Thanks all. I think I'd rather weld up (well not me doing the welding LOL I'd treat it like a big soldering iron and make holes in the thing) the TMIC on a new age car rather than fit a FMIC unless I needed to.

 

Now, how do i interpret that?

 

I was thinking that on a new age car with a nice TMIC already, it would be nice to keep it if possible. I had considered taking the FMIC off mine and fitting an STI TMIC.

 

Why?
Is there noticably more lag with the front-mount?

 

I'm running a STi i/c (1.5bar)on mine and found, as Floyd points out, that the crimped seams can give way. It probably doesnt help that it bangs around.

Wouldn't bother with welding unless it leaks.

Bob

 

 

I just used a hammer and screwdriver to knock the crimping into place. Seems to be holding up fine.


Bob

 

Duncan, I've not done a back to back on the same turbo at all recently - I switched when I had an MD304 on a 2.0. The long pipe runs look an inelegant mess and the cooling suffers I think on my present setup.

 

Ah cooling, I'm with you.

 

I have a few new 2.2T CDB shortblocks for sale! I am not in a hurry, as they will not become cheaper over time......

Not too much extra costs to make a 2.33 out of it (with phase 2 EJ257 crank)

Mark.

 

Where can I buy genuine ARP head studs of standard size?

I'm getting Cometic gaskets that have a sort of O-ring idea in them but don't need the head to be machined.

One last fling on this engine as I think that I will still need a big turbo hit in my life...

 

http://www.endlessracingdesigns.co.uk/

try these

 

Thanks Steve.

 

Have you asked Mark? He got me mine, and tends to keep them in stock

 

Didn't know if his were ARP as I had some before with the first EJ257.

 

Yep, AFAICT the only non ARP studs Mark has used were some specials that SMG had made...they certainly weren't standard size though

 

John, a question for you. Where do you think the threshold for power verses driveability is?

I've noticed that I tend to drive at 2krpm on busy roads, which means the highest gear that will be tolerated by the engine. Now when I want to overtake then its a change down and WOT, which is OK. My problem is when you just want to keep up with traffic that is constantly changing speed, say between 45 and 55 MPH and then its quite tiresome. The extra power has made this worse for me although it was just about tolerable on the TD04 (standard spec). If you push the throttle lightly then nothing much happens at 2krpm and the cars in front pull away. Push a bit harder, wait, wait, its building now and I'm now getting to close to the car in front, off the throttle - bu66er they're slowing down again!

I guess we are talking about lag here but also something else. Even if you have a spool at 2600 say, you will still have a period of low response before that power building stage where the engine wants to do its stuff and throw you into your seat. Its the gap between 2krpm and a controlled wave of torque that's missing for me. My old N/A 2.0 was ace at the slow stuff and would be great at the low rpm instant acceleration but crap at the 3krpm onwards.

Try driving your elderly relatives in heavy traffic and I bet you'll be concentrating quite hard to drive really smoothly. The more power the worse it gets and the throttle control gets harder. I have a very flat torque curve and it doesn't help as the gradient to it is too steep for this.

F
PS I'm rambling again...

 

typed a reply but it disappeared?

I used to find the same Floyd but have perfected changing down so as not to remove my nan's false teeth when I have to brake hard when I catch the car in front up.

I don't think the UK gearbox ratios help matters..

You would be what 400rpm higher on an STi box and diff etc..

Simon

 

"You would be what 400rpm higher on an STi box and diff etc.."

... and always reaching for 7th gear?

Floyd, this is the reason why the M3 grew on me in the end, it is a more useful and mature power delivery.

I think my personal threshold for really nice driveability on a classic Subaru with a single scroll turbo is a TD04 hybrid to VF35 size with a UK 7000 RPM limit, and a TD05 (I would think 18G but am extrapolating because I haven't driven one just 16G and 20G) with an STI 8000 RPM limit (with the gearing that goes with it). 400 BHP on a 2.5 with 7000 limit works well also.

So I think I'm saying about 160 BHP/litre for a 7000 RPM limit with present single scroll turbo technology?

However, it still has the deficiencies you mention at this level, to remove these I think you are down to about 120 BHP/litre on a very short exhaust manifold (thinking of a few examples like a remapped VAG 1.8T here). Even that has deficiencies in low down spool that get you if you start driving it like a six cylinder - you lag on the way out of roundabouts if you are in 3rd rather than 2nd gear.

If I end up selling my Scooby, I wondered about selling it as standard plus AP 4 pots, 2.5 litre engine (don't have the original brakes and engine) and remap to say 240 BHP/270 lbft - at 60000 miles, 2000X with new headgaskets, oil/filter, cambelt (on TD04, stock exhaust, TMIC). I wonder if it would fetch £7k and then sell off all the approx £7k of other stuff separately or as options with the car such as:

6 speed with light flywheel and uprated 240mm clutch £2.5k
Exhaust inc HKS manifold £600
APS FMIC £300
Fuel pump/SX reg and injectors £400 PowerFC/AVCR/Datalogit/Gauges £1000
P1 suspension/Whiteline bits £500
17s & new tyres £400
ICE bits £200
GT30R-12 up/downpipes/wastegate/inlet £1000

How would you guys try to dispose of a car like this?

 

I think that is really the only way to dispose of the car without losing lots on money.



New username for car advert might be useful.. lol

Simon

 

John,

You could part-ex + cash on the engine and brakes.

Its sad to strip a car which has taken so long to build but its the only way to minimise the losses.


Bob

 

I suppose I could Bob, but I would be worried about what I was exchanging with engine wise with an engine I couldn't see running unless it was someone I knew, and a decent engine from a supplier would cost me rather than save me? I suppose an entirely standard car would be easier to shift.

 

Hmmm, now thats got me thinking....

I'll give you what you want for the turbo & bits. Could even part ex. a 20G as well.

---john---

 

Thanks John. More at the planning stage at the moment so don't delay a purchase on my account. I've not forgotten your radiator as well

 

Plan away John, a spare is always handy. Again RAD is no problem, season is now finished, so car will not be in one piece till next March. If you do split it up keep me in mind.

---john---

 

John, now the M3 makes sense! When I had a ride in a M3 CSL around the Ring it really showed me what it could do and how ludicrously easy it was to drive insanely fast and look good while doing it.

I'll still keep my scoob even if I get another fast car. I feel the project isn't finished yet and I'm probably trying to achieve the perfect package for me. I've just got to fill that 2krpm-3krpm hole

Brakes are sorted but suspension isn't finished yet; its getting there though.

F

 

I can concur that I have ran up to 1.7bar on my Spec C TMIC (with OEM dump valve) without any issues.

Regards,
Shaun.

 

John: I think there would be some people out there with perfectly healthy 2.0l looking at upgrading to a 2.5.

If I wasnt getting such good results on my 2.0 I may have been tempted to do a part-ex of say £1500ish. Would certainly save the buyer alot of hassle with the build.

You could get the buyer to come to you (or vice-versa) and swap the engines out and both be on your way.

Just an idea.

Bob

 

Small ball bearing turbo with the right housings, and a 2.5 engine would give you what you are looking for I think. Perhaps the JDM twin scroll with EJ257?

Paul

 

I think I'll try a twin scroll with the 2.0l before the leap to 2.5l.

F