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Co confused by these Santa pod slips!

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Old 14 August 2005, 10:56 AM
  #31  
Gary C
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Originally Posted by Nick Read
A paddle clutch is a hassle in heavy traffic though, constantly having to knock it into neutral, then put it in first, slight judder and you're off, brake, knock it back into neutral etc etc.
just like a standard STi clutch then
Old 14 August 2005, 11:06 AM
  #32  
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I find an Exedy Organic works well for me. Paddles are also an option, but research what they are like as some of them differ from one another. Organics are easier on the transmission.


Bob
Old 14 August 2005, 07:35 PM
  #33  
Nick Read
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
I find an Exedy Organic works well for me. Paddles are also an option, but research what they are like as some of them differ from one another. Organics are easier on the transmission.


Bob
Yes that's true. I think the main thing to remember is that if you do get seriously into quarter miling, you will eventually start shelling out for transmission parts - could be clutches, gearboxes, diffs, whatever, but that's the nature of the sport. There will always be a weak point in your transmission, so one way to look at it is to decide which is the easiest element to replace and make sure that's the weakest link. On my old Clio, clutches were a nightmare job, so it made sense to have the clutch super-tough. But of course that means that eventually the flywheel will wear instead...
Old 15 August 2005, 01:23 PM
  #34  
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Right.

So rally clutch, i will be doing track days and quarter miles alot, so i have to upgrade, i know that one. Best start looking around for average prices then.
Old 15 August 2005, 06:19 PM
  #35  
Nick Read
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Originally Posted by G_Sleigh_STi
Right.

So rally clutch, i will be doing track days and quarter miles alot, so i have to upgrade, i know that one. Best start looking around for average prices then.
Yes I think that's the best option for what you want to do. I can't comment on multi-plate clutches like Exedy and OS Giken make, so I won't try. I would imagine they're a great way of retaining the feel and user-friendliness of a road clutch with greatly increased torque handling capabilities.

But for track work and quarter miling where there's gonna be a lot of harsh clutch work, a rally style paddle clutch (cerametallic paddles) is what you want. They aren't even that expensive tbh. Helix made the one I used in my Clio turbo, but I also had a 'soft pedal conversion' on that which somehow altered the leverage on the pedal so it was lighter than the standard one! I'm not sure whether anyone offers this for Subarus or whether it's possible. It was a mod on the Clio 16v and Williams because they have a notoriously heavy clutch for a road car.
Old 16 August 2005, 10:56 AM
  #36  
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ive done a bit of drag racing at the pod but not in my impreza so i guess take this advice with a pinch of salt

the best bit of advice i ever got was to race your own race, dont worry about whats in the other lane.

with the scooby i would bring the car into stage with the handbrake on slightly, just enough so you can preload the gearbox and diffs with a very lightly slipping clutch. once you are in to stage fully and the both pairs of amber bulbs at the top (thats your staging lamps) and the blue 'all clear' light is on i would redline the car at full throttle with my foot to the floor as the turbo will be making more boost at wide open throttle rather that holding a rev say 5000 at part throttle. once matey has pressed his button to let you go i would drop the clutch while the second amber light is still on but before the 3rd one lights up. you should cut a good rection time this way. have your hand on the handbrake and release it as soon as you dump the clutch (and i mean DUMP the clutch) get ready to grab second gear, then 3rd, then a bit of 4th.

FLAT SHIFT, dont let off the gas pedal, your gear changes will take about 0.4 seconds downgate and 0.6 second across gate so let the engine rev and the car will lurch forward in each gear.

one other thing to note is that the 1/4 mile terminal speed is measured from the finish gantry to about 20 yards beyond so keep your foot hard to the floor till your past the last set of boxes.

ignore whatever times people say you should be able to run, its your car and it'll do its own thing.

different runs at the pod come from different lanes, changes in wind direction, track temp, whether or not the track was prepped in the last week etc so dont expect consistency throughout the year.

ps. race you own race.
pps. dont do a burnout
ppps. avoid the water box.
pppps. make sure your tyres are clean
ppppps. wear a helmet and long sleeves


Old 16 August 2005, 12:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jimby
ive done a bit of drag racing at the pod but not in my impreza so i guess take this advice with a pinch of salt

the best bit of advice i ever got was to race your own race, dont worry about whats in the other lane.

with the scooby i would bring the car into stage with the handbrake on slightly, just enough so you can preload the gearbox and diffs with a very lightly slipping clutch. once you are in to stage fully and the both pairs of amber bulbs at the top (thats your staging lamps) and the blue 'all clear' light is on i would redline the car at full throttle with my foot to the floor as the turbo will be making more boost at wide open throttle rather that holding a rev say 5000 at part throttle. once matey has pressed his button to let you go i would drop the clutch while the second amber light is still on but before the 3rd one lights up. you should cut a good rection time this way. have your hand on the handbrake and release it as soon as you dump the clutch (and i mean DUMP the clutch) get ready to grab second gear, then 3rd, then a bit of 4th.

FLAT SHIFT, dont let off the gas pedal, your gear changes will take about 0.4 seconds downgate and 0.6 second across gate so let the engine rev and the car will lurch forward in each gear.

one other thing to note is that the 1/4 mile terminal speed is measured from the finish gantry to about 20 yards beyond so keep your foot hard to the floor till your past the last set of boxes.

ignore whatever times people say you should be able to run, its your car and it'll do its own thing.

different runs at the pod come from different lanes, changes in wind direction, track temp, whether or not the track was prepped in the last week etc so dont expect consistency throughout the year.

ps. race you own race.
pps. dont do a burnout
ppps. avoid the water box.
pppps. make sure your tyres are clean
ppppps. wear a helmet and long sleeves


Cant see I agree with much there.

Dont redline on staging.
Wouldnt recommend flat-shifting unless you are prepared to pick up the bills
I always burnout. Gets some heat in the tyres and the crap off them.
Personally dont use the handbrake but know of some that do.
You wont need a helmet at those sorts of speeds.


If someone was to follow your advise it could cost them dear.


Bob
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