flat4

what i'am not able to quite understand is having to 'T' the pressure relief valve and not run it 'inline', surely the boost will go straight past the the 'T' point and into the sensor, i thought the job of the relief valve was to stop any boost going past it until it hit a certain pressure then let it past and into the sensor, and then because the boost was past 14.5psi cause fuel cut

i might be making this harder than it needs to be


kev

flat4

also had no luck getting one of these today, went to the place i linked to earlier in this thread, helpful but not got anything, got pointed to a place over the road, helpful but no use but did get Norgren's phone number


kev

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

If you install the grey one inline, the map sensor will see no signal below eg 16psi...
The Map sensor must see manifold pressure all the time. Hence I Tee-d it..

flat4

that's what i was trying to get at now i know both will do the same job

...but how are we going to keep the fuel cut if the map sensor is not going to see anything over 1 bar with either setup?


kev

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

It may try and bleed off all the air, but it doesnt really. The fuel cut will still be there, if adjusted well. It may not be axactly the same place everytime, but it will still be there.
Im not a pneumatics expert, Ive just tried it, and it works. I have a boost guage anyway, so I can see if its getting too much, so not having a boost cut doesnt really worry me. I am my own safety device ( famous last words ) Im also using a Blitz boost controller, so my boost control is pretty much steady whatever I set it at.

flat4

just setup an account on the norgren website (i now work in fluid control ) pressure relief valve is 18.38, pressure regulator is about a quid dearer

1/4" port size, 0.3-2 bar < sound about right?


kev

flat4

http://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk...ctCode=S050102

even get a gauge with this one for 12 quid


kev

flat4

i might add that the above probably won't be self relieving, and completely useless

got some other places to try today


kev

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Yea, all that relieving, non relieving, venting etc etc is confusing. They dont really do what they say, or at least what I think they say. Thats why the one thats simply closed until a set pressure is the easiest to understand ( the grey one )

flat4

you say that, but trying to get that valve is difficult, got the number for the derby stockist for Norgren, but didn't seem to know that part number you gave me, there seems to be a few different types:


Excelon 72 Series Relief Valve 0.3-2bar (V72G-2GK-NCN)

Excelon design allows in-line installation or modular installation with other Excelon products

Push to lock adjusting **** with tamper resistant accessory

Helps protect air operated equipment from over pressure by retarding excessive pressure build up


Ported Relief Valve G1/4 Diaphragm type 0.3-9bar (V07-200-NNLG)

Protect compressed air systems from over- pressurisation

1002 & 61A2/61B2 - Simple, low cost ‘Pop’ type units for direct connection to pressure vessels and associated components

40AC types - pilot operated units that can be installed at any point in the compressed air system without regard to accessibility – a pilot regulator can be installed in the most convenient location


the one you quoted is the 2nd on the list, and the difference is?


kev

flat4

well, tried again this lunch time, did't have any luck with the Norgren stuff, but have ordered a Flowtech pressure regulator with an extra 0-2 bar spring, lets hope it works cause the bloke on the counter didn't know anything about them (why does he work there then? )


kev

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Ported Relief Valve G1/4 Diaphragm type 0.3-9bar (V07-200-NNLG)

The no. I gave may have misleaded you. The part you describe above is the one I used. The NNLG refers to the operating range of 0.3-9bar ( the L actually ) Therefore the part number I gave you was NNCG, which should have been the 0.3-2bar reg.
When I tried to buy it, they too didnt list a part number for the 2 bar reg, although it did say it was available in the catalogue.
I ended up using the NNLG, and got a selection of springs from the retailer ( he also repaired air tools, and had a few springs lying about ), and after trying a few, got the operating range down to about 2 bar.

flat4

don't worry about, we'll see if the one i've ordered does the job (that's presuming it turns up tomorrow ) went with the regulator because it's easier to get hold of, ordered the correct spring for it aswell (2 bar) as posted above


kev

tonymy01

See guys, while you are all pondering which valve is going to do the job (and I must say, they look like a severe overkill with big meters hanging off!), you could have trundled over to your nearest electronic hobby store, and bought the few pounds worth of components to have a nice stealthy electronic solution built
R's
Tony

flat4

the thought had crossed my mind, but not got time to learn all that stuff again need it by saturday anyway


kev

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Im not very good with electronics. If I want that type of solution, I will buy a programmable ecu. The pneumatic method is really simple.

Dr Turbo

So does anybody knows WICH is the BOOST Sensor for a MY00 WRX?
There are actually 3 electronic devices conected to vacuum, the three of them toghether in the right hand side of the car, under the hood, in front of the right strut.

Cheers !

Dr Turbo

The MAP Sensor THOU...is the one that measures Air Density & Temperature, and it's located at the Air Inttake, just after the Air Filter. There is a Solenoid Valve for Boost Control and Two other sensors conected to the boost/vacuum lines....I don't know wich oine is which one because they all look very similar, and what does the third one does...
Cheers!

flat4

kev

Dr Turbo

The best thing you can do, is not cheating the ECU, or any sensor...get someone to remap you engine, It's gona be cheaper than buying an electronic Boost controler, and more reliable, because you'll have no cuts, and the ECU will have all the correct information to take the Best desitions.

Also if you've got more money, try a competition ECU, wich will add feautres like having 2 or more differet preset maps for you to play with, plus Antilag, Launch control, data loggin, etc!

Chees.

PS: The cheap correct way was discussed before...get a one Way valve wich lets boost out, but no vacuum in !

tweenierob

Flat 4.. you have fitted it in the wrong pipe i think..
If you fit the fuel cut raiser in the pipe that goes directly into the map sensor you will get CEL..
If you fit it in the pipe from the manifold to the brown solenoid which links to the map sensor then it will not come on..
Rob.
excuse me if i have missunderstood but i have not read the rest of the thread.. just the last 4-5 posts..

tweenierob

see pic

flat4

not sure what CEL is, but i've stuck it in the manifold to brown solenoid, might try blocking the hole off tomorrow and see what happens


kev

tweenierob

Sorry kev
Check engine light..
gonna read the whole thread now
Rob

flat4

does the map sensor read vacuum aswell as boost?


kev

tonymy01

Yes, the MAP sensor does read vacuum and boost. It is called a "Manifold *Absolute* Pressure" sensor. It will read from ?? (some large vacuum) to about 2 BAR (well, the MY01/02 reads up to close to 2 bar). At idle, it is pumping out 1.4V , at 0 psi, it is 2.3V, at 15psi, it is 3.76V.
You didn't read the thread that John Banks started on I-Club I take it? Start from the beginning, and stop before you get to my circuit (Johns one is far simpler, and because the adjustable fuel cut part of my circuit doesn't appear to do what it is suppposed to do, my circuit is a little too complex for what it *does* do). John also talks about his pneumatic solution on this thread I believe.
This is why the electronic solution has a "knee" point, so that it doesn't alter the signal until the knee is hit, which can be set to around 2.4V or so, so that only positive relative pressure is affected. Your previous to MY01 models, according to John, measures the ambient pressure with your MAP sensor, to obtain a relative pressure measurement... and no-one is really sure if it uses the vacuum measurement for anything?
If you think that soldering one 8 legged component with a couple of resistors and 4 wires is too difficult (don't let that bigger circuit freak you, it is still very simple), then a Fuel Cut Defender (electronic) does do exactly what those circuits do. Actually, Turbosmart here in Aus sells a Pneumatic fuel cut defender which probably does the same thing you guys are trying to achieve by bleeding off a fraction of boost AFTER a set pressure is hitting the MAP (hmm, maybe it is a bit dumber, and bleeding off at all times.. not 100% sure).
Good luck anyway, I am sure one of you will knock this problem on the head!
Regards
Tony

flat4

well i tried to get something to block off the hole today, but not much luck, seems like it's a bit of a weird thread size (M10 with a very fine pitch) anyway, ended up putting some insulating tape over the hole for a quick fix and it solved the CEL problem just need to do it properly now

oh, and the rolling road session, 258 BHP a bit more than i was expecting


kev

UkLegacyT

258brake, well done mate

what mods have you got?

ian.

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Tweenierob, both the pipes you indicate are actually correct. The line to the MAP sensor passes through that little solenoid for some resaon. Either line should work fine. Flat 4, now you see why I used the valve in the way I did. Some of the regulators dont work in quite the way you would think.
The thread may well me Metric Fine, or it could be some sort of pipe thread eg, BSP or similar.

flat4

258bhp - HKS filter, 3" turbo back (no cats), 1bar boost, ported manifold + uppipe, de-resonated intake & an ecotek

rollers were giving poor results apparently


i'll get the pressure regulator fixed when i can get bolt to fit, shouldn't be too hard, didn't need it in the end car ran under fuel cut (must have been the weather ) might turn it up to 15-16psi and get 300bhp


kev