dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Quick Update:

Still waiting for my bloody pistons from the states. Apparently they are at Parcel Force's International Hub in Coventry. Where they have been since Sunday. Despite several conversations with the F*ckwits they employ they are still sat on the shelf in Coventry.

MY gearbox parts have arrived I just need the time (and the money) to go and get them (£620 in parts alone). Hopefully more to tell you next week and I can crack on with things.
TTFN

Daz

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

Ah the joys of dealing with Parcel Farce and the hub at Coventry...I had a package correctly addressed to my home address somehow fiund it's way to somewhere 75 miles away, it then had to return to the hub to be sent out again to me...passing within 5 minutes of my house on it's return trip to Cov I'll be avoiding using them whenever possible

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

At least it didnt do 3 laps of the country like my turbo did 2 years ago. Everytime, it landed back at coventry . WOuldnt mind, it was going from one side t'pennines to t'other.

Daz, you should have got them Mark, would probably have been in your hands the next day

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

I'm sure they would have been but these were £300 cheaper. By my reckoning that's an SX FPR and all the hosing and connection pieces for a proper parallel fuel rail conversion. If money wasnt a factor then this car would have been dumped at RCMS for a couple of months for some Matt Clark treatment. But, A: I cant afford it. and B: There's no fun in that, well apart from the drive home maybe

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Yep, i can agree with what your saying.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

The new Wiseco Forged pistons have turned up. Very pleased with them indeed.
All in including postage from the states, Import Duty, Vat, and a £13 Parcel Force "handling Charge" (which I really begrudge paying) the piston set complete with Rings, pins, and circlips were £365.12p thats over £200 cheaper that anywhere in The UK.
The Pistons themselves look to be a very high quality indeed.

Here are a few pics:

All boxed and free stickers too (for the tool box, not the car!!)
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wiseco_pistonset.jpg

Wiseco Forged Piston Top
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/newpistontop.jpg


From the side, note the coating on the piston skirt.
http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/newpistonside.jpg

and finally the underside of the piston.


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/newpistonbottom.jpg.

Just hope they are the right ones lol. Pretty sure they are but you never Know. They are 93mm (3rd oversize)

Now the real work begins

Daz

911

Fab!
Graham

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

Daz gald you got the pistons in the end, did you collect them that day from the cov depot, or did they finally manage to deliver them?

Any andvance on my manifold?

Dan.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Finally got some work done.
I took the block halves to an engineering company for boring and honing on Wednesday. They were ready for Friday. Cost me £140 all in. They used a torque plate to bore them which means basically they were bored out whilst the head torque were simulated using this torque plate.

The piston clearances that wiseco advised were 2.5 thou but I was advised by Matt at RCMS to go with a 3 thou clearance which Is what I have done.

So this weekend after rigorously cleaning all the components I have managed to assemble my new forged bottom end which consists of:
1 STI version 9 cross drilled Niterided Crank.



Roger clark motosport WRC lead copper bearings with Matts Oil Modification.



Eagle Forged rods with ARP 2000 con rod bolts



Wiseco 93mm (3rd oversize) Forged pistons rings and clips.



More pictures later. I'm off for a bath and a beer

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Some more detailed pics now.

After meticulously cleaing everything it was time to start putting it all back together.
I placed one block half on my engine buiding bench or should I say the bottom half of my tool cabinet!!
Then I placed the bearings in their various locations. Once the bearings were in place I finally dropped in the crank. With the crank correctly seated I was now able to put the big end bearings in the rods and put the rods in place.
I torqued the rods bolts up to the recommended 52Nm. Job done

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/crankrodsandblock.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/blockhalfandcrank.jpg

I placed new four o-ring seals that go in between the two block halves for the oil and water galleries. Applied fluid packing (three bond 1215) to the relevant areas of one of the block halves then seated the other block and carefully mated them up. A few gentle knocks with a cloth wrapped rubber mallet sorted the final few mm. Then came the matter of bolting them both together. 4 large bolts one side and 6 the other. All done to 20Nm plus another 90 degrees each. Next came the tightening of the botls securing the top outer edge of the block halves together. 8 Bolts in total 7 8mm and one 6 mm. The 8mm bolts were tightened to 25Nm and the 6mm near the sump housing was tighten to 6.4Nm although I couldn't get the torque wrench in here so I used a spanner and guessed.

Heres the block assembled:

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/assembledblockbottom.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/shortenginetop.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/shortmotorfront.jpg

Oh I forget to mentioned that the block halves have been coated with a high temp paint hence the black appearance. The finish is matt black for now but the outer black will go on in a couple of days once the matt coat has cured and hardened that will be a nice gloss finish.

Next came the job of dropping the pistons in. Here's a pic of piston and block prior to fitting.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/pistonpriortofitting.jpg

The fitting of the pistons were fairly straight forward. The piston rings were installed onto the pistons by hand. All this talk of needing a piston ring expander is nonsense they were a doddle to do. I did however need a piston ring compressor to fit the pistons. I got one of these this morning from Halfords for a tenner..bargain!!

The pistons had to be fitted in a certain direction as the pins are very slightly offset. Note the mark looks like a drilling mark at the front of the top of the piston. These had to placed so that they were facing the front of the engine.



http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/newpistontop.jpg

One of the two circlips had to be placed prior to piston fitting. This was the circlip furthest from the access hole in the block.

Lining the piston up with the rods to enable fitting of the gudgeon pin was a delecate time consuming process. Basically you line up the piston and the top of the rod and insert the gudgeon pin through the access hole, into one side of the piston, through the top of the con rod (little end) and finally through the other side of the piston where it is stopped by the circlip that you fitted earlier. You then have to use a set of long nosed pliers to fit the outer circlip through the access hole in the block.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/pistonpinaccess.jpg

Once this is done you apply some fluid packing to the thread of the block plug then tighten it to 70Nm to securely cover the access hole.

One side has a plate instead of a block plug which is secured by two harded cross head screws. To tighten or loosen these you need to use an impact driver. Another side has a block plug behind an oil seperator cover the plug is tightened to 70Nm but the six screws on the oil seperator cover also have to be tightened with an impact driver.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/pistonandcirclips.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/nopistons.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/1pistonfitted.jpg

The end result, a set of very nice Wiseco forged pistons.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/wisec...sinstalled.jpg

Last job of the day was to paint the new Roger Clark Motorsport Modified Oil pump. Dont worry the seal thats been painted was an old one I've used to mask the location of the oil seal from the paint. Just the matt paint is shown but it will eventually be a nice gloss black.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilpumppainted.jpg

Finally the water pipe that joins the two block halves was also given a coat or four of matt High temp paint.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/waterpipepainted.jpg.


All in all I am happy with this weekends progress:d

More soon

Daz

911

Progress indeed!
Graham

p1mark

good going Daz! when is it gonna be a runner?

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Not for a good while yet. I have to save the necessary funds for the Turbo and Intercooler.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

have managed to do a bit more today.

After letting all the shiny black paint dry for over a week it was time to fit the Roger Clark Motorsport Oil pump. The tube of three bond that came with this is enough to do several engine builds but it's come in very handy indeed.

So a few More pics:

A picture of the new and newly painted oil pump.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilpumpblack.jpg

Three bond applied and ready to fit.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilpumpandthreebond.jpg

Oil Pump fitted.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilpumpfitted.jpg

As you will have noticed the engine block is black. I have used a special heat prrof paint that's normally used on bikes. It's come out far better than I thought.

Here's a better pic.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/shortmotorpainted.jpg

I am now starting work on the cylinder heads. I had a little sanding and spraying to do foranother project so I thought I would do the Cam Covers at the same time I managed to get the preped and primed today:

Cam Shaft cover cleaned and preped.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/rockercover-preped.jpg


Camshaft cover Primed and ready to paint:

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/rockercover-primed.jpg

to be continued...

p1mark

Looking good Daz. Painting your oil pump - i thought i was crazy

What paint is it you are using? i am considering doing my next engine in the same stuff.

Just an observation - IMHO you are using way too much sealant. A little of that goes a long way. It is such good quality that a thin smear is all thats required

That stuff is hard drying, but with that much you will have huge beads of it inside the oil pump cavity just waiting to fall off

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the tip mark, fortunatly. I remembered this after the pic was taken. I have had to apply it by hand as I have lost the nozzle that came with the sealant. I cleaned up the excess and it went on a treat.

More tomorrow

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Just started thinking about turbo options and thought I had set my mind on one of RCMS garrett/IHI Hybrids.

I was at Elvington this weekend and a few of the guys there recommended an MD321T which is a new offering from Turbo Dynamics. Does anyone have any opinions or experience regarding this turbo.

With regard to my progress I have just managed to get my cam covers preped primed and painted. Here's the end result.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/camcoverpainted.jpg

WRX_Rich

iTrader: (5)

are they not one of the same? ( turbos)

not sure, might be worth a search on 22b

looks like i was wrong
http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...=000825#000010

ZEN Performance

I hope your oil pump oring isn't squidged into the hole with all that 3bond

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

Nice to meet you atlast at the weekend Daz, hope your rebuild all goes well

Dan.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Paul. If you had read an earlier post. You'd have seen that the three bond was tidied up before the oil pimp was fitted but after the pic was taken.

Danny.

Likewise mate. Your scoob seemed on song and looked well going up the strip. Good luck with project slow evolution.

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

That oil pump is MASSIVE!!!!!

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilpumppainted.jpg

Look at the size of it compared to your feet!!!!!

ZEN Performance

Good to know that wasn't the pump AFTER being tidied up! I've seen much worse on engines not home built by an enthusiast.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Another full day on it today.

I have stripped the heads and given them a thoroughly good clean and a good blast with the jet wash. Here's some pics of a full days work.

Head and cams at 10.am this morning.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/headandcamsbefore.jpg

Using my new Valve spring compressor. The first time I have ever used one!!
It took me a while to figure it out but after that it was a doddle.


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/valve...compressor.jpg

Close up of Valve spring compressor in action. Note the collets still in place

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/valve...sorcloseup.jpg


I labelled Sixteen individual bags as I didnt want the bits getting mixed up. So each Valve, Spring, retainer,collets ,shims and buckets are in the same bag. One bag for each valve.

A pic of the heads with all valves removed. This was taken before it got cleaned.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/headbefore.jpg


This next one was taken after a good scrub with a toothbrush and some engine and machine cleaner but before the spark plugs had been removed and the whole thing blitzed by a pressure washer.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/headafter.jpg

Here they are all clean.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cleanheadsvalveside.jpg


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cleanheadstop.jpg


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cleanedheadsfront.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cleanedheadsside.jpg


Tomorrow will see me cleaning all the valves, springs, buckets, shims, retainers. I will be putting in new collets and new valve stem oil seals in and building the heads back up.


Right off to town for a few beers and a kebab

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Another full day today.
Started with a trip to Wilko's for some Caustic Soda for cleaning the crap of the valves.

Before on the left and after 30 minutes in a Caustic soda solution on the right.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/exhaustvalves.jpg

I then went on to clean every shim, bucket, spring and retainer these were done with a good wash in everyday washing up liquid. Everything was in excellent condition considering the abuse I've given the car.

After all the painstaking cleaning was done I decided to mask up the heads and paint them the same way I did the engine block.

1st Coat with heat paint this paint copes with 500 degrees C.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylin...hheatpaint.jpg

After the gloss enamel
The end result:

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylin...d-painted1.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylin...d-painted2.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylin...d-painted3.jpg

Whilst I was at the head and valve stuff I thought I would take the opportunity to show those of you that don't know, the difference between UK spec valvetrain and the Jap STI spec.

Basically the heads are identical its the Valves, springs, retainers, buckets, shims and cams that are different.

With The UK spec the buckets sit over the valves and a shim goes ontop of the bucket and lies in between the bucket and the cam.

The Jap STI spec is the opposite in that there is a little shim that sits in the retainer ontop of the valve and the bucket or "lifter" goes over that. The bucket is then in direct contact with the cam and not the bucket. Hence the names over bucket shims and under bucket shims respectively.

The cams on the Jap spec are slightly bigger(lift) with a longer duration.

The springs are also bigger and stronger on the Jap spec hence the higher rev limit. Here are a few pictures comparing the two:

UK spec starting from top left. Valve, spring underneath those are the two retaining collets then you have from the left, the retainer itself a shim and a bucket or lifter.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/ukspe...components.jpg

Jap Spec notice the small shim (bottom middle)

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/sti-valvecomponents.jpg

Now comparing the two:

Retainers, Jap STI spec on the left and UK spec on the right

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/retainers.jpg

Shims, again Jap STI spec on the left UK on the right

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/shims.jpg

Retainers Jap on left showing shim inserted.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/retainersandjapshim.jpg

UK spec bucket the UK shim sits ontop these

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/ukspec-bucket.jpg

STI Version 5 Bucket notice its flatness compared to the UK one

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/sti5-bucket.jpg

Finally a comparison of the springs the thicker and stronger STI spring is on the left.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/springdifference.jpg

Tomorrow I'll be at the Donny show so I doubt there will be anymore pics until monday night.

Daz

S.P.Developments

Daz,

On the uk spec valve/spring set up, are the springs single or double. and are the lifters solid or hydraulic.

John

ScoobyDuck

iTrader: (1)

very good write up and pics Daz !

going to be doing similar to me recently aquired Sti heads too

Steve

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Springs are single and lifters are solid

p1mark

Good stuff Daz, I always decarbonise valves with a wire brush in a air die grinder but if it only takes 30 mins in caustic soda will have to try that the next time.

Nice to see someone taking there time and being really thorough

Loving the black engine . Do you have a link?

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Busy day again yesterday. The whole day revolved around the cylinder heads and all the valves.

Bought myself a valve grinding kit for a grand total of £3 (three pounds incase you read that wrong).
It consisted of a sucker which goes onto the end of the valve and a tin of grinding paste. The tin is double ended which has course paste at one end and fine paste at the other. Each valve and its corresponding seat on the head had two applications of course followed by two applications of fine paste.

Simple process which involved rotating the valve backwards and forwards using the plunger and the grains in the paste just cut the valve into the seat.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/grindingtoolandpaste.jpg


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/grindingtool.jpg


Doing it by hand gradually grew tedious, time consuming and eventually painfull so I adapted my grinding tool with this.


http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/adaptedgrindingtool.jpg

A variable speed drill with a reverse action. Why it took me nearly an hour to think of it is beyond me!!

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/inletvalveandpaste.jpg

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/inletandpaste.jpg

I got some good results with this.

Here's an exhaust valave prior to the process.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/unlappedexhaustvalve.jpg

Same valve afterwards

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lappedexhaustvalve.jpg

Here's a lapped inlet valve too. Notice the distinct line around the valve head.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/lappedinletvalve.jpg

After the heads had another dose of the pressure washer all the valve stem oil seals were replaced as were the collets that lock the retainers in place.

Notice the different colours of the seals. The green ones are for the exhaust valves and the grey ones are for the inlet valves.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/oilsealsandcollets.jpg

Then it was time to fit the valves. This was a total ball ache.
The stems of the valves were dipped in clean oil. The springs were put in place as were the retainers. I then used the valve spring compressor to compress the vavles to put the collets (retainer keys in place). This is where the fun started. A fiddly frustrating bastid of a job. Resorted in aplying a little copper slip to each collet so that it would stick on the valve stem to allow me to undo the valve spring compressor. Lots of attempts and lots of swearing later the valves, springs and retainers were inplace.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/nobucketsorcams.jpg


The shims were then put in place, the buckets cleaned (again). The buckets were then dipped in new engine oil and dropped into place on the respective valves.

Next the cams got a good clean.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cams.jpg

The cams are clearly marked as to which ones are which.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/in-exmarkings.jpg

Finally the cams were dropped into place with the camshaft retainers tighted finger tight as they will need to comeback off when I fit the heads to the block. But for now they will keep all the buckets in place.

Heres a pic of one fully assembled head.

http://www.scoob.co.uk/rebuild/cylinderheadbuilt.jpg


Just got to wait until I get paid now so I can afford some ARP head bolts then I can finish the engine build.

Next I'm painting the inlet manifold and sorting the parallel fuel rails out.

To be continued...