DIY 450 bhp Classic 2.0L
02 May 2006, 11:06 PM
#123
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Daz, I only post this to help and there maybe a lot that don't agree. Subaru decks are noted for not being true, I gained this information from an engineer that had accurately measured many blocks and had found large discrepancies.
03 May 2006, 01:13 PM
#129
API do a baffled sump on an exchange basis for 120 pounds. The main benefits are to stop the oli flow/oil pick-up being interrupted uinder heavy cornering/breaking/acceleration. the baffles stop the oil moving about so much and keep the oil pick-up submerged in oil.
03 May 2006, 01:26 PM
#130
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Originally Posted by banny sti
API do a baffled sump on an exchange basis for 120 pounds. The main benefits are to stop the oli flow/oil pick-up being interrupted uinder heavy cornering/breaking/acceleration. the baffles stop the oil moving about so much and keep the oil pick-up submerged in oil.
04 May 2006, 01:21 PM
#132
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Can you not grind the larger ones down to fit if that is the right direction.
I believe Paul @ Zen stocks them.
I may have some UK98 shims.. what are the heads? (sorry will read back to see now).
Simon
I believe Paul @ Zen stocks them.
I may have some UK98 shims.. what are the heads? (sorry will read back to see now).
Simon
04 May 2006, 01:40 PM
#134
Simon,
They are STI ver 5 heads. ie the smaller underbucket shims
The shims I need are as follows:
1 x 1.90mm
2 x 1.92mm
1 x 1.93mm
1 x 1.94mm
1 x 1.95mm
1 x 1.96mm
1 x 1.99mm
3 x 2.00mm
Daz
They are STI ver 5 heads. ie the smaller underbucket shims
The shims I need are as follows:
1 x 1.90mm
2 x 1.92mm
1 x 1.93mm
1 x 1.94mm
1 x 1.95mm
1 x 1.96mm
1 x 1.99mm
3 x 2.00mm
Daz
Last edited by dazdavies; 04 May 2006 at 04:13 PM.
04 May 2006, 03:19 PM
#136
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You can either surface grind them Daz, or DIY with some 220 grit wet/dry on a FLAT surface.
Wear a glove (they get hot) trap it under a finger and away you go. keep turning it around and over to ensure flatness and parrallelism.
Will take about 10 mins to take 0.05mm of each shim and you will need a few sheets of wet and dry.
If you are really in the poo, they are very easy to make and i have many high RPM bike racing engines running around with shims i made in.
I have some in a semi built heads that wont be doing anything for a while. I will check the sizes for you but will not be till sunday evening
Wear a glove (they get hot) trap it under a finger and away you go. keep turning it around and over to ensure flatness and parrallelism.
Will take about 10 mins to take 0.05mm of each shim and you will need a few sheets of wet and dry.
If you are really in the poo, they are very easy to make and i have many high RPM bike racing engines running around with shims i made in.
I have some in a semi built heads that wont be doing anything for a while. I will check the sizes for you but will not be till sunday evening
04 May 2006, 04:16 PM
#137
Thanks Mark,
I am slowly coming to terms with the fact that I am going to have to get a wet stone and do the buggers by hand.
Couple more places to try but these buggers are expensive at £7.70 plus the vat each!!!
Fortunatley the shims i have are all too big rather than too small.
Sore hands time again I think!!
Daz
I am slowly coming to terms with the fact that I am going to have to get a wet stone and do the buggers by hand.
Couple more places to try but these buggers are expensive at £7.70 plus the vat each!!!
Fortunatley the shims i have are all too big rather than too small.
Sore hands time again I think!!
Daz
04 May 2006, 04:29 PM
#138
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It takes ages with a wet stone. They are about 58 Hrc (bloody hard) and they just skim on a stone. Wet and dry more effective by far.
Keep an eye on them with the mic as its pretty easy to get them out of parrallel if you are not careful.
Keep an eye on them with the mic as its pretty easy to get them out of parrallel if you are not careful.
04 May 2006, 06:27 PM
#140
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try ashby andersons on whitehall road, just past dragon bridge / the dragon pub they are on the right.
04 May 2006, 10:31 PM
#142
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Originally Posted by p1mark
It takes ages with a wet stone. They are about 58 Hrc (bloody hard) and they just skim on a stone. Wet and dry more effective by far.
Keep an eye on them with the mic as its pretty easy to get them out of parrallel if you are not careful.
Keep an eye on them with the mic as its pretty easy to get them out of parrallel if you are not careful.
I found a few more shims that i can get ground down next door, I'll see if I can get them ground at lunchtime.
Paul
04 May 2006, 10:52 PM
#143
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What grade/type of stone are you using Paul? i have always struggled but sounds though you have something more effective than the ones i have tried.
04 May 2006, 11:04 PM
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dunno, dual grit B&Q special! Probably about 240 and 400 grit respectively.
I would get bored lapping a shim for 10 minutes! If I am really desperate the it's the side of the bench grinder wheel followed by cleanup on stone checking that it remains parallel. ALthough for underbucket shims the parallelism isn't so bad as it's not a running surface.
I would get bored lapping a shim for 10 minutes! If I am really desperate the it's the side of the bench grinder wheel followed by cleanup on stone checking that it remains parallel. ALthough for underbucket shims the parallelism isn't so bad as it's not a running surface.
05 May 2006, 12:42 AM
#145
Originally Posted by Zen Performance
They don't take ages by stone. Or at least not the shims that Daz has, which are the underbucket ones, only 11.5mm in diameter.
I found a few more shims that i can get ground down next door, I'll see if I can get them ground at lunchtime.
Paul
I found a few more shims that i can get ground down next door, I'll see if I can get them ground at lunchtime.
Paul
Mr Complete amatuer (yours trully) got his measurements wrong but in my defence it was partly to blame on a faulty tool bought from halfords. Every place I rang to get shims said that the ones i requested were way to small. Borrowed a mate's digital vernier calipers and my first measurements were completely wrong. Needless to say a few hours and a couple of sore fingers later the heads are now shimmed and all are exactly bang on. I took the measurements of the clearances with the heads on a bench (kitchen worktop). I will double check once the heads are back on and torqued up.
The sizing of the shims was done with a pack of 240 grit wet and dry on a glass table. Sore fingers and very laborious but I am pleased with the results and its another thing I have learned to do since taking this project on.
Now where's that hand cream coz they are bloody sore tonight.
Daz
05 May 2006, 04:58 PM
#146
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Sounds like you didn't read a manual vernier or mic correctly and forgot to add the 0.5mm to the 0.40mm showing on the secondary dial/scale. never mind, all sorted now!
11 May 2006, 07:17 PM
#147
Some good progress over the last week. The engine is now built. Timed up and cam covers on. I am now beginning to look at fueling options. I am going to buy some modified fuel rails with -6 fittings, some insulating manifold spacers, and all the hoses and fittings. I also need to decide on turbo options as I still havent made my mind up. I am basically looking at three:
RCMS Garret IHI Hybrid Ported GT35 VF P20
Turbo Dynamics MD321T
or, and this is a new considerarion. a Garrett GT 3071 in a rotated position with external wastegate.
However I need some opinions on these three choices I need help. Please bare in mind that this car is going to be a 2.0L road car so it has to be fairly drivable although it wont be my daily driver.
Hopefully Andy F will post comment on the above choices as he will be doing the mapping.
I look forward to your responses.
Daz
RCMS Garret IHI Hybrid Ported GT35 VF P20
Turbo Dynamics MD321T
or, and this is a new considerarion. a Garrett GT 3071 in a rotated position with external wastegate.
However I need some opinions on these three choices I need help. Please bare in mind that this car is going to be a 2.0L road car so it has to be fairly drivable although it wont be my daily driver.
Hopefully Andy F will post comment on the above choices as he will be doing the mapping.
I look forward to your responses.
Daz
11 May 2006, 08:00 PM
#148
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Originally Posted by 911
so what are the basic building bricks for a 450 x something 2 liter?
Power is basically Torque x revs, so the greater the torque x a high red line = power.
What is your basic list of bits daz?
graham.
Power is basically Torque x revs, so the greater the torque x a high red line = power.
What is your basic list of bits daz?
graham.
stroker motors give torque simply from the larger displacemnt and higher pressure caused by it...
horsepower sells car, torque wins races...
11 May 2006, 08:22 PM
#149
Utterly agree with the last sentence.
Please accept my physics approach as I feel it is 'generally' true, but agree far from reality as is almost everything I was taught at school/college
Graham
'The best engine is the one that wins'
Please accept my physics approach as I feel it is 'generally' true, but agree far from reality as is almost everything I was taught at school/college
Graham
'The best engine is the one that wins'
the other 2 choices dont really seem worth it to me