We'll need a JCB at this rate

 

Yep this is true, but doing so will make the car understeer.

Tony

 

I had the option of getting a 330ci as my company car, 32k!!!!, but I opted for a WRX wagon SL with PPP and a little styling instead, 23k!!!. Think I am stupid!, the 330 had the worst ride I have ever experienced and albeit the large grunt it did not feel half as fast as my Scoob!, oh and there was the image problem...best descision I ever made!

 

to right

i had a play with one of them above 100ish on this really decent private runway and i was a bit suprised myself

 

Go look it up in evo

BMW 330CI with 231bhp did 5.9s 0-60

A poor measure of performance - but it matched the heavyweight overgrown bugeye in acceleration

They just feel slower as they are smoother - much like my Pork which feels quite slow - but is faster against the clock than my STi 5 was when it was standard. Again the lack of turbo kick makes it feel slow - and on paper the Pork actually is slower.

Rannoch

 

LOL

 

we did our ARDS in new 330Ci sports at Rockingham, 6 guys on the track at the same time and during the test laps which you drive as fast as you can one of the lads (trigger) overtook two others (the cars we set off so that we weren't bunched up at the start) so it really is down to the drivers skill. The 330ci is well balanced and very throwable into corners with the traction control and brake distribution really keeping the car on the edge yet still fast.

 

I dont have a problem with beemers being a better handling car than scoobs. I have regularly watched CSL's dig in grip and turn through corners while my old smoker understeers like a pig trying to keep up. Yeah I know its not a CSL being discussed here but the 330i is a pretty good and quick car too.

As has been said I would imagine on two not a million miles away from eachother cars its going to be more about the driver than the equipment.

Gary

 

LOL

Tony, are you serious?

Directing more torque (to be more accurate) to the rear should promote oversteer under an open throttle, not understeer.

The auto setting is probably doing that anyway in those conditions. The last thing you want when the front is understeering is to introduce more power to the fronts.

 

sorry to be a pain, but is the public road the correct place to explore the limits.

the bmw driver might have been a pratt and gone off.
you might have been a pratt and gone off.
with luck you might not take someone else off with you,but it could be one of my family you hit!!!!
if you want to explore the limit, get on the track, or do some sprinting and hill climbing.

 

Although you may class yourself as a good driver it appears to me that the other guy was better ! Irrespective of BHP, torque, and grip, someone who knows how to throw a RWD car around is not someone with whom to mess !
Also if you're experiencing understeer, you've misjudged the corner and gone in too fast, I'm sure you're aware that you can boot it *out* of a corner sooner in AWD than in RWD but you have to get your entry speed right for the nose not to wash wide. All IMHO of course, based on what I've read in this thread, so please don't take offence ..

 

Oh for the love of God!

Did you cut and paste that or did you think of it all by yourself.

Not saying you don't have a point but FFS.

 

Yeah, it's my automatic reply generator set to go off when it detects a 'I got beat by ...' thread

 

Sorry MJW, that was aimed at MitcheAndr.

 

What? you wore them out in 60 miles???

So are they R compound tyres then? I thought the whole idea of road tyres was to work from cold?

....I think you really need to try some R rated tyres.

 

yeh i thought it was

point i was makeing is the only true way to find out is against a stop watch, or on the track.

 

They were low to start with, about 2-2.5mm left, but yes, wore them out (well the fronts) due to oversteering for 60 miles on an airfield about 1.6mm left on the rears, the fronts were down to slightly less than that

I should also add, unlike most tyres, these will work when cold but they are better when they get hot, alot of tyres go off with alot of heat in them, the RE070's do the opposite, they really do get better

Tony

 

You are quite right MitcheAndr.

Roads aren't safe or ideal.
In this, and most, cases you don't know how capable the other driver is or indeed how hard he is trying.
Is the car in front/alongside/behind/in flames in the ditch std. or a hugely modified 'sleeper'?
Is the drivers floor mat jammed underneath the go pedal?

These threads are on the whole utter horse ****. It just amazes me how often the same post is . . . . . . . posted.




Yes, I know - if you don't like it don't read it . . . .

 

Nope it promotes understeer with the diff all the way to the rear, remembering that oversteer is the safer option, its been designed to do so, an entire day with Evo and the diff set all the way back, i can say that it understeers very nicely (hence my 2 front tyres copped the lot ) but the Auto setting actually oversteers the car, then afaik it opens the diff up more so the car then pulls its nose back out, well thats how it feels on the road slight oversteer with the nose going in deep then reduces it.

Tony

 

lmao

 

Buy an Evo, they got it right first time with ELECTRONICALLY controlled diffs. If the 05 STi DCCD was so well researched and developed, why, less than 12 months after its introduction, are Subaru already 'improving' it for then 06 facelift car???????
Plus high speed driving characteristics of a 4 wheel drive car are quite different to a front or rear wheel drive car.

 

Oh no.....not a white one is it.....

 

The A-DCCD has been around since 2003, it came in with the JDM 03 model STi's, so you will always be able to improve on it, just in the SAME way that Mitsubishi have improved their ELECTRONICALLY and uncompromising controlled diffs as they are not quite as advanced as the subaru system as they dont control the power front to rear, only across axle and the latest STi has a yaw sensor, though it doesnt control cross axle it does give more feedback, and you can turn the A-DCCD off, giving you more options rather than having a computer totally control how you drive

Tony

 

Tony, are you confusing understeer and oversteer or are we down to your (IIRC) wierd definitions?

Or is there confusion over what the settings do as regards torque split?

Front or 4wd on a 50:50 torque setting will promote power understeer once (keeping it simple) the longitudional (engine torque) and lateral (cornering) "grip" has been exceeded. Under any given conditions, a tire has only so much "grip". under power, therefore, lateral grip will be reduced.

Put no torque through the fronts and they will have more lateral "grip" and hence less understeer.

So quite how you can say that to put more torque through the fronts promotes oversteer is somewhat of a mystery. Unless you are referrerring to the effects of the front diff "pulling" the car into the corner at speeds below the limits of the tyres ability in which case you are experiencing neither understeer nor oversteer but simply a tightening of line. The original poster was clearly exceeding the limits of the tyres as he was drifting wide.

As an aside,

1) Understeer is always acknowleded as the "safest" handling balance as aknowledged by everyman and his dog

2) An oversteering car (rear slip) will NOT wear out fronts faster than rears. Quite the opposite, in fact.

 

Sorry you are correct, it promotes understeer, ive only just got out of bed
But all the way back, lots of fun but not on your front tyres......

Tony

 

Good work Tony.

PMSL

 

lol

You've sussed it now

 

Anyone got a homer simpson gif going DOH?

Tony

 

I'll bet you've confused the f*ck out of stilover though

 

lol

Tony