dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Hi Shane yes they are mate.

I got them from Zak at Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products

The braided lines and fittings were sourced locally but the two rails were from him here's a pic of mine



If I recal they are £130 but he'll give you £50 back if you send him your standard ones. So £80 for a pair is a bargain and they are excellent quality.

Daz

WRXshaneWRX

iTrader: (1)

thanks daz

Jay Cox

nice

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

I said I wasn't going to do this but I had the offer of a free Rolling road run at an RR local to me today so I thought that I need a bench mark figure before I swap the turbo.

It made 358 bhp and 322 ft/lbs peaking at 5580rpm

This was from a VF28 running 1.5 bar.

Now before the cynics take over some extra info:
My previous run at scoobyclinic before the rebuild was 330 bhp and 298ft lbs. This again was a VF28 turbo but with 440cc injectors,standard top mount, 2.5in decat exhaust system and ECUTEK remap by Andy Forrest.

Today's spec was a little different:
slightly bigger pistons (93mm) with a compression ratio of 8.35:1, bigger injectors (740cc these peaked at 76% duty) parallel fuel rails, SX reg set at 3 bar, front mount intercooler, buddy club 3in exhaust system and an Apexi power FC ECU mapped by Andrew Carr.

You can tell the turbo runs out of legs as the power tails of quite early but overall I am very happy as it proves that the car is spot on and and now ready
to have a big (ish) turbo put on.

Have a few financial things to sort out before this happens but atleast I know that the car is ready for it.

Your comments and thoughts would be appreciated.

Daz

AndrewC

Sheee-it, not bad for a "get you going map". Would've expected more torque though, obvisously too cautious with the fueling and timing midrange

[Edit] Just thought, I did pull some timing due to the misfire.

Which RR was this done on then?

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Just a local one to me. Don't think I have ever seen it mentioned on here.
When I do get the turbo I might organise a scoobynet RR day there.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

did you find what the misfire was in the end?

p1mark

Im thinking that i can sell my turbo when you have finished and advertise it as a "358 BHP VF28"

Main thing is it shows the motor is fit and healthy and you did a good job of the rebuild - So big up for Daz

jim litten

Bodes well for my set up using a 34

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Simon,

The misfire was a bit of sticky ****e on the crankshaft position sensor, it looked like some kind of grease.

Mark,

I hope you didnt mind me RR'ing with your turbo but it was a freebie and I needed a before and after comparison.

If you are selling I'll buy it lol

Jim,

I had a VF34 on my RB5 and it was a lovely turbo, hows yours coming along? Did you get any joy after the faulty tensioner issue?


Daz

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

cool.. glad it was something so simple.

Simon

jim litten

Its coming along a treat, need to get bigger injectors and change boost control (link won't go above 1.5) then it'll be finished, well apart from a six speed. Its definately got more power and torque than the old engine as it'll now squat on its rear and spin the fronts when giving it full boot in third, which it never did before with the LEDAs.


Ish on the tensioner front

p1mark

Stop being a plum and give it back when you have finished with it. Till then give it as much grief as you wish

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Update:

The car is now officially off the road for the winter.

I have a few jobs planned for it so i thought now is the best time to get these done.

Jobs are:

Engine out and spray engine bay:
New clutch whilst I am doing the above.

Clean and repaint various engine components.

Reverse and polish inlet.

New turbo (still havent decided which one of GT30R or MD321T)

Roll cage and spray interior of car.

Suspension and brakes.

Quick release I.C.E Install. For those track 1/4m days I hope to do next year.

I'm out of work and skint so I thought this would be the ideal time to do those pain in the **** non/low cost jobs. Then I'll concentrate on the more expensive ones once i pick up another IT contract.

At the moment I am busy preparing the new garage to do all the work in.

So shall be posting pics and progress soon.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Finally started some more work on it.

I have stripped out the interior and taken out all the factory sound deadining.
Was a complete ball ache of a job but I am happy with the result.



Basically the plan is (when I eventually find more work to pay for it all) is for a roll cage, floor sprayed white with just the two front two seats and some nice foot plates. Thats the interior sorted.

The engine bay is a disgrace so I shall be stripping it completely, taking it back to bare metal where possible and doing a proper respray paint job on it.




Finally the engine itself:
This is going to be tidied up probably repainted. The inlet is getting reversed I am also going to reroute the fuel pipes and generally make it look a bit more professional. I may even add some nice shiny bits like catch can, fuse cover battery cover etc.

I needed a bit of a winter project so here it is:

I'll keep you posted with progress.

Daz

David_Wallis

dont strip the paint out from under the engine bay, just prep existing, otherwise you'll need to re etch prime etc..

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Cheers mate. I'm going to reprime it needs doing its filthy.

David_Wallis

No Prob.

If I hear of any decent work, do you want your details passing on?

terryb

Hi Daz

Glad to see this is coming along.

I've just ordered an MD321T and so should have my built 2 litre up and running early in the New Year. I'll let you know how I get on with it - spec will be very similar to yours, but with standard RA Ltd gearbox (for now).

Cheers

Terry

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...mpionship.html

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

That would be really useful cheers mate,


David, if you could that would be great.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Started getting the Engine bay ready for painting. I have stripped it the best I can but I dont want to start messing around with wiring looms and the like and I am sure as hell not taking the gearbox off again. It wouldn't be a problem if I had a ramp but on the driveway with axle stands this isn't an option.

If I am carefull with how I mask everything up and thoroughly cover what I don't want painting I should be able to do a reasonable job.

The pic below shows the days progress from an engine bay that just had the engine out this morning, nothing else.



Based on the picture (some bare metal is showing) what primer would people suggest I use.
An Ethcing primer or a filler primer. I know very little about paints so need some tips here.

If I have to use etching primer can I use filler primer ontop of that once its dry?

To be honest a perfect finish in the engine bay I am not expecting but as the interior floor and where the rear seats used to be will be painted and I want that to be a decent finish.

Thanks

Daz

samcowrx

Great thread, i have learnt an awful lot from the last hour and a half of reading this thread!, anyway i cant wait to see this totally finished, or it maybe the case of permanent work in progress. i will be keeping my eye on this, as i plan a rebuild soon.

Kenny.S

As Wallis suggested i wouldn't have stripped the existing paint back that far, but it's done now.

I recently had my car painted, including the engine bay, door slams etc. If you look at this link 22B Bulletin Board: Project RA you'll see that i had to take the roof and large parts of the car back to bare metal.
I was fortunate that i knew they bodyshop that were doing the work so they showed me how to prepare everything, basically a crash course in bodywork with them keeping a watchful eye on things.

The bare metal areas were given a few light coats of etch primer, this is then allowed to flash off, basically touch dry but not hard, then 3 coats of filler primer or high build on top of that, by doing it this way you dont need to rub the etch primer down which would be very difficult anyway as it's very thin and you'd be for ever rubbing through it.

I never had a situation where there was some paint left on a panel that was going to be etch primed but asuming it doesnt react i dont think it will but cant say for sure, i dont see why you couldnt put the etch primer then high build down on top of the paint thats left.
The only problem i can see now is getting it all smooth, the engine bay is such an awkward shape flattening down 3 coats of high build will be a very slow and tedious process. Hence why it's advisable to just prep the old paint, spot priming where required and then if your bodyshop are worth their salt they should be able to leave you with a pretty good finish straight off the gun so you dont need to rub it down.

Before you put any primer down if you havent already i would spend some time feathering out all the edges where paint meets bare metal with something like 600grit, the less you ask of the primer filler the less rubbing you'll need to do later.

Hope this helps


Cheers

Kenny

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Very helpful mate, thanks very much

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Engine bay has just been primed ready for painting. Its looks better than i thought it would and its only primer here's a few pics.

First light coat of primer




After the 3rd and last coat of primer.



Close up after third and final coat of primer.



I'm going to let it dry for a couple of days before i paint it.

Daz

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Would have looked better if you removed the matrix hoses, and masked all the bulkhead stuff off. good progress though.

David_Wallis

Deffo..

If you want some paint thinners to clean that off the bits, give me a shout.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

The matrix hoses will be replaced with samco items.

The rest will be easy enough to clean off. the wiring looms will just get wrapped in new tape.

I was going to just show before and after pics but i think progess pics paint a better picture ( excuse the pun).

It will all look tip top when its finished.

The primer was done with aerosols but the top coat will be done with the use of a mates compressor and spray gun.

The interior will also all be done with the compressor and spray gun.

David_Wallis

Make sure you mask the inside of the screen. (speaking from experience here!!)