engine rebuilds
#31
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group n :- is out of all the cranks that are made the best of the best are put to one side and then thay are chequed over mm by mm to make sure thay are perfect and also in perfect balance group n means normal but special simply put
#32
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the u.s.a car industry isn't know for being the best in the world (y do you think so meny films take the **** out of it)
but its size is what makes the parts so cheep
but its size is what makes the parts so cheep
#33
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So a bog standard crank then. Hmmm, lets start a DIY fitting Chevy V8 rods into an impreza thread then. It is sickening though, why everything is so cheap over there ( in fact almost anywhere else in the world... US, Oz, Japan.) . We get ripped off with everything.
It is usually cheaper to buy any performance parts abroad, even after paying taxes.
It is usually cheaper to buy any performance parts abroad, even after paying taxes.
#35
Trout,
I know you are not frivilous, but sometimes your responses sound like there is no cheap (well better value) solution that the ultimate one.
Actually my kit price was pretty high, I had a look and £3k is more like it.
But you should be able to get the following at book prices (so you can get them cheaper, probably just by demanding a discount if you get it all from one or 2 places)
Steel I section rods £750
Forged JE pistons £800
Rebore & Hone £300
Ring set £180
Billet Steel Crank £1300 (£500 for std new one)
Bearings £250
Gaskets £300
Belts £150
Injectors £600
Turbo hybriding £700
Front Mount InterCooler £1100
Hoses £200
Other **** £500 (generous amount)
Oil £20 (cheap running in)
Oil £40 (fully synthetic)
Labour £1500 (generous amount)
Total £8700 ish.
I think the above is reasonable, and some expensive items you can strike from the list if you are not going for big power, like the intercooler, turbo hybriding, billet steel crank, bringing the total to more like £5000
Paul
I know you are not frivilous, but sometimes your responses sound like there is no cheap (well better value) solution that the ultimate one.
Actually my kit price was pretty high, I had a look and £3k is more like it.
But you should be able to get the following at book prices (so you can get them cheaper, probably just by demanding a discount if you get it all from one or 2 places)
Steel I section rods £750
Forged JE pistons £800
Rebore & Hone £300
Ring set £180
Billet Steel Crank £1300 (£500 for std new one)
Bearings £250
Gaskets £300
Belts £150
Injectors £600
Turbo hybriding £700
Front Mount InterCooler £1100
Hoses £200
Other **** £500 (generous amount)
Oil £20 (cheap running in)
Oil £40 (fully synthetic)
Labour £1500 (generous amount)
Total £8700 ish.
I think the above is reasonable, and some expensive items you can strike from the list if you are not going for big power, like the intercooler, turbo hybriding, billet steel crank, bringing the total to more like £5000
Paul
#36
Pavlo,
and you think I live in mega money land
What you have posted here is similar to what I have posted elsewhere - still don't understand your comment earlier - it was such a non-secateur.
Anyway - let's park that one - I think the list is comprehensive - but can be varied if you do not have a block - or want to change the block you have. That could be the biggest single expense item.
Oh - and add a couple of packets of plastiguage
Trout
PS Just checked my earlier posts - I thought £7-10k should be the budget...
[Edited by Trout - 8/28/2002 9:03:22 AM]
and you think I live in mega money land
What you have posted here is similar to what I have posted elsewhere - still don't understand your comment earlier - it was such a non-secateur.
Anyway - let's park that one - I think the list is comprehensive - but can be varied if you do not have a block - or want to change the block you have. That could be the biggest single expense item.
Oh - and add a couple of packets of plastiguage
Trout
PS Just checked my earlier posts - I thought £7-10k should be the budget...
[Edited by Trout - 8/28/2002 9:03:22 AM]
#37
dude, it's dead and buried.
£7-10k is probably about right if you went the whole turbo, internals, block, fuelling route.
Depends what you start with. I've seen plenty of results from people getting 350+hp from an open deck block with just factory head gaskets.
Tim Whiteside is selling a closed deck block, wants a fair bit for it though.
Putting Wills rings on a regular block should keep the bangs in, and Pat's been looking at getting some copper head gaskets laser cut in varying thicknesses for about £35.
Probably worth adding some head studs and nuts to replace the bolts.
Paul
£7-10k is probably about right if you went the whole turbo, internals, block, fuelling route.
Depends what you start with. I've seen plenty of results from people getting 350+hp from an open deck block with just factory head gaskets.
Tim Whiteside is selling a closed deck block, wants a fair bit for it though.
Putting Wills rings on a regular block should keep the bangs in, and Pat's been looking at getting some copper head gaskets laser cut in varying thicknesses for about £35.
Probably worth adding some head studs and nuts to replace the bolts.
Paul
#38
I dont think trout had it wrong in the first place,
and I am certain that it does end up costing a lot more for things you havent considered.
Eg. deck heights do not necessarily end up the same requiring machining somewhere, if you are strengthening you need to consider uprating other bits to handle the power too, such as gearbox, clutch, engine mounts, transmission mount etc.
Thens theres the fuel system, oil cooler etc.
You get to the position where you want to strengthen but dont know where to stop strengthening and thats where the price escalates.
For Just the engine and no ancillaries, I think 7 to 10k is reasonable, if you want it built well.
and I am certain that it does end up costing a lot more for things you havent considered.
Eg. deck heights do not necessarily end up the same requiring machining somewhere, if you are strengthening you need to consider uprating other bits to handle the power too, such as gearbox, clutch, engine mounts, transmission mount etc.
Thens theres the fuel system, oil cooler etc.
You get to the position where you want to strengthen but dont know where to stop strengthening and thats where the price escalates.
For Just the engine and no ancillaries, I think 7 to 10k is reasonable, if you want it built well.
#39
Just for laughs, I will put together my budget for said operation.
It will somewhat cheaper than 7-10k, but of course there will be minimal labour charges as would be doing most of the work myself (and yes, that would include machining pistons where neccessary).
FWIW there was a thread a while back that detailed someones expenses for a Sti 5 rebuild to factory spec, total was about £5600 all in, from dropping the car off to picking it up.
Paul
It will somewhat cheaper than 7-10k, but of course there will be minimal labour charges as would be doing most of the work myself (and yes, that would include machining pistons where neccessary).
FWIW there was a thread a while back that detailed someones expenses for a Sti 5 rebuild to factory spec, total was about £5600 all in, from dropping the car off to picking it up.
Paul
#40
Pavlo,
yeah, but if you have to amortise the cost of the machine tools to be able to do it yourself for just one engine it would be really expensive
I guess having the time and the skill to do the more engineering related elements of the build will be a great advantage - certainly my bodge work on other areas of the car has saved me 000's.
£5.6k sounds like a good deal if it is a good 'un - what was the build quality like tho the factory specs have a bit of leeway in the them
Trout
yeah, but if you have to amortise the cost of the machine tools to be able to do it yourself for just one engine it would be really expensive
I guess having the time and the skill to do the more engineering related elements of the build will be a great advantage - certainly my bodge work on other areas of the car has saved me 000's.
£5.6k sounds like a good deal if it is a good 'un - what was the build quality like tho the factory specs have a bit of leeway in the them
Trout
#41
I think it amounted to dealer level work. Factory spec, new cranks, 1 new rod, 1 new piston 4 valves etc etc, you get the picture.
If i didn't have the tools, I would still be able to measure, and get work done on pistons etc to drawing. Which I suspect is still cheaper than a prof rebuild, although it would definitely take longer.
Thing is there is a good chance that you can bolt the thing together with the minimum of fuss. But if the prof builder found that was the case, I doubt he would knock £500 off his price because it was so easy (and hence why he is still in business).
Paul
Paul
If i didn't have the tools, I would still be able to measure, and get work done on pistons etc to drawing. Which I suspect is still cheaper than a prof rebuild, although it would definitely take longer.
Thing is there is a good chance that you can bolt the thing together with the minimum of fuss. But if the prof builder found that was the case, I doubt he would knock £500 off his price because it was so easy (and hence why he is still in business).
Paul
Paul
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