Gauge group Buy
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Another question! 
Was your pipe long enough or did you have to use an extension? Which hole did you use in the firewall?
Thanks again.

Was your pipe long enough or did you have to use an extension? Which hole did you use in the firewall?
Thanks again.
was long enough, just right in fact. I used the bung just to the right of the steering column for the sender wires and pipe. You probably can't se this bung until you take the intercooler off. This bung is dead easy to get at under the dash/pedals as there is pre cut hole in NVH/carpet. I then tie wrapped the wires and pipes to various pipes to keep it away from hot things. The wires and pipes pass under the intercooler. I connected the boost gauge pipe (using the supplied T peice) about 4 inches from the dump valve, i.e. you have too do it while the intercooler is off.
Last edited by austen_wrx; Dec 2, 2004 at 02:55 PM. Reason: can't spell for toffee
I received my kit yesterday......would like to fit this weekend....
Just wondering if you had a chance to take any pictures???
Cheers
Bash
Just wondering if you had a chance to take any pictures???
Cheers
Bash
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Yes my pipe
was long enough, just right in fact. I used the bung just to the right of the steering column for the sender wires and pipe. You probably can't se this bung until you take the intercooler off. This bung is dead easy to get at under the dash/pedals as there is pre cut hole in NVH/carpet. I then tie wrapped the wires and pipes to various pipes to keep it away from hot things. The wires and pipes pass under the intercooler. I connected the boost gauge pipe (using the supplied T peice) about 4 inches from the dump valve, i.e. you have too do it while the intercooler is off.
was long enough, just right in fact. I used the bung just to the right of the steering column for the sender wires and pipe. You probably can't se this bung until you take the intercooler off. This bung is dead easy to get at under the dash/pedals as there is pre cut hole in NVH/carpet. I then tie wrapped the wires and pipes to various pipes to keep it away from hot things. The wires and pipes pass under the intercooler. I connected the boost gauge pipe (using the supplied T peice) about 4 inches from the dump valve, i.e. you have too do it while the intercooler is off.
Well received my gauges last week and decided that i wanted to add an EGT and Fuel pressure gauge,problem where do you mount five gauges so that they are not scattered all over the dash which in my opinion dont look too good.so i set about making a pod that would take the five gauges and look ok
well its now finished and even though i say so my self it looks the dogs ,just waiting for the primer to dry so i can paint it
The pod is shaped to the dash and and sits in the center
Bet you would all like to see it ,well you can if some one can post the pics up for me cos i dont know how to.
When its painted will take some pics of it in the car
So if you can post up the pics let me know
Cheers
Gary
well its now finished and even though i say so my self it looks the dogs ,just waiting for the primer to dry so i can paint it
The pod is shaped to the dash and and sits in the center
Bet you would all like to see it ,well you can if some one can post the pics up for me cos i dont know how to.

When its painted will take some pics of it in the car
So if you can post up the pics let me know
Cheers
Gary
Originally Posted by starship impreza
Austen WRX you must have left work before you received them 
Any one else help
Gary

Any one else help
Gary
then copy + paste the all of the IMG bracketed text.
You are gonna hate me for asking this question, but i do need help so here goes....did you manage to take any pics....and would you please post them on here........
Thanks + Regards
Bash
Thanks + Regards
Bash
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
very nice!! What MY car does it fit?? Pre 97??
Originally Posted by bash
You are gonna hate me for asking this question, but i do need help so here goes....did you manage to take any pics....and would you please post them on here........
Thanks + Regards
Bash
Thanks + Regards
Bash
The removal of the bung for the temperature sensor:
The temperature sensor installed:
Here's the original pressure sensor, under the alternator:
(Also note in this pic, the crank sensor, which you can remove during an oil change. You can reach the crank sensor without removing the alternator. )
Here's the pressure sender installed. I used one of the straps to hold the Lemans T piece in place, and fitted it to the long bolt which is used for tightening the alternator belt:
(I'm going to cut the excess from the bolt)
This is how I routed the wires and boost pipe. You can see the grommet (which I had already used for a LRC100 install) There is enough pipe to route it across the back of the intercooler, you'll see two black plastic clips on the firewall, undo these and there is a spare slot which can hold the pipe. You'll notice the intercooler connections are wrapped in cling film, that's because I took this apart two weeks ago and knew it would be a while before I got all the bits
I still have a little bit to do, I don't have a T piece for the boost pipe, and I have two wires to join at the meter side.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Jiggerypokery; Dec 4, 2004 at 06:24 PM.
Thanks........that really helps.....i have already fitted the boost gauge and
done the wiring for the oil pressure and temp gauge, all i have to do is connect the sensors....
Cheers
Bash
done the wiring for the oil pressure and temp gauge, all i have to do is connect the sensors....
Cheers
Bash
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Hello Bash,
The removal of the bung for the temperature sensor:

The temperature sensor installed:

Here's the original pressure sensor, under the alternator:
(Also note in this pic, the crank sensor, which you can remove during an oil change. You can reach the crank sensor without removing the alternator. )

Here's the pressure sender installed. I used one of the straps to hold the Lemans T piece in place, and fitted it to the long bolt which is used for tightening the alternator belt:

(I'm going to cut the excess from the bolt)
This is how I routed the wires and boost pipe. You can see the grommet (which I had already used for a LRC100 install) There is enough pipe to route it across the back of the intercooler, you'll see two black plastic clips on the firewall, undo these and there is a spare slot which can hold the pipe. You'll notice the intercooler connections are wrapped in cling film, that's because I took this apart two weeks ago and knew it would be a while before I got all the bits

I still have a little bit to do, I don't have a T piece for the boost pipe, and I have two wires to join at the meter side.
Hope that helps.
The removal of the bung for the temperature sensor:
The temperature sensor installed:
Here's the original pressure sensor, under the alternator:
(Also note in this pic, the crank sensor, which you can remove during an oil change. You can reach the crank sensor without removing the alternator. )
Here's the pressure sender installed. I used one of the straps to hold the Lemans T piece in place, and fitted it to the long bolt which is used for tightening the alternator belt:
(I'm going to cut the excess from the bolt)
This is how I routed the wires and boost pipe. You can see the grommet (which I had already used for a LRC100 install) There is enough pipe to route it across the back of the intercooler, you'll see two black plastic clips on the firewall, undo these and there is a spare slot which can hold the pipe. You'll notice the intercooler connections are wrapped in cling film, that's because I took this apart two weeks ago and knew it would be a while before I got all the bits
I still have a little bit to do, I don't have a T piece for the boost pipe, and I have two wires to join at the meter side.
Hope that helps.
Hello Jiggerypokery,
PHEW!!!......fitted the sensors and the gauges work fine.....the only thing that is not just right is the pressure sensor.....in the picture with the pressure
sensor installed......your sensor sits at about the height of the alternator..but because my braided pipe which seems lond the pressure dome
sits quite high up....unless i bend the braided hose and force it to sit lower...
Did you have to bend the briaded hose to sit in the that position........
Blimey hope that makes sense....
Cheers
Bash
PHEW!!!......fitted the sensors and the gauges work fine.....the only thing that is not just right is the pressure sensor.....in the picture with the pressure
sensor installed......your sensor sits at about the height of the alternator..but because my braided pipe which seems lond the pressure dome
sits quite high up....unless i bend the braided hose and force it to sit lower...
Did you have to bend the briaded hose to sit in the that position........
Blimey hope that makes sense....
Cheers
Bash
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Hello Bash,
The removal of the bung for the temperature sensor:

The temperature sensor installed:

Here's the original pressure sensor, under the alternator:
(Also note in this pic, the crank sensor, which you can remove during an oil change. You can reach the crank sensor without removing the alternator. )

Here's the pressure sender installed. I used one of the straps to hold the Lemans T piece in place, and fitted it to the long bolt which is used for tightening the alternator belt:

(I'm going to cut the excess from the bolt)
This is how I routed the wires and boost pipe. You can see the grommet (which I had already used for a LRC100 install) There is enough pipe to route it across the back of the intercooler, you'll see two black plastic clips on the firewall, undo these and there is a spare slot which can hold the pipe. You'll notice the intercooler connections are wrapped in cling film, that's because I took this apart two weeks ago and knew it would be a while before I got all the bits

I still have a little bit to do, I don't have a T piece for the boost pipe, and I have two wires to join at the meter side.
Hope that helps.
The removal of the bung for the temperature sensor:
The temperature sensor installed:
Here's the original pressure sensor, under the alternator:
(Also note in this pic, the crank sensor, which you can remove during an oil change. You can reach the crank sensor without removing the alternator. )
Here's the pressure sender installed. I used one of the straps to hold the Lemans T piece in place, and fitted it to the long bolt which is used for tightening the alternator belt:
(I'm going to cut the excess from the bolt)
This is how I routed the wires and boost pipe. You can see the grommet (which I had already used for a LRC100 install) There is enough pipe to route it across the back of the intercooler, you'll see two black plastic clips on the firewall, undo these and there is a spare slot which can hold the pipe. You'll notice the intercooler connections are wrapped in cling film, that's because I took this apart two weeks ago and knew it would be a while before I got all the bits
I still have a little bit to do, I don't have a T piece for the boost pipe, and I have two wires to join at the meter side.
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by bash
Hello Jiggerypokery,
PHEW!!!......fitted the sensors and the gauges work fine.....the only thing that is not just right is the pressure sensor.....in the picture with the pressure
sensor installed......your sensor sits at about the height of the alternator..but because my braided pipe which seems lond the pressure dome
sits quite high up....unless i bend the braided hose and force it to sit lower...
Did you have to bend the briaded hose to sit in the that position........
Blimey hope that makes sense....
Cheers
Bash
PHEW!!!......fitted the sensors and the gauges work fine.....the only thing that is not just right is the pressure sensor.....in the picture with the pressure
sensor installed......your sensor sits at about the height of the alternator..but because my braided pipe which seems lond the pressure dome
sits quite high up....unless i bend the braided hose and force it to sit lower...
Did you have to bend the briaded hose to sit in the that position........
Blimey hope that makes sense....
Cheers
Bash
Yes, I had to bend it slightly. I bent the spade connector on the end of the original pressure sensor, this then sits under the belt guard. I used one of the supplied clips to hold the T piece in place.
This is before the clip was used:
aaaaahhhhh!!!!..........makes sense now.....you mounted your original pressure sensor at the top of the T piece....while i mounted mine in the middle
....doh!!!...........i will swap them around.......
Thanks for that.....your help has been invaluable....
Kind Regards
Bash..................
....doh!!!...........i will swap them around.......
Thanks for that.....your help has been invaluable....
Kind Regards
Bash..................
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Hello Bash,
Yes, I had to bend it slightly. I bent the spade connector on the end of the original pressure sensor, this then sits under the belt guard. I used one of the supplied clips to hold the T piece in place.
This is before the clip was used:

Yes, I had to bend it slightly. I bent the spade connector on the end of the original pressure sensor, this then sits under the belt guard. I used one of the supplied clips to hold the T piece in place.
This is before the clip was used:
You have actually screwed the wrong sensors into the wrong part of the T piece (unless Lemans have made them differently than i requested), the 1/8BSP thread for the original switch is in the side and the 1/8 NPT for the pressure sendes is in the end. But to be honest it doesn't really matter (as long as you are not taking them on and off all the time) as these 2 threads are so similiar. My T piece had BSP all round so i had to mix and match the threads anywaym
Interesting you should say that.....one of the main reason i mounted the
original sensor in the middle is coz it screwed in properly while the new sensor would only grip the first couple of threads but screw in at the top properly.......i think i will leave it....just in case i knacker the treads by taking them out.....
Is it ok to bend the briaded hose?????
Cheers
Bash
original sensor in the middle is coz it screwed in properly while the new sensor would only grip the first couple of threads but screw in at the top properly.......i think i will leave it....just in case i knacker the treads by taking them out.....
Is it ok to bend the briaded hose?????
Cheers
Bash
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
You have actually screwed the wrong sensors into the wrong part of the T piece (unless Lemans have made them differently than i requested), the 1/8BSP thread for the original switch is in the side and the 1/8 NPT for the pressure sendes is in the end. But to be honest it doesn't really matter (as long as you are not taking them on and off all the time) as these 2 threads are so similiar. My T piece had BSP all round so i had to mix and match the threads anywaym
Ok the, Lemans have made it as i requested (original sensor on side). In future would it be better to have it the other way around?? Whata bout the pipe length, should it be shortened slightly
Yes it should be shortened .....at the moment i think my sensor is probably touching the bonnet.....i think the pipe should be half the size....
That is the problem i have now....if i push it down the pipe bends....so
what do i do.....any suggestions???
Cheers
Bash
That is the problem i have now....if i push it down the pipe bends....so
what do i do.....any suggestions???
Cheers
Bash
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Ok the, Lemans have made it as i requested (original sensor on side). In future would it be better to have it the other way around?? Whata bout the pipe length, should it be shortened slightly
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
You have actually screwed the wrong sensors into the wrong part of the T piece (unless Lemans have made them differently than i requested), the 1/8BSP thread for the original switch is in the side and the 1/8 NPT for the pressure sendes is in the end. But to be honest it doesn't really matter (as long as you are not taking them on and off all the time) as these 2 threads are so similiar. My T piece had BSP all round so i had to mix and match the threads anywaym
The other way just wasn't working, I would have to cut a hole in the bonnet to let the sender out
Here's the dimmer circuit I made. It links to a little box under the steering column so I can adjust the brightness at night, and switch the gauges off completely if I want to. This board mounts under the pod, on the metal base plate. The "lights on" signal turns on a relay on the board.
The gauges installed:
At night, dim:
At night, bright:
I also replaced the LED surround with a different type and mounted it in the top right of the face plate. The face plate is glass fibre laminate, spray painted black.
Last edited by Jiggerypokery; Dec 6, 2004 at 08:17 PM.
Hi,
To all those who have fitted thier gauages....i was wondering how your readings were reacting.......
My Oil temp gradually warms up as you expect and then stays at a constant
92 celsius....the Oil pressure guage is just mad....idling seems to hold at about 2 bar with the odd flicker....a slight dab at the accelarator and the needle shoots up to 6 bar and when i am driving it reads between 6 and 7 bar...and flickering all the time....come to a junction off the accelarator and it shoots down to 2 bar...the needle is very unstable. I am not sure if this is working properly, would like
some feed back from others who have fitted....
Cheers
Bash
To all those who have fitted thier gauages....i was wondering how your readings were reacting.......
My Oil temp gradually warms up as you expect and then stays at a constant
92 celsius....the Oil pressure guage is just mad....idling seems to hold at about 2 bar with the odd flicker....a slight dab at the accelarator and the needle shoots up to 6 bar and when i am driving it reads between 6 and 7 bar...and flickering all the time....come to a junction off the accelarator and it shoots down to 2 bar...the needle is very unstable. I am not sure if this is working properly, would like
some feed back from others who have fitted....
Cheers
Bash


