Pulling the big guns out here m8, fair play too ya. Watching with interest.

You doing this on your own or are the lads over giving you a hand ?

 

Have you given any thought to the chassis/suspension setup, and of course brakes, you say race machine, from this can we assume the shell will be getting a full make over as well, may have missed it when a glanced through the thread, good luck to you, sure there many out there watching and wishing if only..

John

 

done all this awhile ago

hi john its already got

cusco zero 1 coilovers with pillowball mounts
Front and rear alloy strut brace's
cusco h brace in front
whiteline drop links front and alloy rear with nylon bushes
Whiteline sway bar bushes front and rear
Whiteline anti-lift kit

and for stopping it has..

alcon prodrive front calipers with 330 prodrive vented disks with prodrive pads
Godspeed rear 190 grooved vented disc with Subaru 2 pot caliper's
Goodridge braided brake hoses front and rear
Kevlar rear brake pad's
Dot 5.1 brake fluid

 

Just goes to show long its been since we last meet up, must be an age thing on my part, keep at it, you will get there...

John

 

all on my own fella but i supose people will give me a hand here and there plus this is why i started this thread to have help and advice off all the scooby owners from everywhere ...

 

If you need a hand with anything m8 just give us a shout................

















i'll send the misses up. naaaaaaa you got my number.

 

right guys bit of an up date on where i am at the mow came home from work today and thought i would give garage a little clean but after doing that i went up the house and my other half was sleeping on the sofa so i popped back down the garage for an hour
wright first i done some lables for wires and where they all go with some masking tape and pen and then cut off all the clips holding the wires to the manifold then removed the 550 injectors ready to sell

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then i got set on the carb and the funny thing to the side of it which is anyone let me know what it is

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shot of the manifold and underneath it

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then it was on to the water way under the manifold

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only a few things left to remove eg timing belt and a few sensors then off with its heads

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Make sure you got a 14mm allen key

 

right bit of an up date on were i am
had a few hours down the second home and managed too get the heads off but had abit of a mission getting the cam pulleys off but got there in the end

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then it was to take the cams off to get at the head bolts to remove the heads

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then a light tap with a rubber mallet had they came off easy

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here are pics with heads off and the bores look to be fine and can even see the horning on the cylinders

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then i pulled the crank pulley gear off which i put the bolt back in the crank that holds the pulley on then used a 3 leg puller

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then i turned the engine over and removed the mocal thermo plate and oil cooler/filter and sump and when the sump came off it had a small rubber o ring and lots of metal swarf which was copper colour so showing the signs of the bearing failing
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then a first look at the crank assembley
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then it was to take the engine off the stand and get it on the bench which i thought would be light but was still quite heavy
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now when i get an hour soon i will get pistons ect.. and get this open to see the damage

 

Flying along with it m8, didnt know you were so clude up on this stuff

 

 

Come on Lee haven't you finished this yet!!! get a shift on

It all looks rather complicated to me

 

Excellent thread mate, wish you all the best with it, you can do my engine then, lol

 

went down the garage tonight to have a go at getting the pistons out but could not get the gudgion pin out i removed the clip but the gudgion pin has a tapper and it goes small in the middle
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any help or info will be great guys thanks

 

Try a door frame rawl-plug anchor of a suitable diameter to fit in the gudeon pin hole, insert the plastic plug into the hole, tighten the bolt until it grips the plug and then try pulling it out

 

get a 5 mill peace of rod the width of the block and not the pin out from the other side thats how i got mine out

 

thanks for the info guys will have a look abit later thanks again

 

If you take the cover off the other side of the block (that covers the other pistons gundgion pin) you will be able to knock it out. when you got the pistons out you will be able to see that those holes go through the liners and stright in to the next liners. i put the side i wanted to knock out in the right position, got a tourch and a tent peg that i strightened out and knocked from the oppersit side. This seemed to be a lot easier than pulling them out the correct side. If you get stuck you can get get 2 pistons out from one half of the block, split the block, then undo the bolds on the connecting rods to get the other ones out on the bench.

 

YouTube - pulling pistons out of Subaru block
very handy guide that guy does,couldnt believe how easy it was after watching it

 

hi m8, nice to see project going well. on the gudgeon pin extraction i used a slide hammer with a lip on the tip of tool, did have a difficult pin but came out with a little bit of persuasion. they sometimes get a little bit of engine coke on them. keep up the good work.

 

whats the latest??

 

right nothing has happend at the moment as my money is tight and have been getting the house ready and done for the arrival of my baby girl but when i have time i will be back on to it
i have bought a used crank to go back in the block i am stripping, and will build this back with new bearings or race bearings and then sell it on as long as the crank i bought is within spec as the block and pistons ect are fine,
tried to sell my andy f /20g but it seems the credit crunch has a big part to play in things not selling so will keep the turbo and use on the 2.5 as it is almost new
will get some pics up as soon as i get back to it

 

nice thread mate...keep up the gd work..

am just curious, am thinking of building a 2.5L to replace my 2L, how many parts can u reuse from the 2L lump or have u had to replace all the bits??? (eg inlet manifold, throttle body, fuel rails, idle control valve)

cheers

ian

 

thanks fella
if you buy a 2.5 bottom end you can just bolt the 2.0 ltr heads manifold ect and all your bits on to the 2.5 but you would have to have it mapped tho

i could have bought a 2.5 block and bolted everything on but as i love working on cars i thought i would do this project and build from the block up and it will give my self more satisfaction and sence of achievment when it is built

 

Is it all coming together Lee, so far so good,

 

right guys bit of an up date on where im at the mow ,managed to get an hour down the garage on monday and with my new impact driver and my new 14ml bit i got the gudgion pins out and removed the pistons, i used a along thin screw driver and tapped them out from either end.

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then rotated the crank and pushed the pistons out

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then it was on to splitting the block which had bolts where i least expected them to be but got there in the end and once it was split it was no3 conrod bearing that had gone and all the other ones looked ok, you will see in the pics that the bearing is very worn and has a lip each side of it with no copper colour left

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noticed that the conrod took a bit of a bashing to

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so now my stripping down is done and now to start getting things sorted
my 2.5 block has been taken to be cleaned by my mate who is in to building rally cars and in the motor trade so hopfully will have a good clean engine when it comes back only thing is i never took pics to show before and after

but i can take pics of the 2.0ltr as i will be having that cleaned an will be building that back up with acl bearings as i have a used crank but in very good condition and as long as it is in spec ,i will re fit pistons and get sti conrods and put my cylinder heads back on as i have new ones to go on my 2.5 and sell block and heads or even just the block ect.....to make some money to fund parts i need .

i have been told that it would be best to get drop in to hone pistons as the 2.5 block has done around 20 to 30 thousand but bores look great with very little wear so would this be the best option ? and how much does it cost ??????

 

A hone is needed to remove the glaze off the liners to allow the new piston rings to bed in, this can be done with a hand held drill with a honing block attached. Frost Auto Restoration Techniques - Search Results for hone
But make sure you measure each new piston diameter and match up according to bore size, the ring gap should be not be any greater than 0.003" thou as they tend to slap even once warm otherwise. I'm running Wiseco pistons bored to match at 0.002" and are fairly quite cold and fine once the engine is warm.

With the old engine your going have to set your bearing clearances on both rods and crank. Plastigauge pack 0.025mm - 0.175mm should cover both.

The bearing clearance for 2.0l block are :-
.0012 - 0.0045" is right for the Thrust/End Float on the Center Thrust Cranks.
Main bearing oil clearance on all 5 journals 0.0004 - 0.0012".
Big end oil clearance 0.0010 - 0.0022" (0.0008 - 0.0018" on Phase 2 engines).

 

Good work Lee, John must have been reading my mind partly as I was about to post the Frost link.... but I was going to post it for paint Firstly you need self etch primer and then a can of THIS assuming for going for a red top.

 

Only just seen this thread, good work so far Lee, be nice to see it all back together

 

thanks for the link rigster and si will be looking in to that soon and welcome aboard dean soon as i do some more work will let you know where i am cheers guys