Stop whining

You need to break the 40 year rule and buy some pry bars Graham.
Or as we say..
Stop trying to touch it up and get abusive with it!


Andy

 

Here's a tempter...............

eBay.co.uk: Peugeot 206 WRC Cosworth Race / Rally / Track Car (05) (item 160081348854 end time 12-Feb-07 16:43:25 GMT)

If only!!!!!!!!

 

LOL @ Andy!
How you do this for a living I'll never know.
10 second job turns to a 10 hour one.
Just bought 2 horrendous looking levers to attack it.

Mind you, I'm flat on my back on a garage floor without a Snap-On tool chest!

My excuse for whingin' anyway...
Graham.

Martin: THE tempter is PowerStations Type C........

 

I've only had nice ramps to work on in the last two years
Plenty of big hammers and drifts before that.

The race car is for sale Graham.

Andy

 

I just used a standard crowbar (gemmy) I raided from my dad's workshop....nothing special, popped out a treat...getting them back in again could be fun though as it will be into a Quaife, which I understand can be a bit random

 

a snip at £55,000

 

i wonder if pouring money into glorified road cars is worth it sometimes when you see ex works rally cars for £13k.....

 

Well...have bent a pry-bar trying to remove the CV from the diff.
Diff out of the car now and still can't shift it.

I think i will have to saw the cv off the diff and have API strip it all and remove the splined stub some how out of the diff 'half'.

What a mess.

Maybe with the thing apart I can find the right cv for the plated diff.

Talk about 5 steps forward, 10 steps back.

Graham.

 

Rob: you are right about modding road car. Just buy a real race car.

The price for the PS Type C must be a typo..a Zero too many?

Getting tired of all this messing about, but I hope API will find a cure.

Graham

 

thats the figure they mentioned to my old man when they heard he was looking for a new car, I am talking about their own time attack car.

 

Bent a pry bar
What were they made of.. Chocolate!
Sharp "Thwacks" are better than steady but heavy pressure.

 

Chin up mate, if it makes you feel any better your progress reports do make an interesting read. When your on the start line of your home track for the first meeting in the midlands champs with new diffs, short box, slicks, dccd + launch button it will all be worth it and you can look back and laugh.

 

It is all apart now. Put the 1/2'' socket extension in the diff to the end of the cv shaft and gave it 3 huge thumps with the lump hammer and it flew out.
Along with 1/2 the broken C clip too.
Found the rest still in the groove so fished it out with a magnetic stick which was a godsend.

Taking a closer look as to why this all this happened it is obvious that the C clip groove is in the wrong place by about 10mm, so when the original clip sprang into location it would not enter the diff further so the bearing shoulder was not fully engaged with the bearing.
So, to a big lathe tomorrow at work to machine a fresh C clip groove to match the groove in the LSD spine.

Found the correct location of the diff groove by pressing a large ball of bluetak into the spline'goove area and measured all the dimensions off that when extracted, a bit like a plasti-gage principle.
A summary pic, but this is just to warn anyone trying this diff change. My advice would be to buy a complete rear end! (or better still a Type R)
The clip groove shoud be where the pen is pointing.


Anyway, that's sunday gone.

 

exactly the problem i had getting my drive shafts into my diff, untill realised the groove was in the wrong place!

 

Note to self...dry run on the bench with the Quaife when it's fitted in Steven's old R160

 

I would have thought the Subaru designers would have standardised on all this lot!
Maddening!

Still, nearly done now. Might even drive it next weekend..
Graham

 

Tim:
Bloody right you should. Check all the groove positions!

 

All the toys... I mean tools, back in their box now then??


Andy

 

No! Too much messing about on simple stuff and no progress.
The first hill climb practice weekend is only 5 weekends away and the car has not run on the dccd and has no MoT etc.
The list is still long, and it needs to get to PowerStation yet!!

Toys back in box when it has done it's first event on slicks and the dccd works.
I don't have your patience

Graham

 

It didn't go to plan..
In the end I have asked API to give me advice, and all is clear, done and dusted tonight!

It is easy when you sit down and think a bit (and make a phone call).

There are 2 tricks here.

But first, the 3 culprits:

The good guy is the middle one:


When you fit the plated diff:


You take the drive shaft of the viscous lsd from the O/side of the car and stick it in the N/side of the plated diff, BUT, you have to put the clip into the diff not on the shaft.

If you do not do this it does not work.

So, after this little '5 steps forward, 5 steps back' episode, I expect to get the rear end back in on friday afternoon and the car down off the stands and onto the garage floor.

As a bit of light relief, I am thinking of lowering the car a bit more prior to a day at PowerStation for a suspension tweek by Curtis for the Avon slicks.

another 20mm?

Graham.

 

Good to see you've got it sorted, don't forget not to lower the front too much, mcpherson struts don't like going too low, sure you know that though

 

Fair enough, but i think the AST 3 ways have a lot of suspension 'stroke' to them.
My concern would be for the driveshafts (obsessed by the bloody things atm) and the angles they would run, especially at the back. where they are pretty angled already.

 

It's not so much the struts you need to worry about Graham, I ended up lowering my car too far, which resulted in the lower arms being nigh on parallel with the ground. This meant that unless I took the car by the scruff of the neck and really threw it around I had virtually no suspension movement at the front...in short it was undrivable. Having refitted the suspension again with new top mounts I've raised the ride height considerably, and lo-and-behold discovered that despite having 350lb front springs there is suspension movement!

 

You won't be able to drive it on the road if its too low either (speed bumps and stuff)

F

 

Thanks for the comments as ever.

The diff is back in now (god, I'm getting good at taking transmissions apart!) and the driveshafts look right and fully located.

Came to start the engine to run the diff and....the battery is dead. Left the drivers door open for 2 weeks = flat but FLAT battery, and with the cold too..

Hope to run it tomorrow.

Might try just 10mm lower!

 

Everything seems to work, the rear cv's stay put, the brakes seem to work, and I've driven it out of the garage with the rear plated diff creeking along with a 'gentler' creek from the front plated diff!

Nearly there now.

A few bling pics:

Interior get more boy racer by the day

Bling:


Graham.

 

looking good Graham, very nice.

you don't want to be informed of oil temp/pressure, boost, etc??

 

Apexi FC gives the water temp so the oil will be close to that.
The boost can be read off the commander too.

If there are any other probs the dash will light-up!

You can have too much information!

Graham

 

pics like this make me realise just how unready I am, my new wheels are ready and should be on by the end of the week so at least I can get it out of the garage. Car looks good graham, be interested as to where powerstation want to take it next on a handling level, are you going to the currborough test day on the 18/3?

 

At the rate I'm going Rob I won't be at the Loton weekend. (brake probs)

Really wonder if this is really worth it.

All this for a point a meeting maybe?

If i crack my brakes then I wont do Curb even though I am a long standing member.
I hope to get a private day there soon if the car works.

I plan to do the sat at Loton.

I tried very hard to get your membership of Hagley overthrown by telling them what a rotter you are, but everyone boo'd me and you got in!

Nothing is fair in this world!

Graham