Nearly lost to 330ci
#32
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Originally Posted by stilover
With regards to the A-DCCD. I thought that flicking it to the lowest green light that that sent more power to the rear wheels? have I got this wrong?
Tony
#33
I had the option of getting a 330ci as my company car, 32k!!!!, but I opted for a WRX wagon SL with PPP and a little styling instead, 23k!!!. Think I am stupid!, the 330 had the worst ride I have ever experienced and albeit the large grunt it did not feel half as fast as my Scoob!, oh and there was the image problem...best descision I ever made!
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Originally Posted by Rannoch
The 330i is a lot quicker than any Subaru BBS will give it credit for
i had a play with one of them above 100ish on this really decent private runway and i was a bit suprised myself
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Go look it up in evo
BMW 330CI with 231bhp did 5.9s 0-60
A poor measure of performance - but it matched the heavyweight overgrown bugeye in acceleration
They just feel slower as they are smoother - much like my Pork which feels quite slow - but is faster against the clock than my STi 5 was when it was standard. Again the lack of turbo kick makes it feel slow - and on paper the Pork actually is slower.
Rannoch
BMW 330CI with 231bhp did 5.9s 0-60
A poor measure of performance - but it matched the heavyweight overgrown bugeye in acceleration
They just feel slower as they are smoother - much like my Pork which feels quite slow - but is faster against the clock than my STi 5 was when it was standard. Again the lack of turbo kick makes it feel slow - and on paper the Pork actually is slower.
Rannoch
#37
we did our ARDS in new 330Ci sports at Rockingham, 6 guys on the track at the same time and during the test laps which you drive as fast as you can one of the lads (trigger) overtook two others (the cars we set off so that we weren't bunched up at the start) so it really is down to the drivers skill. The 330ci is well balanced and very throwable into corners with the traction control and brake distribution really keeping the car on the edge yet still fast.
#38
I dont have a problem with beemers being a better handling car than scoobs. I have regularly watched CSL's dig in grip and turn through corners while my old smoker understeers like a pig trying to keep up. Yeah I know its not a CSL being discussed here but the 330i is a pretty good and quick car too.
As has been said I would imagine on two not a million miles away from eachother cars its going to be more about the driver than the equipment.
Gary
As has been said I would imagine on two not a million miles away from eachother cars its going to be more about the driver than the equipment.
Gary
#39
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Yep this is true, but doing so will make the car understeer.
Tony
Tony
Tony, are you serious?
Directing more torque (to be more accurate) to the rear should promote oversteer under an open throttle, not understeer.
The auto setting is probably doing that anyway in those conditions. The last thing you want when the front is understeering is to introduce more power to the fronts.
#40
sorry to be a pain, but is the public road the correct place to explore the limits.
the bmw driver might have been a pratt and gone off.
you might have been a pratt and gone off.
with luck you might not take someone else off with you,but it could be one of my family you hit!!!!
if you want to explore the limit, get on the track, or do some sprinting and hill climbing.
the bmw driver might have been a pratt and gone off.
you might have been a pratt and gone off.
with luck you might not take someone else off with you,but it could be one of my family you hit!!!!
if you want to explore the limit, get on the track, or do some sprinting and hill climbing.
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Originally Posted by stilover
Well it's deffo not my driving. Like I said, in my previous car I know I would have been all over him. There just does'nt seem to be the grip I want. It understeers far too easily.
Also if you're experiencing understeer, you've misjudged the corner and gone in too fast, I'm sure you're aware that you can boot it *out* of a corner sooner in AWD than in RWD but you have to get your entry speed right for the nose not to wash wide. All IMHO of course, based on what I've read in this thread, so please don't take offence ..
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Errrm actually yes they do need heat in them to perform, not good trying much when these are cold, but when hot..... they really do just get better (60 miles and wore out my last set with just over 2mm on them... damn they stuck to the road )
Tony
Tony
So are they R compound tyres then? I thought the whole idea of road tyres was to work from cold?
....I think you really need to try some R rated tyres.
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Originally Posted by davyboy
What? you wore them out in 60 miles???
So are they R compound tyres then? I thought the whole idea of road tyres was to work from cold?
....I think you really need to try some R rated tyres.
So are they R compound tyres then? I thought the whole idea of road tyres was to work from cold?
....I think you really need to try some R rated tyres.
I should also add, unlike most tyres, these will work when cold but they are better when they get hot, alot of tyres go off with alot of heat in them, the RE070's do the opposite, they really do get better
Tony
Last edited by TonyBurns; 05 August 2005 at 10:07 AM.
#48
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You are quite right MitcheAndr.
Roads aren't safe or ideal.
In this, and most, cases you don't know how capable the other driver is or indeed how hard he is trying.
Is the car in front/alongside/behind/in flames in the ditch std. or a hugely modified 'sleeper'?
Is the drivers floor mat jammed underneath the go pedal?
These threads are on the whole utter horse ****. It just amazes me how often the same post is . . . . . . . posted.
Yes, I know - if you don't like it don't read it . . . .
Roads aren't safe or ideal.
In this, and most, cases you don't know how capable the other driver is or indeed how hard he is trying.
Is the car in front/alongside/behind/in flames in the ditch std. or a hugely modified 'sleeper'?
Is the drivers floor mat jammed underneath the go pedal?
These threads are on the whole utter horse ****. It just amazes me how often the same post is . . . . . . . posted.
Yes, I know - if you don't like it don't read it . . . .
Last edited by 7 Foot; 05 August 2005 at 10:19 AM.
#49
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Originally Posted by Diablo
LOL
Tony, are you serious?
Directing more torque (to be more accurate) to the rear should promote oversteer under an open throttle, not understeer.
The auto setting is probably doing that anyway in those conditions. The last thing you want when the front is understeering is to introduce more power to the fronts.
Tony, are you serious?
Directing more torque (to be more accurate) to the rear should promote oversteer under an open throttle, not understeer.
The auto setting is probably doing that anyway in those conditions. The last thing you want when the front is understeering is to introduce more power to the fronts.
Tony
Last edited by TonyBurns; 05 August 2005 at 10:35 AM.
#51
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Buy an Evo, they got it right first time with ELECTRONICALLY controlled diffs. If the 05 STi DCCD was so well researched and developed, why, less than 12 months after its introduction, are Subaru already 'improving' it for then 06 facelift car???????
Plus high speed driving characteristics of a 4 wheel drive car are quite different to a front or rear wheel drive car.
Plus high speed driving characteristics of a 4 wheel drive car are quite different to a front or rear wheel drive car.
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Originally Posted by GREGGYG
Buy an Evo, they got it right first time with ELECTRONICALLY controlled diffs. If the 05 STi DCCD was so well researched and developed, why, less than 12 months after its introduction, are Subaru already 'improving' it for then 06 facelift car???????
Plus high speed driving characteristics of a 4 wheel drive car are quite different to a front or rear wheel drive car.
Plus high speed driving characteristics of a 4 wheel drive car are quite different to a front or rear wheel drive car.
Tony
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Nope it promotes oversteer with the diff all the way to the rear, remembering that oversteer is the safer option, its been designed to do so, an entire day with Evo and the diff set all the way back, i can say that it oversteers very nicely (hence my 2 front tyres copped the lot ) but the Auto setting actually oversteers the car, then afaik it opens the diff up more so the car then pulls its nose back out, well thats how it feels on the road slight oversteer with the nose going in deep then reduces it.
Tony
Tony
Or is there confusion over what the settings do as regards torque split?
Front or 4wd on a 50:50 torque setting will promote power understeer once (keeping it simple) the longitudional (engine torque) and lateral (cornering) "grip" has been exceeded. Under any given conditions, a tire has only so much "grip". under power, therefore, lateral grip will be reduced.
Put no torque through the fronts and they will have more lateral "grip" and hence less understeer.
So quite how you can say that to put more torque through the fronts promotes oversteer is somewhat of a mystery. Unless you are referrerring to the effects of the front diff "pulling" the car into the corner at speeds below the limits of the tyres ability in which case you are experiencing neither understeer nor oversteer but simply a tightening of line. The original poster was clearly exceeding the limits of the tyres as he was drifting wide.
As an aside,
1) Understeer is always acknowleded as the "safest" handling balance as aknowledged by everyman and his dog
2) An oversteering car (rear slip) will NOT wear out fronts faster than rears. Quite the opposite, in fact.