cleaning engine
02 April 2003, 08:52 AM
#122
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Right just managed to read it all
I want some ,where do i get it
I was a valeter for 4 yrs and it is hard work and not as easy
as buying a bottle of gunk and a jetwash from BQ.
There is a lot to ie: do things in the right order
so you dont mess up things youve already done
I have never spoken to mark,but have read many good things
about his work,so people with any doubts should try it and
then criticise if it doesnt do as it says.
Just my thoughts
cheers mouse
I want some ,where do i get it
I was a valeter for 4 yrs and it is hard work and not as easy
as buying a bottle of gunk and a jetwash from BQ.
There is a lot to ie: do things in the right order
so you dont mess up things youve already done
I have never spoken to mark,but have read many good things
about his work,so people with any doubts should try it and
then criticise if it doesnt do as it says.
Just my thoughts
cheers mouse
02 April 2003, 12:14 PM
#123
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Mark,
Please could you email me the instructions?
Cheers!
Sorry to jack the thread but Scoty - where did you get that heatshield that separates your induction from the rest of the engine bay??
Steve
Please could you email me the instructions?
Cheers!
Sorry to jack the thread but Scoty - where did you get that heatshield that separates your induction from the rest of the engine bay??
Steve
02 April 2003, 06:44 PM
#124
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I am incredibly busy at the moment what with travelling and writing magazine articles etc. On page 6 of this thread you'll see that I have asked if peeps can email me if they want the instructions etc.
mark@swissol.com OR waxwizard@blueyonder.co.uk
mark@swissol.com OR waxwizard@blueyonder.co.uk
04 April 2003, 09:25 AM
#126
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any info on zymol would be great as i am trying to make my scooby look reallyyyy sparkly as i have not that long bought it,i have noticed some swirl marks on the bodywork and it is bugging me as to how to get it off.....
cheers biggerkev
cheers biggerkev
04 April 2003, 12:46 PM
#128
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biggerkev...
3 posts above this one....
Email Mark Underwood at either address shown....
I spoke with him last night while odering some products to clean the engine bay.....
He is VERY helpful and full of knowledge and will help you choose what is right for you....
Waiting for my delivery so I can see how clean the engine bay will look....
If it works I'll post before and after piccies!!
Cheers
3 posts above this one....
Email Mark Underwood at either address shown....
I spoke with him last night while odering some products to clean the engine bay.....
He is VERY helpful and full of knowledge and will help you choose what is right for you....
Waiting for my delivery so I can see how clean the engine bay will look....
If it works I'll post before and after piccies!!
Cheers
04 April 2003, 01:42 PM
#129
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Scoty,
I had a feeling you were going to say that you'd made it!! Have you noticed much improvement since fitting it? Have you got cold air coming in from anywhere else or are you just stopping the induction drawing in warm air from the engine bay? I've got a Blitz induction fitted and I'm sure it would perform better if it wasn't just drawing in warm air straight from the engine bay.
Steve
I had a feeling you were going to say that you'd made it!! Have you noticed much improvement since fitting it? Have you got cold air coming in from anywhere else or are you just stopping the induction drawing in warm air from the engine bay? I've got a Blitz induction fitted and I'm sure it would perform better if it wasn't just drawing in warm air straight from the engine bay.
Steve
07 April 2003, 10:17 AM
#132
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If you would like the instructions for doing the engine bay/wheels I will happily oblige. However in order to get them please read what is asked for about 6 posts up. English language seems to be a difficulty!
03 July 2003, 01:43 PM
#138
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Using the WW products I thought the results were very impressive though which at the end of the day............
And expensive...
If you've got a cr4ppy engine compartment, then get somebody else to clean it for you, your going to be pleased with it.
use Jizer and WD40 if want a finish to the hoses and blackwork and save £££££££££s
[Edited by G-NASHER - 3/7/2003 2:01:15 PM]
And expensive...
If you've got a cr4ppy engine compartment, then get somebody else to clean it for you, your going to be pleased with it.
use Jizer and WD40 if want a finish to the hoses and blackwork and save £££££££££s
[Edited by G-NASHER - 3/7/2003 2:01:15 PM]
03 July 2003, 03:44 PM
#139
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lees2...I find it incredible that I have sent you instructions that says use a brush and lacquer.....below is what I email peeps and no mention of lacquer. I wish somebody would send out the correct instructions. When I did Alan Bells scooby on Sunday evening I did NOT cover the intercooler, nor did I use a lacquer nor did I use a stipling brush.....strange...somebody out there obviously tryinh to emulate my products and methodology.
Warm the engine for 10 mins and then switch off. Begin by misting Degreaser (If ordered) over the engine. Then spray Multiclean (has a very orangey aroma) all over the top of the engine and to the underside of the bonnet.
Once this has been done, lower bonnet but do nut shut fully. Now wash the car using a pressure washer to loosen all road dirt etc.
Open bonnet and with the engine still switched off, pressure wash the engine bay and the underside of the bonnet. Now check to see if all grease and dirty black Cosmoline (transit paraffin based wax) has been removed. If required reapply Multiclean and allow to soak in for a few minutes. Now pressure wash again. Be careful not to aim the pressure washer jet onto the intercooler or alarm housing!!!
When done, restart engine but do not rev it…let it merely idle now until the coolant fan cuts in at least twice and then switch off again. Now using an old towel, mop up excess water from battery, air filter etc.
If you have been supplied with Protector, mist this over the wet engine, in place of towel drying. This product will turn white when it meets water. Allow the engine to idle or take for a driven and the engine heat will allow the Protector to dry. Net result awesome finish. With a tissue soak up the odd puddle of Protector for a professional finish.
IF ANYONE WANTS THE INSTRUCTIONS BY EMAIL PLEASE EMAIL ME....THAT WAS THE REQUEST EARLIER IN THIS THREAD.
The protector I make is water based and will not yellow over time nor will it peel off as it aint a lacquer. It is sprayed onto a wet engine and allowed to drive.
The use of Gunk...well that can melt your driveway if you aint carewful. Multiclean is a natural degreaser and is also used for alloy wheel cleaning, spot removal on fabrics, used for headlining cleaning etc etc etc. I also use it to clean soft tops as well cleaning bodywork....no acidic and a natural product. See if Gunk can do all this. People in the know like Gossy The Valeter and use Multiclean by the bucket load.
[Edited by Mark Underwood - 3/7/2003 3:49:09 PM]
Warm the engine for 10 mins and then switch off. Begin by misting Degreaser (If ordered) over the engine. Then spray Multiclean (has a very orangey aroma) all over the top of the engine and to the underside of the bonnet.
Once this has been done, lower bonnet but do nut shut fully. Now wash the car using a pressure washer to loosen all road dirt etc.
Open bonnet and with the engine still switched off, pressure wash the engine bay and the underside of the bonnet. Now check to see if all grease and dirty black Cosmoline (transit paraffin based wax) has been removed. If required reapply Multiclean and allow to soak in for a few minutes. Now pressure wash again. Be careful not to aim the pressure washer jet onto the intercooler or alarm housing!!!
When done, restart engine but do not rev it…let it merely idle now until the coolant fan cuts in at least twice and then switch off again. Now using an old towel, mop up excess water from battery, air filter etc.
If you have been supplied with Protector, mist this over the wet engine, in place of towel drying. This product will turn white when it meets water. Allow the engine to idle or take for a driven and the engine heat will allow the Protector to dry. Net result awesome finish. With a tissue soak up the odd puddle of Protector for a professional finish.
IF ANYONE WANTS THE INSTRUCTIONS BY EMAIL PLEASE EMAIL ME....THAT WAS THE REQUEST EARLIER IN THIS THREAD.
The protector I make is water based and will not yellow over time nor will it peel off as it aint a lacquer. It is sprayed onto a wet engine and allowed to drive.
The use of Gunk...well that can melt your driveway if you aint carewful. Multiclean is a natural degreaser and is also used for alloy wheel cleaning, spot removal on fabrics, used for headlining cleaning etc etc etc. I also use it to clean soft tops as well cleaning bodywork....no acidic and a natural product. See if Gunk can do all this. People in the know like Gossy The Valeter and use Multiclean by the bucket load.
[Edited by Mark Underwood - 3/7/2003 3:49:09 PM]
03 October 2003, 03:59 PM
#140
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Having been accused by G-Nasher that the process etc is a CON in his words and has failed to check numerous threads as to the results...to say that I am p*ssed off is an understatement.
Mr Nash....because of clowns like you who think that you know the be all and end all of everything....I no longer will give something for free.
You had the cheek and the rudeness mearly to a blank email with the words A CON in bold type yet you are not man enough to explain or even able to express yourself as to your conclusion.
Many peeps here on this board have had their engine bays treated by me and others have used the products to sterling effect.
Mr Nash...if you can make the products yourself and perform the work to my standards...then let us all see what you can do before you start calling people a con.
GOODBYE MR GRAHAM NASH IN YOUR VENTURES OF MAKING PRODUCTS AND CLEANING ENGINES. The sad thing is a few peeps who requested the info have said thank you.....but zero from you.
[Edited by Mark Underwood - 3/10/2003 4:01:29 PM]
Mr Nash....because of clowns like you who think that you know the be all and end all of everything....I no longer will give something for free.
You had the cheek and the rudeness mearly to a blank email with the words A CON in bold type yet you are not man enough to explain or even able to express yourself as to your conclusion.
Many peeps here on this board have had their engine bays treated by me and others have used the products to sterling effect.
Mr Nash...if you can make the products yourself and perform the work to my standards...then let us all see what you can do before you start calling people a con.
GOODBYE MR GRAHAM NASH IN YOUR VENTURES OF MAKING PRODUCTS AND CLEANING ENGINES. The sad thing is a few peeps who requested the info have said thank you.....but zero from you.
[Edited by Mark Underwood - 3/10/2003 4:01:29 PM]
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