Spec C with an identity crisis
#31
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CRYSCV8C...dium=copy_link
not sure if this link will work. Didn’t sound too loud on first start up but won’t really be able to tell until it’s mapped and I can get it on boost.
not sure if this link will work. Didn’t sound too loud on first start up but won’t really be able to tell until it’s mapped and I can get it on boost.
#33
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#34
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Thanks, I do like a white blob! 😂
Thanks for the heads up on the exhaust. My mate has the same way on his dedicated track car and said he usually doesn’t have issues but avoids the strict tracks.
in the longer term I’ll probably speak with Ian at Hayward & Scott and get him to put a race box on it. That’s £700 that can wait a while though. I’m looking at Snetterton as a first outing and I think their limit is 105db so that should give me an idea of what it makes. One of my mates said that you can get an attachment that fixes to the tail pipe and acts as an additional silencer so I may explore that idea too. 👍
Thanks for the heads up on the exhaust. My mate has the same way on his dedicated track car and said he usually doesn’t have issues but avoids the strict tracks.
in the longer term I’ll probably speak with Ian at Hayward & Scott and get him to put a race box on it. That’s £700 that can wait a while though. I’m looking at Snetterton as a first outing and I think their limit is 105db so that should give me an idea of what it makes. One of my mates said that you can get an attachment that fixes to the tail pipe and acts as an additional silencer so I may explore that idea too. 👍
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#35
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i looked at the cobra but it isn’t cheap. With H&S I can drive it in and let them fit it so it’s perfect.
#36
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AFR gauge fitted and working
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#38
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And yes, I’ve finally fitted something myself! 😂 Found it quite liberating actually. 🕺
#39
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good work mate 👍 With regards to the afr gauge, As far as I’m aware my car is running ok but could a afr gauge tell me different?
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#40
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Thanks mate. Will tell you if it’s running rich or lean. I’ve never had one before but thought it was a good idea for a track car. Will probably look at getting an oil temp and pressure gauges and a water temp gauge at some point too.
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#41
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cheers mate, keep up the good work 👍👍
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#42
Scooby Regular
I want to add an AFR gauge because I'm thinking of upping the power again. I'm in that area where going up a few bhp is silly money. Where did you get your gauge from, far too many fakes on the market. AEM is the one I'm thinking of, can't find a defi one.
#43
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I bought it from fuel performance mate. It’s a full kit so you get everything, even the bung. Really easy to install too, although I did have the downpipe off already. I took the power from behind the dash clock.
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#44
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I finally got the registration through and plates went on yesterday. Mapping is booked for tomorrow, hoping for somewhere around 350bhp.
Also managed to pick up a bucket seat for the drivers side, will be fitted in the next few weeks.
I gave the old girl a quick wash and she came up well!
Also managed to pick up a bucket seat for the drivers side, will be fitted in the next few weeks.
I gave the old girl a quick wash and she came up well!
#46
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iTrader: (5)
Car is looking nice
How loud is that japspeed backbox? As in, will it pass noise tests etc (even the 98db ones)? I'm tempted by one, but not sure if I should just get another Miltek (mine's had all the wadding fall out..), drop down to a 2.5 scoobyworld thing, or get a Japspeed one.
How loud is that japspeed backbox? As in, will it pass noise tests etc (even the 98db ones)? I'm tempted by one, but not sure if I should just get another Miltek (mine's had all the wadding fall out..), drop down to a 2.5 scoobyworld thing, or get a Japspeed one.
#47
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Thread Starter
Car is looking nice
How loud is that japspeed backbox? As in, will it pass noise tests etc (even the 98db ones)? I'm tempted by one, but not sure if I should just get another Miltek (mine's had all the wadding fall out..), drop down to a 2.5 scoobyworld thing, or get a Japspeed one.
How loud is that japspeed backbox? As in, will it pass noise tests etc (even the 98db ones)? I'm tempted by one, but not sure if I should just get another Miltek (mine's had all the wadding fall out..), drop down to a 2.5 scoobyworld thing, or get a Japspeed one.
I want to be able to take it anywhere so hoping to have something below 85-90db static. I’ll check this one on my db checker when I have a chance. If you want to pm me your number I can send a video if you want.
#48
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Thanks Henrik. It’s pretty loud tbh, and it sounds a bit tinny too. The guy I borrowed this one from has one on his 2.1 track car but is changing it because he’s failed the noise test a couple of times now. I’ve also heard that most of the track day companies are changing the drive by limits so the max will be 92db now; I’m not sure if this is true but it came from a reliable source.
I want to be able to take it anywhere so hoping to have something below 85-90db static. I’ll check this one on my db checker when I have a chance. If you want to pm me your number I can send a video if you want.
I want to be able to take it anywhere so hoping to have something below 85-90db static. I’ll check this one on my db checker when I have a chance. If you want to pm me your number I can send a video if you want.
I was *just* at the limit at 100db static last time at brands. Didn't trigger any drive by alarms, thankfully, but too close for comfort. Think I might ditch the idea of another Miltek too and go straight for a resonated mid section and a 2.5" Afterburner Race box from Scoobyworld (http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/pro...qibt0tvme93bb5). In all honesty, I wish I still had my Prodrive backbox, but I sold it a couple of years ago, and the prices now are silly for a 20 year old used exhaust. I'd rather buy new than pay 200 for a used one
The Prodrive box + resonated afterburner centre section measured 88db usually, so much more civilized, but still not completely quiet.
#49
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I think from your description I think I'm going to steer away from the japspeed - no video required (but thank you for the offer!)
I was *just* at the limit at 100db static last time at brands. Didn't trigger any drive by alarms, thankfully, but too close for comfort. Think I might ditch the idea of another Miltek too and go straight for a resonated mid section and a 2.5" Afterburner Race box from Scoobyworld (http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/pro...qibt0tvme93bb5). In all honesty, I wish I still had my Prodrive backbox, but I sold it a couple of years ago, and the prices now are silly for a 20 year old used exhaust. I'd rather buy new than pay 200 for a used one
The Prodrive box + resonated afterburner centre section measured 88db usually, so much more civilized, but still not completely quiet.
I was *just* at the limit at 100db static last time at brands. Didn't trigger any drive by alarms, thankfully, but too close for comfort. Think I might ditch the idea of another Miltek too and go straight for a resonated mid section and a 2.5" Afterburner Race box from Scoobyworld (http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/pro...qibt0tvme93bb5). In all honesty, I wish I still had my Prodrive backbox, but I sold it a couple of years ago, and the prices now are silly for a 20 year old used exhaust. I'd rather buy new than pay 200 for a used one
The Prodrive box + resonated afterburner centre section measured 88db usually, so much more civilized, but still not completely quiet.
I honestly wouldn't recommend Japspeed products to anyone. The fitment is really poor and quality and finish could be much better too, I guess you get what you pay for. I'm taking the car to H&S this morning for Ian to take a look and price me for a silenced mid-pipe. I picked up a Cobra back box that is in nice condition so plan on using that with the H&S custom mid-pipe, should be nice and quiet.
#50
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Thread Starter
Quick update:
The intercooler stripped the threads from the intake side during mapping leaving a massive boost leak and causing us to abort.
The 1 hour 40 min drive home was not much fun!
My mate took the TMIC and helicoiled it for me. It should go back on at the weekend ready for mapping again. :-)
Another issue was the TGV's. Richard wasn't able to get them to open while mapping so recommended pinning them open manually. I removed the position sensor, opened them manually and then pull the sensor back on so they couldn't spring back. Has anyone else done this? I couldn't find anything about doing it this way on the internet but it seems like a quick fix until I have time to remove them completely. When it goes back to mapping we'll unplug the sensors and remove them from the map.
I also ran the car over to Hayward & Scott to see if they can make me a silenced centre pipe to match with the Cobra back box, still waiting for a date & price on that though. I still need to give the back box a polish.
It blew the bolts right out. Gasket is also junk.
The intercooler stripped the threads from the intake side during mapping leaving a massive boost leak and causing us to abort.
The 1 hour 40 min drive home was not much fun!
My mate took the TMIC and helicoiled it for me. It should go back on at the weekend ready for mapping again. :-)
Another issue was the TGV's. Richard wasn't able to get them to open while mapping so recommended pinning them open manually. I removed the position sensor, opened them manually and then pull the sensor back on so they couldn't spring back. Has anyone else done this? I couldn't find anything about doing it this way on the internet but it seems like a quick fix until I have time to remove them completely. When it goes back to mapping we'll unplug the sensors and remove them from the map.
I also ran the car over to Hayward & Scott to see if they can make me a silenced centre pipe to match with the Cobra back box, still waiting for a date & price on that though. I still need to give the back box a polish.
It blew the bolts right out. Gasket is also junk.
#51
Scooby Regular
I think you’ll find if you remove the TGV motors the car throws an error code & the ECU needs telling what’s what.
You can remove the morors from the TGV shaft though & leave them connected until the map / editing so the car thinks they’re working.
I looked into it heavily until I realised my blob didn’t have them as standard
You can remove the morors from the TGV shaft though & leave them connected until the map / editing so the car thinks they’re working.
I looked into it heavily until I realised my blob didn’t have them as standard
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#52
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Thread Starter
I think you’ll find if you remove the TGV motors the car throws an error code & the ECU needs telling what’s what.
You can remove the morors from the TGV shaft though & leave them connected until the map / editing so the car thinks they’re working.
I looked into it heavily until I realised my blob didn’t have them as standard
You can remove the morors from the TGV shaft though & leave them connected until the map / editing so the car thinks they’re working.
I looked into it heavily until I realised my blob didn’t have them as standard
You are correct about it throwing an error. At first I left the plugs to the sensors disconnected and the car spat its dummy out! Was really lumpy and wasn't boosting. So we stuck it on my mates laptop and realised that the boost wasn't passing 0.7 bar. I'd read somewhere ages ago that when the car is in limp mode it won't boost past 0.7 so we just plugged them back in and voila.
Also just heard back from H&S, exhaust should be ready next week!
#53
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i don't think you can just pin them open either without the CEL. From memory when I took mine apart, one side is a stepper motor to move the flaps, and the other looks like a sensor to see what the actual position is.
Have you got the manifold off? If yes, i *seem to recall* that the flaps are bolted to the shaft, and I was thinking at the time of doing mine of just taking the flaps out and leaving the bar in the middle. That way the sensors and stepper motor still work as they should, but the main restriction is gone (i think). Though tbh if you remove all of the things, you might as well port the rest of it, so maybe not worthwhile.
Have you got the manifold off? If yes, i *seem to recall* that the flaps are bolted to the shaft, and I was thinking at the time of doing mine of just taking the flaps out and leaving the bar in the middle. That way the sensors and stepper motor still work as they should, but the main restriction is gone (i think). Though tbh if you remove all of the things, you might as well port the rest of it, so maybe not worthwhile.
#54
Scooby Regular
2nd TGV deletes go for about £80, if you’re pissing around with it to the point it’ll need mapping anyway might as well delete the lot.
New gaskets & phonic spacers too
New gaskets & phonic spacers too
#56
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
i don't think you can just pin them open either without the CEL. From memory when I took mine apart, one side is a stepper motor to move the flaps, and the other looks like a sensor to see what the actual position is.
Have you got the manifold off? If yes, i *seem to recall* that the flaps are bolted to the shaft, and I was thinking at the time of doing mine of just taking the flaps out and leaving the bar in the middle. That way the sensors and stepper motor still work as they should, but the main restriction is gone (i think). Though tbh if you remove all of the things, you might as well port the rest of it, so maybe not worthwhile.
Have you got the manifold off? If yes, i *seem to recall* that the flaps are bolted to the shaft, and I was thinking at the time of doing mine of just taking the flaps out and leaving the bar in the middle. That way the sensors and stepper motor still work as they should, but the main restriction is gone (i think). Though tbh if you remove all of the things, you might as well port the rest of it, so maybe not worthwhile.
#57
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Thread Starter
It’s not about cost in this instance, it’s just a big job to have it all apart and with work and family commitments I find it tough to find that sort of time. So long as it works for now and I can start to get a few track days in before the end of the year, I’ll be happy.
#58
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
After going through 3 systems and none of them fitting, I took the car down to Haywood & Scott today to get the exhaust sorted once and for all.
I'd picked up a Cobra back box in nice condition and had asked Ian to make me a silenced mid pipe suitable for track day noise restrictions.
Once the car was on the ramp it became clear that the Japspeed down pipe was totally out of alignment. Ian got to work and fabricated a new pipe so everything now fits nicely.
The car is quiet but that's what I wanted so I can take it to any track without worrying about the sound check. It has a nice deep tone though and retains the iconic burble due to the unequal headers.
Gave the old thing a quick bath when I got it home as it was looking a bit sorry for itself.
Next up is mapping but at the moment I can't get any 99 ron so that will have to wait a bit longer....
After that, fit the new wheels and pads and get it out on track!
I'd picked up a Cobra back box in nice condition and had asked Ian to make me a silenced mid pipe suitable for track day noise restrictions.
Once the car was on the ramp it became clear that the Japspeed down pipe was totally out of alignment. Ian got to work and fabricated a new pipe so everything now fits nicely.
The car is quiet but that's what I wanted so I can take it to any track without worrying about the sound check. It has a nice deep tone though and retains the iconic burble due to the unequal headers.
Gave the old thing a quick bath when I got it home as it was looking a bit sorry for itself.
Next up is mapping but at the moment I can't get any 99 ron so that will have to wait a bit longer....
After that, fit the new wheels and pads and get it out on track!
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#60
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The price was very reasonable imo. It was exactly half the price that Cobra quoted me for their track day centre pipe (which wouldn't have fitted anyway due to the crap down pipe). Ian had to fabricate it to make it fit and still didn't ask for anything extra on the original quote. Top service as always from H&S.