build 2.33
 

since my ej257 gave up ive decided to build a 2.33 whats the best way to go about it ?

cheers david

2 litre closed ceck block re-linered to accept 97mm stroker pistons.
1 set of new forged Wiseco stroker pistons.
1 set of forged PAR rods
1 new Subaru 2.5 STi crank
1 set of new ACL main & shell bearings
1 engine gasket set
1 pair of headgaskets

All the above parts you need are here.... now discounted ;)

https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...arts-sale.html

add to that lot....

RCM modified oil pump.
Your choice of heads (some require more work than others)

and away you go........

Bigger turbos can be added at a later date, depends on your goals :)

simbo is your crank salvagable?

If so would be cost effective to re liner your block?

not sure if the crank is salvagable yet might pull the engine out at the weekend

axis dont supply the 2.33 now

they do if you can find Ron a EJ22T donor

EJ22T blocks fetch over £800 on there own if you can find one ;)

2.33
 

So what target are you thinking about. Rotated turbo etc etc ?

Renno

Aye perhaps over here. Check out nasioc and there they go for far less than that.

they can be built using a closed deck 2.0 as mine is..

Contact Mark @ Lateral Performance and he will sort you out :)

what would be the stronger engine relinered 20cdb or 2.2 cdb ? looks like the 20cdb will be £650 + vat to reline to a 2.2 . so not that far short or the £800 for the ej22t block

cheers david

2.0 is stronger

Or should I say it was AndyF that hinted at that before anyone goes off on one. (only down to liner thickness I believe)

I have used the same std EJ22 block for the past 3 seasons so would argue that it is strong enough for most applications.
A linered 2.0 CDB will also be more than up to the job.

Andy

Sorry to drag all this up again:

If a simple guy like me built a 2.33 as suggested above, 2 litre, bored/linered to suit, forged pistons and good rods/hardware, plus stock Sti v3 heads/cams, all the Apexi/headers and 20g/sports cat in a 3'' through system, straight V max.

What levels of torque would be guessed at and at what rpm?

No fancy build-up preps, no cc'ing of the heads/flow etc just a mecanno job.

Graham.

Graham, i would guess it would be somewhere near the 400ftlb mark probably in the 4000 range. (no calcs there, just a reasonable guesstimate)

Why not consider stroking a 2.0l to a 2.16 as a cheaper alternative to the 2.33?

Which crank is that Steven?
With Conrad selling the 2 CDB's at the mo then the 2.2 (2.16?) is attactive (and for me intesting) to build-up as a tough forged piston/PAr rods short engine for later on.

But what torque again on the spec I have do you estimate.
Thanks, Graham

you will still need a 2.5ltr crank and custom stroker pistons

EJ257 crank as steve suggests. Not sure on torque, certainly more than you have now. Plus it will still be able to rev like a bastid which will suit your gearing.

It equates tyo 2.16 but most refer to it as a 2.2. The one i am aware of is much cheaper than the JUN 2.2 stroker kit. Would com ewith crank, bearings, rods, pistons, rings.

I'm wrecking this thread, sorry to Simbo.

Will start a new question to continue this a bit more.

Thanks as ever for the advice.
Graham

its ok need as much advice as i can

Do the 2.33's have the same headgasket issue as 2.5's do?

What kind of boost will a 2.33 run without HG's blowing their balls?

Regards,
Shaun.

Shaun,

Do you want to know what boost, or what power ? because it will also depend on what turbo.

There are 2.35lt cars running well over 600bhp, and over 2 bar of boost without head gasket issues, and to be fair, I think Andy is the only person I know of, who has reached the limits, due to power/boost/ with a touch of nitrous for good measure !

But then again, I know of many 2.5lt, 450bhp + engines that have been running quite happily without head gasket issues.

I think dett' is the main cause of 2.5lt head gasket failure.


Mark.

Thanks Simbo, then best it is all 'together'.
Graham
:D

As I see it there are 2 routes to go on a revvy high torque Impreza:
1
2 litre closed deck block, bored (using stock liners?) to '2.2' litre conversion
Buy a '2.2' kit of forged internals and add my Sti v3 heads and ancillaries.
or
Buy the crank/pistons etc from known first class sources like Lateral.

I know SMG do machining, but need a contact detail please.

2
Go the whole hog and punch a CDB to 2.33
I think this means new liners and m/c'ing them to suit.

In all this I am after a very torquey/revvy hill climb engine which will use the attributes of my 20g/apexi etc ancillaries.
I hope the extra cc's will boost the 20g and take a touch of the lagg out and give boost at lower rpm.


In all this, are the scale of charges about right?

1
Pistons £600 with rings
2
SMG 2.33 work £1500
SMG '2.2' work £ 500 (if m/c'ing stock liners)
3
New crank £600
Bearings £150
Rods £600

I understand there are a zillion other parts, but i want to build up a pile of parts over 2007 for a 07 Xmas build, as this Xmas is the trans/diffs.wheels bit.

Am I on the right track within reason?

Graham

Mark,

As you say, getting 600bhp out of a 2.5ltr is not a problem without blowing HG's..... it just takes a suitable turbo to supply that power at sub 2bar boost. :)

My questions was really related to specifically how much boost a 2.33 was capable of taking before the heads lift, as I thought 2.33's were much less likely to do this than a 2.5 say..... or am I barking up the wrong tree?

For arguments sake, could I say a GT30 and GT35 on a 2.33.

Regards,
Shaun.

Graham,

As a guide for 2.122cc stroker parts, you're looking at circa £500.00 + vat for a pre'd 2.0lt CDB (converted to take a phase 2 crank, bored & honed to match pistons), and from circa £1750.00 + vat for a stroker kit (rods, pistons, crank, bearings).

Shaun,

TBH, the only person I know who's pushed a 2.35lt to a point where the heads lift purely due to the power/ boost, is Andy, and he runs circa 2.2bar, on methanol, and nitrous.

I think you could run circa 2.2bar without lifting the heads, but you may need to drop that back with nitrous, depending on the shot.

What I don't understand, is what is the goal, running Xbar of boost, or achieving xxxbhp ?

As a benchmark, my 2.35lt runs about 1.8bar on a hybrid GT3542, on Esso 97, & 15% methanol. I estimate it has circa 600bhp.


Mark.

Mark,

Quantifying what boost was acceptable for a given engine platform. In the good old days of the cossie, nothing was frowned upon throwing 36psi at a 2ltr with a WRC head gasket or coopers ring set... showing no sign of HG failure with various turbo's. My mind set was on those applications, but if your achieving circa 600bhp at 1.8 then such a comparison is not an issue. :)

Would I be right in suggesting that if you need to run more than 2bar on a Suabru engine to reach a power figure, it *could* suggest you are using the wrong turbo (not including Andy.F's creation)? If thats the case then I could also consider a 2.5ltr as well as the 2.33, but just ensure the correct turbo is speced for the desired BHP to run at approx 1.8bar peak/held etc.

Regards,
Shaun.

Shaun,

I'm not a Cossy expert, but IIRC, max RPM was circa 6500 ?

There is a very big difference in how much power you can achieve, on a given capacity engine, at given RPM.

As an example, assuming the engine had the supporting mod's, if we take 500bhp as a target on a 2.0lt, at 6500rpm, you would need circa 2.3bar boost, however, if you were able to achieve power at 7500rpm, you would only need circa 1.85bar boost.

With the GT series/hybrid versions, on a 2.35/2.5lt, you just don't need to run mega high boost to achieve 500bhp +.


Mark.