this is what happens when your tubo shaft snaps!
#91
I hope so too Si
I doubt it kev, this will be the 2nd rebuild i've done on my engine, and yours is still sat in the boot
I doubt it kev, this will be the 2nd rebuild i've done on my engine, and yours is still sat in the boot
#93
Cheers
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Russ,why don't you try running it in properly this time
I don't care what anyone says,you don't run a road car in the way that you have done so far and especially when it's on mineral oil
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Personally,I would run it in just like any other engine
#99
The way I run it in, is the way 99% of forged evo engines get run in, doing it this way, means the rings seal the bores, and therefore it doesn't smoke or drink oil like it is going out of fashion.
It worked well with the original build, so I will stick with that methord.
Mineral oil is ok, obviuosly it isn't as good as fully synthetic, but as it will only be in there for 200 miles at a time, it will stay within spec for the time it's there.
It sounds harsh I agree, but if you do the slow and steady break in, you end up with crap bore seal, and will soon suffer piston ring blow by, which means it will use alot of oil and smoke more than I do.
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There has always been lots of pro's and con's to which way is best to run an engine in.
The way I run it in, is the way 99% of forged evo engines get run in, doing it this way, means the rings seal the bores, and therefore it doesn't smoke or drink oil like it is going out of fashion.
It worked well with the original build, so I will stick with that methord.
Mineral oil is ok, obviuosly it isn't as good as fully synthetic, but as it will only be in there for 200 miles at a time, it will stay within spec for the time it's there.
It sounds harsh I agree, but if you do the slow and steady break in, you end up with crap bore seal, and will soon suffer piston ring blow by, which means it will use alot of oil and smoke more than I do.
The way I run it in, is the way 99% of forged evo engines get run in, doing it this way, means the rings seal the bores, and therefore it doesn't smoke or drink oil like it is going out of fashion.
It worked well with the original build, so I will stick with that methord.
Mineral oil is ok, obviuosly it isn't as good as fully synthetic, but as it will only be in there for 200 miles at a time, it will stay within spec for the time it's there.
It sounds harsh I agree, but if you do the slow and steady break in, you end up with crap bore seal, and will soon suffer piston ring blow by, which means it will use alot of oil and smoke more than I do.
Yep,lots of pro's and con's but surely running a freshly built engine at 2 bar boost and high revs just isn't a good idea
#102
#103
#106
All I said is that it isn't the way I was told to run in my last engine, and it worked fine with that, so I am using the same methord again.
Nobody on the MLR recommends the slow and steady run in on an evo engine, except the main dealers (now I wonder why that is ?).
#108
Ok a quick update.
All mains and bigend clearance's have been checked and all are spot on.
Everything has been cleaned out (block, head, oil cooler, sump, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil strainer, crank etc etc), just in case there was any debris inside the engine.
Today I have refitted the cams, and primed the oil pump ready for when it goes back in the car.
Removed the engine from the stand, so I could bolt the clutch and flywheel back on.
All thats left to do is refit the gearbox and transfer box and then I can put it back in the car. Once the engine is back in place, I can refit the inlet manifold and the turbo etc.
Hopefully it will be running in the next couple of days, just hoping the weather stays dry
All mains and bigend clearance's have been checked and all are spot on.
Everything has been cleaned out (block, head, oil cooler, sump, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil strainer, crank etc etc), just in case there was any debris inside the engine.
Today I have refitted the cams, and primed the oil pump ready for when it goes back in the car.
Removed the engine from the stand, so I could bolt the clutch and flywheel back on.
All thats left to do is refit the gearbox and transfer box and then I can put it back in the car. Once the engine is back in place, I can refit the inlet manifold and the turbo etc.
Hopefully it will be running in the next couple of days, just hoping the weather stays dry
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Ok a quick update.
All mains and bigend clearance's have been checked and all are spot on.
Everything has been cleaned out (block, head, oil cooler, sump, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil strainer, crank etc etc), just in case there was any debris inside the engine.
Today I have refitted the cams, and primed the oil pump ready for when it goes back in the car.
Removed the engine from the stand, so I could bolt the clutch and flywheel back on.
All thats left to do is refit the gearbox and transfer box and then I can put it back in the car. Once the engine is back in place, I can refit the inlet manifold and the turbo etc.
Hopefully it will be running in the next couple of days, just hoping the weather stays dry
All mains and bigend clearance's have been checked and all are spot on.
Everything has been cleaned out (block, head, oil cooler, sump, oil pump, oil filter housing, oil strainer, crank etc etc), just in case there was any debris inside the engine.
Today I have refitted the cams, and primed the oil pump ready for when it goes back in the car.
Removed the engine from the stand, so I could bolt the clutch and flywheel back on.
All thats left to do is refit the gearbox and transfer box and then I can put it back in the car. Once the engine is back in place, I can refit the inlet manifold and the turbo etc.
Hopefully it will be running in the next couple of days, just hoping the weather stays dry
#111
how old were the push fit fittings ? I have just fitted a oilcooler to my scoob and i used push fit fittings but you have got me worried now. I havent given it any abuse yet as i have been running it in but will be soon .
#112
Cheers Si
Yeh it's getting that way now, I might start taking orders soon
They were brand new mate, if I were you, just replace them for some propper lines with connectors, as it just isn't worth the risk of an engine for the sake of £100 or so
Yeh it's getting that way now, I might start taking orders soon
They were brand new mate, if I were you, just replace them for some propper lines with connectors, as it just isn't worth the risk of an engine for the sake of £100 or so
#113
Oh I forgot to say, FP have decided to replace my turbo as a gesture of goodwill.
They say it was my engine that caused the turbo to fail, but I guess there is no way to proove it either way.
Anyway they gave me a choice of another Green or to try the FP Red instead.
So I chose the red, and they are going to supply 1 of there uprated oil feed lines and inline filter for it too.
They say it was my engine that caused the turbo to fail, but I guess there is no way to proove it either way.
Anyway they gave me a choice of another Green or to try the FP Red instead.
So I chose the red, and they are going to supply 1 of there uprated oil feed lines and inline filter for it too.
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Oh I forgot to say, FP have decided to replace my turbo as a gesture of goodwill.
They say it was my engine that caused the turbo to fail, but I guess there is no way to proove it either way.
Anyway they gave me a choice of another Green or to try the FP Red instead.
So I chose the red, and they are going to supply 1 of there uprated oil feed lines and inline filter for it too.
They say it was my engine that caused the turbo to fail, but I guess there is no way to proove it either way.
Anyway they gave me a choice of another Green or to try the FP Red instead.
So I chose the red, and they are going to supply 1 of there uprated oil feed lines and inline filter for it too.
#117
I found a thread on the usa evo site, where the owner of FP had posted info about me and my turbo that wasn't 100% true.
I simply replied to him on the forum, and corrected a few things in that post.
This lead to 24hr's of bitching, where all the do-gooders in the usa sided with FP. However between 1am and 10pm in that day alone that thread had over 1800 views, which I guess they were not too keen on, as it bought more attension to the fact there could be a reliability issue with there turbo's.
So I then received an email from FP stating that they think my engine had a fault which caused the turbo to fail (funny that another 3 in the uk that I know of have now done the same thing) but as I had so much damage caused and because I felt it was all down to FP's turbo, they would replace it as a gesture of goodwill.
The only good thing to come of it all, is that I now know how to fit a cambelt, and build an engine from a box of nuts and bolts
#119