What a day, left the car today and felt so depressed.

Started well with the PS adaptor sorted and filled up with fluid, the belt I bought from halfords was way to short so need to exchange that.

Wired up the gauges and noticed an error message and no oil pressure light, about 2 hours later realised i'd connected the water and oil sensors the wrong way round.

Filled the car with oil again, and boosted the battery. Car turned over OK but the oil light stayed on and the pressure gauge read zero. Disconnected the pressure sensor and sure enough no oil.

At this point I made a silly mistake I checked all the wiring including the cam sensor and reconnected it all (Can you see where we going). I went back to the gauges and no error messages so I give it a quick turn of the key and the engine busts in to life at a steady idle. It all happened so slowly but the engine ran the length of time it took to turn the key to stop.

Good news it that it runs and started first time! and it sound awesome. Bad news is I hope I've not damaged anything!!!!!

Anyway I was packing up I thought I can smell oil, a quick look underneath and I could see a large puddle of fresh oil. On closer inspection its pissing out the top of the modine.

So please somebody tell me that I've forgot to replace a gasket between the modine and the filter

Mark A

 

did you do up the large 24mm bolt / stud that the filter bolts to and hold the modine on? needs a deep 24mm socket.

Simon

 

Hopefully there was enough assembly grease on the big ends.. but I would remove the plugs and turn it over to get oil pressure and remove any pressure on the big ends.

Simon

 

Yes the filter bolt was tight and the modine does not move. I surprised it seals with no gaskets?

Mark

 

wondering if it has an oil seal at the top.. just replied to your other thread.

I just unbolted and bolted to my new engine as old engine was still a runner etc.. sorry unable to help further..

Simon

 

Mark, to help get the oil up to pressure on turning over, with plugs out and sensors disconnected, it's also worth filling the oil galleries first. To do this remove the oil pressure switch and put a funnel in the hole it leaves, then fill this up with engine oil, should take around 0.5 litres. Then turn the engine over by hand to help move oil around and check the galleries again, before refitting the pressure switch and turning the engine over till the oil light goes out...HTH

 

Just looked on the internet and I'm missing a large O ring, muppet

Cheers Tim, I thought about that and will do it when I try again

Mark

 

So close now, teething probs only. Running in soon.

Graham.

 

Eek, your not the only one to turn an engine over like that. I know someone who did it with no oil at all...

F

 

kill it?

 

With no load to speak of it'll be fine

 

Well spent Saturday morning working on the car.

1. removed the modine and replaced the gasket then tightened it all back up. The modine still moved slightly so retightened with a bit more torque and sealed OK
2. Managed sort the sump bolts out bar 1 which path is blocked by the PS pipe will try again later
3. Bought another alternator belt but just too short so need to go back to Halfords again

With the oil leak fixed cranked the car but oil pressure filled the oil ways from the top and tried again, the battery started to fail. Boosted it and he presto the oil light goes out but the gauge showed no pressure . I think I might need to read the manual for SPA as it seems to display an error message.

Replaced the cam sensor connector and turned the ignition on and the engine fired first time and idled at at 2.5k rpm let it run for a couple of minutes and noticed water running down the back of the engine. Switched off and investigated. One of the turbo water pipes has come off so need to replace the clip.

Happy with the engine, sounded very smooth but not happy with the idle. I think I need to plug the laptop in and see what the Link is doing or seeing. I've changed so many bits I not surprised its having problems. The main problem may be I've disconnected the throttle sensor on the inlet because I'm using a later inlet manifold and throttle. I believe that the Link does not use this but I might need confirmation.

Mark A

 

Mark

Keep going its not far off now, which is more than can be said for mine, glad all you guys out there are keeping us mortals imformed on how to go about things.

John

 

SPA Oil pressure should read 0.0 with engine off..

do you mean you disconnected one of the 4 wires on the throttle position sensor? phase 1.5 tps uses 3 wires, phase 1 uses 4 wires.. Link only uses the 3 as the 4th as an idle indication.. Link uses the tps position rather than the extra wire.

Simon

 

It's also looking for the TPS signal working in a falling rate rather than Rising as on the later manifold/TPS, 0v + 5v wires need to be reversed.

 

Good point John! I cannot remember off the top of my head the wire colours and what goes where.. I know Kev (Flat4) documented it in his thread in Projects.

Simon

 

Thanks for the reply Simon

Just to clarify I have unplugged the connector on the throttle body. If this needs to be connected then the 4 wires from the old loom (insitu) connect to the later version 3 pin plug on the TB, minus one but not sure which one

Mark A

 

possibly why it is idling high then.

I'll look up the wiring when I get time..

Unless John knows it?

Simon

 

Yes that might explain the high idle, appreciate the help Simon

Regards Mark

 

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...299777&page=25

TPS wiring for you Mark

 

Excellent.... saves me searching through pages and pages of Kev's errrmmm posts

 

indeed

 

Yesterday was a day of oil leaks

Started well with swapping the wiring over for the TPS, soldered the wires up. (Big thanks to Simon & Kev)
Still had a leak from the rear of the sump, one bolt was missing so finally managed to get enough clearance to get the last one in so hopefully that's fixed.
Last week noticed that one of the water pipes on the turbo had popped off so replaced that (Why is it always the one thats hardest to get to?)

Filled the car with oil again and fired it up, now have oil pressure of 3.9 bar from cold at fast idle.
Anyway checked the water hose only to notice more liquid running down the up-pipe, stopped the engine and discovered that the turbo oil supply pipe connnection on the block was pissing oil out. Arrrgggghhhh off I go again stripping back parts to get to the culprit. Couple of hours later its tight and go to check the oil level which is very low and don't have enough to bring it up to a safe level to run the engine.

I will buy some more oil on my way to work and check it for leaks.

Got a bit bored and started playing with the seats, I've removed the passenger seat in the hope I can cut the two ends of the seat rail and then weld to some sparco brackets I have.

Finally can anybody identify this part, its labelled GM


Don't have any other pictures at the moment, the camera battery went flat. It has a 3 pin plug on the other side and a small black hose

 

look like the GM 3bar map sensor..

Think I have pictures of one I had on my car at one point somewhere..

I'll be back

Simon

 

Found it..

http://jollygreenmonster.fotopic.net/p1820694.html

3bar map sensor for use with the Link ecu.

Simon

 

Think I still have some spare seat rails if you need them

 

I spent a merry morning getting and dis-assembling 2 Sport seats, eventually getting to the runner bits and welding all the steel work to provide good supports for the racing seat mounts (they are alloy) to bolt to.

Worked a treat but the seating position was as high as the stock seat so not good for racing.

Went back to the static brackets I made 2 years ago and now sit 50mm min lower in the shell = so much better.

Kev (Flat4) bought some Bird mounts for his car, but never heard what he feels about them since.

Very personal thing of course but at 5-10/12 stone it is much easier to drive in a lower position for me.
Worth doing Mark to relieve you of all the other worries in the car.I find this kind of cut-n-shut very relaxing........

Graham

 

Graham

Good therapy, not getting covered in oil & water or both

I think I will butcher the current brackets to fit the Subaru mounts as close to floor as possible. Slightly apprehensive about welding in the car with carpets etc.

Iain

Do you mean standard seat runners/brackets?

Also do you have brackets for a rear STi brembo conversion or just standard rear 2 pots?

Simon

What connector did you use (As I don't seem to have the other end/connector) and what is involved in converting to the later 3 bar MAP? I presume once fitted the Link would need a re-map/re-scale

John

The doors, are they steel or composite?

Mark A

 

I bought it with the connector from the US..

It was then a case of wiring the 5volt supply, ground and signal and yes then remap it for the new map sensor. However unless you intend running mega boost it is not worth it.. either stick with the standard map sensor and go off the top of the map with a boost controller, or use a Subaru 2.5bar map sensor off the newer car.. iirc it then goes into the top row at 1.3bar, although the number of rows lower down is reduced this does seem to work rather well.

Simon

 

See other thread