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£350 to spend on fronts components

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Old 03 December 2005, 04:55 PM
  #31  
WRX_Rich
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well! all day and one door done.. went a bit mad with the dynamat

I have blocked of ll the holes to make the door more of an enclosure,

would you guys be happy not to put the plactic sheet back over the dynamat like above

the old crossover after only a year use looked in a terible state so im tempted to move this somewhere other than in the bottom of the door or worst case stick it in a water tight bag

the raindow tweeters don't seem to come with a small housing like other conponents I have used so fitting may be a pain if I decide to to take them from the door

ow well clothes show tomorrow ( bloody girl friend) so probably start again next saturday
Old 05 December 2005, 09:35 AM
  #32  
chiark
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I have blocked of ll the holes to make the door more of an enclosure,
Don't block the holes at the bottom of the door - they're drains to let water out, and believe me water does get in! I guess you've blocked the holes in the inner door skin, in which case that is a good idea.

Lose the plastic sheet - it's not needed, as the backs of the door cards are plastic. I think it's more a vapour barrier, but I never had any problems with misting in my MY03 without the sheets.

Put the x-overs in the car behind the kick panels in the footwells, and run extra cable through the gromets. I ended up coming out of a blanking panel on the car, then going into the big gromet. Sealed it up with transparent sealant.
Old 05 December 2005, 01:01 PM
  #33  
ru'
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For what it's worth I used heavy duty velcro pads and stuck the crossovers to the inside of the door card when I did my doors (info in the FAQ).
Old 05 December 2005, 05:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ru'
For what it's worth I used heavy duty velcro pads and stuck the crossovers to the inside of the door card when I did my doors (info in the FAQ).
think im going for foot wells this time but we will see

cheers

Last edited by WRX_Rich; 05 December 2005 at 05:45 PM.
Old 05 December 2005, 05:43 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by chiark
Don't block the holes at the bottom of the door - they're drains to let water out, and believe me water does get in! I guess you've blocked the holes in the inner door skin, in which case that is a good idea.

Lose the plastic sheet - it's not needed, as the backs of the door cards are plastic. I think it's more a vapour barrier, but I never had any problems with misting in my MY03 without the sheets.

Put the x-overs in the car behind the kick panels in the footwells, and run extra cable through the gromets. I ended up coming out of a blanking panel on the car, then going into the big gromet. Sealed it up with transparent sealant.

sorry should have said inner door skin - the bottom of the doors seem to be thick enough without the mat

I Like the idea of the footwell's.. only trouble is all my nice soldered and srink wrapped connectors will need re doing

the other thing I have got hold of is a pair of "skins" to protect the speakers from rust in the future

thanks again - and the sheet will go ... thank god
Old 10 December 2005, 07:44 PM
  #36  
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well 2 doors done and false floor ready to go

i had a quick test of the fronts and to be honest i was a bit dissapointed with the sound - did't sound much different to my old kappa's BUT i didn't play about with the amp settings or postive negative settings on the speakers

i will wait till tomorrow to fully test,

can any one give me any tips for setting up the amps last time i set the freq's to about 80 and amp gain to just start distoriting on 3/4 volume . does this sound about right

cheers
Rich
Old 10 December 2005, 08:53 PM
  #37  
jag_h
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your speakers will probably drop a bit lower tbh, i would do a similar test for the frequecny crossover to what you do with the gain (assuming you have fll frequencty control on the amp).

my bostons drop down easily to 50hz, and can easily handle the power my amp is throwing at them. but my gains are still slightly down from max, and the xover is is circa 60hz.

i dont have any rear speakers in, just the sub and fronts. the sub in mine is set to drop frequencies at circa 75-80, so there is a little bit of crossover in frquecnies...
Old 11 December 2005, 08:39 PM
  #38  
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all done and wow, after a little play with the settings the car does sound amazing couldn't belive the difference

but got used to it far to quickly and still noticing the loss in speed but nothing a 2.5 won't sort out

cheers for all the help guys
Old 12 December 2005, 10:45 AM
  #39  
chiark
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after a little play with the settings the car does sound amazing couldn't belive the difference
Excellent result . It's always disappointing when you've spent the money and, on first turn on, think "yuk" but there's a lot of flexibility in even a simple amped system to get the best out of it.

I tried to run my front speakers actively as I had the amp channels to do it, and just couldn't get them sounding good. After fiddling, I ended up running them off the passives but bridging the amp channels into them instead, and they sounded stunning. Everything should have been better actively, but I just couldn't tweak it to sound anywhere near as good. Weird...
Old 15 December 2005, 05:20 AM
  #40  
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Hi,

After reading this i've decided to splash out on speakers for my scoob. Its got nothing fitted as standard so it will be a build from scratch. (ver.6 type r v.ltd). I've already bought my headunit which is an Alpine 9855r. Ive decided to get a pair of 6.5 XR's for the front along with a 300/2 amp to power them. Im just wandering what i should fit in the rear? Thought maybe a pair of XR CXi's as they are not component and would be easier for the rear along with another 300/2 amp. I dont really want to miss out on the low end though. Do you think i would be best fitting a pair of 6x9's or perhaps a nice tight 10" sub? Have a pair of focal access 6x9's already from my last car but didnt rate them at all. Thought they were lacking in punch and sounded quite bright for 6x9's.

Thanks,
Doug.
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