DiddyWRX

See so many people say different things, I'm running Z4 ecu, stock boost, decat, full system and induction and iv been told by many it can 1bar safely as it stands!

Thedevilandhiscar

What mods do you have ???

dan83590

<---- view my Scoob...

Claaarkio

iTrader: (1)

There are alot of things that can change the output of an individual car, my first run was 237bhp and running rich = 0.7 AFR, we then tried a new MAF and the fueling was much better at 0.8 and 258bhp (With a cone filter) putting the original airbox back on caused a 8bhp drop back to 250bhp.

All interesting stuff, it was good to do changes and she what difference they made while on the rolling road.

All done at Alan Jeffery's in Plymouth, Martin was very helpful and chatty.

Dave

DiddyWRX

Ill be getting my boost setup to the safest highest level on the dyno soon then we'll see what she goes like! I'd like 270 odd

orbix

My 95 wrx wagon was on the rollers at the weekend, I have td05, decat, panel and running a esl 1.1bar chip.
It managed 244bhp at 0.9bar, I was hoping for 260+.

Andy Stevens

Youve got mail about that orbix, something very wrong there.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

No offence orbix but that's pretty poor especially running the higher boost.
my 93 wrx made that on a standard ecu (u8) decat,IK and backbox.
Did they say if there were any problems?

Although r/r figures are pub talk figures and if you're happy about how it feels on the road then thats's what matters

Andy Stevens

Apparently it runs well enough, but orbix doesnt have a boost gauge so one needs to be fitted to see what boost it makes on the road.

The best result on the same hardware and map is 309bhp, my 93WRX on that map made 290, so either the RR operator slipped off the throttle during the run or it has a boost issue. The RR operaotr also mentioned 10 psi, which is 0.69 bar, not 0.9 so that might be telling.

Check to make sure you are getting full throttle orbix and fit a boost gauge, though tbh 244bhp will feel pretty slow on the road and you seemed happy enough when it was fitted!

Will advise when I know what the actual boost is.

orbix

Hi Andy, I read through this thread saw your name but never clicked! Don't you use your compnay name anymore?

Don't get me wrong, the chips I've had from esl have always improved the performance and yes i've always been happy with them.

I don't run any gauges as they are ugly things and I can't stand to see them bolted on to pillars and steering columns. I may need to change my views on them though!

There was no problems with the car that the guy doing the RR noticed.
As for the actual boost i was getting on the rr, would the read outs I got tell me the actual figure?

Andy Stevens

Depends what they logged. Can you send me a piccy? Be especially interested in the torque curve and how soon it drops off, that will tell a story.

A boost gauge is essential really. Even if you take it off when weve got it sorted

Andy Stevens

What engine speed was peak power at and what was peak torque?

orbix

I have 2 read outs I'll email them to you tonight.
Are boost gauges easy to fit?

Andy Stevens

Piece of P. Instructions will come with, but just shout me if you want any help when its going on.

I'll report back on the graphs and what they show.

Claaarkio

iTrader: (1)

Suddenly started running 0.9 bar over the weekend?!?! felt gooood.

but on the work run this morning i only managed to spool up once and it only went to 0.8 again! so i'm glad i ordered the dawes device (not arrived yet) as I suspect the Boost solenoid!

Dave

orbix

I've now fitted a boost gauge, although i managed to buy the only gauge that didn't come with a fitting kit i think.

So thanks to a very helpful man in a local car parts shop I got everything I needed to fit it.

I haven't had chance to do many runs in it so far since fitting the gauge but already I'm getting 1bar(ish) in 4th & 5th gear.

Now the car has gone in to the paint shop so I won't see it until the weekend.

Claaarkio

iTrader: (1)

The Dawes Device arrived yesterday, after a bit of a wait.. and its in, i've set it to about 0.9bar and its pulling very well, getting it on the rollers again in a couple of weeks to make sure its all ok

Dave

orbix

I've now driven the car around for a week now with the boost gauge fitted.
It hits max boost at the following revs:-

1st 1bar @ 5000revs(ish)
2nd 0.9bar @ 4500revs
3rd 1bar @ 4200revs
4th 1bar @ 3900revs
5th 1bar @ 3300revs

In 5th gear the needle does go above 1 bar but only fractionally. In 3th gear the needle fluctuates just below 1bar.
I have also checked the actuator arm, nothing seems loose, however i'm not sure how stiff it should be. I can push it back using my hand.
I haven't checked yet to see if i'm getting WOT.

Do these boost figures seem right?
Is there any other simple checks I can do?

Andy Stevens

1 bar at 3300 not far off, some make it earlier, some later, depending on an alot of variables.

Its the wastegate valve you need to check for play in with the heatshield off. If there is any, and you have an adjustable actuator, take the play out.

Assuming the boost gauge is accurate, you probably need a bit more duty in the right hand column to make 1.1bar.

Check for full throttle before doing anything else as it will take 10 seconds with 2 people.

orbix

I'll read your email again about checking for full throttle then only I thought the butterfly valve was inside the inlet manifold and would require pipes and the I/C off to check.

Matt_taylor

hi sorry for hijacking but will a Z4 ECU go on a 97UKTurbo??

orbix

I don't think it will.
For a start, how many plugs have you got in your ecu (z4 has 4) also it's mapped for a td05 with 380 injectors don't you have td04 with 440 injectors?

I'm sure Andy would be able to give you an definite answer.

Matt_taylor

thanks orbix, i will look into it, i only thought about this a couple of horus ago so doin a bit of research

orbix

I am getting full throttle, the arm hits the metal stop.

orbix

So do I need to unscrew the actuator arm and then check for play in that short lever?

Scott.T@PolarPerformance

remove heatshield
undo lock-nut on actuator arm (if it has adjustment, some don't)
remove circlip where it holds the actuator onto the turbo wastegate
remove actuator arm from wastegate
shorten actuator arm length so that you have to tug it slightly to drop it back onto the wastgate with wastegate closed (i.e towards the front of the car)
refit circlip
tighten locknut

job done

orbix

Cheers
Taking that shield off though is pain in the ****.

orbix

I made the arm 2mm too short in order to tug it slightly.
Now I'm getting 1.1 bar on my boost gauge

Scott.T@PolarPerformance

Is that what you wanted then ??

sorry havn't read all the thread, just came in at the end...

orbix

Yes take a quick look at thread #36

I wanted to know what power I had before the next set of mods.
Now everything is as it should be i'm in two minds to either put her on the rollers again or just go ahead and do the mods.

Next is 440's, tmic, pump and a map sensor. I'm not sure yet what sort of remap to get