthstrap direct from the alternator to my starter earth and see what happens now lol

 

Good, good. Get them miles done mate then dyno time

 

hope that sorts it..

will bring my spare clocks over incase it is related to the charging circuit bulb, although the powder coating is my suspicious as it is a new changed thing.

Simon

 

Will be on it when I get home from work today Si and hopefully get a resolve.
I'm going to earth strap the alternator regardless I think.

 

You might need more than one

 

Might be worth going battery negative to chassis, batt neg to engine earth at starter, batt neg to alternator bracket and then engine earth to chassis too. That way theres no quibbles

 

Currently it's setup as standard. Batt neg to starter mount on block and also runs to chassis. Engine loom runs to bolt mount on engine block.
I was going to run the alternator strap to the gearbox/starter mount where the oe battery neg goes to.

 

Okay guys, we're back on track.

Basically our issues were a dead alternator and poor earthing due to the powdercoated parts. Today i ground back all the contact points on the relevant powdercoated brackets and ground back the vehicle grounds to bare metal.

I also added an earth strap directly from the alternator to the battery neg cable.

Ign on now gives us a battery light which shes not had since the build and the voltage when running now sits at a constant 14.2V and resistance across the range is now 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms.

Huge thanks to Alyn at AS Performance for the replacement alternator which he got to me in less than 24 hours!! Only trouble is it isnt as clean as the rest of the bay, but im sure i can do something with it lol.

 

Glad you got it sorted relatively easy Frayz, now let's get her run in so we can see some horses

Has Simon got to come back to put a proper base map in or is it ready to poodle about in?

 

Nah mate, her map at the moment literally just allows her to run and idle by herself. Its not cut out for any driving. Hopefully Si will be back this week and get a proper base map and then i can put some miles on.

Wont take long to run in as i dont plan on doing much more than 300 miles before we map it for full power.

 

 

Great news on the start up mate

 

Is that all you need to do these days, or is this just with your specific build?

I ran my last fresh engine build for 1500 miles on three base maps (2500rpm limit 500miles, 3500rpm limit 500miles and 5000rpm limit 500miles) until I got to full power

Great thread this pal, keep us posted

Cant wait to see it in action, hopefully in the flesh

Rob

 

I don't believe in the softly softly approach these days. Running in like that was for old engines with crap tolerences and machining. If you go too soft then all you'll do is polish the bores and won't cut the rings in properly. Piston rings function using cylinder pressure. Without it, they won't seal properly.

This is just my own personal opinion anyway.

If something is going to fail due to a build issue it's likely to show itself within the first 20 mob of startup.

 

Very well put