build 2.33
16 October 2006, 08:33 AM
#61
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Graham, stick with the 20g, it should work fine, and offer as you say "an in between statements" on the 2.33.
I suspect it will run out of puff higher up, but then you want the power/torque lower down, so it should be ok.
If it doesnt, then look at changing it.
I suspect it will run out of puff higher up, but then you want the power/torque lower down, so it should be ok.
If it doesnt, then look at changing it.
16 October 2006, 12:02 PM
#63
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Nice garrett by the looks of that.
Graham stick with the 20G for now, then change if you think its not quite right. IMHO, for your purpose it will be ok.
Graham stick with the 20G for now, then change if you think its not quite right. IMHO, for your purpose it will be ok.
Last edited by P20SPD; 16 October 2006 at 12:44 PM.
16 October 2006, 12:49 PM
#64
Great. Feel a bit calmer now!
I realy just want to change the short engine to 2.33, keep all the other parts off the 2 litre i now have and map it to give a full mid range.
There is nothing to be gained in a real hill climb competition from a 550bhp peaky engine except being slow.
If more is needed then it will be a twisted turbo of some sort, but that will be 2008!
Thanks for all the replies as ever. I am sure there are several walking about in this fog with me; but it is getting clearer!
Graham
I realy just want to change the short engine to 2.33, keep all the other parts off the 2 litre i now have and map it to give a full mid range.
There is nothing to be gained in a real hill climb competition from a 550bhp peaky engine except being slow.
If more is needed then it will be a twisted turbo of some sort, but that will be 2008!
Thanks for all the replies as ever. I am sure there are several walking about in this fog with me; but it is getting clearer!
Graham
16 October 2006, 02:15 PM
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lol yea i know what you mean about fog graham.
My 2.0 went bye bye and i had a decision to make with where i was going. Decided in the end to go 2.1 cdb using 2.5 litre crank and 2.0 pistons. My car is also a 20g with sti3 heads so will be interesting to see who can make the most out the 20g.
Looking for as much torque as possible as well.
Stuart
My 2.0 went bye bye and i had a decision to make with where i was going. Decided in the end to go 2.1 cdb using 2.5 litre crank and 2.0 pistons. My car is also a 20g with sti3 heads so will be interesting to see who can make the most out the 20g.
Looking for as much torque as possible as well.
Stuart
16 October 2006, 02:32 PM
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I have also just started a ej22t with 2.5 crank build up there seems to be a lot of this going on right now.
heres a pic of something you wont see very often, my ej22t block factory new never used being broken down for boring and rear thrust gland machining.
any one need brand new unused ej22t pistons ,rods and crank LOL
Jon
heres a pic of something you wont see very often, my ej22t block factory new never used being broken down for boring and rear thrust gland machining.
any one need brand new unused ej22t pistons ,rods and crank LOL
Jon
16 October 2006, 03:40 PM
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You can sell the crank and rods as standard 2 litre ones. The pistons you might as well throw in the bin. My mate Playsatan had a brand new EJ22T from the USA back in feb so yes i have seen one!!!
. I've just purchased a 2.0 CDB and this thread is definitly pointing me in the right direction
16 October 2006, 04:00 PM
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Yep another one interested in 2.5 Engine builds... great thread!
Not heard yet, but has anyone been successful in a reverse inlet manifold for a new age to reduce FMIC piping? Not seen a kit for this yet...
Not heard yet, but has anyone been successful in a reverse inlet manifold for a new age to reduce FMIC piping? Not seen a kit for this yet...
16 October 2006, 05:45 PM
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Not heard yet, but has anyone been successful in a reverse inlet manifold for a new age to reduce FMIC piping? Not seen a kit for this yet...
David
17 October 2006, 02:19 PM
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Most tend to use the standard V9 EJ257 crank, as it is more than capable.
The best, will open up can of worms, and require a decent bank account.
The best, will open up can of worms, and require a decent bank account.
17 October 2006, 03:01 PM
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I've found a site that sells new Billet Steel Crankshaft with 79mm (EJ25) stroke for £730 (don't know if this before or after tax). Is that good? Or is Billet Steel not worth the money?
17 October 2006, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
Most tend to use the standard V9 EJ257 crank, as it is more than capable.
The best, will open up can of worms, and require a decent bank account.
The best, will open up can of worms, and require a decent bank account.
What exactly has to be done to the ej257 crank to fit the phase one 2.0 closed deck block, or would you modify the block rather then the crank ?
Renno
17 October 2006, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by WRX RCY
I've found a site that sells new Billet Steel Crankshaft with 79mm (EJ25) stroke for £730 (don't know if this before or after tax). Is that good? Or is Billet Steel not worth the money?
Originally Posted by renno rannes
What exactly has to be done to the ej257 crank to fit the phase one 2.0 closed deck block, or would you modify the block rather then the crank ?
Renno
Renno
17 October 2006, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
TBH its not worth it. There are several 560+ scoobs out there running standard ej257 cranks.
As said earlier by stluciascooby, you alter the block.
As said earlier by stluciascooby, you alter the block.
17 October 2006, 05:55 PM
#81
At this rate we could do a group buy with Lateral there are so many 2.33 on the go.
Get my CDB tomorrow. ( x 10*6)
That crank is cheaper than I thought. I think RCM sell the 'right' bearings too?
Can't help but think it is best to buy all you need from one shop?
Crank/beargs/pistons/rods/pump/modine/gaskets/sealant.
I know Lateral will do the crank thrust bearing mod exchange.
A set of matched 550cc injectors (real flow 600+?) would be nice too.
That just leaves the bad bit; sleeve/bore/finish to 2.33. Scared to ask approx cost of that bit....
I think Mark could do a good job here:
You supply the CDB, and he sells all the above, inc machining for DIY assy.
I for one would feel better about that.
Food for thought. I will not be doing this yet!
Graham
Get my CDB tomorrow. (
x 10*6)That crank is cheaper than I thought. I think RCM sell the 'right' bearings too?
Can't help but think it is best to buy all you need from one shop?
Crank/beargs/pistons/rods/pump/modine/gaskets/sealant.
I know Lateral will do the crank thrust bearing mod exchange.
A set of matched 550cc injectors (real flow 600+?) would be nice too.
That just leaves the bad bit; sleeve/bore/finish to 2.33. Scared to ask approx cost of that bit....
I think Mark could do a good job here:
You supply the CDB, and he sells all the above, inc machining for DIY assy.
I for one would feel better about that.
Food for thought. I will not be doing this yet!
Graham
Last edited by 911; 17 October 2006 at 05:57 PM.
17 October 2006, 11:55 PM
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Steven, didn't see anything on their website re rotated manifolds? Might have to drop them a line...
David, the tight bends in the piping, do you think this would disrupt the flow into the TB at higher boost/flow rates?
David, the tight bends in the piping, do you think this would disrupt the flow into the TB at higher boost/flow rates?
18 October 2006, 10:44 AM
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I spoke to Mark about forged 2.33 components, the price was surprisingly low and was all off the shelf/in stock.
(He just needs to update the website maybe, when he gets 5 minutes
)
(He just needs to update the website maybe, when he gets 5 minutes
)
18 October 2006, 04:20 PM
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Graham,
If you ask mark nicely he may do a GB price, but I suspect his prices are allready pretty good..
but if you do start a GB price from mark, I may be interested in a set of stroker rods & pistons + a bearing set
If you ask mark nicely he may do a GB price, but I suspect his prices are allready pretty good..
but if you do start a GB price from mark, I may be interested in a set of stroker rods & pistons + a bearing set