StickyMicky

will be interesting to see what sort of figures you get with the 16g

fwiw i have my injector dutys (440`s) running at 98% to control mine at 1.6bar in the midrange

was planning on swapping the injectors out for some larger ones at some point as its not "ideal" but the current lagless torque is just tooooo nice, i cant turn the turbo down, i tried, i really did but i failed

Matt578

No problem mate, just glad you got the damn thing off

silent running

Well, we'll have to see what it makes. If this setup can't do 350bhp, nothing can based on a 16G.

StickyMicky

i recently did 300 at the wheels

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

You can borrow my engine crane if it helps....St Albans, Herts area...

Get those brackets painted, you'll kick yourself later on

silent running

300 at the wheels would be very nice.

I will get those brackets painted if I get the time this week. Black same as the heads. That's a very kind offer Ollie but I'm a bit too far away from you mate!

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

No problem...worth it just to see this thread/the build updating

minty

iTrader: (1)

any more news or has it been too cold for any car work ??

silent running

Well I've hired the engine crane just now so tonight I'll be sorting through the parts in the garage and clearing some space, then tomorrow it'll be time to get on and fit the engine. I might lift it off the stand tonight actually, then I can start fitting the clutch assembly and engine mounts. That way it will be a case of rolling the car around in front of the garage door, clear the space in the engine bay, drop the engine in (sounds so easy!) and then roll the car inside, shut the door and get working on it.

I still need to fit the whole FMIC kit, but I can just about do that in the garage and unless it's really dry and warmish tomorrow, it would be easier to do that last, under cover.

silent running

Noooo! Just checked the clutch release bearing and under a coat of grime and old grease I found the ear that had bent out a little has actually got a small crack through it! This wouldn't normally be too much of a hassle, but I've got the crane hired, and decent dry weather expected tomorrow...where on earth can I get hold of a new bearing on a Saturday morning? I can't do anything else until I've got it.

minty

iTrader: (1)

i dont know of anyone local to you i'm afraid. I had a similar experience on a friday evening ahead of a saturday install and i noticed the thrust bearing for the flywheel had cracked.

Graham Goode were the nearest to me, a 40 minute drive to Leicester at rush hour on a fri evening, but i got one and fitted it all Saturday ahead of the McRae gathering on Sunday which i got to quite tired after finishing at 3.30 am.

Good Luck, i hope someone nearby can help.
Chris.

SleeperSy

Just sent you a PM - may be able to help - but not sure where you are.

silent running

PM'd back mate - many thanks for the offer, if only I lived closer to you!

I've been ringing round everywhere this morning and the only place I can find one is Xtreme Scoobies near Chelmsford and it would have cost near on £100 so that's out of the running, plus it would have been a four hour round trip as well... I went to my local Partco in Lowestoft and the buggers, they had a complete clutch kit with the exact bearing in it, but wouldn't split it and sell the bearing on its own! So near, yet so far....

I even went up my local garage who I'm sure would have had an old one lying around somewhere because they always have a few Subarus in, but this was the only Saturday morning they've ever been shut!

So I've found a couple of cheap online places that can get me one for around £40 delivered, I'll have to go ahead and do that and find a use for my crane.

I'm really wondering, is there a way I can just get on and crane the engine in anyway and somehow leave a 'crack' open on the bellhousing so I could wangle the new bearing in when it comes and then maybe clonk it with a big hammer and have it just fall into place? Perhaps I can leave it resting on the engine mount studs or something and do the rest without the aid of a crane?

So now as it seems I won't get one this weekend

silent running

New clutch release bearing is on its way Monday morning from Import Car Parts - worth a look if you're after pretty much any bits and bobs e.g. I've had belts, idlers, small gaskets, modine etc off Mark at ICP, very good prices and service. Hence for £34 delivered, I couldn't say no to a new clutch bearing, compared to £90 + vat at Subaru.

Power steering belt trial fitment. Had to take the belt off again afterwards to hang the A/C belt in place behind it. The three CDF pulleys look mint. You can see a bit of my exhaust wrap got raggedy on the expanding joint in the middle of the crossover pipe (bottom of photo). Luckily I had a bit leftover so I've redone that bit now.



Well I couldn't use the crane as intended, but I thought I better do something with it, so I properly cleared the garage out today in preparation for rolling the car in soon. I then rigged it up so I could lift the engine off the stand and onto a tabletop with a pallet on it, so I would then be able to fit the engine mounts, clutch, crankcase breather hose and a couple of hard water pipes. All of these were blocked by the long bolts I'd used to mount the lump to the engine stand, so with it off the stand, the problem is solved. I had it strapped under each side of the manifold - on SHORT straps this time!



Here you can see the engine crane in position, the legs just about fit around the legs of the engine stand so the two can get close enough. Take the strain with the crane then the four long bolts can come out of the bellhousing perimeter that I used to mount the engine up. Move the stand out of the way and the engine is hanging freely. You can see the new bit of exhaust wrap there. It's DEI copper coated by the way if you're wondering about the colour.



Here's the engine sitting on the pallet, on top of a table, on its sump. I just used the pallet cos I don't want to knacker up the table and it helps spread the load out. New clutch bearing won't arrive for a couple of days, so in the meantime I'll be fitting everything else I can, and then wait until next weekend to hire the crane out...again!

silent running

Clutch now fitted! After a bit of a muddle with getting it aligned, it's all sorted. I cleaned off the flywheel, clutch friction plate and clutch cover with brake cleaner, wiped it all down dry, then put the plate loosely in place inside the cover. Pushed the cover onto its two small dowels on the flywheel, loosely fitted the 6 perimeter bolts. Used a screwdriver inserted through the middle of the flywheel bearing to position the clutch plate centrally then tightened the clutch cover bolts evenly in a criss cross pattern until they were all at 15Nm torque.

I aligned it by eye, basically, but it looks close enough to me. I used the gap between the clutch plate splines and the circumference of the metal bearing basket to get it even. Hopefully it's close enough that when the thing goes onto the gearbox the main gearbox shaft will nudge it the final mm it needs one way or the other.

I can see how I broke the last clutch release bearing now. When I separated the engine from the 'box, I pulled the bearing out with the engine side i.e. it was stuck onto the clutch centre. It should have stayed with the release fork on the gearbox side.

minty

iTrader: (1)

that sounds word for word how i did mine too, apart from the removal part, but i did knacker one trying to get it off initially.

great work, keep it coming

evander

iTrader: (1)

The input shaft wont move the clutch diaphragm, it would be a little worrying if it did, its meant to take the torque from your engine. You may have difficulty with it lining up or you may be lucky, its a lottery. I have an old input shaft lying about which is handy for clutch alignment.

The release bearing is meant to part with and stay on the engine side during removal, this is why you remove the clutch pin and lift the fork so it can.

silent running

I wondered if it would nudge a little one way or the other as it would be a kind of 'side load' rather than a rotating one. I'll check the alignment again with some kind of tool just to be sure.

Weird that I messed up my release bearing. I definitely removed the clutch fork pin entirely before splitting the box from the engine. Maybe I didnt lift the fork in the right way and it got stuck. I'll know for next time.

On a more cheerful note, the new clutch release bearing has arrived and it is the exact same identical part as before - just at a third the price of what Subaru charge.

Matt578

I lined mine up by eye and it went in first time, but i think it was luck

silent running

Not very exciting news today, but I've had to postpone the engine crane until next weekend. I was just tidying up the breather and water plumbing under the throttle body and the short crankcase breather outlet pipe had gone brittle and split. So I'm replacing it with a silicone reducer so I can run a straight 13mm hose off to my bulkhead mounted catchtank with minimal bends.

silent running

Engine's in! A bit of bouncing it up and down got the wheels freed after the wagon had been stood for 8 months and I rolled it into position outside the garage.



Working one of the lifting straps through with a screwdriver, under the inlet manifold runners:



Once the engine was lifted I could get underneath and attach the two engine mounts to the block. This was the LH one, which in this photo I have on back to front. 34Nm IIRC, make sure the bottom studs poke out at an angle rather than straight down.



Getting the engine out in the light of day for the first time:



Preparing the gearbox bellhousing; new clutch release bearing in place, fork in position, pin through horizonally keeping everything right:



I jacked up the gearbox first to get it at a better angle, then brought the engine in close, lowering slowly to get the studs at the bottom to engage first. Once these were in loosely, the rest was just a case of slow manouevring around to get everything to lock in place. Once it looked like the bottom studs were just about there, I screwed in the top bolts as well to keep it all centred properly, the gearbox main shaft seemed to go into the clutch centre OK, so I guess it must have worked. I put the gearbox in 5th and gave the crank a tiny turn and it let out a little clonk which apparently is the sound of the splines engaging (thanks to JGM on an old thread for that one!) After this it was just a case of lowering the gearbox and engine slowly, tightening up the two bolts and two stud nuts and working the engine mount bottom studs through their holes on the cross member. By evenly tightening the bellhousing up I got it to close nice and tight.



It was getting dark by now but still, I got it all sorted, here it is with the engine all fitted ready for the bonnet to go down on it for the night. Tomorrow it will be plumbing and wiring. And downpipe.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

whens the big start up date

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

well done fella almost there and i know what you mean with the brakes stuck as mines the same

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Getting there.

If I didn't park on a hill, I wouldn't leave the handbrake on for a week, let alone 8 month. Leave it in gear since it's in a garage

silent running

Well I'm in no rush. I've got a couple of weeks off now so I'll take it as it comes. The main thing that's changed is now I can get it into the garage and work on it indoors and I can get all the big stuff out of the way that was cluttering things up i.e. old pallets, workbenches, scraps of cardboard, engine crane, engine stand etc. With everything cleared out it's just me, the car and my tools and I can crack on with the garage heater and radio blasting out.

Tomorrow I'll put on the downpipe and sort out the power steering and aircon hardware first of all out on the driveway and maybe stick the radiator back in. Then once it's under cover I'll start on the plumbing for fuel, water and breathers plus the wiring which should be fairly straightforward.

Last job will be to fit the new FMIC kit then it should be ready to fire up, so there should be a lot of progress in the next week or so. The only fly in the ointment is that one of the top gearbox bolts feels a bit tight and I suspect it's threaded, so I might try and make a tap for it out of an old stud and clean it up.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

You'll need the rest of the front end off to fit the FMIC.

Total waste of your time refitting the rad now. You'll only have to take it off again.

Atari Boy

Good work Nick, I am sorry I missed the big day.
I bet there are very few people that can say they got their mother to help putting an engine back in a car .

silent running

LOL well she was visiting so I needed someone on the crane!

No worries about the FMIC. First time I fitted one I never touched the rad, nor did I when I took it out either. The new one will go straight in I'm sure. But I guess I might as well leave the rad until the end, it'll give me a bit more working room to get the A/C and the belts sorted out.

TBag1987

Really enjoyed reading your thread Nick, I am currently at work and have read the whole lot page 1 - 15, my boss will be thrilled! Finding it especially interesting as I'm looking to get my first scoob soon, and I want to get a 2000 model, fairly basic and set about stripping and cleaning then tuning it all myself, I'm sure I will be coming back to re read your thread in the future, when I inevitably get stuck! Look forward to the next update, keep it up. Merry Christmas!

nullfork

Nick,

Echo the other guys, you should be proud of yourself, proper dedication and looks like things are going to work out for you. Fingers crossed for the big day

One question... did you leave the gearbox supported whilst working on the engine? I'm doing a similair thing at the mo and need to move the shell (which has the transmission still). I've left a jack under the gearbox and am wondering if there is a need for this or am I just being a bit over cautious?

Stu