joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, 300V has always been an 'expensiver' lol

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Hi oilman; this is more of a techy one for you to see if you could explain how/why my engine is so fussy on oil quality: I have a MKV 2006 Golf R32 with roughly 30,000miles and appears to be mechanically in good shape (spotless under the oil filler, clean oil etc). Now nothing wrong at present, but in the past it has had problems:

Basically when VW serviced it they put in 10w-40 (as invoiced) which I assume is VW501.01 semi-synthetic, this car is on 12month intervals and the owner's manual says this spec of oil is acceptable (the OATS table differs by the way). Anyway, after 3months the car developed warm-up idle problems; If the engine was switched off then re-started before full operating temperture, the engine wouldn't idle and hunt around, sometimes stalling.

The same symptoms happen after a hard blast, or high speed motorway run, where after switching off and re-starting after say, 10mins, the engine would struggle to idle and again sometimes stall.

Baffled by this, various sensors/actuators weres checked, new MAf etc. Problem remained. Then the oil was changed. Problem cured! Unfortunately it was again another 10w-40 VW501.01 oil, but done at a different dealership (I fell out with the first one).

Three months later it started playing up again. At the time I questioned the dealer and they confirmed it was the correct grade/type of oil for the car in respect to its 12month change intevals and were adament that the longlife oil was not required. I've heard rumours on forums say there is a VW TSB regradling oil types for 12month change intervals, but thus far dealers deny this and none of the forums have come up with hard evidence as proof of this (scans, print outouts screen grabs etc).

Not happy with this and curious, I drained it out myself and put in reccomended longlife spec oil instead (vw507.00). In this case Castrol Edge 5w-30 (along with a new filter, of course). The car has not given me any trouble since!

Now the questions: What is so different with these oils that is causing this problem?

I assume its to do with the variable valve timing. But how would the oil affect this...and why does the lower quality oil break down after 3 month of general day to day commuting?

I only assume the lesser oil is breaking down, as otherwise the problem would exist straight after the oil change. But what is exactly going on here - even though both oils are different viscosities, the engine copes ok when the oil is new- so what is happening to the viscosity of the lesser oil? Bearing in mind the problem exists both during warm-up (i.e thick oil) and after a hard blast (thin oil), but is ok at cold start and when pottering around with the engine up to full temp.

I would appreciate some technical incite into this to better understand what is going on. If anything it makes for a good advert on why to use synthetic oil

Cheers (if you feel this needs to answered in a different thread, just give the nod and I can move the post into a fresh thread )

ps. We also encountered an Audi TT 3.2 (same engine) with the same problem which was cured in the same manner.

alex_00s

iTrader: (18)

Ver6 STI
Simtek (with anti lag going all the time)
TD05 18G
550cc
FMIC
blar blar blar
~360bhp

I'm using Fully syn Fuchs 15W 50 and after a bit of abuse the oil pressure is dipping below 20 on my Defi...

Rather than use an even thicker oil is it time for me to fit an oil cooler?

farmermo

2003 wrx, mainly commuting with odd blast.
standard apart from backbox.
maybe a remap at a later date.
advice appreciated.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

I'd say it's time for an oil cooler, ideally, you don't want to use anything thicker.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

I would use a5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Outof those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS,Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess,Millers XFS, Shell Helix, Fuchs Supersyn and Mobil Super 3000 aregood, cheaper alternatives.

Cheers

Tim

alex_00s

iTrader: (18)

Yeah I think its time, thanks Tim

Geordie_Aaron

iTrader: (3)

Forgot to ask how much gearbox/diff oil i'll need to both together- at the checkout now

oilman

iTrader: (9)

3.5L for the gearbox, 0.8L for the diff.

Cheers

Tim

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Hi oilman ..

I have a 98/99 v5 type r the engine has been out for approx 1 month and will hopefully be going back in within the next cupple of weeks.
The car is standard appart frox the exhaust system
I need oil for engine + gearbox & dif

What options do I have and a approx price Please

Many thanks

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

Just checking, was it out of the car for a rebuild?

Cheers

Tim

crazyspeedfreakz

iTrader: (92)

Hi tim

I have just bought the engine from Scoobyspares it has had head gasket work in past but not recently .. But not a compleat rebuild.

Cheers

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

Thanks for that. Go for a 10w-40

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx

The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS. As a cheaper alternative the Fuchs XTR, Motul 6100 and Millers XSS are good choices.

You need a 75w-90 for the gearbox.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90.aspx

If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Redline 75w-90NS and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives.

Cheers

Tim

mr sti123

Hi Mr Oilman just a quick question i have a wrx sti v4 jdm how much oil does the sump hold any idea? because when you fill it dip stick doesnt seem to give good reading so im not sure if im overfilling or not

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

About 4.5L.

Cheers

Tim

mr sti123

Thanks a lot mate

LewisL

iTrader: (3)

Hello oilman,

You don't half get round the forums don't you lol no matter what car i've had from a cossie to a 350z or a 200sx to a scob there you are lol

What's grade for a 70k 2002 WRX running around 300hp daily driver.

What deals you got on if any?

Thanks

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

A 5w-40 is ideal.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs Supersyn, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

As you know us from other forums, you should know there's always a deal on . Here are the current ones.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-Current-Offer.aspx

Cheers

Tim

LewisL

iTrader: (3)

Cheers Tim

I knew there would be a deal somewhere

How much will I need?

oilman

iTrader: (9)

5L will do it

TH3_5T1G

iTrader: (15)

Engine oil for a 2.35 with (hopefully) 600ish. Running in almost finished so wandering what would be your recommendation to use once all run in

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

I'd go for a 10w-50 when it's ready.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

Both are really good oils, absolute top of the range ones, so go with any brand preference you have.

If you get piston slap from cold with the 10w-50, try a 15w-50, likes the Fuchs Pro R, Motul 300V, Redline or Gulf Competition. If the tolerances are small, the 10w-50 should be the best option though.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-660-15w-50-engine-oil.aspx

Cheers

Tim

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Hello Oilman

What would be the best oil for my car?
Its a 98 V4
Has had a full rebuild with 2.5l block.
just covered 1600 miles, i have been using mineral oils as per the engine builder but now it time to change to what i want to use.

i have a mocal 10 row oile cooler.

cheers

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi

Any modifications and what will it be getting used for?

Cheers

Tim

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Full decat, cone filter, no track use road use maybe few 1/4 mile sprints not big deal

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Go for a good 5w-40

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Shell Helix, Fuchs Supersyn and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

Cheers

Tim

shepcobain

Hi Oilman,

I'm looking for an oil for my V4 1997 Classic STI.

Its had a standard rebuild about 3k ago, its since had a service and i just want to get some top up stuff for keeping my eye on the level etc.

Its standard apart from a de-cat, uprated fuel pump and cone filter. Its for road use only and i put my foot down every so often but don't kick its head in.

Cheers,

Shep.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Hi Shep

Same as above, go for a good 5w-40.

Cheers

Tim

mogs132

hi oil man,
looking for some engine oil for an 07 sti, about to have decat and pipe and intake filter used only on the road.
cheers morgan

scooby red

iTrader: (2)

Hi, engine oil for an 02 sti with mods gonna be 320ish bhp, fast road but no track days as yet.. Currently using millers cfs 10/60 would i be better with 10/50? cheers, dave