silent running

Latest update - I've been sorting out some loose ends over the last few days following the problem with my CDB's spun liner. First off I went ahead and 'modified' my oil pump. Everything was easily within spec, so all that had to be done was to break out the wet'n'dry paper and smooth off the edges on the relief valve which I could feel was sticking at a certain point down the tube if you side loaded it with the spring. After 10 minutes of trial and error the problem was sorted, and the valve slides perfectly smoothly up and down. Here are all the bits I needed to rebuild my oil pump:



The big news is that, after briefly toying with the idea of going back to using my original open deck WRX block for the build, I have managed to acquire another closed deck block for a reasonable price, although it's missing one oil spray jet and an access hole plug. Still it looks very tidy. So here is the Silent Running Engine Storage Facility:



CDB #2 is revealed:



I now have block dismantling down to a fine art. From putting the block in front of me on the workbench, to having the block split with crank, pistons, rods and pins all separate took about 3/4 hour. It's amazing how good you can get at this stuff just by a bit of practice. Whether I'll be as good at putting a block together again though...


CDB #2 had suffered a big end rattle (surprise!) and big end shells on #1 and #2 were scrap. The crank pins themselves were worn but according to my measurements (unlike my first crank) still grindable to take 0.25mm oversize bearings so I'll most likely sell that on to raise some money for pistons/rods.




So now that CDB 2 checks out fine, I will definitely use it as the basis for my build. A good cleanup is in order, so I started taking the gallery plugs out, three on one half of the block and two on the other. They all take an 8mm allen key:

silent running

All the various O-rings, bits of sealant, gallery plugs taken off in readiness for a jet wash:



Back from the jet wash, both decks nice and clean:



The whole block doesn't look too bad now, most of the grime is off:



Now I've got to sit back and wait to recoup some money from all the bits and bobs I'm selling or thinking about selling (WRX v4 and STi2 Type RA blocks, spare oil pump, half a dozen standard within-spec pistons and rods, a crankshaft etc.) before buying my pistons, and maybe rods from the States. I don't think this will end up self-financing, but it's not working out as expensive as I thought it might. If you're thinking about doing a rebuild yourself, go for it - I definitely don't regret having started on this, I'm really enjoying it.

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

Are you going to paint the block or leave as is?

Granby

iTrader: (5)

Great thread but are you trying to buy up all the remaining stock of CDB available

silent running

LOL yes every time one doesn't suit me, I just dip into my collection and pull out another...actually it sounds like I'm really well off but really I'm just lucky that I have a local motorsport supplier/garage very nearby and I couldn't refuse this second CDB at the price he wanted, seeing as I'd had a problem with his first one. Their spare time project at the moment is similar to mine - a later STi semi-closed deck 2.0 with forged rods and Mahle pistons plus STi4 heads.

I have thought about painting the block, but don't know what colour to go for and whether it would stay on and look any good.

Atari Boy

Paint the block, paint the block, paint the block.
It is very therapeutic and makes spotting leaks easier in the future.
They say white is the new black ........I dare you.

Welloilbeefhooked

iTrader: (3)

Paint it pink!!

silent running

LOL I thought that was serious until I saw whose suggestion it was...
Although you are right, white could be the way forward. What about battleship grey?

silent running

Not really a big fan of pink. How about you do it first, then if it looks OK, I'll do the same!

Black or grey, sound good at the moment. If I could get sparkly black that would be good.

Atari Boy

A light 'BT' grey would work too

silent running

Following a week of thinking out some ideas about what to do and starting a few threads over in general technical, trying to claw back some money by reselling some of the various extra parts I now have lying around unused, and rearranging stuff in the garage (i.e. waiting for pay day!) I've decided:

• Black for the heads and silver for the block (reasoning that the heads need to dump as much heat as they can)
• Using the original two-bolt cambelt tensioner off the CDB and the two-leg oil strainer pipe from the later sump I had
• 'STi 3' heads arrived and were genuine but damaged. They're on the way back for a refund!
• Definitely going for forged rods and pistons. After a lot of emailing and checking specs, Wiseco seem to be the only pistons with a specific designs for the early EJ20, and detailed info. They also took the time to reply to my stupid newbie questions and told me that their piston is basically a copy of the OE piston in a different material and chewed over deck height, clearance, compression, recommended head gaskets (Cometic 1.3mm btw) etc, so it seems to me that they are the ones to go for.

I've been scrounging up various parts this week, already mentioned the supposedly STi 3 heads off ebay which turned out to be no good, and Merlin (Mick) very kindly helped out a lot with how to ID them as genuine STi3. I did look at various offers of STi 3 or 4 heads from Snetters and others, but as welcome as they were there were difficulties IDing them just from a written description or a couple of photos and I wasn't happy spending a large part of my budget (£300-£400) on something which could turn out to be no better than what I had already. Most of the time, the sellers were able to take cylinder heads off but somehow not able/didn't have the time to look at the tappets and didn't want to move much on price. Not at all implying that they were crooks, just that I'm not a person to take chances with the limited money I do have unless it's so cheap it's worth a gamble...

Mick has also come to the rescue with a spare oil squirter jet for my CDB, as one had been robbed out of it already when I got it! Rabskyline has done me a great deal on various bits of head hardware that I needed - rocker covers, cambelt covers, cam pulleys, various bolts and stuff so cheers to him too. I'm now hoping to get some pistons, rods and head gasket from CDF Racing who has done me a very good price. Once the build's done I'll also have a set of lightweight front pulleys off CDF as well to finish things off.

silent running

Just got my bottom end seals/plugs/gaskets from Subaru, £85 worth. There were a few other bits in there: a pair of gearbox studs, bellhousing rubber plug etc. Pistons will be ordered tomorrow then once I have them the block and pistons will be sent off to API for a bore and check.

Welloilbeefhooked

iTrader: (3)

Is the bellhousing plug the rubber bit that fits on the engine near the large crank case breather? If so I need one and will kindly donate some dosh for it mate.

Wayne.

silent running

Yep that's the one - Subaru have it as 'Plug-Timing Hole' # 11413AA033. Well I've actually got one already, it's still useable, but just it had gone a bit hard so I thought it'd be a good time to replace it while I was doing everything else. All donations to the rebuild fund are gratefully accepted, how's £4 delivered sound for my old one? PM me mate!

Welloilbeefhooked

iTrader: (3)

will pm later as im on my phone at the moment but it sounds ok to me!

scoobynutt

any updates on this

silent running

Yes it's gone quiet for a while because I'm waiting for the next stage and can't do much until the parts come - Wiseco pistons coming in from CDF Racing sometime this week; once they arrive then the new pistons, the crank I salvaged from one of the CDBs and the block itself will be off to API for a check and 0.5mm overbore. I was going to get it done locally, but seeing as API aren't that much more money and I have now found a cheap courier that can transport parts up to 32kg for £8, I might as well have API do it - they did a good job on my gearbox last year.

I've bought another set of parts off 'Rabskyline' which will include a pair of standard complete v4 heads and I've had an offer of a v3-4 STi valvetrain, so I can upgrade the heads to STi spec if I want to and can afford it...

For those who've never arranged an engine overbore before (which includes me!) they need at least one of the actual pistons that are going into the block to be able to bore and hone it correctly.

Over the next month or so, the block and crank should come back ready for the build, I'll order the Eagle forged steel rods which Chris at CDF has in stock, then it will finally be time to start the build.

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

This is a good read, I rebuilt my old Scooby engine a couple of years ago, but cheated slightly by buying an American 2.5 STI bottom end. Am now planning an engine build on my new Scoob, which will be a complete strip down and staying with a 2litre block.

It's good to see how other people tackle the same job

silent running

Glad it's a worthwhile read. In some ways I still wish I had had the money to just splash out and get a 2.5 - they're dirt cheap once you know how much the parts actually cost to put a bottom end together properly. But I'm going with the 2.0 and let's hope it's as easy to put together as it was to take apart!

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

It may be a cheaper option, but rebuilding a complete engine will be more rewarding, especially once it's back in the car and it starts up for the first time!!
Just take your time and don't rush.

Best of luck with it

silent running

June update...
Pistons and rods expected in the next week or so, then block will be off for overboring. I am going to go ahead and use the WRX/UK Turbo version 4 heads that I have got hold of as they seem OK. As long as they check out when I disassemble them, I'll put them back together and use them, maybe try some mild porting/polishing. I have been toying with the idea of converting them to STi4 with a complete STi4 valvetrain (cams/valves/springs/tappets etc) but I reckon the WRX4 heads will do a good enough job as they are once rebuilt. My measurements show that the STi4 heads only have another 0.1mm extra lift on the inlet and 0.2mm on the exhaust. Duration may be different, but at the moment with my 350bhp power target, my budget doesn't need the extra expense of STi valvetrain if I got a perfectly good WRX setup sitting here, especially as they should still rev well having shimmed tappets rather than the earlier hydraulic ones.

So without further ado, here's my little head rebuilding side project while I wait for the overbore. Could be a whole project thread in itself I suppose...

WRX v4 cams, tappets and 'overbucket' shims. There's a little lip all round the top edge of each tappet which keeps the shims in place. Unfortunately they were a bit muddled up when I got them but I would have had to check all the clearances anyway when I rebuild the head.



The WRX v4 heads I'll be using, a good cheap option with shimmed tappets that fit with the year of my car better than the crappy WRX v1 heads with hydraulic tappets that had been fitted to my car before.



Monster valve spring compressor. This is the one from Halfords for £35 for 'large and diesel engines'. I tried the smaller one for £17 first but it didn't have a deep enough reach to compress the spring. I guess you get what you pay for; this bad boy made removing the valves and springs a doddle. You clamp the valve head side in the combustion chamber with one half and the other half pushes down on the valve spring retainer.



Compressing the valve spring retainer.



With the valve spring compressed I used a magnetic pick up tool to pick the split collets out. Once they are out and you release the compressor, the spring and retainer just pull out by hand.

silent running

Inlet valves removed. The ports are pretty rough inside with obvious casting marks and a noticeable lip where the valve seats begin. I might have a crack at porting.



An almost bare WRX v4 head - still has valve guides, spring seats and stem seals in place, but valves and springs are out.



A closer look at the combustion chamber side with all the valves removed. Needs cleaning up.



Valves and springs from one head. The tiny little things are the split collets. They look harder to put back than they were to take out!

Welloilbeefhooked

iTrader: (3)

I hate grinding valves by hand Nick!! But, its the best way to do it.

I remember my GSI Cav head that I spent 2 hours with the stick and paste!

I dont envy you mate.

BTW, got the rubber plug.

Wayne.

silent running

Well it does look like the seats and valves measure up OK, but I will need to lap the valves in to tidy things up a bit. What I really need is a picture of what the job should look like once it's finished.

Also, I will be taking the plugs out and cleaning both the heads up either down the jetwash or in my parts washer. But am I ok to use a drill mounted wire brush to get the crud out of the ports and combustion chamber? And if not, what is the best thing to use?

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Use some polystyrene to hold your valves.

What one of my mates has done,

silent running

What a great idea - I'll do that. I've kept the retainers, springs and collets all together with their valves, but is that being too meticulous? It would make things easier just to keep the valves ID'd but throw all the rest of the stuff in a bag.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Keep them all together?

Looks like there'd be enough on the valve stem to have everything together and held in the polystyrene?

silent running

I'll keep each valve together with its bits and bobs then.

Welloilbeefhooked

iTrader: (3)

Any blisters yet Nick?

Also, how bad is that CDB you had with the spun liner? I'm looking for one to have resleeved to 2.5. Would it be ok for this?

If yours is ok I would rather pass money your way mate.

Cheers,

Wayne.

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

It would be an ideal candidate