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Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.

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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #511  
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Mark, no: Just running a 3 port boost valve.
There is no Check light on the dash, all is normal.
Ticked-over perfectly until this morning.

I will strip the Idle control valve again tomorrow evening.

Graham.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 12:35 AM
  #512  
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Probably that ISCV Graham, or it could be the throttle position sensor slack, out of position or its electrical connection ?

Andy
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 07:13 AM
  #513  
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Thanks Andy and everyone, will check all around those areas tonight.
Racing for real in 4 weeks time, so no need to ruch for a change.
Graham.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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good to see it's going like stink Graham i'm so not tempted to have a go
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 05:47 PM
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Graham,

Christ..... that took some reading!!!

Excellent log of events and no doubt you are pleased with the results.

Hats off to all involved!

Regards,
Shaun.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:17 PM
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can anyone advise me am looking to fit sti 8 cooler on sti v4 been offered v7 cooler is there any differance
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 07:07 AM
  #517  
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If you want to maximise the benefit of the larger TMIC, then fit the bigest one you can (for the price).
At about £200 cost the Sti8 is big, cheap and easy to get.
If your mods to the rest of the engine are reasonable then I suspect that the difference is 'small', just make sure it is an Sti version.

Graham.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 07:39 AM
  #518  
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Fitting a boost gauge soon to the car.
Where is the best place/pipe to 'T' into and ensure the minimum of gauge flutter?
Gauge is a 2 bar full scale range Mocal 52mm.

Graham.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 08:17 AM
  #519  
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DV feed
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:42 AM
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Or off the inlet manifold ... see the photo below - mine now comes off where the little black stopper is fitted on this old photo....

http://www.wildsworld.co.uk/images/boost1.jpg
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:13 PM
  #521  
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Flin,

Just fitted an STI7/8 cooler to my MY98 WRX!!

As far as I know they are the same for all the new age STI's. Have a word with David at API Engines to confirm.

Also, a big thanks to Graham for his time in posting his work on this thread, as it all came in very handy today while fitting my new IC!

Cheers,

Wayne.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Mark, on my car that 'little black stopper' is connected to something...?

Never the less that's where i took the boost signal for my AVC-R from. I took the signal for my boost gauge from the D/V connection behind it. With hindsight i'd have tapped the AVC-R into the pipework for the boost gauge to save cutting two OE pipes.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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Fairy Snuff - The take-off for the D/V is blocked now on mine, as I don't run one - but any of the two (or indeed the ones on the other side of the IM) would do...

Mark
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 08:11 PM
  #524  
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Sounds good.
Getting the boost gauge tomorrow (ebay) so will sort that and the non-existant tick-over out this weekend.

Graham.
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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Just got back from a blast in the car after thinking I've sorted the non existant tick-over, but...

Took the Idle valve off again and checked everything, it all moves smoothly, no dirt/debis etc so put it all back.
Checked every tube off the inlet manifold, all is well.

Started the engine from stone cold, no tickover. Took about 2mm out of the throttle cable adjustment by the throttle body.
Started it again (always fires up well) and held the throttle on the pedal till warm and s l o w l y eased off and it held tick over at 8/900.

Took it for a run and a half.

Got home and it would not tick over where it had done throughout the journey!

Now, does the Apexi ignore 'mechanical' throttle position off the sensor?
Anyone have any ideas for me to look at next?

This condition literally arrived over night, perfect last saturday, won't tickover after the hill climb blasts, must be related to flat-out running or something?
When hot and at 800 rpm, the maf voltage is 1000 mV/970mV
Injector duty very low.

I need your help again!

Graham

Last edited by 911; Mar 19, 2005 at 06:15 PM. Reason: missed a bit out
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:16 PM
  #526  
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Cracked it!

After big help from you all and especially AndyF a tweek to the Idle valve actuator rotary position, close the airbox which had jumped it's clips (407 bhp probably scared it) and the car ticks over as before.

Bit of a game, but I've learnt some more about these cars and mafs and Idle valves and more connectors/tubes.....

I think we are back in RACING mode!

Two weeks to go.
The 450bhp evo is OUT
The 600 bhp EVO is in another class for now
I'm in with a chance!

Hope the box is up to it.

Wish me luck...Graham.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 08:22 PM
  #527  
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GOOD LUCK Graham

Andy
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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Pleased to hear you got it sorted Graham. I'm looking forward to hearing how you get on this season. I wish i actually had a real purpose for my car... oh yeah, i do... where is that feckin' Evo.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #529  
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Graham looking forward to hearing about your first class win
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 08:52 PM
  #530  
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Graham what happened with the 450hp EVO ?

Try to get a in car camera so that u can share the sprint with us.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #531  
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Good luck Graham, go for it!
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 10:11 PM
  #532  
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Wow!
Great car, but the driver...?
Essential part of hill climbing is to prepare the excuses BEFORE you race.
Best I've heard so far is:
'My wife washed my leather racing gloves, I can't get all my fingers in, so I went slow...'

The 450 bhp EVO is in pieces all over the garage, and the driver (actually a very nice bloke) has snapped his ankle.
For this year all cars in the class must have a roll cage, some won't fit them, so arn't racing.
There is a young buck in a well tweeked Nissan GTi @ 380 ish and a lot of tallent...he also trailers his car to and from the event where I actually drive mine everywhere.
That makes a difference in your mind.

Anyway, have the cash to buy the 6 speeder if the box goes bang now, bit more relaxing.

The 600 bhp EVO isn't all that quick yet. He is a track day refugee looking to do the Real Thing and finding hill climbs/sprints arn't as easy as they first seem (from the spectator side).

Don't have a digital video camera yet, but an in-car video would a bit of a lark!
See what we can do.

Can't wait.

Carl, when I restored the 911 I came to the thought of 'what now' and started hill climbing so the car had a purpose to justify having it etc, worked so well for 10 great years till I retired it.
The Impreza is just the same. They have to earn their corn in some way.

Wifey pic of the Sti on part of the Club's 1 mile long hill climb:



2 weeks to go.

Graham

Last edited by 911; Mar 21, 2005 at 10:14 PM. Reason: add a pic
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 10:28 PM
  #533  
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Mmm, nice, no armco and trees to hit, just to keep you honest

Good luck Graham...now all I need is to put mine back together, a job and some cash to fund that cage install
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 11:48 PM
  #534  
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wish you'd stop putting up these hill climb pictures.............i can't afford it!
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 11:48 PM
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Don't rush to buy that heavy 6 speed graham. Have a word with Pavlo regards his 5 speed synchro set up (PPG I think) it's holding 550 ish bhp on a 2.5, frequently being used for drag racing.

Andy
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 01:57 AM
  #536  
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Andy, do you need the STI V/VI gearbox casing though? or will the earlier ones be OK?
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:19 AM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by Andy.F
Don't rush to buy that heavy 6 speed graham. Have a word with Pavlo regards his 5 speed synchro set up (PPG I think) it's holding 550 ish bhp on a 2.5, frequently being used for drag racing.

Andy
I also think the same, the PPG gearset seems to be a very good option. Don't know what gear usually fails, but they have the following options:

3.08 / 2.15 / 1.50 / 1.05 / std (Subaru WRX 5sp 4 Gear helical (dog box))

3.18 / 1.87 / 1.32 / 0.95 / std (Subaru WRX 5sp 4 gear str-cut / helical (syncro))

just in case u want to compare, the stock RA gear ratios are :

3.083 / 2.062 / 1.545 / 1.151 / 0.825

and the stock JDM 6speed gear ratios are :

3.636 / 2.375 / 1.761 / 1.346 / 1.062 / 0.842

http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/images/c...e%20List04.xls
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:16 AM
  #538  
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The box will fail during the season, bound to, just as the head gaskets did last year, so time to correct will be key.
The 6 speeder can be had/installed (what a thought for the summer) in 2 weeks, the gearset not so.
Because the car is road driven the dog box option is out.
A synchro bullet-proof box is nice thought, and get a duff box with the right diff to match my rear diff and pre-build the trans for the rainy day or Xmas time swop?
Save 30Kg too. (about the weight of the roll cage).

Hill climbing is not expensive (relative to Rally/Circuit etc)

Car prep = £600 max, could be £60 in the right Championship
Driver prep = £400 (helmet/overalls/licence)

10 races entry fees = £1000
Fuel/bacon butties/beer at the end of the day etc = £500 if you drive on the road.

Almost the same as Drag Racing?

As to car damage; it's up to you. Those trees do NOT move when you hit them (I have the T shirt etc) so stay on the black stuff.

Graham.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 12:57 AM
  #539  
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Thanks to a dose of insomnia brought about by falling asleep in front of the box Friday night I finally got to read through this marathon thread during the early hours . What a great read Graham, eyes are now on organ stops.

As I got a mention, or rather the car did (pleased you were impressed with API David and Andy's efforts), it's only fair to mention that my 2.5 has covered 12,500 miles since the transplant in Oct. which means it's done over 4 of your years in 4 & a bit months, without a hitch. Andy's mapped it with this in mind and to protect the gearbox. Just a reminder, when you came along as navigator on the mapping run, the car was three up and with a boot load of tools, so well loaded down but still pulled well

Couple of points that I thought worth a comment:
Rev limit is set to 7K but with the torque, I usually change well before even when driving hard.

Personal experience of 8" x 18" wheels with 225/45/18. Don't I had Speedline Turinis with et45 and found the n/s/r wheel arch chewed the tyre wall and still touched occassionally after having the arches rolled. I now have 04 STi wheels with 225/45/17 tyres but et53. Had to fit a 3mm spacer to take the tyre off the rear struts and it's back to touching the wheel arch. Will go for 215 tyres next. Interestingly since running the 225s I've not felt the ABS, presumably as they give an extra 10% contact area and slightly bigger rolling radius means more leverage against the braking.

Anyway, inspired by your thread, I've today taken off the inlet manifold to do the parallel fuel line mod and tidy a few bits that I've been threatening for ages. Seeing your pix made it seem deceptively easy. Ha! What a PITA job just to remove it.

Looking forward to the next phases, 6 speed would be good, with lots of pix and detail

Cheers
Gerry
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 07:14 PM
  #540  
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The $$ for the 6 speeder are in the kity.
Despite what wizzard Andy says, the 6 speeder is the most practical route I think.
I am very perterbed by yours and MarkA's experience of the AP organic clutch. Surely the assembly should take more than a few 'spirited' sprints and your road miles?

I was mighty impressed by the easy drive you car was, and was taking 'off' the burden of the tool boxes, 2 people etc in assessing my first 2.5 litre experience.

Also impressed you could keep awake through my drivel of a thread!

The old 911 gets back into the garage tomorrow for new brakes and softening-off form competition duty, such a nice 'real' car.

Graham.
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