this is what happens when your turbo shaft snaps!
 

My mates pride and joy evo 6 rs one of the cleanest ones ie ever seen fresh engine rebuild running 430 bhp+ then this happens .
feel for him only done 3000 miles .
Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum - View Single Post - My Car is Broken AGAIN

Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum - View Single Post - My Car is Broken AGAIN

awaiting the outcome to see how much it will cost to put right .

How did the debris get to the big ends? I assume wreckage got into the sump via the oil return from the turbo but I would have thought the oil filter would have caught it before reaching the bearings?
A few grands worth, I fear?

JohnD

fooked is all i can say to that!!

big ends failed on their own imho.. the particles in the oil are from the big ends

running too lean probably.. imho of course

mapping was spot on jgm no det on the pistons , he can map it himself and monitor things via his laptop so shouldnt have been running lean and the turbo broke thats how the bits got into the engine . when the turbo snapped it at how ever many million rpm it went thru the intercooler and in the engine you should have seen the size of the bits of blade the cooler stoped !!! its just a bummer its a exspencive turbo that has cost him an engine .

Is there any recourse on the turbo maker/builder? Turbo shafts don't normally just snap?

well its abit complicated but it was brought from the usa not the uk and the warrenty doesnt stand so he doesnt know whats going to happen yet .I'm pretty sure if they do sort the turbo they cant predict failure so protect them selfs that way .

wouldn't expect debri from turbo to do that damage to big ends

It can do and Does, same as when cambelts go and pistons hit valves it put's exesive force on the big end's and they are doomed from then on, atleast he had the inteligence to check them

Have seen a Few people running Mesh filters After the turbo to stop things like this happening

when both my old turbos blew up ;)

the intercooler caught everything!

Maybe the debris in the combution chamber caused massive det which overloaded the bearings? There doesn't seem to be det damage on the crowns, though?
Wasn't one of those Chinese replica turbos, was it? :eek:
When a turbo goes, it's more often the turbine blades, not the shaft snapping!

JohnD

you say it was rebuilt 3000 miles ago, seems to have pick up a lot of carbon deposits in that time, running very very rich

-oh no, thats a real shame. if bits of turbo made it through the IC and into combustion chambers this would surely increase the compression ratio which could bring on det?

i love all japanese performance cars, i hope the guy is on the road again soon!
Ash

Hey guys, it's my car thats in the link above.

Not good at all.

The turbo was an FP green.

The engine was a fully forged engine that was built for me, around 4500 miles ago (fitted end of march this year).

The fueling was running 11.6afr WOT dropping to anything between 11.4 and 11.2 right at the top (so definately not lean).

I had a base map done for the car, which I then tweaked and tweaked and tweaked over a couple of months to get 99% perfect.

I have a permanantly connected LC-1 wideband kit fitted to the car, that has been checked against a 2nd LC-1, a motec wideband and the wideband used on a DD rolling road, which confirms my sensor is well calibrated.

My car also runs a stock ecu (from an evo 7, hence I can map it myself), which retains the good factory knock control.

I also have a patched rom on my ecu, to enable map switching, and flashing cel on knock (amongst other things).

The car was on the rollers with det cans hooked up a couple of weeks before this happened.

On the rollers there was no det heard in the det cans (even though my cel and datalogs where showing some knock activity), however my clutch was slipping so we put it down to that, or the knock sensor was over active.

I was on my way to get the knock sensor replaced when the turbo let go.

I thought it had just blown a boost hose off again (it's blown every boost hose and vac hose off atleast twice since I fitted the FP green turbo), so when it just lost boost as it was spooling up in 3rd, I just figured that a hose had come off again, so just crusied at around 1500 - 1800 rpm for a couple of miles in 5th until I could find somewhere to pull over and pop the hose back on.


Anyway now i've found this much damage, I have to remove the block, strip the crank out and get that all checked over.

Then decide what I am going to do next, the way I feel at the moment, I might just strip the car as I don't have the money to put into it again.

Here are some pics of the turbo before (3 months ago when new) and now.

Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum - View Single Post - My Car is Broken AGAIN

Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum - View Single Post - My Car is Broken AGAIN

hey mate hope you dont mind me posting thought might get you some sympathy lol told you to stick with the propper car .

Nah don't mind mate, not like I have been trying to hide anything .

Sympathy won't help fix it though sadly :lol1:

As for the propper car, I did that :eek: :p , the problem was like a tw@ I went and fitted a yank turbo to it :cuckoo:

If anyone is interested, I have now fully stripped the bottom end and put some pics up of what was found.

Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum - View Single Post - My Car is Broken AGAIN

Sorry to see that Russ :cry:

Cheers Si

not good.. pump failure or oil starvation somehow.. :(

Well the turbo is being collected later in the week, and should be on it's way back to the usa soon.

As for the cause of the engine failiure it seems to still be unknown, and only "best guess's".

All I know is, that the cost for the parts to rebuild it alone are between £1000 and £1300.

Then there are machine costs ontop (head, block, crank).

And after all that I still need a turbo and a clutch, so all in all, I think I need around 3k to get the car back to where it was :(

Oh and that assumes I can even rebuild it myself and remember which bolts went where :lol1:

are you looking at replacing pistons?

difficult from pics but marks on bores just look like marks.. rather than scores that will effect compression etc..

what damage is there to the head?

Simon

I feel for you man, I had complete engine failure on mine a few months back and I know how gutted I was. I just felt like I wanted to push the car off a cliff. It cost me a small fortune but now my car is back on the road and much better than it ever was. I hope you can smile again soon ;)

There is no real damage to the pistons, I think they just need a clean up and the rough edges on the pitting smoothing off a touch.

I will only replace them if I end up going for a rebore.

The bores still look "ok" to me, and as you said there is no real deep scoring that would affect the compression, but I will still get it checked to be sure and I think a hone would be the minimum recommended to make sure there won't be any issues further down the line.

As for the head, there again is some pitting from the shrapnal that went into the engine, but there appears to be a damaged valve seat on 1 of the inlet valves. In the photo I took (see one of the first 2 links) there looks to be a large chunk of it missing, but when I checked it the following morning, it looked like a small "nick" taken out of the edge of it, so there might not be any issue's with it.

Yeh i've gone past the wanting to push it off a cliff / set fire to it / smash it up with a sledgehammer feelings now.

I've reached the point where I am on the lookout for a cheap runabout, whilst I decide if I am going to pour more money I haven't got into it, or just break it for parts.

I had a Renault that snapped a turbo shaft. Running flat-out, it went flat then I saw the smoke and shut it off but it had already emptied the sump into the intercooler pipework and exhaust that damaged the big end bearings.

Don't know the flow rate of the oil pump but was told by the Renault workshop manager that it could empty the sump very quickly especially if you pulling 7000rpm when it goes.

Paul.

Yeh thats another theory, although I would say, the exhaust side looked to be clear of oil, and there was only around 1 litre or so in the pipework, and maybe another half a litre tops in the bores.

So it shouldn't have run "that low" on oil in the short distance I did at low rpm after it had gone wrong.

my initial thought was to get to 1000 to 1300 you were reboring and changing pistons but it is fairly easy to get to that price with head gasket, oil pump, oil cooler etc etc..

I had forgot about the valve damage :(

Well this is the list of parts I "think" I will need.

Mitsi Engine Gasket Set
Oil Pump
Oil Filter Housing
Oil Cooler
Sump
Piston Rings (poss pistons depending on if a rebore is needed)
Main Bearings
Thrust Washers
Big End Bearings
Balance Shaft Removal Kit
Oil Filter
Oil
Anti-freeze
Cambelt
Gasket Sealant

Then the bits for the head (if needed), turbo and clutch