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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:15 AM
  #241  
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....should look something like this when it's done but I'll probably put the gauges at the top
http://turbomagazine.com/features/02...rco10_zoom.jpg
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:24 AM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by PO54
Fitting mine above the CD player when I swap my double DIN one out for an MP3 player - just need a 3X52mm single din blank now.....
I hope they fit after what mplaczek said.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:25 AM
  #243  
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It does look good, just not sure how visible they are.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:26 AM
  #244  
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Just ordered my pack 'o' bits, thanks Austen. I'll take a pic of mine in my pod when I get a mo.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:32 AM
  #245  
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What pod you got?
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 11:15 AM
  #246  
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It is all a little strange?! I thought gauges came in the standard size 52mm or 60mm (generally).

I assume ours must fit in a single din being 52mm (but look how tight it is in PO45's pic!).

I have a feeling the OEM pod is just that little bit smaller... so you have to buy the OEM sports gauge pack to go with it .

BTW I'll know how the fitting went in a few hours. I had a rather poor quality mobile to mobile voice message saying they were going in this morning... just needed a part.

The dealer asked about a mention on Scoobynet, and then declined... something about not ever wanting to fit these gauges in the OEM pod again a real pain in the ar$e

Last edited by mplaczek; Nov 26, 2004 at 11:16 AM. Reason: I never proof read my posts properly...
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 11:30 AM
  #247  
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Single DIN hole is 50mm high, as is my new HU. Those gauges in the picture may be HKS 46mm series....

I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 11:34 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
What pod you got?
Its a defi-style pod, will try and get a pic at lunch.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by PO54
Single DIN hole is 50mm high, as is my new HU. Those gauges in the picture may be HKS 46mm series....

I've fitted 52's into a single DIN blank before (not in a Scooby) and it's tight - won't know if they will fit until I try next week......
That would explain a few things
I don't have the gauges infront of me, but I think the gauge excluding the silver rims are 52, So I guess with the rims you are looking at a VERY tight fit.

Good luck with that PO54. I hope you don't encounter the same problems that I have had
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 01:16 PM
  #250  
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Austen

Are the kits for everything? I have Boost, Oil Pressure and Water Temp
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #251  
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Here's mine in my pod, but as yet, not fitted in the car . . . .



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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 05:35 PM
  #252  
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That looks the mutts!! These gauges really suit that pod! Who, where and how much?
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 05:36 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by DJM
Austen

Are the kits for everything? I have Boost, Oil Pressure and Water Temp
You need all the kit except for the M18x1.5 to 1/8 NPT bung adaptor (part no. LM067). Just ask them not to include that part, it should knock off about £4
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 06:16 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
That looks the mutts!! These gauges really suit that pod! Who, where and how much?
Cheers, looks better on the flesh to be honest

Its available from your friendly neighbourbood ScoobyShop via ScoobyClinic here.



They are made by ATI and can be had with blue/chrome/carbon facias that push into place too
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 08:38 AM
  #255  
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Ok they are in and looking pretty good

I'll get some pictures up later today hopefully.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 02:47 PM
  #256  
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Did they fit the pod in the end??
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 12:40 PM
  #257  
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I've just been playing with the (turbo boost) T-piece which was included with the gauge - and I blew through it (I'm bored)... and discovered a hole! It looks like the plastic didn't mold properly, at the top centre of the T. This probably isn't a problem because I'll be able to find another one, but what is the purpose of the brass restrictor at the bottom of the T?
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 12:45 PM
  #258  
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I noticed that, i don't know, but maybe its to stop the plastic collapsing when fitting the tube, as its pretty tight.
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 12:57 PM
  #259  
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Hmmm, maybe it smoothes the motion of the needle by restricting the speed of the air through it... maybe I need it after all...
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:04 PM
  #260  
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Hi,

I fitted the gauges over the weekend apart from the sensor wires for the oil gauges which i will do later.....the boost gauge works really well....when lit
the gauges look very good....only gripe they are very bright at night...there is no noticeable difference when the illumination of the car is switched on.....
Has anyone else experienced this.....


The naff pod is quite naff as it won't shut unless you drill holes in the back to let the gauge securing screw through......


Cheers

Bash
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:11 PM
  #261  
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Did you connect up the dimming connector??
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:32 PM
  #262  
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Yes.....when you switch the lights on i just get a flicker on the gauges with
no real noticeable difference to the brightness.....


Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Did you connect up the dimming connector??
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:46 PM
  #263  
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Not that i know the correct answer, but where and what voltage are you picking up the dimmer input?? Just wondered as thinking about the bright switch connection to the clock (if tahts what you used), i'm not sure, but i don't think it gives out 12v.

Note: I may be totally wrong!
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:51 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Not that i know the correct answer, but where and what voltage are you picking up the dimmer input?? Just wondered as thinking about the bright switch connection to the clock (if tahts what you used), i'm not sure, but i don't think it gives out 12v.

Note: I may be totally wrong!
I used a connection to the dim switch for the headlights on the stalk..
i tested all the wiring using a earth live tester....
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #265  
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What voltage was it sticking out?? Just wondered if a lower voltage would help, i.e. the gauge illumination switches to low voltage when lights on???
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:00 PM
  #266  
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Let there be light!

Originally Posted by bash
...only gripe they are very bright at night...there is no noticeable difference when the illumination of the car is switched on.....
Has anyone else experienced this.....
Bash
Yes, but I have a plan

The brightness varies with voltage, so if you can fit a suitably rated resistor in power line you should be able to make them less bright.

I think I'll fit a variable voltage regulator (to avoid any resistor overheating issues) with two potentiometers, one for daylight brightness and one for night-time brightness.
I'll leave the potentiometers accessible (mounted under the dash), the signal from the headlights will be used to switch onto the night-time setting, and the orange lead will not be used. Do-able.
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:01 PM
  #267  
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Just an idea; I know that if you connect just the dimmer +ve the gauge glows very low (lights behind the needle), you could set up a reed switch that switches off the main power to the illumination when a voltage is supplied to the dimmer +ve
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:03 PM
  #268  
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Bloody hell, it was dark in that photo!! Were you in a cave?? Any pics in daylight? Looking good though!!
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:06 PM
  #269  
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Just experimenting. They aren't mounted yet, I'm still doing some hacking (precision machining) to the standard subaru pod. I've made and painted a face plate... never again
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Just experimenting. They aren't mounted yet, I'm still doing some hacking (precision machining) to the standard subaru pod. I've made and painted a face plate... never again
Are you playing with them now ??? What do they look like if you just connect the dimmer +ve up??
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