Now, what do I do!!??
12 March 2006, 04:48 PM
#33
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
On the contrary, tortoises can mate - then, up to 4 years later - yes, 4 years!! they can start laying eggs.
They may lay 5 this year, 5 the next, 5 the next all on the back of the same mating many years previously .... if the conditions are right they will lay.
Interesting stuff!!
Pete
They may lay 5 this year, 5 the next, 5 the next all on the back of the same mating many years previously .... if the conditions are right they will lay.
Interesting stuff!!
Pete
12 March 2006, 08:14 PM
#36
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by andyr
Personally I'd ask the question on a car enthusiasts bulletin board instead of looking for some specialist knowledge (such as a pet shop or tortoise fanciers web bbs !
To *****, the very thought of someone having a wide range of interests is completely alien .......... shame really.
Thanks to all those who have pm'd me with help and advice
Pete
12 March 2006, 08:15 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dpb
Anything to boost that meagre pension of yours...
Bloody hell!!!!!!
Welcome to 'Lewis Heroes in a Half Shell', Tortoises at the best price on the web - group buy for ScoobyNet??
Pete
12 March 2006, 08:20 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Welcome to 'Lewis Heroes in a Half Shell', Tortoises at the best price on the web - group buy for ScoobyNet??
Pete
Pete
12 March 2006, 08:36 PM
#40
On the contrary, tortoises can mate - then, up to 4 years later - yes, 4 years!! they can start laying eggs.
They may lay 5 this year, 5 the next, 5 the next all on the back of the same mating many years previously .... if the conditions are right they will lay.
Interesting stuff!!
HOPE MY MISSUS CANT DO THAT !
Pre snip that is !
They may lay 5 this year, 5 the next, 5 the next all on the back of the same mating many years previously .... if the conditions are right they will lay.
Interesting stuff!!
HOPE MY MISSUS CANT DO THAT !
Pre snip that is !
13 March 2006, 12:29 PM
#42
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Don't the tortoises know best how to take care of the eggs? Maybe a call to the zoo or the RSPCA could give you some accurate advice. Perhaps they are normally left in warm sand or something like that.
Les
Les
13 March 2006, 12:38 PM
#43
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Pete, since you're obviously incapable of using your PC for anything other than waffling on S'net I tried using this popular URL
http://www.google.co.uk
I was able to type in the word
tortoise
and the word
egg
and one of the very first results was this :
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/Inc..._eggs_DMS_.htm
Which has some information you may care to read, digest and possibly act upon, such as
"Although applying principally to the incubation of California desert tortoise eggs, the following suggestions are for all turtle and tortoise eggs in general. Always bear in mind that there is no one method that will assure success and that in some cases an entire clutch of eggs will be infertile and not capable of hatching under even ideal conditions.
Unless the area in which captive tortoises and turtles live is very similar in temperature and soil to that of the natural environment, eggs will rarely hatch if left in the nest. They should be dug up very carefully, the top of each egg marked with a pencil (not a marker; the shells are permeable and the ink is toxic) to guard against turning and jarring, and then placed in an incubator.
Incubators may be anything from the commercial type used for chickens (available at some pet stores, feed stores, or by mail-order) to the homemade variety made from bread boxes, cardboard boxes, styrofoam coolers, small glass aquariums, or even margarine tubs (placed in a warm spot with a few small holes in the lid so oxygen can get in). A light for heat control should be in the incubator, plus a thermometer (either hung on inside wall or placed next to eggs) and, in cases where water or box turtle eggs are being incubated, include a small container of water or wetted-down sphagnum moss for necessary humidity. Eggs incubated without minimal humidity tend to cave in, dry out and not hatch. Most eggs require a small container of water near the eggs, replenished regularly (the water evaporates).
Sand, peat moss or other floor covering may be used, but again this is a matter of personal preference. Some fanciers bury eggs in sand to a depth of an inch or two. Others do not. In 1969 the San Diego Zoo incubated its eggs in sand-filled earthenware crocks, covered with sheets of glass to contain condensed moisture. A hazard to sand is that a newly hatched turtle or tortoise may eat it, become impacted and die. Soft, finely sifted, chemical-free dirt works well for most eggs and won’t tear the yolk sac attached to all new hatchlings for the first few days of life..........."
and the rest
Hope it helps....
http://www.google.co.uk
I was able to type in the word
tortoise
and the word
egg
and one of the very first results was this :
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/Inc..._eggs_DMS_.htm
Which has some information you may care to read, digest and possibly act upon, such as
"Although applying principally to the incubation of California desert tortoise eggs, the following suggestions are for all turtle and tortoise eggs in general. Always bear in mind that there is no one method that will assure success and that in some cases an entire clutch of eggs will be infertile and not capable of hatching under even ideal conditions.
Unless the area in which captive tortoises and turtles live is very similar in temperature and soil to that of the natural environment, eggs will rarely hatch if left in the nest. They should be dug up very carefully, the top of each egg marked with a pencil (not a marker; the shells are permeable and the ink is toxic) to guard against turning and jarring, and then placed in an incubator.
Incubators may be anything from the commercial type used for chickens (available at some pet stores, feed stores, or by mail-order) to the homemade variety made from bread boxes, cardboard boxes, styrofoam coolers, small glass aquariums, or even margarine tubs (placed in a warm spot with a few small holes in the lid so oxygen can get in). A light for heat control should be in the incubator, plus a thermometer (either hung on inside wall or placed next to eggs) and, in cases where water or box turtle eggs are being incubated, include a small container of water or wetted-down sphagnum moss for necessary humidity. Eggs incubated without minimal humidity tend to cave in, dry out and not hatch. Most eggs require a small container of water near the eggs, replenished regularly (the water evaporates).
Sand, peat moss or other floor covering may be used, but again this is a matter of personal preference. Some fanciers bury eggs in sand to a depth of an inch or two. Others do not. In 1969 the San Diego Zoo incubated its eggs in sand-filled earthenware crocks, covered with sheets of glass to contain condensed moisture. A hazard to sand is that a newly hatched turtle or tortoise may eat it, become impacted and die. Soft, finely sifted, chemical-free dirt works well for most eggs and won’t tear the yolk sac attached to all new hatchlings for the first few days of life..........."
and the rest
Hope it helps....
21 May 2006, 06:55 PM
#44
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Well, the eggs started smelling - so they have been dumped 
The male is trying to hump the female at every chance now - we need to keep them seperate as he is bashing into the poor lady all the time!
Pete
The male is trying to hump the female at every chance now - we need to keep them seperate as he is bashing into the poor lady all the time!
Pete
