STi IV TypeR - track car project
#121
track car
ho pal loving this project and has inspired me to track my type r car looks well and like the reports on all and whats happening as it goes good luck with it and great project
#122
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Susp - I'll be getting new susp for it in the next few months... I want something decent, and the car is track only so... Circuit focused susp is a must. Any thoughts... I cant afford (or dont want to afford) much more than £2000, within that price range!
Other susp parts... I have just bought the following whiteline parts..
Anti lift kit, Roll cantre kit, Drop links front & rear and Rear diff lock bolts.
The ALK with give me a bit more castor, but i'd like more adjustabilty still - Anyone got feedback on whiteline control arms? Whiteline Automotive - performance handling and suspension products. car spring coil shock damper swaybar sway bar anti-sway bush bushes australia australian whiteline automotive performance road holding turn-in camber caster toe in vehicle hot 4 v8
Other susp parts... I have just bought the following whiteline parts..
Anti lift kit, Roll cantre kit, Drop links front & rear and Rear diff lock bolts.
The ALK with give me a bit more castor, but i'd like more adjustabilty still - Anyone got feedback on whiteline control arms? Whiteline Automotive - performance handling and suspension products. car spring coil shock damper swaybar sway bar anti-sway bush bushes australia australian whiteline automotive performance road holding turn-in camber caster toe in vehicle hot 4 v8
#123
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AST 3ways - £3.5k + Coilover Suspension Kit AST Competition Suspension SUBARU IMPREZA
AST Sportline II - £1.8k + Coilover Suspension Kit AST Sportline II Coilover Suspension SUBARU IMPREZA
Exe TC track spec - about £5k http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/product_imag...0page%2009.pdf
Exe TC fast road - about £1.6k + http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/product_imag...AST%20ROAD.pdf
Any thoughts on GAZ (Gold / GGA)?
I'd consider top line TEINS... we have RS Circuit Masters on the Skyline and cant fault them - the are about £2.5k for Impreza.
Can any traders on here better the prices above?
AST Sportline II - £1.8k + Coilover Suspension Kit AST Sportline II Coilover Suspension SUBARU IMPREZA
Exe TC track spec - about £5k http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/product_imag...0page%2009.pdf
Exe TC fast road - about £1.6k + http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/product_imag...AST%20ROAD.pdf
Any thoughts on GAZ (Gold / GGA)?
I'd consider top line TEINS... we have RS Circuit Masters on the Skyline and cant fault them - the are about £2.5k for Impreza.
Can any traders on here better the prices above?
#124
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Not doing rollbars? im pretty sure you could get some coilovers cheaper then that, even the topline BC's are only £1175 - you can get pillowball mts too so that would give you adjustability front & rear. Apex do rear trailing/lateral arm kits and could probably sort the rest of the stuff for you too.
#125
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i have 'coilovers' ... and i'm not just wanting to replace them with run of the mill suspension. Its a competition car, so really needs some decent suspension and I have learned in the past that you do tend to get what you pay for in regards to suspension.
I have no faith at all in BC... never tried/tested them.
TEIN - despite all the negatives you hear (from road cars beign to stiff, to spares) i REALLY REALLY rate the TEINS that are on the skyline, BUT they are about £2.5k for the Impreza so worth seeig what else is in that price range.
I have cusco ARB's
I have no faith at all in BC... never tried/tested them.
TEIN - despite all the negatives you hear (from road cars beign to stiff, to spares) i REALLY REALLY rate the TEINS that are on the skyline, BUT they are about £2.5k for the Impreza so worth seeig what else is in that price range.
I have cusco ARB's
#126
there is a line at the bottom of your bumper pretty much level, cut a strip of 1mm alloy or 4mm foamex like i used,3" tall and bolt it to your bumper all the way round, then at the bottom of the alloy or foamex get a long strip of alloy 90 degree angle and put cuts half way through it so it will bend around the contour of the bumper and fix it to the alloy or foamex with bolts, i used allon key black buttons, then drill the bottom of the 90 degree angle alloy and fix the splitter to it, bair in mind this does create alot of downforce so it must be strong, i fitted upstands on the splitter of mine behind the fog lights that fixed onto the inner wing with quick release pip pins,
andy h
andy h
Do you have any pics of this and the fittings?
Doing something similar to mine although it stretches back to gearbox.
Not sure about fitting a splitter directly to the bumper as it only has 4 attachments at the moment, 2 sides, 2 on bumper bar.
Sorry for thread hijack Adam.
Dill
#127
Adam you should be able to get AST 3 ways for less than that, I paid through the nose getting a dealer to do it who actually just took it to the specialist then charged me subaru labour rates, but it cost less than what you've got down. That was 3 years ago though so prices may have increased. Speak to Curtis at Powerstation.
Zen and RCM use Exe TC's so I'd say they're the ones to go for, but the price is high.
Hope that helps.
Dill
Zen and RCM use Exe TC's so I'd say they're the ones to go for, but the price is high.
Hope that helps.
Dill
#130
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if you buy the exe-tc road track suspension the can re-damp them and put stronger springs on and there is supposedly not much diffrence over the track suspension , i think mine cost £2300 with x4 top mounts and redamped with harder springs , You could go even harder with your springs as you have a weld in cage, i had to soften mine slightly to be nice to the chasis.
#131
help
hi how did you remove heater matrix and fan and also how did you blank off pipes running to it through bulk head???? currently trying to strip type r but stuck on this, also i have relocated my diff switch to spare blanking plug swith on drivers side near steering wheel were my ic spray is , and have also relocated ecu to under top glove box on passenger side is this ok to do and should it not cause any probs (its securley fastend) sorry for all questions but first time at this
#132
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Scaumie:
Heater Matrix - Just loop the ends from the engine (in the engine bay) then remove all the pipe in the cabin and the ones through the bulkhead.
BUT BUT BUT if you are going to use the car on the road much I wouldnt remove the fan! I did and sometimes regret it.... I dont use the car much but have to move it from garage to garage and its baltic drivign everywhere with widows open to demist!!
*********************************************
split the old 'spare' engine... did a good job on the bearing on No2. And the main nearig has bearig material welded to it. The rod and cap are a bit out of shape too, they dont slide back together
Nothing else really wrong with the engine, crank will be scrap of course.
pistons in great condition, bores are ok... no gouges etc
Heater Matrix - Just loop the ends from the engine (in the engine bay) then remove all the pipe in the cabin and the ones through the bulkhead.
BUT BUT BUT if you are going to use the car on the road much I wouldnt remove the fan! I did and sometimes regret it.... I dont use the car much but have to move it from garage to garage and its baltic drivign everywhere with widows open to demist!!
*********************************************
split the old 'spare' engine... did a good job on the bearing on No2. And the main nearig has bearig material welded to it. The rod and cap are a bit out of shape too, they dont slide back together
Nothing else really wrong with the engine, crank will be scrap of course.
pistons in great condition, bores are ok... no gouges etc
#134
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righto... really need to pull my finger out with this car! Got a trackday on the 6th, and I'd love to use that as a test for the new brakes/susp/alignment.
Suspension:
Just waiting for the EXE TC's to arrive via Lateral.
pics of the Whiteline gubbins waiting to be fitted... didnt get any nuts/bolts with them so bought new for droplinks and will use OE for ALK (if they are ok) :|
Here are links to instructions, they are from Whitelines website
Roll Centre Kit :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z370_KCA313.pdf
Anti Lift Kit :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruct...9f_KCA319A.pdf
Front Drop Links :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z321_KLC30.pdf
Rear Drop Links :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/238_klc26.pdf
Diff / Subframe lock bolts :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z200_KSB750.pdf
Electrics:
Just bought a battery cage for a varley redtop 15, will buy the battery from Demon Tweeks on Monday. I have all the cables and conectors ready to relocate the battery to behind passenger seat. Also have to wire in the cut off and remote cut off switches (not ideal type, but will test to see if it kills engine before fitting i.e remove battery connection).
Then.. the rain light which i'll have to read up on as there arent any instructions. Must be simple enough. I'd think the resistor just goes in line with the +ve feed from a switch.
Brakes:
Sooo much stuff just piling up to fit to the car :|
Suspension:
Just waiting for the EXE TC's to arrive via Lateral.
pics of the Whiteline gubbins waiting to be fitted... didnt get any nuts/bolts with them so bought new for droplinks and will use OE for ALK (if they are ok) :|
Here are links to instructions, they are from Whitelines website
Roll Centre Kit :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z370_KCA313.pdf
Anti Lift Kit :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruct...9f_KCA319A.pdf
Front Drop Links :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z321_KLC30.pdf
Rear Drop Links :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/238_klc26.pdf
Diff / Subframe lock bolts :- http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z200_KSB750.pdf
Electrics:
Just bought a battery cage for a varley redtop 15, will buy the battery from Demon Tweeks on Monday. I have all the cables and conectors ready to relocate the battery to behind passenger seat. Also have to wire in the cut off and remote cut off switches (not ideal type, but will test to see if it kills engine before fitting i.e remove battery connection).
Then.. the rain light which i'll have to read up on as there arent any instructions. Must be simple enough. I'd think the resistor just goes in line with the +ve feed from a switch.
Brakes:
Sooo much stuff just piling up to fit to the car :|
#136
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To make that cutoff work properly you will need to add a ballast resistor to dump the alternator votlage when the battery is cut, otherwise the cutout will not work if the engine is running, and it will kill the alternator.
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I think the switch pictured has a seperate isolated low current cutoff for the alternator. I think you can do it with the switch you have just using a beefy resistor that pulls the field voltage down when you cut the power. Can't remember the exact way to do it off the top of my head.
#142
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battery and tow strap ordered (cant use OE tow point with JUN lip and big splitter )
same battery as Skyline - Varley Redtop 15
•Voltage=12
•Capacity=14Ah
•Weight=5.0kgs
•Dimensions=200x77x140mm
•Terminals=M6 male
•Cranking current (20°C for 5secs)=400A.
and an adjustable TRS tow strap
same battery as Skyline - Varley Redtop 15
•Voltage=12
•Capacity=14Ah
•Weight=5.0kgs
•Dimensions=200x77x140mm
•Terminals=M6 male
•Cranking current (20°C for 5secs)=400A.
and an adjustable TRS tow strap
#146
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got the car back now though... still misfiring though
BUT more power, more boost
379bhp & 358lbft
Still plenty of room left for the switch over to E85 once misfires are sorted. 65% duty at std pressure, 1.7bar peak dropping to 1.45 at 7000rpm or so
BUT more power, more boost
379bhp & 358lbft
Still plenty of room left for the switch over to E85 once misfires are sorted. 65% duty at std pressure, 1.7bar peak dropping to 1.45 at 7000rpm or so