2.5 - lets hear your experiences good and bad
#122
Originally Posted by AlanG
I didn't realise you live *fairly* close Des. If you fancy meeting up at some point, you can experience the differences for yourself?
Originally Posted by AlanG
Having to continually balance traction with throttle is a pain because you can't always get the throttle (boost ) right for every situation, so after a while it becomes tedious.
Originally Posted by 911
If 550 x 550 overwhelms (sp) the chassis, perhaps 450 x 450 does not (diff/tyres uprated), then the 450 car will (could)be overall quicker to B from A (assuming bendy bits in the track!)
#123
That was the conclusion I came to on the Snet '2.33' thread (bloody good debate that was, just as this is).
To be fighting the car in adverse conditions will slow you down.
This year at a very wet Hillclimb I nearly took FTD in the Sti as the car was so good in the wet, barely loosing traction over dry conditions so I could push it very hard that run. That was 380 x 360.
Others were on wet slicks and in single seaters etc.
Graham.
To be fighting the car in adverse conditions will slow you down.
This year at a very wet Hillclimb I nearly took FTD in the Sti as the car was so good in the wet, barely loosing traction over dry conditions so I could push it very hard that run. That was 380 x 360.
Others were on wet slicks and in single seaters etc.
Graham.
#124
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Climbing Wagon
Originally Posted by 911
That was the conclusion I came to on the Snet '2.33' thread (bloody good debate that was, just as this is).
To be fighting the car in adverse conditions will slow you down.
This year at a very wet Hillclimb I nearly took FTD in the Sti as the car was so good in the wet, barely loosing traction over dry conditions so I could push it very hard that run. That was 380 x 360.
Others were on wet slicks and in single seaters etc.
Graham.
To be fighting the car in adverse conditions will slow you down.
This year at a very wet Hillclimb I nearly took FTD in the Sti as the car was so good in the wet, barely loosing traction over dry conditions so I could push it very hard that run. That was 380 x 360.
Others were on wet slicks and in single seaters etc.
Graham.
#125
Originally Posted by *smiles*
Would love to hill climb a wagon, even if just once, just to see the look on peoples faces
#127
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If you do this level of mod find a nice straight road in the rain and plant your foot and prepare to put on fresh underwear.
My worst nightmare is someone doing this level of mod and planting their foot while in the middle of a bend
#128
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Alan, "or is just that there's a wall of torque in mid range that top end feels flat in comparison?" is correct m8...although below 2500 has nowt at all, she coughs and farts because of the cams, it doesn't matter...the surge from over 2500 and a massive wall of torque makes up for it, I've not found I've been stuck in the boggy area at all, maybe at worse just need to drop a gear. Although it would be nice to have pull from 2000, I really dont miss it and yes I can easily go over 6000 revs but that's not the way I drive (being ex mechanical engineer, I dont like red line area) - she does drop off torque a little but there's plenty enough of a power band to go ***** out in every gear and not bog down at all, not like the 400 bhp evo 8 as seen on Top Gear - I've never yet been caught like that on twisty roads.
#129
Great thread, i've been toying with the idea of the 2.5L. As a few have mentioned 350/350 would be ideal for me. The question I have is could you do this by keeping the TDO4? Or is a new turbo a must?
#130
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I dont think you'll find a TD04 will give you enough flow for a 2.5L or at least you'll have the 6000 revs and no further drive problem...spool on it will be blo*dy quick though I guess.
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the TD04 is far too small to give you much power above about 4500 i reckon.
it would spool stupidly quick though i think youd have near full boost by about 1800!! maybe less...but you still wouldnt get much power out of it as the turbo wont physically be able to shift enough air to fill the engine at higher RPM.....
it would spool stupidly quick though i think youd have near full boost by about 1800!! maybe less...but you still wouldnt get much power out of it as the turbo wont physically be able to shift enough air to fill the engine at higher RPM.....
#133
Originally Posted by AlanG
Good case for traction control to take away that task.
Originally Posted by AlanG
Just can't do it imo, unless you have several thousand pounds worth of fancy suspension to harness the power and even then, i'm not sure if you could totally eradicate it. Doesn't help running tyres which are only 215mm wide... Not a lot of footprint.
*smiles* - so have you bought the doggy seatbelts I see advertised?
#134
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Originally Posted by DesR
*smiles* - so have you bought the doggy seatbelts I see advertised?
#136
Always do the Chassis first, then the engine.
Mistake i made was to buy cheap coil-overs that proved to be very poor quality (AVO's).
Coil-overs should not be the first thing to buy imho, but a good set will be great when you are ready.
A good alignment technician is akin to a good mapper for the engine!
Graham
ps: blag yourself a ride/drive in the Litchfield Type C as i did and you will see why you fit AST's @ £1400.
Mistake i made was to buy cheap coil-overs that proved to be very poor quality (AVO's).
Coil-overs should not be the first thing to buy imho, but a good set will be great when you are ready.
A good alignment technician is akin to a good mapper for the engine!
Graham
ps: blag yourself a ride/drive in the Litchfield Type C as i did and you will see why you fit AST's @ £1400.
#137
Originally Posted by *smiles*
nope, not seen those, what site they on
#138
Drag it!
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Originally Posted by 911
ps: blag yourself a ride/drive in the Litchfield Type C as i did and you will see why you fit AST's @ £1400.
#139
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Originally Posted by DesR
#140
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"...but doesn't restrict your dog from sitting, turning or lying down on the car seat.."
Thats the problem, the dog moves around and gets all tangled up in seatbelt and harness, trussed up like a maypole and have to pull the cra over and spend twenty minutes trying to free dog from harness and seat belt.
Thats the problem, the dog moves around and gets all tangled up in seatbelt and harness, trussed up like a maypole and have to pull the cra over and spend twenty minutes trying to free dog from harness and seat belt.
#142
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Its my thread, and I'll stray if i want, stray if i want to ... Sing along
Originally Posted by dynamix
is this straying slightly off topic ?
Originally Posted by DesR
...*smiles* - so have you bought the doggy seatbelts I see advertised? ...Mucky Pup Dog Car Seat Belt Harness at Care4car.com
..Besides, Its my thread so I sanction the straying
#144
Allow me one more 'stray' please.
About the AST's:
That day I tried the Type C I drove 80 miles on the road to a hillclimb (Prescott, 4 miles from Powerstation).
Raced (or rather practiced) on the track 2 times and then nipped down to PS with the EVO Driver (in his EVO..another story).
Went out in the black Type C with AST's and the power conversion they do.
I was encouraged by Ian to pedal it hard. I did as i was still in race mode (even still had my race suit on).
I am confident I compared the classic to the Type C as I was so surprised how similar they are on the road.
The AST's can transform the cars. I'm sure that other quality systems can too before some jump at me!
The Type C's most striking features for me was the twin scroll engine and the 6 speed box, light years ahead of my golden oldie 2 litre.
The ride back in the EVO RS was another revelation (Ohlins 2 ways and 550bhp)
What a car.
No more suspension from me now...
Graham.
About the AST's:
That day I tried the Type C I drove 80 miles on the road to a hillclimb (Prescott, 4 miles from Powerstation).
Raced (or rather practiced) on the track 2 times and then nipped down to PS with the EVO Driver (in his EVO..another story).
Went out in the black Type C with AST's and the power conversion they do.
I was encouraged by Ian to pedal it hard. I did as i was still in race mode (even still had my race suit on).
I am confident I compared the classic to the Type C as I was so surprised how similar they are on the road.
The AST's can transform the cars. I'm sure that other quality systems can too before some jump at me!
The Type C's most striking features for me was the twin scroll engine and the 6 speed box, light years ahead of my golden oldie 2 litre.
The ride back in the EVO RS was another revelation (Ohlins 2 ways and 550bhp)
What a car.
No more suspension from me now...
Graham.
Last edited by 911; 14 November 2006 at 10:48 PM.
#145
OK... back on topic then... whats the cheapest 350/350 build for *smiles* using a new 2.5 engine. I never tried to build the 2.5 to this level so havent investigated the type of spec needed but off hand would suggest something like:
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
#146
#147
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Originally Posted by DesR
OK... back on topic then... whats the cheapest 350/350 build for *smiles* using a new 2.5 engine. I never tried to build the 2.5 to this level so havent investigated the type of spec needed but off hand would suggest something like:
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
Would love to learn to do the spanner stuff, but sadly dont have the facilities to do it myself, plus work commitments mean it would never get done any time soon
#148
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Originally Posted by DesR
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With the GT35R have you found anything you felt provided tangible benefits in terms of spool up?
#150
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OK... back on topic then... whats the cheapest 350/350 build for *smiles* using a new 2.5 engine
P20SPD
O/T How does Alan Bell's car compare with your own?