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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 01:43 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by RA Dunk
hey Adam, nice tow strap, where from??
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #152  
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Battery Cage - wrong one sent RT 20 instead of RT15 that I needed!



Front dropliks fitted





Anti Lift Kit - pain in the **** gettign the subframe brace to line up afterwards and the big feckoff bar made to get the bolts loose!!!




Old 4 pot OE brakes with 2 piece discs



stripped


Whiteline gubbins on, will get the rod end's done soon enough


New brakes on.... spot the deliberate mistake and also had to grind the calipers to clear the wheels! (even with 5mm spacers on)



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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #153  
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Fookin hell... just hope a stone doesnt get stuck in there :O
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #154  
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Started work on the oil cooler today... and in the end just removed it all again. I dont have much more time before Sat and wasnt overly happy with the postion and pipe work. I think a different shape cooler might work better but a bit of time (and some heat sleeves for pipes that run my the headers) will prob sort it out. Cant see oil temps being that major of an issue this week!





not happy mounting this way round...



headers etc





Replaced some breather hoses for some better looking black ones.





and the tow strap


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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #155  
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Id say mounting the cooler that way would be alright if you took the input at the top of the cooler, but then again, the oil would just go straight down and out again without being cooled that much.

I was thikning about mounting mine like that, but then have now decided to mount it horizontal and chop into where the bar in the middle goes down... In fact you dont need that bar as your running bonnet pins anyway, just remove it and mount the cooler in the middle.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #156  
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thats an option. I need the bar for the FMIC but I can easy fabricate something to support it. It just needs a re-think

but.... have grinder, so I will WIN
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #157  
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I would mount the oil cooler on rubber mounts.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Adam Kindness
thats an option. I need the bar for the FMIC but I can easy fabricate something to support it. It just needs a re-think

but.... have grinder, so I will WIN
What part of your front mount goes onto that middle bar? I would have thought all front mounts are the same, as mine just bolts onto the bumper support bar :s

Aye ive got a grinder ready too... just watching a set of aero bonnet pins now
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #159  
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eek, droplinks look a bit slanty

they the right ones for alloy arms? look like they need spacing
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 11:45 PM
  #160  
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I wouldn't run the car on track with those hoses, the headers etc, it's an accident waiting to happen, and when it does, it will take the engine through loss of oil pressure and the car with the ensuing fire.

Seen it, cleaned the extinguisher power out of it, fixed it.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #161  
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Would have got braided ones, I have braided ones and mine kinda run like that...

Zen, what would you say would be the best way to take the pipes?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #162  
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Wrighty - nope, turns out they arent. I bought they second hand from a guy that had a STi TypeR same as mine... I need the KCL 39's

****************************************

Paul - yup... hence why i removed it all again for the trackday on sat. I'm going to give it a try running the pipes backwards and up the rear of the engine.

I thought the hoses would be ok though (not near headers / and away from sources of abrasion).

*********************************

Jamz - I'm trying to keep the budget down on this car..... hence paying £30 for pipes and fittings compared to £xxx for fancy hoses and anodised fittings.
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #163  
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Adam,

Ideally you want a good airgap between the hoses and headers, the headers wrapped, and the hoses secured so they can't move and sit against the headers. Also avoid filling the airgap with insulation (ie exhaust wrap) as that will conduct heat directly in a way that the airflowing through a gap cannot. The silicone/glass heatsleeve you can get for the hoses is also a good idea, as that will add another level of protection for the hose against abrasion and heat.

Also feed the oil into the bottom of the cooler, out at the top, how you have the core in the pic works pretty well, or you can put it on the other side and pass the hoses through a cutout besides the radiator.
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #164  
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cheers paul
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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I personally think they would be better in hard pipe, but i guess it has cost implications if you dont have access.
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #166  
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Would there be any problems in locating the oil cooler where the top mount used to sit? Then you can run the pipes up the back of the engine away from the headers. Not sure if this would reduce effiency though, Paul?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Adam Kindness
Jamz - I'm trying to keep the budget down on this car..... hence paying £30 for pipes and fittings compared to £xxx for fancy hoses and anodised fittings.
I paid no more then £25 for my braided hoses.. I went down to my local Pirtek and they did me a deal for cash in hand
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by 172sport
I personally think they would be better in hard pipe, but i guess it has cost implications if you dont have access.
You have to fit/remove hard pipe, and then at some point there will need to be a flex to accomodate the engine movement.
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 01:28 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Adam Kindness
Wrighty - nope, turns out they arent. I bought they second hand from a guy that had a STi TypeR same as mine... I need the KCL 39's
.
im sure you could just use a spacer on the ARB side at the top of them and they will be alright, will need to be a good 5mm thick atleast. just an idea
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by ZEN Performance
You have to fit/remove hard pipe, and then at some point there will need to be a flex to accomodate the engine movement.

Yup, using hard pipe they can all be clamped flush and out the way, factory finish with short flexi's to the cooler.

Lots more work as you will have to take a loads off to get the fit but once there fitted its all good.

I think the same with all these horrible lash up braided fuel line setups too.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #171  
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Trackday - Great day,

Bit of fun on track LOL very wet and very foggy

YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza vs. Format Sales & Bruce Taxis EVO's - 6th Feb 2010 - 5 chasing Evo's

more vids

YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza - 6th Feb 2010 - 1

YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza - 6th Feb 2010 - 2 raging at Fee to get her datsun out of the way!

YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza - 6th Feb 2010 - 3

YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza - 6th Feb 2010 - 4

some pics









BUT i think i have a foobarred bottom end again :| From around 4:40 on this vid YouTube - TrackScotland Impreza - 6th Feb 2010 - 1 the engine noise changes, and now sounds like this YouTube - subaru_noise.wmv

Anyway.... thats in the process of getting looked into.

Suspension

Some Q's about the EXE TC front top mounts. I have fitted them acording to what I would think would give most castor. Are the markings on the top mount supposed to mount at certain directions to aid future adjustment?



Its just on and nipped up just now, will need to remove the strut brace as the threads on the top mounts arent long enough for me to comfortably use the OE strutbrace. Thread is only about 3/4 through the nut.

anyway

RightRear

on no probs, just a big of the usual jiggery pokery to get things to line up.






Rear Left - EXE TC put the strut together with the wrong topmount :| Quick phone call confirmed it to be for a newerage impreza (wider bolt pattern). Should have the right one soon.




Front Right

On, and nipped up till I decide what to do with top mount, and remove strutbrace.







Will do the front left tomorrow.

Some brake dust from the weekend. Taking it easy then :|





Wired up the wee battery and junked the OE one that seems to have been leaking and rusting away the tray!








Thats all for today.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:41 PM
  #172  
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suspension looks great adam. like the battery install too mate v tidy.

what did you clean under arches with?
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:20 PM
  #173  
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MucOff - bike cleaner stuff for most of it, carb cleaner for the tough bits. Didnt paint/underseal the whole arch as that would just weigh too much LOL

... and I couldnt be arsed
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #174  
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New top mount arrived from EXE TC - super fast turn around makes up for their mistake Thanks to Simon at Wallace for swapping them over - dont have a 26mm socket and air gun lying around

You can see the old one has a wider bolt pattern (on right)



All struts on and tighted, lines clipped - just need to have a look at ride heights.






**** sticker



Old TEIN HR's (anyone want them)




DENTS.... Fixed one dent I made when rolling the rear arches. Gave the lip and upwards belt with a rubber mallet and out it popped, but i still have this one in the rear pas side piller. Any idea for sorting it out?

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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #175  
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Agood dent doctor should get that out.

I had similar when i run my mate over messing about............dont ask!!!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #176  
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I think it was from when the cage went in... All i know is I didnt do it LOL
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #177  
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Fitted the MSA/FIA rain light today... it looks a bit retarded but I didnt have the blue book at hand to check the regs. Patience and all that! All i remembered was centre of car, but looks like just any height on the centre would have been fine. Not a biggie to move (lower), and I'm needing the boot lid resprayed anyway :|






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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #178  
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****

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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #179  
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Ouch
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 05:44 PM
  #180  
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thats the end of that then
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