2.5 - lets hear your experiences good and bad
#151
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Alan, putting it simply, Alan's car is far superior to mine between 2000 and 5000, it is just SO driveable with ease. Mine clearly has more power and torque, but it doesnt have the same torque curve as Alan's.
#152
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Originally Posted by DesR
OK... back on topic then... whats the cheapest 350/350 build for *smiles* using a new 2.5 engine. I never tried to build the 2.5 to this level so havent investigated the type of spec needed but off hand would suggest something like:
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
TD05-16/18G (or maybe a fancy twin scoll?) - £800
2.5 engine obviously - £1600 including gaskets
remap - variable but at least £500
FPR - £80-ish (didnt see this on *smiles* car spec sheet)
2" DEI wrap - £60
engine oil - (people always forget this) - up to £50-ish
Total +-£3200
Did I miss anything?
Exceeds your original budget of £2K but I'd expect you wont be disappointed . You are planning to do the spanner work yourself? Anyone want to correct me or my budget?
I have just had a quote back for my 2.0 rebuild and I am still picking myself up of the floor
£2655 +vat that was on sti 9 internals with acl bearings, rebore, gaskets and labour.
plus I need a new clutch and flywheel, plus oil and sundries etc
plus another remap
Thats a lot of money on a 2.0 API quoted me £2300 for a straight rebuild with sti 5 parts including labour on my 2.0
so its time to look at other options, the 2.5 short block looks good value in comparison.
may just look for a working sti 5/6 engine to get it back on road and rebuild this one at later date or sell of the heads and bits to get some money back
otherwise its sell the car as it is requiring engine as a project for someone, and go off to lick my wounds
Not a good day, need a beer or 10 now
#153
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i know that it probably wont come to it but if you do decide to sell off the blown engine and ancillaries then give me a shout....
#154
If you are looking for just an engine try this link, dont know if he's sold it.
https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...gine-sale.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...gine-sale.html
#157
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Why sell after you've fitted a replacement engine?
Spend all that money just to sell it? There's no point imo, might as well get some fun out of it before you make a rash decision to get rid.
Spend all that money just to sell it? There's no point imo, might as well get some fun out of it before you make a rash decision to get rid.
#158
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Originally Posted by AlanG
Why sell after you've fitted a replacement engine?
Spend all that money just to sell it? There's no point imo, might as well get some fun out of it before you make a rash decision to get rid.
Spend all that money just to sell it? There's no point imo, might as well get some fun out of it before you make a rash decision to get rid.
#160
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P20 SPD
I've just bought Alan's old TD06-49....how superior is his new turbo to that one? Hope i'm not gonna be disapointed when i get it fitted....!!
Dave
I've just bought Alan's old TD06-49....how superior is his new turbo to that one? Hope i'm not gonna be disapointed when i get it fitted....!!
Dave
Originally Posted by P20SPD
Alan, putting it simply, Alan's car is far superior to mine between 2000 and 5000, it is just SO driveable with ease. Mine clearly has more power and torque, but it doesnt have the same torque curve as Alan's.
#161
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Daveo, i have the same but a 53 and it's rather nice. I came from a 20G though and thought it was a nice step up, but in some ways, wish i had got the 55, just to make the step a WHOLE lot better.
Dunno what turbo you had fitted before?
Dunno what turbo you had fitted before?
#162
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Originally Posted by AlanG
I'll have approximately 500,000 beers tonight....
Pity i can't drink them... only maintain the plant that packages them..
Pity i can't drink them... only maintain the plant that packages them..
A mate came into me work yesterday and offered me 12k cash for the scoob, without even being in it before.....slightly tempted to say the least!
#167
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It's got an MD304 on it now...nice but a tad small. Looking forward to the 'step up'!!
Originally Posted by drb5
Daveo, i have the same but a 53 and it's rather nice. I came from a 20G though and thought it was a nice step up, but in some ways, wish i had got the 55, just to make the step a WHOLE lot better.
Dunno what turbo you had fitted before?
Dunno what turbo you had fitted before?
#168
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Alan,
Nice figures. Mine's 'only' a 2.2 but if I get similar figures to what you got I'll be more than happy....especially at 1.5 bar. I'll be in touch soon to pick the beast up.
Dave
Nice figures. Mine's 'only' a 2.2 but if I get similar figures to what you got I'll be more than happy....especially at 1.5 bar. I'll be in touch soon to pick the beast up.
Dave
Originally Posted by alanbell
Dave I had 444.3 bhp @ 430 Llb when the TD06 was on mine ,
#170
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Smiles, I'd go for 2.5L sti block with oe internals (for about 1300 being a good price I guess), fit existing heads if in good order...you'll need gaskets, oil, oil pump (for safety as your original engine naff) and prob best fit 2.5L large sump also.
Fit rest with what you've got already, injectors, IC, etc, but have FPR and fuel pump uprated and remap with ecutek...
Oh plus clutch and possibly flywheel re-machine or change....still wont be cheap but you'll like the results and then you can do simple upgrade at later date for bigger turbo/injectors/remap if you want/got spare cash - to be honest, it prob just depends what turbo you've got now...if it flows decent, you'll prob not want to change it as 2.5L is barrel of laughs.
If money really that short, buy 2nd hand engine from someone you know prob best and do FPR etc plus remap - but beware you dont buy engine in almost same condition as what you're getting rid of!
Fit rest with what you've got already, injectors, IC, etc, but have FPR and fuel pump uprated and remap with ecutek...
Oh plus clutch and possibly flywheel re-machine or change....still wont be cheap but you'll like the results and then you can do simple upgrade at later date for bigger turbo/injectors/remap if you want/got spare cash - to be honest, it prob just depends what turbo you've got now...if it flows decent, you'll prob not want to change it as 2.5L is barrel of laughs.
If money really that short, buy 2nd hand engine from someone you know prob best and do FPR etc plus remap - but beware you dont buy engine in almost same condition as what you're getting rid of!
#171
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Originally Posted by swisstonihasher
Smiles, I'd go for 2.5L sti block with oe internals (for about 1300 being a good price I guess), fit existing heads if in good order...you'll need gaskets, oil, oil pump (for safety as your original engine naff) and prob best fit 2.5L large sump also.
Fit rest with what you've got already, injectors, IC, etc, but have FPR and fuel pump uprated and remap with ecutek...
Oh plus clutch and possibly flywheel re-machine or change....still wont be cheap but you'll like the results and then you can do simple upgrade at later date for bigger turbo/injectors/remap if you want/got spare cash - to be honest, it prob just depends what turbo you've got now...if it flows decent, you'll prob not want to change it as 2.5L is barrel of laughs.
If money really that short, buy 2nd hand engine from someone you know prob best and do FPR etc plus remap - but beware you dont buy engine in almost same condition as what you're getting rid of!
Fit rest with what you've got already, injectors, IC, etc, but have FPR and fuel pump uprated and remap with ecutek...
Oh plus clutch and possibly flywheel re-machine or change....still wont be cheap but you'll like the results and then you can do simple upgrade at later date for bigger turbo/injectors/remap if you want/got spare cash - to be honest, it prob just depends what turbo you've got now...if it flows decent, you'll prob not want to change it as 2.5L is barrel of laughs.
If money really that short, buy 2nd hand engine from someone you know prob best and do FPR etc plus remap - but beware you dont buy engine in almost same condition as what you're getting rid of!
The mist has cleared now and am thinking more sensible now.
I am sold on the 2.5 idea and plan to get there as long as it takes to do it properly. If a short block comes up I may grab it and then do bits as I can afford them.
Looking at some storage for her as we dont have a garage and dont fancy her being parked up on the street for the next 3 or 4 winter months with no engine in it. Going to see if any lockup garages locally to rent, maybe room to work on the engine too and collect some tools. I'll ask santa for a socket set and some halfords vouchers
Cheers again guys, you are an inspiration and waht scoobynet is all about
#172
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Anybody got the facilities to store the car or know of a place that could store it in the hampshire/ wiltshire/ dorset/ berkshire/ surrey area
somebody want to hire there garage out or got space in a warehouse or depot
Just thinking if there are any farmers round here that may have a barn or similar
somebody want to hire there garage out or got space in a warehouse or depot
Just thinking if there are any farmers round here that may have a barn or similar
#173
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So quick summary, based on your cash position and target, Keep It Simple.
Standard EJ257 short block, original heads, new oil pump, head gaskets, cambelt, tensioner, few other consumables, but that should get you back running with a different car to what you have now.
Go speak to a local farmer, be polite, and offer some cash, and they will most likely have a spare place for a car.
Steven
(being a farmers son has its advantages )
Standard EJ257 short block, original heads, new oil pump, head gaskets, cambelt, tensioner, few other consumables, but that should get you back running with a different car to what you have now.
Go speak to a local farmer, be polite, and offer some cash, and they will most likely have a spare place for a car.
Steven
(being a farmers son has its advantages )
#174
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
So quick summary, based on your cash position and target, Keep It Simple.
Standard EJ257 short block, original heads, new oil pump, head gaskets, cambelt, tensioner, few other consumables, but that should get you back running with a different car to what you have now.
Go speak to a local farmer, be polite, and offer some cash, and they will most likely have a spare place for a car.
Steven
(being a farmers son has its advantages )
Standard EJ257 short block, original heads, new oil pump, head gaskets, cambelt, tensioner, few other consumables, but that should get you back running with a different car to what you have now.
Go speak to a local farmer, be polite, and offer some cash, and they will most likely have a spare place for a car.
Steven
(being a farmers son has its advantages )
#175
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Newbie DIY build
One other question if I may for all the self builders amongst you.
now I know this is like opening a can of worms probably but I have no experience of rebuilding an engine so is there a 'Scooby Engines for Dummies' guide someody coulf point me too, dont suspect they would do a haynes manual for the EJ257 so wheres the best point to start learning
its not like i dont have time on my hands
Cheers Guys
now I know this is like opening a can of worms probably but I have no experience of rebuilding an engine so is there a 'Scooby Engines for Dummies' guide someody coulf point me too, dont suspect they would do a haynes manual for the EJ257 so wheres the best point to start learning
its not like i dont have time on my hands
Cheers Guys
Last edited by *smiles*; 15 November 2006 at 10:25 PM.
#177
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
by all accounts there is supposed to be a good cd available via fleebay for something like £5, although i have never seen it.
#178
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Everything is pretty much bolt off/bolt on, but you need to make sure you get the torque settings and seal the areas that need sealed. All new gaskets are a must IMHO. Too many people reuse old gaskets and wonder why they leak.
#179
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I guess it isnt rocket science
Originally Posted by drb5
....and seal the areas that need sealed.....
when quizzed that the 10 million and 1p was a strange amount, he said ....
1p for the chalk 'X' Mark, and 10 million pounds for knowing where to put it