rob84

iTrader: (5)

605cc injectors if I recall correctly they should see 400 without much problem

david.mufcsti

Just a quick one. i'm getting a bit of a strong smell of oil inside and outside the car i had a quck look under the bonnet and underneath the car. would the fuel injectors cause that or do you might think i have an oil leak

spindle121

Brought 2010 WRX STI hatch in dec new to all this after reading all this bin sh!!!! My self car has done 71000 up to now have bin told by the dealer there has bin no major work done was thinking do I have good one or will it go pop soon ???? No oil lose any thoughts. Plz

Tidgy

Sounds ok at the min, how long that lasts? who knows.

If you can afford it get it forged now rather than wait for it to go boom. It may never let go, but you never know.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Give us a call to talk through the options. A stitch in time and all that.

David APi
01926 614333

raly-pete

As a mechanic, if the engine is detonating?, it doesn't matter if you have pistons made out of kryptonite! 😂, your always going to go pop eventually.. In my eyes? It's like having a coolant hose split due to excessive pressure in the system.would you just replace with stronger coolant pipes?.... Or would you try to figure out why the pressure is in the system?.

fpan

iTrader: (11)

If it pops fix it, it may never will especially if you don't drive it with the pedal to the metal constantly.

salsa-king

fix it if it needs fixing.. spending £5k to sort it will still be cheaper than you buying a new car with a PX car with blown engine + you'll have a better engine in your car.

but don't worry till you need to worry.

spindle121

Thanks for your help. Thinking of Enginetuner Plymouth to do re build any thoughts. ?????

salsa-king

has your engine gone then now?

spindle121

NO. Still going strong. Lol. 78.000 Looking to put on inviidia n1 exhaust and Cobb air intake so maybe a rebuild first. ???????

salsa-king

Save your money then.

Put those bits on.. get it re mapped at the same time and enjoy.

just get someone to re map it that know what they're doing.. PLEASE!!!

alexprz

After years of saving up and gaining hands on experience with my 2004 wrx, I was finally ready to buy my dream car, an STI hatch. While looking for a used STI i was well aware of all the risks as I'm constantly researching and have experienced ring land failure myself and with friends cars. I was convinced that if i was able to find a car with a low milage engine replaced by SUBARU themselves i would be able to avoid these issues for a decent amount of time. After endless months of searching a found a 2nd owner all stock 2008 sti with 87,000 miles. The car was very well maintained (with receipts) and overall seemed to be well taken care of. The car had an brand new OEM short block installed by SUBARU at 62,000 miles, with almost 8 thousand dollars in receipts. Ive owned the car for a few months now and for the most part its everything i could ask for. I use it to commute from San Luis Obispo to Tahoe consistently for school and have already made the trip about 5 times in the sti. Recently on my drive from SLO (about 320 miles in 80 miles to go) I heard a strange rattling like sound coming from the engine bay. I immediately pulled over and as i was rolling up to a gas station my car shut off, I turned the car back on instantly but this time heard a loud knocking from my engine bay. I knew right away it was the notorious Subaru rod knock. I had had my car towed home on a flat bed and now its back home in Tahoe collecting snow and dust in my driveway. My question now is how do I go about this? Is there anything I can do for subaru to help me out? I love these cars but everybody knows that the ring land issue is a factory weakness and I would hope there at least willing to partially help me out.

alexprz

Also found it funny that the dealership did not replace any of the oiling components (pump,pan,etc). Ive pinned this as a potential cause

Tidgy

Highly likley there was contamination in the oil lines so has caused the earlier failure.

Only real fix is to take it to a decent specialist and have a proper build.

alexprz

Thats the plan, i want to do an IAG stage one block 12mm oil pump killer b oil pick up and pan along with el headers and a stage 2 setup. I genuinely feel the the oem uel headers are another cause of premature engine failure.