And pic of the brake spacers Kev


Looking good mate

 

it's a piece of cake i think it might be from where i 'modified' the bulkhead fitting the STi5 beforehand, and i can't get the strutbrace back on as it stands ATM


i won't be running a DV


and the brake adaptor brackets/spacers aren't finished yet, V3 coming up

 

how did you flatten the idle valve pipe?

big hammer and whack it>?
when i fit one to mine im planning on running a td05fe anyway so i can live without a dv

 

I did think of cutting a segment out of the 90 deg 'bend' but figured that if Subaru could have used a smaller pipe then they would have!
The pipe is bonded into the cast housing I think. I was trying to remove the elbow, cut and solder back on a flat piece of brass to seal it, but was concerned about damage to the valve's pivot 'flap'.

Will be irritating if it all works for Flat as i took ages cutting and shutting the TMIC.

I lost the use of my top brace too, realy doubt if i will miss it on the hill climbing.

Graham.

 

it's my favourite tool i was worried that the pipe might split at the join but it's very easy to work into shape, also, it's wasn't just a case of flattening the pipe, i've taken some material of the manifold where the ICV fits to gain a few more mm

 

questions:

1. the crankcase breather, it seems to tee off, one went to the air intake pipe (i ran that to ground previously) and one to the manifold via what looks like a valve can i blank this off and just run a pipe from the crankcase straight to ground?

2. throttle body & idle control valve have the engine coolant circulating through them, all well and good in winter, can't see it being of any use in summer though, what's the done thing here?

3. inlet manifold gaskets, anyone got any insualting gaskets or know where to get some?

 

Flat, if you can tolerate it I did a fair bit on my thread about the breather system.
I kept the water to the idle valve inplace because subaru put it there, BUT, if you remove the water I doubt too much will be compramised. Try it and see?
I think Pavlo (Paul) makes them, and I'm sure with a bit of AutoCad and a sheet of Tufnol sone 6 mm spacers can be made. Thinking about it, I think John Banks made some too.
The manifold bolts in time will transfer the heat anyway.

Graham.

 

There was a pair of those in for sale about a week ago Kev.

<runs off to try and find thread>


EDIT: bugger, sold.

 

Kev,

Been running with coolant feeds to idle valve and throttle body removed..

only had one problem.. on friday the throttle froze stuck open!

It was -7 outside and the temp at the throttle body was -4.. stopped at a junction and pulled out flooring it.. through 1st, 2nd, on the change into 3rd the revs didn;t drop, just bounced off the limiter..!! I killed the engine and coasted to a stop and by the time I had stopped and opened the bonnet it had freed off..

You running a TMIC though will give it more heat protection and my throttle body is at the front receiving all the cold air coming in through the grill..

Good work so far mate!

Simon

 

at least we know what the limit is think i should be alright then, have you measured the TB temps with and without water feed Simon?



might make my own gaskets if i can dremel them out

 

haven't measured the temps with coolant feed connected on the current set up no..

temps at the throttle body were not that much different on the previous set up but obviously the air in not heated by the throttle body and manifold until it has entered them, I was measuring temps at the entrance to the throttle body..

manifold and throttle body are considerable cooler doing the hand heat check..

Simon

 

no coolant feed it is then


next question, do i change the standard clutch while im at this stage? only changed less than 5,000 miles ago by the last owner the day he crashed it, d'oh!

 

oh, and while i remember, phase 1.5 manifold and TD05 90 degree don't like each other, had to grind one of the vacuum lugs off and a bit off the leg

 

last question (for today), promise MY95 standard DP has a sensor in it, doesn't look big enough for lambda, what is it? not had it plumbed in since the decat as it wouldn't fit the bigger lug

 

Catalyst on-fire (overheat) sensor?

 

^^^^^^

Yes it is

 

standard spec clutch (borg and beck) is still fine on mine.. some seem to be fine and others not.. you have nothing to lose, if it slips then replace it.. I wouldn't bother before hand myself.

 

sensor stays unplugged then




will do the clutch in warmer weather then

 

IC is at the welders having a bung welded into the DV port, also trying to source someone to repair my wheels and the caliper brackets are in their final stages of manufacture

 

first quote in for the repair on the 2 wheels, 100 quid not sure if that's a good price or not, did include painting the worse one of the two where it's chipped, probably knock him down to 75 quid without the painting

 

Thats damn cheap mate, the company I approached wanted 175 per wheel to referb them.

If you don't mind me asking who are you insured with.

Simon

 

i wouldn't exactly call it refurbing, they were just going to straighten them up


i'm with privilege, 300ish quid TPF&T

 

Thought a good wheel refurb was about £40 a wheel???

Shot / sand blast, straighten, alloy fill, grind/smooth back, stove enamel or hot cure paint ....

or is it just cheap up north for this?

 

that sounds more like it i thought 30 quid plus vat for 10 mins work was a bit steep myself

 

i gave in wheels are being straightened for 40 quid each, apparently a good hours worth of work on them, picking up the IC today aswell

 

So, fancy wheels, fancy mudflaps, fancy TMIC and maybe fancy tyres?

Getting serious for TOTB...

Graham

 

don't think i'll be running at TOTB somehow and the mudflaps come off after winter


all welded up

 

looking good

 

let's jst hope someone's mapping skills are up to scratch

 

lmfao..