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Old May 2, 2006 | 11:40 AM
  #31  
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Terry, like Andy says junk the purge pipework/valve and route the fuel tank vent to the chassis rail like i did here...



It's the pipe with the NRV in it to the left of the fuel filter. The NRV usually sits right beside the carbon canister but i shortened mine right back for neatness. Mine doesn't have the pipe from the air inlet.

Mark, the only downside it heat rises and it's taking a reading from the lower portion of TB flow. Theoretically cooler air but i'm sure the difference would be negligable. It'd be nice to measure temperature difference across the cooler like Kev is though.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #32  
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Got lazy over the weekend with Emmas birthday celebrations taking precedence over the car.

Butchered the header tank/PS pipe support bracket to clear the O/S rail. Fair old chance this will get binned altogether or at least the centre section cut out as there's so little metal left it's doing feckall now.



This carnage is what's required to remove the drinks holder (really!).



ACT gauge mounting (no nice spot beside the 'Bright' switch like on a UK).





Spotted a set of these for £150 yesterday morning.



Haggled to £120, drove 200 miles to collect them and then spotted this...



Seller seemed genuine and after driving so far i had to give him the benefit of the doubt. In then end i took them away for £45. Away to see about getting the rim repaired, few final checks on the car and then if all's well hopefully get the AFR's checked out before heading offshore tomorrow.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:03 PM
  #33  
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hi,

you bought rims and tires for £120? what's the tire size?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #34  
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Carl,

Is the ACT gauge for the temp sensor in the inlet manifold?

Where from and how much?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:52 PM
  #35  
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cmpequeno, tyres are 215/40 R17 and they cost £45 for three. One bent one thrown in for nothing.

Wayne, the gauge came from Nomad but i think it's the same as the one in the Group Buy forum right now.

Turriff Tyres are on the case with straightening out the alloy. They seem to think the crack may get worse (should get smaller IMO) but hopefully it'll be weldable after.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Carl Davey
Terry, like Andy says junk the purge pipework/valve and route the fuel tank vent to the chassis rail like i did here...

http://www.******.co.uk/scooby/cooli...26-04-06/7.jpg

It's the pipe with the NRV in it to the left of the fuel filter. The NRV usually sits right beside the carbon canister but i shortened mine right back for neatness. Mine doesn't have the pipe from the air inlet.

Mark, the only downside it heat rises and it's taking a reading from the lower portion of TB flow. Theoretically cooler air but i'm sure the difference would be negligable. It'd be nice to measure temperature difference across the cooler like Kev is though.
I didn't bother putting the NRV on the end of the pipe, just un plugged it and shoved it in the chassis.

I pressume the NRV is positioned to allow suction INTO the tank but NON RETURN of vapours OUT ??

Andy
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Old May 3, 2006 | 04:38 PM
  #37  
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just spotted this one in the manifold might be my next point of reading but it would have to be virtually next to the injectors i think to get anything useful from it and i'm not sure how to achieve that i'll post a pic of my temp guage later, just about fits where my stereo goes
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Old May 3, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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good thread and i am sure it will get very intresting.

all these pics, but not one of the damage you done to yourself

mark
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Old May 3, 2006 | 07:43 PM
  #39  
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Next to the injectors Kev? You'd need four surely?

AFRs checked out ok courtesy of Russ at Wallace Performance. Really need to get myself a wideband. Offshore now so testing starts in earnest next time home.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 06:23 AM
  #40  
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Try moving to Aberdeen, oh, you already do!! Whats the big worry, its always cold and wet here. The amount of puddles and snow you will be running into during the year should keep things pretty cool.
Best regards.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 10:52 AM
  #41  
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Carl - you can always borrow my W/B if you need to?

Russell ( home today)
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #42  
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whats the latest?
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Carl, only just spotted this thread Andy is right re the smoothing of the air flow path. I slimmed the TB more than him but I wasn't brave enough to do the port matching of the head while the engine was in place

I can't see why the temp would be that much difference from the inlet, pre TB to the plenum post TB, once air is flowing.

My heat mods are: manifold spacers, header tank conduction de-couple, taller scoop, airbox feed and engine bay segregation, STI8 TMIC, DP wrap, OEM heat shielding left in place on Turbo, scoop under tray cut out for turbo and sealing for TMIC. There’s probably more but I can’t think about them now.

I didn’t do comparative measuring to see individual gains so your trial will be informative. The only problem I can see is that as you are conducting tests on different days then the ambient will differ too meaning results won’t be strictly comparable e.g. during tests initially when ambient was IIRC 15C – 20C the temps would rise to 50C+ at standstill then tumble very quickly to +3C above ambient but a test recently showed that the same didn’t happen when ambients were 35C+ as the temps took 5 x as long to fall and then settled at +10C above ambient! Beware!

F
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #44  
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Ok, the house needed more work than i imagined... we now have a lawn!

Anyway, when i've had a chance i've been in the car getting used to how the charge temperature gauge displays readings under various circumstances. Now that i have done this i've decided my initial testing route and load parameters are rubbish and i can simplify things a great deal. Short term the plan is to get some consistent base data together before gathering a few mods and carrying out back to back tests on them. The idea was always to do this in order of cost so it will probably begin with an intercooler tilt kit then splitter. I also want to carry out some trials with the IC water spray already fitted to the car as i believe this makes more difference than i had previously imagined. Floyd, i had planned to log ambients and it will be interesting to see how they affect the time it takes to cool the car back down after suffering heat soak etc.

Car-wise at the beginning of the month it was run on two different rolling roads within the space of 2 days. The first was an SIDC event on a Dyno Dynamics RR where it made 302.5bhp. The second was on a Dastek RR where it made 283.2bhp. The only differences being the first run was done with IC water spray, a closed bonnet and in 3rd gear while the second run was done in fourth minus the spray. The fourth gear run was partially my fault as one of the F1's developed a bulge in between the runs and it was deemed safer to run it in a higher gear.

One big positive is the fact the first RR Operator thought the car was mapped it was fuelling so well. Indeed, the second run in fourth gear showed it running a little too lean but i now have a Tech Edge to install (once i've finished soldering it together) so will be able to see for myself.

I've been doing some modest testing on head tank insulation over the past week. To provide as controlled an environment as possible the car was parked in the garage and allowed to run from cold for 20mins. Temperatures were then measured around the tank mounting points on the inlet manifold over a 5 minute period. Head tank temperature was also measured during this period.

There is enormous room for error in the results but they do provided some form of an idea as to how worthwhile it is attempting to insulate the manifold from the head tank. Four tests were carried out.

1. No Insulation



2. 1 Pair Tufnol Washers



3. 2 Pairs Tufnol Washers



4. Head Tank Mounted Remotely On GF Nylon 66 Spacers



Results as per the chart below:



I see the results as being a little inconclusive although there does appear to be a 5-10 degree saving in manifold temperature by insulation. I think the benefits are more from the reduced rate of heat transfer, i.e. the heat will get to the manifold eventually, it's just a case of how long it takes to get there. Becuase of this i plan to carry out the tests again measuring the rate of heat transfer from the tank to the manifold with each setup, recording temperatures every minute or so over the same 20 minute period from cold-start-up.
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 02:02 PM
  #45  
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Oh yeah, and the wheels now look like this...



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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #46  
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Carl,

Very interesting, how did you take the readings/what with, watching with great interest.

John

Ps top job on the wheels
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Old Jul 29, 2006 | 02:24 PM
  #47  
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One of these John, Fluke 62.

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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 07:40 PM
  #48  
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Carl, Where did you get the spacers (I guess you made them, so where did the raw material come from?).

Also, is the header tank only supported by these two now, or have you fixed up something on the lower mount ?

Will you be testing out the 't/b coolant bypass' mod too - or have you done this already ?

I've been doing some experiments too, but not documenting the results - hence no posts.... I just kitted the underside of the standard (02STIUK) air-intake scoop (at the front, above the grill) out with heat insulation/reflective material. It seems to slow the rise in temperature of the air coming in when the car is stopped...(i.e was reaching 60C within a few minutes, no goes to around 40C)

Cheers,

Mark
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #49  
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Mark,

The tank spacers were done as part of a trial, they're the same GF Nylon 66 i had some manifold spacers made from a while back. I pretty much abondoned the lower mount when i fitted the rails as they didn't agree with it...





I've made a note to include the TB + IACV coolant bypass mod yes. I had also planned on experiementing with the tape on the inlet tract, specifically the OEM inlet pipe where it runs under the manifold.

On a different note i'm just back from a quick spin after fitting some parts to insulate the fuel rails from the manifold. The adaptor plate is now made from GFN66 and i've cut some inserts for the counter-bored mounting bolt holes too. Took the car on a quick 10-15 minute run, got back and popped the bonnet and the rails are cool to the touch. A stark difference having seen temps of up to 70 degrees previously. Going on a longer run in a minute to try and further quantify things.
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:30 AM
  #50  
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Any more progress on this, or is it on a different thread now? Looks like I might have my inlet manifold off whilst installing a new inlet pipe, so need to figure out what are the might-as-well jobs that need doing at the same time. Looks like the header tank isolation is a good idea, how did the inlet manifold spacers work out in terms of temperature drop for the manifold?
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 08:35 AM
  #51  
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A year on... any more results?
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 01:08 PM
  #52  
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Update? Well i now have a pretty damn cool-running Impreza.

Unfortunately i didn't have time to fully evaluate each modification like i had hoped. That and the fact i am not allowed to talk about some of the most beneficial modifications carried out led to me not updating this thread.

The main area i will be looking at tackling in the future (which i hope to see a significant benefit from) is a filter shield/box for my RCMS filter. Once Samco make me a hose the right shape i can get started...
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 03:19 PM
  #53  
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ssshhhhhh
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