Bare shell rebuild project with 500 bhp
#123
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sorry i,ve not posted for a bit , basically the misses is due with are second baby so all my plans have gone out of the window.
so i now have to tone the project down a bit . looking at fitting the 6 speeder still with all whiteline gear newage dash and loom running avcs in the classic as i have alll the parts already
just sent my gearbox to david at api for a clean over and new gaskets etc
all the running gear is being powder coated . and bolts polished (nickel) .
just bought some wr1 heads to hopefully fit a crawford bottm end ej257 i,m looking at . as it seems a block and pistons over here is the same as a fully built crawford engine with rods and bearings aswell
will post some pics once the parts arrive
so i now have to tone the project down a bit . looking at fitting the 6 speeder still with all whiteline gear newage dash and loom running avcs in the classic as i have alll the parts already
just sent my gearbox to david at api for a clean over and new gaskets etc
all the running gear is being powder coated . and bolts polished (nickel) .
just bought some wr1 heads to hopefully fit a crawford bottm end ej257 i,m looking at . as it seems a block and pistons over here is the same as a fully built crawford engine with rods and bearings aswell
will post some pics once the parts arrive
#125
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less than £2000 inc delivery and vat but not customs
but i,m hoping my little scam will get me away with this otherwise an extra £200 ish
but thats still cheap for a engine quoted by crawford to run at 8.1.1 compression at 1.5 to 1.8 bar all day everyday with a gt30
but i,m hoping my little scam will get me away with this otherwise an extra £200 ish
but thats still cheap for a engine quoted by crawford to run at 8.1.1 compression at 1.5 to 1.8 bar all day everyday with a gt30
#127
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The guy who works on my subaru doesnt like the spec on the engine
and has prompted me to go with the axis engine with pauter rods and cp pistons but all depends on the price really , but after a few emails i,ve received i think i,ll stay well clear of the crawford engines .
cheers paul
and has prompted me to go with the axis engine with pauter rods and cp pistons but all depends on the price really , but after a few emails i,ve received i think i,ll stay well clear of the crawford engines .
cheers paul
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No problem.
My honest opinion is that you will often get a technically better engine built in the UK, with better comeback and a more complete service. I agree that you may pay a little more, but it pays to find out exactly what's going into your engine, everything is not always as it seems.
Or if you fancy it, build one yourself, it can be very satisfying and if you're methodical and patient, very reliable.
Paul
My honest opinion is that you will often get a technically better engine built in the UK, with better comeback and a more complete service. I agree that you may pay a little more, but it pays to find out exactly what's going into your engine, everything is not always as it seems.
Or if you fancy it, build one yourself, it can be very satisfying and if you're methodical and patient, very reliable.
Paul
#129
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basically paul its all down to price i would love to spend time and money building a a perfect engine but finances have changed
plus i need the car ready for May as the misses will be getting big by then , and a company van wont suit plus i would like to do scoobyshootout
plus i need the car ready for May as the misses will be getting big by then , and a company van wont suit plus i would like to do scoobyshootout
#131
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I can understand the price aspect, Ron's stage 4 motor is good value, but having stripped one I do worry about the bearings. The Stage 4.5 motor is representative of what you can get in the UK pricewise.
#132
I agree with Paul up to a stage 3 they are good value for money. I think its more to do with the exchange rate than anything else.
If I was looking for a track engine and money was not an issue I would pick UK builder also because of the quicker turn-around.
Paul has Subaru UK's pricing policy changed at all recently? I wonder if they had reacted to the increased numbers of engine imports coming from the USA
Mark A
If I was looking for a track engine and money was not an issue I would pick UK builder also because of the quicker turn-around.
Paul has Subaru UK's pricing policy changed at all recently? I wonder if they had reacted to the increased numbers of engine imports coming from the USA
Mark A
#134
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I don't think Subaru, or IM to be precise are interested in selling short engines for profit, just to support the dealer network. Seeing as the 2.5 platform has only been out in limited numbers, (starting with the Forester xt) there aren't going to be many that need to be replaced.
It's more a case of specific dealers in the US selling for a pitifully small profit margin rather than the UK being very expensive.
Paul
It's more a case of specific dealers in the US selling for a pitifully small profit margin rather than the UK being very expensive.
Paul
I agree with Paul up to a stage 3 they are good value for money. I think its more to do with the exchange rate than anything else.
If I was looking for a track engine and money was not an issue I would pick UK builder also because of the quicker turn-around.
Paul has Subaru UK's pricing policy changed at all recently? I wonder if they had reacted to the increased numbers of engine imports coming from the USA
Mark A
If I was looking for a track engine and money was not an issue I would pick UK builder also because of the quicker turn-around.
Paul has Subaru UK's pricing policy changed at all recently? I wonder if they had reacted to the increased numbers of engine imports coming from the USA
Mark A
#135
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some more parts i,ve bought
strut braces, rear diff kit, and a kartboy quickshift fot the 6 speeder .
also got all my running gear back which is powder coated blue and silver 8) and just waitng for my chromed bolts so i can start putting it back together .
strut braces, rear diff kit, and a kartboy quickshift fot the 6 speeder .
also got all my running gear back which is powder coated blue and silver 8) and just waitng for my chromed bolts so i can start putting it back together .
#136
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bit peed of at the moment as the car seemed to be getting nowhere so i,ve booked a week of work :shock:
first job is to sort the loom out ,lighten it and get rid of what is not needed :twisted:
second job prep the inside of the shell and spreay it ready for rebuilding
i have pulled out the airbag wiring
the electric mirrors
the alarm system
intercooler spray
maf wiring
air con wiring
heres how much came of it
heres the rear loom preped and ready to fit
and heres the main loom stripped ready for re-looming
first job is to sort the loom out ,lighten it and get rid of what is not needed :twisted:
second job prep the inside of the shell and spreay it ready for rebuilding
i have pulled out the airbag wiring
the electric mirrors
the alarm system
intercooler spray
maf wiring
air con wiring
heres how much came of it
heres the rear loom preped and ready to fit
and heres the main loom stripped ready for re-looming
#139
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graham i was hoping to have it ready for scooby shootout thats why i,m getting stuck into it now i should know by the end of the month if its gonna be ready.
most of the parts have been bought now , just need some decent suspension and waiting for my gearbox back from api .
just ordered a bombproof 2.5 with liners and billet crankshaft etc but funds are short for the head work so they will stay standard for now apart from a bit of porting and polishing .
will post some pics of the loom when its ready .
most of the parts have been bought now , just need some decent suspension and waiting for my gearbox back from api .
just ordered a bombproof 2.5 with liners and billet crankshaft etc but funds are short for the head work so they will stay standard for now apart from a bit of porting and polishing .
will post some pics of the loom when its ready .
#142
Surely you need to open the chambers to match the 2,5 bores? That must be more important than the polishing?
I'm sure your speed at doing things will win especially if you have your 'fast mate' with you!
Keep at it!
Graham
I'm sure your speed at doing things will win especially if you have your 'fast mate' with you!
Keep at it!
Graham
#143
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i have 2 sets of avcs heads graham a 2.5 set and a wr1 set dont think there is much diffence nothing a bit of porting wont fix ,unfortunately my nephew can,t help this week so i,m on my own .
btw
#145
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A 2.0L CBD relinered to 2.5?
What bore and stroke? and who did the work?
Sorry for so many questions but there is more than a few of us thinking about doing 'bullet proof' 2.5's at the moment!
Cheers
Dan.
What bore and stroke? and who did the work?
Sorry for so many questions but there is more than a few of us thinking about doing 'bullet proof' 2.5's at the moment!
Cheers
Dan.
#146
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I have done the loom thing.
If I were doing it again, I would make a loom from scratch, i seriously would.
From an RA loom, (which has no airbag or ABS wiring) I have now stripped about 8kg of wire. There is more coming out, although i have rerouted much of the engine bay wiring to remove as much as possible, I have also removed all heater and fan wiring.
It is the absolute bitch of all jobs, and makes the seam welding look like a walk in the park.
If I were doing it again, I would make tails from all the lights etc, maybe use the interior loom wires as they are kind of okay. But just get a few 8 way fuse holders, some relay holders and make much of the loom from scratch, but use a lot of the ECU wiring, as that mostly goes just between engine and ECU.
Anyway, that's my experience, and I am still very much in the learning stage when it comes to wiring an entire car!
Cheers
Paul
If I were doing it again, I would make a loom from scratch, i seriously would.
From an RA loom, (which has no airbag or ABS wiring) I have now stripped about 8kg of wire. There is more coming out, although i have rerouted much of the engine bay wiring to remove as much as possible, I have also removed all heater and fan wiring.
It is the absolute bitch of all jobs, and makes the seam welding look like a walk in the park.
If I were doing it again, I would make tails from all the lights etc, maybe use the interior loom wires as they are kind of okay. But just get a few 8 way fuse holders, some relay holders and make much of the loom from scratch, but use a lot of the ECU wiring, as that mostly goes just between engine and ECU.
Anyway, that's my experience, and I am still very much in the learning stage when it comes to wiring an entire car!
Cheers
Paul
#147
fwiw:
I have wired 2 hot rods from zero, simple cars mind, but what a pig.
The worst part of a 'custom loom' are all the matching connectors you need.
However, you do focus on simplification as a result so things come out light.
Very time consuming, and tedious. Doubt i would have the patience today.
Graham
I have wired 2 hot rods from zero, simple cars mind, but what a pig.
The worst part of a 'custom loom' are all the matching connectors you need.
However, you do focus on simplification as a result so things come out light.
Very time consuming, and tedious. Doubt i would have the patience today.
Graham
#149
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I have done the loom thing.
If I were doing it again, I would make a loom from scratch, i seriously would.
From an RA loom, (which has no airbag or ABS wiring) I have now stripped about 8kg of wire. There is more coming out, although i have rerouted much of the engine bay wiring to remove as much as possible, I have also removed all heater and fan wiring.
It is the absolute bitch of all jobs, and makes the seam welding look like a walk in the park.
If I were doing it again, I would make tails from all the lights etc, maybe use the interior loom wires as they are kind of okay. But just get a few 8 way fuse holders, some relay holders and make much of the loom from scratch, but use a lot of the ECU wiring, as that mostly goes just between engine and ECU.
Anyway, that's my experience, and I am still very much in the learning stage when it comes to wiring an entire car!
Cheers
Paul
If I were doing it again, I would make a loom from scratch, i seriously would.
From an RA loom, (which has no airbag or ABS wiring) I have now stripped about 8kg of wire. There is more coming out, although i have rerouted much of the engine bay wiring to remove as much as possible, I have also removed all heater and fan wiring.
It is the absolute bitch of all jobs, and makes the seam welding look like a walk in the park.
If I were doing it again, I would make tails from all the lights etc, maybe use the interior loom wires as they are kind of okay. But just get a few 8 way fuse holders, some relay holders and make much of the loom from scratch, but use a lot of the ECU wiring, as that mostly goes just between engine and ECU.
Anyway, that's my experience, and I am still very much in the learning stage when it comes to wiring an entire car!
Cheers
Paul
The best way to do it as you said is to make the loom from scratch but what a job that would be It would have to be a all out rally car / drag car for me to get that serious on the wiring
lets hope i can make the newage dash fit after all that work
#150
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I've got the loom to do for mine, From scratch
Buy decent cables, collect connectors and plan it properly (on paper) and it could be easier than modifiying std looms. Especially when Im not using a subaru ECU
David
Buy decent cables, collect connectors and plan it properly (on paper) and it could be easier than modifiying std looms. Especially when Im not using a subaru ECU
David