More and more Scoob engine failures!!
14 March 2005, 11:55 PM
#31
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EVOs engines are just as prone to failure though, i believe i read that there was a mass recall of EVO 7s and 8s as a lot of customers engines were letting go, VERY early in their lives....
Just thank god you dont have an RX7!! rebuild every couple of years if used a fair bit!
Just thank god you dont have an RX7!! rebuild every couple of years if used a fair bit!
14 March 2005, 11:56 PM
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oh and another reason for hearing about more of them letting go is that theres so many of them on the road :P !! (in comparison to evos anyway 
)
)
15 March 2005, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Deep Singh
Even more shocking. If David has rebuilt 600 engines himself then how many rebuilt across the country? Its got to be thousands and thousands.
I understand some will have not been properly loved, but thats not the case in anywhere near all of them.
Though a high powered highly tuned turbo car needs to be treated with respect it should'nt have to be treated like a newborn baby.
Evos(for example) will have also had exhaust/filters fitted, been run on bad fuel,revved hard etc etc but you d'ont hear about thousands(or appropriate %age) of them going bang.
David mentions 90% of cars were on low fuel. So someone has a rough day at work forgets to top up and ends up with a £5k bill, thats bad build quality not a lack of respect for a performance car, is'nt it?
Owning a Scoob seems to be an exercise in extreme vigilance
And before someone has a fit and accuses me of slating Scoobs, thats not my intention, I'm just discussing the issues with the like minded
Deep
I understand some will have not been properly loved, but thats not the case in anywhere near all of them.
Though a high powered highly tuned turbo car needs to be treated with respect it should'nt have to be treated like a newborn baby.
Evos(for example) will have also had exhaust/filters fitted, been run on bad fuel,revved hard etc etc but you d'ont hear about thousands(or appropriate %age) of them going bang.
David mentions 90% of cars were on low fuel. So someone has a rough day at work forgets to top up and ends up with a £5k bill, thats bad build quality not a lack of respect for a performance car, is'nt it?
Owning a Scoob seems to be an exercise in extreme vigilance
And before someone has a fit and accuses me of slating Scoobs, thats not my intention, I'm just discussing the issues with the like minded
Deep
With respect to Evos, I think there are far more JDM Scoobies in the country that are available for tuning. I'm not in a position to comment about Evo engines as I dont know enough about them, but its logical to assume that with any car, misuse and poor mods and servicing would lead to a limited engine life. Perhaps the very short Evo servicing interval helps
. In tandem, any newby worth his salt would do some research on the marque and understand the car. Its the nature of the game that if you are entering the JDM market, you're stepping away from the comfort zone of the UK warranty and UK backup. You then need to understand whats required to keep the car and if you do mods, then again you need to know what you are letting yourself in for as there's no warranty and no comeback! If you want to minimise the risk, then stay away from *any* JDM car and sit safely with a UK spec motor. Plus some of the JDM Scoobies come into this country with no traceable SH...
.Its also unfortunate for some owners that the car will let go despite being perfectly looked after. In all, its these experiences that can be passed on to other owners to help eliminate problems with their car - hence sharing SN knowledge
I think this is a bit of the 'glass is half-empty' thread at the moment. I care to look at Scoobs in general as being a thoroughly reliable car (touchwood
) when the car is treated respectfully and looked after properly. My glass is definitely half-full at moment.
15 March 2005, 11:39 AM
#34
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Hmmm, more comment and facts then;
90% of our work is on JDM cars including Legacy turbo and twin turbo. MAYBE 5% of our work is on LOW POWER uk cars whixh still wreck the crank at around 125,000 upwards. 100,000 is Ok, much lower than that and you've been cheated LOL.
Crank bearings on all modern cars are very small, it's a cost and friction thing. I understand the bearings on a con rod on an F1 engine are no bigger than Subaru EJ20 and are coping with nearly a 1000bhp and
revolving 316 times a SECOND.
Different material certainly but still working rather hard. Mind boggling and just a blur really. Do the maths: 19000 revs per minute 19000 divide by 60....................
The sump thing is a valid comment and really affects competition cars mostly. However, many of our failures are listed as high speed motorway work where side surge is not an issue.
Subaru Impreza engines do not go wrong in any quantity in Japan and I believe that some Aussies that get on here advise much the same in OZ.
It has to be UK circumstances that affect these engines, either the high speed continuous work or the fuel or general use abuse. Inherently the engine is a good one and after we have chatted to our customers about care. maintenance, and general use we have a very good record of satisfaction from them. Flame suit on !!
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
90% of our work is on JDM cars including Legacy turbo and twin turbo. MAYBE 5% of our work is on LOW POWER uk cars whixh still wreck the crank at around 125,000 upwards. 100,000 is Ok, much lower than that and you've been cheated LOL.
Crank bearings on all modern cars are very small, it's a cost and friction thing. I understand the bearings on a con rod on an F1 engine are no bigger than Subaru EJ20 and are coping with nearly a 1000bhp and
revolving 316 times a SECOND.
Different material certainly but still working rather hard. Mind boggling and just a blur really. Do the maths: 19000 revs per minute 19000 divide by 60....................
The sump thing is a valid comment and really affects competition cars mostly. However, many of our failures are listed as high speed motorway work where side surge is not an issue.
Subaru Impreza engines do not go wrong in any quantity in Japan and I believe that some Aussies that get on here advise much the same in OZ.
It has to be UK circumstances that affect these engines, either the high speed continuous work or the fuel or general use abuse. Inherently the engine is a good one and after we have chatted to our customers about care. maintenance, and general use we have a very good record of satisfaction from them. Flame suit on !!
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
15 March 2005, 01:11 PM
#35
Originally Posted by APIDavid
Hmmm, more comment and facts then;
90% of our work is on JDM cars including Legacy turbo and twin turbo. MAYBE 5% of our work is on LOW POWER uk cars whixh still wreck the crank at around 125,000 upwards. 100,000 is Ok, much lower than that and you've been cheated LOL.
Crank bearings on all modern cars are very small, it's a cost and friction thing. I understand the bearings on a con rod on an F1 engine are no bigger than Subaru EJ20 and are coping with nearly a 1000bhp and
revolving 316 times a SECOND.
Different material certainly but still working rather hard. Mind boggling and just a blur really. Do the maths: 19000 revs per minute 19000 divide by 60....................
The sump thing is a valid comment and really affects competition cars mostly. However, many of our failures are listed as high speed motorway work where side surge is not an issue.
Subaru Impreza engines do not go wrong in any quantity in Japan and I believe that some Aussies that get on here advise much the same in OZ.
It has to be UK circumstances that affect these engines, either the high speed continuous work or the fuel or general use abuse. Inherently the engine is a good one and after we have chatted to our customers about care. maintenance, and general use we have a very good record of satisfaction from them. Flame suit on !!
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
90% of our work is on JDM cars including Legacy turbo and twin turbo. MAYBE 5% of our work is on LOW POWER uk cars whixh still wreck the crank at around 125,000 upwards. 100,000 is Ok, much lower than that and you've been cheated LOL.
Crank bearings on all modern cars are very small, it's a cost and friction thing. I understand the bearings on a con rod on an F1 engine are no bigger than Subaru EJ20 and are coping with nearly a 1000bhp and
revolving 316 times a SECOND.
Different material certainly but still working rather hard. Mind boggling and just a blur really. Do the maths: 19000 revs per minute 19000 divide by 60....................
The sump thing is a valid comment and really affects competition cars mostly. However, many of our failures are listed as high speed motorway work where side surge is not an issue.
Subaru Impreza engines do not go wrong in any quantity in Japan and I believe that some Aussies that get on here advise much the same in OZ.
It has to be UK circumstances that affect these engines, either the high speed continuous work or the fuel or general use abuse. Inherently the engine is a good one and after we have chatted to our customers about care. maintenance, and general use we have a very good record of satisfaction from them. Flame suit on !!
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
our beloved motors.
Rob
15 March 2005, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfelstead
if the remap is carried out properly, the engine should be in a safer condition after the remap, this is especially the case with JDM spec cars which are setup for 100RON fuel in OEM spec. If the remap isnt done properly, prepare for a big bill.
Jza
15 March 2005, 01:33 PM
#37
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speedo clicked over to 160,000miles yesterday
Car has a FMIC, TD05, Link ecu mapped by me..
I bought the car with 78,000miles on the clock and it was totally standard at the time.. no evidence in the comprehensive history of a rebuild.
{touch wood}
Car has a FMIC, TD05, Link ecu mapped by me..
I bought the car with 78,000miles on the clock and it was totally standard at the time.. no evidence in the comprehensive history of a rebuild.
{touch wood}
15 March 2005, 03:09 PM
#38
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Thanks for all the input, especially the expertise of David APi.
I think my point really is that owning/running a classic Scoob is a continual excercise in vigilance. This can be said to be true of many high powered cars, but in the last 10 years( RX7 excepted perhaps) the Scoob tops the chart.
There was a comment above that seemed to say that the Scoob was'nt really designed for sustained runs above 100 mph and that was almost abuse/misuse of the car!! The STi is a 280 BHP car with 140mph on the clock made in the latter part of the 20th century, I'd expect it to be able to cruise at 110 mph everyday!!
I think my point really is that owning/running a classic Scoob is a continual excercise in vigilance. This can be said to be true of many high powered cars, but in the last 10 years( RX7 excepted perhaps) the Scoob tops the chart.
There was a comment above that seemed to say that the Scoob was'nt really designed for sustained runs above 100 mph and that was almost abuse/misuse of the car!! The STi is a 280 BHP car with 140mph on the clock made in the latter part of the 20th century, I'd expect it to be able to cruise at 110 mph everyday!!
15 March 2005, 03:20 PM
#39
Most reliable car I have owned. Have done 50k miles on it myself and it puts up with my abusive driving. Have done trackdays, drag strips and am generally heavy footed. Engine has never missed a beat or needed a single thing doing for any of its MOTs. Irregularly serviced (by myself) and lighly modded. Only repair I've ever had to make on it was a loose nut in gearbox which didnt stop me driving it.
MY99 cleaned up with customer satisfaction surveys (JD Power) for its year.
Very happy with the car and have never felt the need for breakdown cover.
Bob
MY99 cleaned up with customer satisfaction surveys (JD Power) for its year.
Very happy with the car and have never felt the need for breakdown cover.
Bob
15 March 2005, 03:28 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Give me a bell when you've done 100K
Similar to you Bob only mine is a 96.. most reliable car I have owned and I have had nothing go to my knowledge that was not wear a tear, clutch being the most expensive.. £85 Borg and Beck that I fitted myself..
touch more wood..
15 March 2005, 03:46 PM
#42
Already saw yours My friend who is dealer is driving a '95 about with 120K, can't confirm the engine orginality though until I cross/ref the engine no's.
Point being anywhere between 100 and 150K is what I'd expect see as the maximum typical design limit of the engines intended lifespan before it has to be re-built
Personally, I'd strip at 100K-120K get out the dial guages and calipers and have a look and replace the rings and shells as a matter of routine - but that's the way I am Although I'd have the break my own rule of "if it ain't broke don't fix"
My friend who is dealer is driving a '95 about with 120K, can't confirm the engine orginality though until I cross/ref the engine no's.Point being anywhere between 100 and 150K is what I'd expect see as the maximum typical design limit of the engines intended lifespan before it has to be re-built
Personally, I'd strip at 100K-120K get out the dial guages and calipers and have a look and replace the rings and shells as a matter of routine - but that's the way I am
Although I'd have the break my own rule of "if it ain't broke don't fix"
15 March 2005, 03:49 PM
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engine numbers correspond on mine but it still might have been rebuilt.
I thought about stripping and rebuilding but it runs too well for me to do it.. also interested to see how long she will last..
hopefully pass 200k.. just cursed it no doubt.
I thought about stripping and rebuilding but it runs too well for me to do it.. also interested to see how long she will last..
hopefully pass 200k.. just cursed it no doubt.
15 March 2005, 04:48 PM
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With JDM cars, they can't go above 112mph without de-limiting and chimes go off if you go faster than 86(!?). There was a post a while back about attitudes to speeding in Japan being against it. Most don't and the few that organise midnight runs on the highway harden opinion further.
Australia is draconian on speeding from what I've read.
Maybe UK people have more opportunity to mis-behave....and thus break things.
J.
Australia is draconian on speeding from what I've read.
Maybe UK people have more opportunity to mis-behave....and thus break things.
J.
15 March 2005, 05:01 PM
#45
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Punkie,
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
16 March 2005, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by APIDavid
Punkie,
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
I cannot recommend Motul 300V 15W50 oil enough though!
16 March 2005, 01:12 PM
#47
Originally Posted by APIDavid
Punkie,
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
16 March 2005, 08:01 PM
#48
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Another one, Keep the oil level ON THE MARK! just under will increase your n.o 3 leg out of bed problem a lot , I run over full , but I don`t have a MAF or breather system to think about :-) (over full will kill your MAF on MY > ??)
Have a good one
Tim
Have a good one
Tim
19 March 2005, 06:19 PM
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Supposition is that they've not learnt how to drive it properly yet and rev the brains out of it and it won't take it. The red line is created by Subaru, but in practise the actual advisable red line on a standard car is some 500 rpm below the mark on the dial.
is the damage the high revs or hitting the limiter? , as in , the high revs cause rod bolts to stretch then it spins a bearing or that banging off the limiter compresses the big ends leading to failure?
19 March 2005, 10:15 PM
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Newbie question for you peeps here.
Is this the same for even the newer scoobs or are they too new to tell yet. Reason i ask is that i am picking up a uk MY03 STI on the 1st of may and want to know how strong the engines are. I do like to play a little when road conditions permit and i don't want any nasty bills.
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me
Is this the same for even the newer scoobs or are they too new to tell yet. Reason i ask is that i am picking up a uk MY03 STI on the 1st of may and want to know how strong the engines are. I do like to play a little when road conditions permit and i don't want any nasty bills.
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me
20 March 2005, 08:16 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by aaronhowe
Newbie question for you peeps here.
Is this the same for even the newer scoobs or are they too new to tell yet. Reason i ask is that i am picking up a uk MY03 STI on the 1st of may and want to know how strong the engines are. I do like to play a little when road conditions permit and i don't want any nasty bills.
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me
Is this the same for even the newer scoobs or are they too new to tell yet. Reason i ask is that i am picking up a uk MY03 STI on the 1st of may and want to know how strong the engines are. I do like to play a little when road conditions permit and i don't want any nasty bills.
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me
I'll let someone more knowledgable answer the turbo cool down issue
20 March 2005, 08:39 PM
#52
[.
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me[/QUOTE]
Rather than leaving the engine ticking over drive the last few miles off boost then let it tick over for a short time before shutting down. After a blast and a few chilled out miles I let my car tick over for 30 secs or so before shutting down
Also does the new STI have an oil pump that runs after the car is turned off or do you still have to wait for the turbo to cool down before turning the engine off? Lastly if its doesn't how long should you leave it running for as a good cool down time?
Thanks for any help people can give me
[/QUOTE] Rather than leaving the engine ticking over drive the last few miles off boost then let it tick over for a short time before shutting down. After a blast and a few chilled out miles I let my car tick over for 30 secs or so before shutting down
21 March 2005, 08:29 PM
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same here
i am the same got a y plate v6 had it for 2 years serviced every 5 months and oil changed by myself every month, fully synthetic every day, only small mods zorst air filter ect ect. went out the other dayfor a scratch and bugger bang
yep its fcuked, no smoke, i think its the big end bearing so its getting rebuilt so thats another one on the market with a rebuild, but its getting done by a scoob dealer not back street bangers lol.....
so good luck every one and dont go over 70mph 147 means bang
yep its fcuked, no smoke, i think its the big end bearing so its getting rebuilt so thats another one on the market with a rebuild, but its getting done by a scoob dealer not back street bangers lol.....
so good luck every one and dont go over 70mph 147 means bang
22 March 2005, 01:18 PM
#56
Originally Posted by wibb20
So if i was to buy a standard UK Scoob, and run with the usual oil/warm up/down/SUL precautions, can i expect a relaiable car? Or should i stick to my Volvo!?
Like i said. Mine has never missed a beat. Abused and irregularly serviced.
4 years and 50k.
Bob
22 March 2005, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by APIDavid
Punkie,
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Warm it up, Cool it down.
Change the oil and filter, the approved way, every 3000 miles for a quality semi or fully synth of 10W or 15W something.
Run it on Optimax forever.
Stay 500 rpm below the rev counter red line.
That oughta do it.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
Nice to have the input of a professional who sees the circumstances under which most failures occur. I've had my MY99 for 6 months now and adhere to all of the above. IIRC Classics produce their peak power at 5.5k anyway, so if I'm 'using' (ahem) the loud pedal :-) I always change up around 6k. All that happens after this point is that you get an increase in noise....and -apparently- an increased risk of making your engine go pop! I will admit to having stalled a couple of times....I hope that didn't hurt my baby too much ;-)
A comment on here got my attention about feeling what the car is doing. About 3 months into ownership, I was convinced the car wasn't idling as evenly as it had before. It was only a very slight fluctuation, but I wasn't happy. Took it to Xtreme and sure enough, I'd spotted a Maf in the initial stages of failing. if i'd have continued to drive the car like this chances are I would have seriously damaged the engine sonner rather than later.
From my perspective I can say that I've seen and heard a lot about people who do one or several of the following:drive their cars like they've stole them all the time, not bothering to warm up or cool down, fitting ill advised mods, using crappy fuel/oil. Sorry, but if you treat your engine with contempt/neglect, you should expect problems! What is a pity is when a newbie buys one of these cars 2nd hand just as it's about to expire; that really hurts the reputation of what is generally regarded in customer satisfaction surveys as a VERY reliable car.
My car is very precious to me, I treat it accordingly.
David- as a result of the above- I hope you won't take it the wrong way if I say that I hope we never have to meet! .......well, at least not for a rebuild!
22 March 2005, 05:54 PM
#58
Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
From my perspective I can say that I've seen and heard a lot about people who do one or several of the following:drive their cars like they've stole them all the time, not bothering to warm up or cool down, fitting ill advised mods, using crappy fuel/oil. Sorry, but if you treat your engine with contempt/neglect, you should expect problems! What is a pity is when a newbie buys one of these cars 2nd hand just as it's about to expire; that really hurts the reputation of what is generally regarded in customer satisfaction surveys as a VERY reliable car.
They are production cars and as such the manufacturers, manufacture them so that they do take a fair bit of abuse and dont require warming up before driving, cooling down etc. Its good practice as with any car; not to rag it when its cold; service regularly;not do silly mods. They are also designed to run on plain old unleaded (95ron).
You're not expected to be an expert, or even an enthusiast for the car to run and run without probs.
Jap imports are a different story though.
Bob
22 March 2005, 06:33 PM
#59
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
IMO
You're not expected to be an expert, or even an enthusiast for the car to run and run without probs.
Bob
You're not expected to be an expert, or even an enthusiast for the car to run and run without probs.
Bob
It's a two way street; the manufacturer does its part to give you as least to do as possible, you do your part not to undermine their good work IMHO -and I hope I don't sound patronising- when something means a lot to a person and/or costs a lot then it's not too much to ask to do a little bit of research as to how to look after it properly. For example, reading David's post takes about 30 secs and might save someone a VERY big bill! It's certainly not unreasonable of the manufacturer to ask that you look after it as they've specified; they built it afterall
I'm not saying that everyone should go out and take qualifications in mechanical engineering, or even spend ages on here (ahem)
but I have a distinct impression that treating the car with a bit of respect will go a long way to keeping it healthy. Regards,
NS04