WRX-RA STi insurance write off to.....
20 April 2004, 01:25 AM
#121
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Originally Posted by Andy Tang
Spray the indicators black with the indicator tiniting laquer.
It will look much better and cheaper than clear indicator lenses!
It will look much better and cheaper than clear indicator lenses!
look much better then the tinted spray stuff
20 April 2004, 08:17 AM
#122
flat4,
lovin this thread, think what your doing is great. you have filled my head with loads of ideas of a project. well done for making a poorly scoob into a fine clean example.
Nice 1 !!
lovin this thread, think what your doing is great. you have filled my head with loads of ideas of a project. well done for making a poorly scoob into a fine clean example.
Nice 1 !!
20 April 2004, 09:52 AM
#123
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
it's gone alot easier than i thought it would, probably could of done it in half the time if i'd just brought all the parts from a breaker 
20 April 2004, 09:51 PM
#124
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
spoke too soon 
fookin' DVLA are completely useless, sent off for the V5 start of march, it's taken them one & half months to realise i owe them 19 quid to pay for a replacement V5, which they introduced 2 days before i sent it off someones getting a call tomorrow
fookin' DVLA are completely useless, sent off for the V5 start of march, it's taken them one & half months to realise i owe them 19 quid to pay for a replacement V5, which they introduced 2 days before i sent it off someones getting a call tomorrow
21 April 2004, 08:59 AM
#125
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
like i thought, complete waste of time ringing them up 
so thats another 4 weeks i'm going to have to wait
so thats another 4 weeks i'm going to have to wait
21 April 2004, 01:07 PM
#127
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
but 4 weeks is far too close to scooby shootout nope! they're going to have to do better than that
nope! they're going to have to do better than that
21 April 2004, 04:56 PM
#128
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Originally Posted by StickyMicky
no fit sum proper black tinted lenses, i got mine from ebay for £35
look much better then the tinted spray stuff
look much better then the tinted spray stuff
Mine looked ok, despite me being cack handed with a spray can! Imagine how good it could look with someone who knows what they are doing and using good quality coloured laquer!!!
23 April 2004, 08:41 PM
#129
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Alright mate project looks real good now, i was one with type r.Anyway old car is away and i have a set of tinted indicators you can have-front and sides.Also have a apexi rev/speed meter in my car it fits snug between ash tray and radio and its the same size as your meter-just an idea that worked for me anyway good luck with getting it all done it will be worth all the agro
paul
anyway good luck with getting it all done it will be worth all the agro paul
25 April 2004, 11:01 PM
#130
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
did **** all this weekend, apart from washing it i blame the weather 
new cambelt and carbon cam covers should get fitted this week sometime, then i can get both rads finally fitted, then it's just a few cosmetic things like lights & scoops
i blame the weather new cambelt and carbon cam covers should get fitted this week sometime, then i can get both rads finally fitted, then it's just a few cosmetic things like lights & scoops
26 April 2004, 11:18 AM
#132
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
a mate took them off his type R when he wrote the front end off, one of the covers is a bit damaged but it will do for keeping stones etc. out, i've no idea where they came from, google isn't helping me much - anyone know?
also the front lights have turned up today so that tonite sorted then
also the front lights have turned up today so that tonite sorted then
28 April 2004, 06:37 PM
#133
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
lights are kind of in, it's just electrics & rain don't mix so i'll have to wait patiently till it stops raining this week
so i'll have to wait patiently till it stops raining this week
29 April 2004, 08:42 PM
#137
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
no problem and you also know my name
got one side of the headlights wired up tonite, i'll leave the other side for another night
got one side of the headlights wired up tonite, i'll leave the other side for another night
01 May 2004, 09:43 AM
#139
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
thank you
V5C turned up yesterday, only took 8 weeks to be fair alot of it was down to them introducing the 19 quid charge for a new V5, just wish they hadn't taken 6 weeks to tell me the rules had changed
new cambelt, alternator belt & AC belt should be fitted today along with replacing the plastic cam covers with some slightly beat up carbon ones might do a step by step guide to fitting a cambelt if i feel upto it
V5C turned up yesterday, only took 8 weeks
to be fair alot of it was down to them introducing the 19 quid charge for a new V5, just wish they hadn't taken 6 weeks to tell me the rules had changed new cambelt, alternator belt & AC belt should be fitted today along with replacing the plastic cam covers with some slightly beat up carbon ones
might do a step by step guide to fitting a cambelt if i feel upto it
01 May 2004, 08:34 PM
#141
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 911
Take a long cup of real coffee to recover and DO the cam change 'article', please!
911
911
update to follow, maybe tomorrow
01 May 2004, 10:54 PM
#142
01 May 2004, 11:35 PM
#143
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The cam belt change is easy! Just use the instructions in the workshop manual... (I've done mine twice now - damn crank oil seal...)
Great thread BTW. You're making me consider a similar project for the summer (as if I don't have enough to do!!)
Great thread BTW. You're making me consider a similar project for the summer (as if I don't have enough to do!!)
02 May 2004, 09:38 AM
#144
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
Cam belt change info would be good Kev.. I have just under 2200miles to go..
Waiting until after the shootout as not point if it goes BANG!
Simon
Waiting until after the shootout as not point if it goes BANG!
Simon
and yes, cambelt change is a piece of ****
02 May 2004, 10:31 AM
#145
cam belt change:
drain coolant, remove rad.
slacken alternator, remove main belt.
undo crank pulley bolt, should shock out with car in gear, otherwise with rad out you can get a airgun on a non A/C car.
take off cambelt covers
undo pulley guard, remove
rotate engine to tdc mark with cams on drivers side aligned, double lines on camwheels should meet.
tap in some wooden wedges on both sets of cam wheels to lock in place
undo tensioner, remove
remove belt
refit new belt using timing diagram available from somewhere! (should be easy with cams already in position. But essentially crank mark needs to align with block, camwheels should have the double lines meeting.)
compress tensioner, put pin through it
refit tensioner
Belt goes in under the pulley on lower drivers side, when all timed, twist round and over so it sits in it's proper position.
pull pin out of tensioner, wait for slack to be taken up
rotate engine clockwise with pulley bolt, round a few times to check the belt is really in correct position.
put it all back together!
The workshop manual is more compreshensive, but the above covers most of the important points.
Paul
drain coolant, remove rad.
slacken alternator, remove main belt.
undo crank pulley bolt, should shock out with car in gear, otherwise with rad out you can get a airgun on a non A/C car.
take off cambelt covers
undo pulley guard, remove
rotate engine to tdc mark with cams on drivers side aligned, double lines on camwheels should meet.
tap in some wooden wedges on both sets of cam wheels to lock in place
undo tensioner, remove
remove belt
refit new belt using timing diagram available from somewhere! (should be easy with cams already in position. But essentially crank mark needs to align with block, camwheels should have the double lines meeting.)
compress tensioner, put pin through it
refit tensioner
Belt goes in under the pulley on lower drivers side, when all timed, twist round and over so it sits in it's proper position.
pull pin out of tensioner, wait for slack to be taken up
rotate engine clockwise with pulley bolt, round a few times to check the belt is really in correct position.
put it all back together!
The workshop manual is more compreshensive, but the above covers most of the important points.
Paul
02 May 2004, 10:53 PM
#148
I was told there is a point in the scooby 'alignment' where all the cams are not under any pressure from any valve spring, so the cams will not try to move when the belt is removed. This relaxed point is also indicated on the belt from Subaru.
Is this so?
Guess this is when the marks Paul mentions are in full alignment. If so the wedges are not needed (but good idea!)
911
Is this so?
Guess this is when the marks Paul mentions are in full alignment. If so the wedges are not needed (but good idea!)
911
04 May 2004, 12:14 AM
#150
\m/ ^_^ \m/
Thread Starter
over the 3 days i've got the cambelt done, cam covers replaced, AC all connected back up, bonnet pins properly fitted and the IC water spray moved to the boot
so i now have the windscreen washer bottle where it should be & a nice big empty area in front of the air filter ready for an airbox to be constructed, had a real job getting the windscreen washer jets working, took all of 2 days to work out the wires must have been cut to the front washer bottle in the crash and then finding a wiring diagram to rewire them
so i now have the windscreen washer bottle where it should be & a nice big empty area in front of the air filter ready for an airbox to be constructed, had a real job getting the windscreen washer jets working, took all of 2 days to work out the wires must have been cut to the front washer bottle in the crash
and then finding a wiring diagram to rewire them