ric

WOW, very interesting thread.

I have a UK-spec MY98. It has a cold air induction kit and a complete exhaust system. Now I am also looking for a power upgrade to make my car faster. As you John, I want as much power low down as possible, while still retaining good power in the high revs.

I inspected a lot of different setups and the problem for me is that I live in Switzerland, so here you don't find a good mapper and therefore the Link is no option. Also for the Unichip I would have to travel around 1000kms.

I got to know a mechanic of a car tuner and he told me that they are fitting an upgraded TD-04 to their cars. The turbo stays the same on the exhaus side but gets a new wheel on the intake side (the wheel is from an Audi RS2 turbo). He offered me a test drive in a car that was equipped with that charger and tuned to 1.1bar peak and 1.0bar held by a boost controller. I was imprezzed! The turbo responded VERY fast (like the OEM charger) but had MUCH more power and torque than my car and was just incredibly fast in the higher rev range. There was a boost gauge installed, so I could read the peak and held figures of the boost. The tuner says that you can go up to 1.15bar held with that charger and the car will produce around 280bhp with that setup (exhaust system and intake mods).

Maybe that turbo was a solution for you John? The upgrade process isn't that expensive - around 400£.

In the moment I am undecided what to do:
- go the upgraded TD04 route and run it with an EBC + Unichip
- go the IHI-VF24 route and run it with an EBC + Unichip
- go the IHI-VF23 route and upgrade my injectors ......upgrade pistons.........etc.

I would like to learn how to map the Link, but I there is too much danger for me: I could damage my engine, could end up with a setup that isn't really powerful..........

What do you think.

ric

PS How can you run a VF24 at 1.6bar boost?

Sam Elassar

hi ric
i think more and more tuners are starting to realise just how restrictive that standard turbo is.
the benefit of just upgrading the turbo all together is you end up with a spare one, just incase. and as you have mentioned to get another turbo is not that expensive anyway.

another option you can think of is to get a VF23,OR vf22 as both have larger compressor than the VF24,28 BUT use the smaller turbine housing of the VF24,28( p18 )as suggested by pat a while back. similar the move from E6 TO E7 ? similar to the VF30?


ric mate if you want link, just take me on a skiing holiday and i will call it even


hoppy
it is very true, but you are not really making any reasonable boost un till 2800rpm really. remember that these dynos were done in 4th gear. in lower gears you won't get the full boost until later. what all that means is you would need to drive the car in lower gear than you normally would around town.
i think the P1 and STI4 TYPER were the most responsive cars i have ever driven that is because of the VF28 and the short gearing.

on hind site i will probably should have gone to a VF28, LINK and FMIC intercooler on my car and run it at 1.3 bar. that would have made it more useable but maybe not as fast at the top end.


just get a P1 mate, much easier
sam

[Edited by Sam Elassar - 12/22/2001 1:31:14 PM]

john banks

Looks like you can go down to 90CFM at PR 2.2 (1.2 bar boost)on TD04 9B and 120CFM at PR 2.2 on TD04 13G before you hit the surge line from the fudged maps we have. Assuming 100% VE and compressor efficiency an EJ20 would flow 187CFM at 1.2 bar boost 2500rpm. I can't believe I have the 13G turbo as it flows almost as well as a TD05 - which mine patently doesn't! So as long as my VE is >50% (I certainly hope so!) it looks like I am OK. Anyone want to rip apart my assumptions or suggest a better way?

[Edited by john banks - 12/22/2001 1:26:25 PM]

john banks

In fact using the curve supplied for half of a three litre engine with 100% VE, I think that may be a useful ballpark for a reasonable flow rate for an EJ20 with realistic VE and compessor efficiency. The numbers work out similar to Conduit's graph on I-club.


Net result is it seems pretty safe the boost levels I am running. Hoppy I really do suggest you waste £25 first even though a bigger turbo may be the way to go. But I still like the way the car flies from 2000rpm if you keep the wastegate shut.

A thought - if you run a properly setup big turbo it looks like you would have less lag or no worse than the original unmodded car given that that does nothing at all until beyond 2500rpm!