DIY 450 bhp Classic 2.0L
15 February 2006, 07:57 AM
#32
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Nice one Daz, looking at Bobs Graphs from the weekend dont think you will have any probs reaching the figures.
Are you doing any head work? may well be worth at least having a tidy up of the seat areas in the port.
Are you doing any head work? may well be worth at least having a tidy up of the seat areas in the port.
15 February 2006, 08:27 AM
#33
Yes the oil gallery plugs have had a big dose of compressed air through them.
Mark,
I am still in two minds wether to have a go at some head work. I have bought a valve spring compressor with the intention of removing the valves and replacing the oil seals and the collets. I have never done any head work at all as I really am no mechanic. I'm not sure how difficult or risky the DIY approach with these are. I certainly dont have the right kit for a full port polish job which is a shame. I do have a spare set of UK heads that I will practice everything on first. btw your thread will be very helpful here so I shall thankyou in advance
Todays aim is to get the six speed off open the casing and see if there is anything immediatley apparent as to why fourth gear keeps kicking out of gear.
I'll add some more photos today too.
Mark,
I am still in two minds wether to have a go at some head work. I have bought a valve spring compressor with the intention of removing the valves and replacing the oil seals and the collets. I have never done any head work at all as I really am no mechanic. I'm not sure how difficult or risky the DIY approach with these are. I certainly dont have the right kit for a full port polish job which is a shame. I do have a spare set of UK heads that I will practice everything on first. btw your thread will be very helpful here so I shall thankyou in advance
Todays aim is to get the six speed off open the casing and see if there is anything immediatley apparent as to why fourth gear keeps kicking out of gear.
I'll add some more photos today too.
Last edited by dazdavies; 15 February 2006 at 08:34 AM.
15 February 2006, 09:03 AM
#34
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The other things you will need or should consider-
Inlet manifold spacers, for heat transfer reasons and it makes the inlet pipe fit better (i forgot to do this
)
Relocate the PS reservoir. its just to damn tight on the inlet pipe and will give you grief fitting the turbo.
RCM do a kit, but a lot cheaper if you just ring grade A and get the union/pipework/reservoir/bracket from them of a new age car. will have to get rid of your carbon cannister. have just done this on mine.
Inlet manifold spacers, for heat transfer reasons and it makes the inlet pipe fit better (i forgot to do this
)Relocate the PS reservoir. its just to damn tight on the inlet pipe and will give you grief fitting the turbo.
RCM do a kit, but a lot cheaper if you just ring grade A and get the union/pipework/reservoir/bracket from them of a new age car. will have to get rid of your carbon cannister. have just done this on mine.
15 February 2006, 09:52 AM
#35
Cheers for the tip Mark,
The carbon canister is going anyway as I am going for a full on parallel fuel rail conversion with a pair of RCMS fuel rails.
A few more pics.
I have located the bearings on the donor block so that the positions of them dont get mixed up. They will have to be re fitted when the block goes to be machined for the new pistons and the 14mm ARP head bolts.
Left hand block half without bearings:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbwithoutbearings.jpg
Left Hand block half with bearings prior to fitting them: (note the excellent condition of the bearings these have done 18,000 hard miles too)
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbandbearings.jpg
Left hand block half with bearings fitted:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbwithbearings.jpg
Cylinders 1 and 3 prior to rebore:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylinders1and3.jpg.
Must go and remove the gearbox now
The carbon canister is going anyway as I am going for a full on parallel fuel rail conversion with a pair of RCMS fuel rails.
A few more pics.
I have located the bearings on the donor block so that the positions of them dont get mixed up. They will have to be re fitted when the block goes to be machined for the new pistons and the 14mm ARP head bolts.
Left hand block half without bearings:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbwithoutbearings.jpg
Left Hand block half with bearings prior to fitting them: (note the excellent condition of the bearings these have done 18,000 hard miles too)
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbandbearings.jpg
Left hand block half with bearings fitted:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lhbwithbearings.jpg
Cylinders 1 and 3 prior to rebore:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylinders1and3.jpg.
Must go and remove the gearbox now
Last edited by dazdavies; 15 February 2006 at 09:55 AM.
15 February 2006, 11:18 AM
#36
If you want to save a bit more Money Daz, seek out MEF over on bbs.22b.com, if you can supply him a set of stock rails he can weld on a set of male JIC fittings to the ends and supply the 90 degree bends for not a lot of money...several of the bigger power cars have rails like these fitted
15 February 2006, 03:29 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Tim W
If you want to save a bit more Money Daz, seek out MEF over on bbs.22b.com, if you can supply him a set of stock rails he can weld on a set of male JIC fittings to the ends and supply the 90 degree bends for not a lot of money...several of the bigger power cars have rails like these fitted
Brilliant Tim Thanks.
See this is why scoobynet rocks
15 February 2006, 03:45 PM
#38
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Daz, im not on 22B and i should do this really. I have a set of rails off the car ready to go. Ask about a couple will you? group buy price. LOL
The RCM set up is nice but hellishly expensive!
The RCM set up is nice but hellishly expensive!
15 February 2006, 04:10 PM
#39
Originally Posted by dazdavies
Brilliant Tim Thanks.
See this is why scoobynet rocks
See this is why scoobynet rocks
Mark, you should see the rails I bought for my car...I went a bit mad one day and took Cord up on an offer to make me some rather trick billet rails, they cost a fair bit but are rather lovely...as well as solving the issue of running phase 2 injectors on an ex Andy Forrest, reversed entry, extrude honed, phase 1 inlet manifold
15 February 2006, 04:24 PM
#41
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doh!
you should not have shown me your rails Cord! I have access to loads of CNC m'c centres and lathes and can do that at no price! unfortunately got caught a few weeks ago and got in a bit of trouble. They are nearly worth it again though
Looking for a cost efective solution really if i can. ta for the link though
you should not have shown me your rails Cord! I have access to loads of CNC m'c centres and lathes and can do that at no price! unfortunately got caught a few weeks ago and got in a bit of trouble. They are nearly worth it again though
Looking for a cost efective solution really if i can. ta for the link though
15 February 2006, 06:01 PM
#43
He's escaped and come over here too! Mark, Cord has acces to some rather fancy machines and materials too at his day/night job...He also builds Skyline engines in his spare time for RB Motorsport
15 February 2006, 07:30 PM
#44
Those rails are EXACTLY what I am looking for.
Had a productive day today.
Taken the six speed gearbox out and thats gone to be repaired.
Dead easy to take out but its a heavy bloody thing.
Drive shaft pins were way easier than I thought they were going to be. They were a sod when I put them in 6 months ago but a few well placed hammer blows on the punch tool and out they popped.
Three bolts on the wish bones on either side of the car gave me enough clearance to slip the drive shafts off the gear box.
Six bolts on the rear diff and prop connection cover (14mm). Once this was removed it gave me access to the prop/ rear diff connection.
A screw driver to wedge the prop and the four 12mm bolts were off and the prop was detached from the rear diff.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/reardiffwithoutprop.jpg
Undo the two 17mm prop shaft centre bearing bolts:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/propshaftcentre.jpg
Then slide the propshaft out of the back of the gear box:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxwithoutprop.jpg
Then I placed a jack under the gearbox and undid the four 14mm bolts (2 either side on the rear gearbox support)
Then the two 17 mm (one either side on the front gearbox support).
Took off the Vehicle speed sensor connector on the gearbox and finally took the clutch cylinder off the gear box (two 14mm bolts) and then lowered the jack.
Bit of huffing and puffing and alot of jiggling and the gearbox was finally on the floor just underneath the transmission tunnel.:
Before removal:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/engineout.jpg
After
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speedintunnel.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speedintunnel2.jpg
Lifted the car up and pulled it out. That was hard work as its proper heavy.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/fromfrontjpg.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speed.jpg
Think my gearbox is well knackered judging by the amount of filings on the gearbox sump magnet unless this is normal ( one can live in hope):
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxsumpmagnet.jpg
Will hopefully have some news on how severe the dmage is and how much its going to cost to put right.
I am thinking of a 5speed PPG if the six speed is fecked. I hope it aint I can't afford it to be.
Anyway that's it for today...enjoy!!
Had a productive day today.
Taken the six speed gearbox out and thats gone to be repaired.
Dead easy to take out but its a heavy bloody thing.
Drive shaft pins were way easier than I thought they were going to be. They were a sod when I put them in 6 months ago but a few well placed hammer blows on the punch tool and out they popped.
Three bolts on the wish bones on either side of the car gave me enough clearance to slip the drive shafts off the gear box.
Six bolts on the rear diff and prop connection cover (14mm). Once this was removed it gave me access to the prop/ rear diff connection.
A screw driver to wedge the prop and the four 12mm bolts were off and the prop was detached from the rear diff.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/reardiffwithoutprop.jpg
Undo the two 17mm prop shaft centre bearing bolts:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/propshaftcentre.jpg
Then slide the propshaft out of the back of the gear box:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxwithoutprop.jpg
Then I placed a jack under the gearbox and undid the four 14mm bolts (2 either side on the rear gearbox support)
Then the two 17 mm (one either side on the front gearbox support).
Took off the Vehicle speed sensor connector on the gearbox and finally took the clutch cylinder off the gear box (two 14mm bolts) and then lowered the jack.
Bit of huffing and puffing and alot of jiggling and the gearbox was finally on the floor just underneath the transmission tunnel.:
Before removal:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/engineout.jpg
After
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speedintunnel.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speedintunnel2.jpg
Lifted the car up and pulled it out. That was hard work as its proper heavy.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/fromfrontjpg.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/6speed.jpg
Think my gearbox is well knackered judging by the amount of filings on the gearbox sump magnet unless this is normal ( one can live in hope):
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxsumpmagnet.jpg
Will hopefully have some news on how severe the dmage is and how much its going to cost to put right.
I am thinking of a 5speed PPG if the six speed is fecked. I hope it aint I can't afford it to be.
Anyway that's it for today...enjoy!!
Last edited by dazdavies; 15 February 2006 at 07:33 PM.
15 February 2006, 11:00 PM
#45
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Interesting thread Daz. If you want to save a little money use the stock sized ARP studs - much cheaper/no machining. I use these studs at 30psi and have not encountered a problem. The money you save can be put toward indexing the short engine - This is definitely something you should do IMO (if you are not doing it already). I also use 850's with no idle problems - but I would suggest sending them away to Mark to be flow tested. Better safe than sorry. Good luck
16 February 2006, 11:21 AM
#47
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Graham - I should have said ‘blueprinting’ rather than ‘indexing’, however I’m sure some engine builders think blueprinting is a process of just getting the right part numbers .
Indexing (which should be included in the process of blueprinting) refers to the crank and basically means machining the rod journals to be all the same stroke and the same distance apart from each other. This will give equal compression across all 4 cylinders due to identical deck height, also piston position relative to cam/valve position will all be the same and bearing wear is also reduced - which is quite important on a scoob
.Indexing (which should be included in the process of blueprinting) refers to the crank and basically means machining the rod journals to be all the same stroke and the same distance apart from each other. This will give equal compression across all 4 cylinders due to identical deck height, also piston position relative to cam/valve position will all be the same and bearing wear is also reduced - which is quite important on a scoob
16 February 2006, 11:34 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by hypoluxa
Graham - I should have said ‘blueprinting’ rather than ‘indexing’, however I’m sure some engine builders think blueprinting is a process of just getting the right part numbers .
Indexing (which should be included in the process of blueprinting) refers to the crank and basically means machining the rod journals to be all the same stroke and the same distance apart from each other. This will give equal compression across all 4 cylinders due to identical deck height, also piston position relative to cam/valve position will all be the same and bearing wear is also reduced - which is quite important on a scoob
.Indexing (which should be included in the process of blueprinting) refers to the crank and basically means machining the rod journals to be all the same stroke and the same distance apart from each other. This will give equal compression across all 4 cylinders due to identical deck height, also piston position relative to cam/valve position will all be the same and bearing wear is also reduced - which is quite important on a scoob
If you're spending over £1k on a billet crank then it would be different. In my experience the OE subaru cranks are relatively consistent.
I agree with the studs though, the ARPs can with stand somewhat more than 30psi
16 February 2006, 12:02 PM
#49
I am quite happy with the crank,
The car has done 18K reasonably hard miles and the bearings are showing very little wear indeed so no issues there.
Cheers for the tip Paul and Hypo, I shall use the 11mm ARP bolts instead of the 14mm.
Back to it.
The car has done 18K reasonably hard miles and the bearings are showing very little wear indeed so no issues there.
Cheers for the tip Paul and Hypo, I shall use the 11mm ARP bolts instead of the 14mm.
Back to it.
17 February 2006, 07:15 AM
#51
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I have measured and compared a couple of new o.e subaru cranks and an aftermarkrt crank on an adcole (which is the automotive industry standard kit if you like). The geometry was actually very good of the scoob crank - pin stroke varied by no more than 15 microns from nominal, phases by no more than 0.1 degrees, Diameter,roundness and straightness of pins and mains by 3 microns.
Thats good for an o.e manufacturers crank and well within tolerances we make our own cranks with. I visited there last year in a work capacity and they are a long way from being the most forward thinking of the jap manufacturers but they have invested heavily in new crank and cam lines recently - hence accurate cranks.
Thats good for an o.e manufacturers crank and well within tolerances we make our own cranks with. I visited there last year in a work capacity and they are a long way from being the most forward thinking of the jap manufacturers but they have invested heavily in new crank and cam lines recently - hence accurate cranks.
20 February 2006, 12:24 PM
#52
Minor Set back today:
My Injectors purchased off ebay arrived and they appear to be the wrong size. They are just too Narrow for the rails.
I am aware of phase two injectors being too small for phase 1 rails but the injectors that arrived this morning appeared too narrow for my phase 2 rails.
Can someone confirm that they are indeed the wrong injectors here are some pics.
The alleged 850cc subaru phase 2 injectors in my phase 2 fuel rail:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/notsubaruinjectors.jpg
My 440cc injectors:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/subaruinjectors.jpg
some pics of the 850cc's
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector2.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector3.jpg
Cheers
Daz
My Injectors purchased off ebay arrived and they appear to be the wrong size. They are just too Narrow for the rails.
I am aware of phase two injectors being too small for phase 1 rails but the injectors that arrived this morning appeared too narrow for my phase 2 rails.
Can someone confirm that they are indeed the wrong injectors here are some pics.
The alleged 850cc subaru phase 2 injectors in my phase 2 fuel rail:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/notsubaruinjectors.jpg
My 440cc injectors:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/subaruinjectors.jpg
some pics of the 850cc's
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector2.jpg
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wronginjector3.jpg
Cheers
Daz
21 February 2006, 01:34 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by Tim W
I think, but I'm not 100% sure, that Carl Davey does a set of adapters that would allow you to use these injectors in your rails, see here
01 March 2006, 08:26 PM
#58
Update.
Have today had the verdict on my knackered Six speed. It wasnt as bad as I thought considering the abuse its had to put up with.
Due to the old selector fork bush problem I need the following:
3rd/4th Selector Fork
5th/6th Selector Fork
3rd/4th Outer Sleave
5th/6th Outer Sleave
5th Gear syncro
and they have advised replacement of 3rd, 4th and 6th syncro's too.
If anyone would like to quote for these parts I'm thinking of you Paul (zen) please mail me dazdavies@hotmail.com
Transmission Number TY856WN3CA
All in all the gearbox is in pretty good nick. It was very clean. The front diff looked brand new according to the engineer working on it.
Here are a few pics:
Main Internals:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxinternals.jpg
main Internals 2
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxinternals2.jpg
Front Diff
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/frontdiff.jpg
one more
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearbox2.jpg.
Thats all for now.
Daz
Have today had the verdict on my knackered Six speed. It wasnt as bad as I thought considering the abuse its had to put up with.
Due to the old selector fork bush problem I need the following:
3rd/4th Selector Fork
5th/6th Selector Fork
3rd/4th Outer Sleave
5th/6th Outer Sleave
5th Gear syncro
and they have advised replacement of 3rd, 4th and 6th syncro's too.
If anyone would like to quote for these parts I'm thinking of you Paul (zen) please mail me dazdavies@hotmail.com
Transmission Number TY856WN3CA
All in all the gearbox is in pretty good nick. It was very clean. The front diff looked brand new according to the engineer working on it.
Here are a few pics:
Main Internals:
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxinternals.jpg
main Internals 2
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearboxinternals2.jpg
Front Diff
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/frontdiff.jpg
one more
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/gearbox2.jpg.
Thats all for now.
Daz
Last edited by dazdavies; 01 March 2006 at 09:04 PM.
01 March 2006, 11:01 PM
#59
Ecu Specialist
If it helps the injector thinking I use 740cc jobby's, at my chosen afr which is a bit leaner than you should strictly use on a normal Subaru engine, max injector duty is 74.8% as logged during the power runs at G-Force.
cheers and all the best for this.
bob
cheers and all the best for this.
bob
02 March 2006, 12:30 AM
#60
Hi Bob,
Thanks very much for your input. I have bought some 850's but I have seen that the off boost fuel economy on these things is dreadful. I've been thinking of some Apexi 740's as I have been told they are excellent. Whilst I am not expecting huge economy it would be nice to retain some as this car will be my daily driver.
Thanks for the info, very much appreciated.
Daz
Thanks very much for your input. I have bought some 850's but I have seen that the off boost fuel economy on these things is dreadful. I've been thinking of some Apexi 740's as I have been told they are excellent. Whilst I am not expecting huge economy it would be nice to retain some as this car will be my daily driver.
Thanks for the info, very much appreciated.
Daz