Gauge group Buy
....should look something like this when it's done but I'll probably put the gauges at the top
http://turbomagazine.com/features/02...rco10_zoom.jpg
http://turbomagazine.com/features/02...rco10_zoom.jpg
Originally Posted by PO54
Fitting mine above the CD player when I swap my double DIN one out for an MP3 player - just need a 3X52mm single din blank now.....
It is all a little strange?! I thought gauges came in the standard size 52mm or 60mm (generally).
I assume ours must fit in a single din being 52mm (but look how tight it is in PO45's pic!).
I have a feeling the OEM pod is just that little bit smaller... so you have to buy the OEM sports gauge pack to go with it
.
BTW I'll know how the fitting went in a few hours. I had a rather poor quality mobile to mobile voice message saying they were going in this morning... just needed a part.
The dealer asked about a mention on Scoobynet, and then declined... something about not ever wanting to fit these gauges in the OEM pod again
a real pain in the ar$e
I assume ours must fit in a single din being 52mm (but look how tight it is in PO45's pic!).
I have a feeling the OEM pod is just that little bit smaller... so you have to buy the OEM sports gauge pack to go with it
. BTW I'll know how the fitting went in a few hours. I had a rather poor quality mobile to mobile voice message saying they were going in this morning... just needed a part.
The dealer asked about a mention on Scoobynet, and then declined... something about not ever wanting to fit these gauges in the OEM pod again
a real pain in the ar$e
Last edited by mplaczek; Nov 26, 2004 at 11:16 AM. Reason: I never proof read my posts properly...
Single DIN hole is 50mm high, as is my new HU. Those gauges in the picture may be HKS 46mm series....
I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......
I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......
Originally Posted by PO54
Single DIN hole is 50mm high, as is my new HU. Those gauges in the picture may be HKS 46mm series....
I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......
I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......

I don't have the gauges infront of me, but I think the gauge excluding the silver rims are 52, So I guess with the rims you are looking at a VERY tight fit.
Good luck with that PO54. I hope you don't encounter the same problems that I have had
Originally Posted by DJM
Austen
Are the kits for everything? I have Boost, Oil Pressure and Water Temp
Are the kits for everything? I have Boost, Oil Pressure and Water Temp
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 17,864
Likes: 0
From: Not all those who wander are lost
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
That looks the mutts!! These gauges really suit that pod! Who, where and how much?

Its available from your friendly neighbourbood ScoobyShop via ScoobyClinic here.

They are made by ATI and can be had with blue/chrome/carbon facias that push into place too
I've just been playing with the (turbo boost) T-piece which was included with the gauge - and I blew through it (I'm bored)... and discovered a hole! It looks like the plastic didn't mold properly, at the top centre of the T. This probably isn't a problem because I'll be able to find another one, but what is the purpose of the brass restrictor at the bottom of the T?
Hi,
I fitted the gauges over the weekend apart from the sensor wires for the oil gauges which i will do later.....the boost gauge works really well....when lit
the gauges look very good....only gripe they are very bright at night...there is no noticeable difference when the illumination of the car is switched on.....
Has anyone else experienced this.....
The naff pod is quite naff as it won't shut unless you drill holes in the back to let the gauge securing screw through......
Cheers
Bash
I fitted the gauges over the weekend apart from the sensor wires for the oil gauges which i will do later.....the boost gauge works really well....when lit
the gauges look very good....only gripe they are very bright at night...there is no noticeable difference when the illumination of the car is switched on.....
Has anyone else experienced this.....
The naff pod is quite naff as it won't shut unless you drill holes in the back to let the gauge securing screw through......
Cheers
Bash
Not that i know the correct answer, but where and what voltage are you picking up the dimmer input?? Just wondered as thinking about the bright switch connection to the clock (if tahts what you used), i'm not sure, but i don't think it gives out 12v.
Note: I may be totally wrong!
Note: I may be totally wrong!
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Not that i know the correct answer, but where and what voltage are you picking up the dimmer input?? Just wondered as thinking about the bright switch connection to the clock (if tahts what you used), i'm not sure, but i don't think it gives out 12v.
Note: I may be totally wrong!
Note: I may be totally wrong!
i tested all the wiring using a earth live tester....
Let there be light!
Yes, but I have a plan 
The brightness varies with voltage, so if you can fit a suitably rated resistor in power line you should be able to make them less bright.
I think I'll fit a variable voltage regulator (to avoid any resistor overheating issues) with two potentiometers, one for daylight brightness and one for night-time brightness.
I'll leave the potentiometers accessible (mounted under the dash), the signal from the headlights will be used to switch onto the night-time setting, and the orange lead will not be used. Do-able.
Originally Posted by bash
...only gripe they are very bright at night...there is no noticeable difference when the illumination of the car is switched on.....
Has anyone else experienced this.....
Bash
Has anyone else experienced this.....
Bash

The brightness varies with voltage, so if you can fit a suitably rated resistor in power line you should be able to make them less bright.
I think I'll fit a variable voltage regulator (to avoid any resistor overheating issues) with two potentiometers, one for daylight brightness and one for night-time brightness.
I'll leave the potentiometers accessible (mounted under the dash), the signal from the headlights will be used to switch onto the night-time setting, and the orange lead will not be used. Do-able.
Just an idea; I know that if you connect just the dimmer +ve the gauge glows very low (lights behind the needle), you could set up a reed switch that switches off the main power to the illumination when a voltage is supplied to the dimmer +ve
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Just experimenting.
They aren't mounted yet, I'm still doing some hacking (precision machining) to the standard subaru pod. I've made and painted a face plate... never again 
They aren't mounted yet, I'm still doing some hacking (precision machining) to the standard subaru pod. I've made and painted a face plate... never again 
??? What do they look like if you just connect the dimmer +ve up??




