Ouch, and the welds are not brittle?

Steve, were you part of the A-Team?
Your garage sounds full of great stuff for mercenaries.

Heat is not a bad thing for distortion, provided it's evenly distributed.

And I agree, how do manufacturers let crap out the door. Easily actually, it's always someone else that makes them, and it's always their fault.

A nice sharp file is surpisingly effective.

Edited to add:
Well, my idea of not too critical is flat to within about 0.1mm, rather than say 0.005mm that you could acheive on a high precision surface grinder, like Dave mentioned. It would possibly help the surface was a (very) little convex, as would happen by default if you file end to end.

Paul

[Edited by Pavlo - 7/21/2002 7:48:56 AM]

 

stevieturbo... I just get a pub bottle swapped for ten quid.. dont really want to spend £100 a year on gas.. when I can just spend 20 /30 for bottles... Id never use small bottles.. I have one sat inside the welder which is pure argon.... and have a small regulator just on the off chance that I may run out and need to do some welding.. (as halfords sell the bottles... as do b&q etc...) just cant get a decent flow with them bottles.. ok for a small mig.. but my 230A industrial one.. nah.

David

 

There is obviously the rental whcih cant be avoided, but unless you are doing a lot of welding, the bottle could easily last over a year. When I bought my mig, I bought it with a big roll of wire, thinking I would use a lot...it lasted me over 3 years..lol
Depends how much welding you do, I dont do a lot, and would just not be annoyed with small bottles. When I want to weld, I want the gas sitting there ready for me ( as it may be at 4 in the morning... )

 

I dont do that much.. 1 big reel lasts me about a year.. using 0.6wire at the mo as its mainly car bodywork...

Dont get me wrong... I couldnt use small bottles.... the regulator is there just incase... as small bottles are easier to find on a sunday evening at 8.00... A pub bottle is only about 10cm dia though.. still 1m high though...

Might have to rent a bottle... Now I need to find a cheap source of NO2 now.

David

 

Tim, any news on that up-pipe yet?? Eager Beaver and all!

 

ttt

 

If I remember right Tim is away for a few days.... so going to have to be patient!

 

doh.

David

 

hellooooo????

Tim?

David

 

Back now...but still no news hopefully I'll get hold of the man with the engine out and the pipe later on today...it's taking far too long to get this sorted, sorry chaps

 

Come on Tim... you can do it!

 

Picked up the prototype uppipe earlier, after trial fitting it to an engine at last It's ish ok, the mounting brackets need adjusting to make sure it fits, but that is possible with the manifold off, and I suspect that this should be done anyway looking at the way they fit.

Welding bolts or nuts onto the flanges is a bad idea we decided because if you have a problem later on with a stripped thread then you'll never get them out to replace I'm going to ask about helicoiling the first batch of flanges...but I expect this will add cost...I'll check...

 

Tim... don't even think about forgetting about me....

 

I'm sorry, and you are?

Chortle, chortle...

 

Well you dont need to know my answer!

 

Paul, I can but ask about the boss.

I don't think that the MY01 temp sender is a 1/8" bsp, I think it might be an M14...I will find out sometime

 

If I recall correctly, the temp sender thread is M10 x 1.5 pitch.

 

Thanks Dave, I'll check it with my local garage later!

 

Tim, put me down for one please...

 

okay, no boss required for me, I can bronzeweld or tig one in.

gimme gimme.

are we sending a cheque or what?

Paul

 

Paul, I don't think it will be too much trouble for them to weld on a lug which you could then drill and tap at leisure

I'll start ordering on Monday can anyone interested drop me an e-mail off line with their contact details (e-mail, phone and delivery address), I'll then give you my address to send the cheques to.

Right off to Elvington I go

 

Guys, probably stupid question, but here I go ...

Would it help fitting stiffer engine mounts ? (Proflex or what have you) OK, I can imagine more noise (NVH) etc... but it would keep the engine more "in place" hence maybe not nececitating a flex joint. (Less movement of engine alltogether)

Dumb idea ?

 

Yes Theo - yer dumb.

The manifold and uppipe are bolted to the engine...that sits on the mounts.



/J - with uprated mounts for the lump and gearbox - and I love 'em.

 

J, I could count on you to trash my idea.

But hold on you turnip... the manifold & uppipe are connected to the engine... surprise there eh BUT ... also connected to the turbo, which is connected to the downpipe, which is connected to the gearbox, and the gearbox is ... tada ... connected to the engine.

So, puh

 

LOL at the turnip and Theo - keep the Euro harmony going guys

 

not such a stupid idea, as the downpipe's connected to the, turbo, the turbo's connected to the, uppipe, the uppipe's connected to the headers and that's way of the scoob.

But, the downpipe is also connected to the body, so reducing enigne movement should reduce forces on turbo and uppipe. By how much it difficult to tell.

paul

 

Umm, where's the downpipe connected to the body? as far as I remember it's only attached to the turbo and the gearbox...then via a flexible joint to the rest of the exhaust systems wihich is suspended on rubbers mounted to the body...

 

my DP has a small tab that bolts to something near the ex system end, pretty sure it was the body when I did it, certainly didn't move much.

 

I think the temp sender thread is M12x1.25.
Just thought I'd say that before anyone gets too confident

 

chiark may have problems replying as he was off away for a bit..

Finally got caught

David