MY2015 WRX STI - Updates
#241
Scooby Regular
the material they seem to use for the bells can crack with age / use (almost seems to go brittle??) and the replacement rotors are eye-watering expensive.......
we have built custom kits and also supplied the likes of AP Racing for years / only thing we really bother with from Alcon are their race monobloc calipers albeit we can get other things as required
can also sort any replacement / pad upgrades / etc
we have built custom kits and also supplied the likes of AP Racing for years / only thing we really bother with from Alcon are their race monobloc calipers albeit we can get other things as required
can also sort any replacement / pad upgrades / etc
#242
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
the material they seem to use for the bells can crack with age / use (almost seems to go brittle??) and the replacement rotors are eye-watering expensive.......
we have built custom kits and also supplied the likes of AP Racing for years / only thing we really bother with from Alcon are their race monobloc calipers albeit we can get other things as required
can also sort any replacement / pad upgrades / etc
we have built custom kits and also supplied the likes of AP Racing for years / only thing we really bother with from Alcon are their race monobloc calipers albeit we can get other things as required
can also sort any replacement / pad upgrades / etc
#243
Scooby Regular
obviously AP, in general, do not make bells to suit Alcon kits (or vice-versa) - one of the reasons we custom make various things and always have done....
#244
Scooby Regular
ap discs is 362mm with their bells or any aftermarket ones only correct brackets will be needed to keep discs in line with alcon calipers or i need new bells to?
Last edited by JdmSti2006; 12 November 2022 at 11:58 AM.
#245
Scooby Regular
if you already have a complete set of AP bells / rotors then in theory they could be 'matched' with any caliper by custom making the correct bracket (provision being they have the correct hub clearance, etc in the first place)
as mentioned your best to email the office direct to get a more specific answer and it saves cluttering the mans thread up.........
as mentioned your best to email the office direct to get a more specific answer and it saves cluttering the mans thread up.........
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#246
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So after having fitted the Alcons and then bedding them in, I’ve driven the car enough to be able to see the differences (and similarities) between those and the K Sports.
Initial bite and pedal feel is very similar between the two, both are impressive and give great pedal feel. Both are extremely adept at scrubbing off speed, with the Alcons being ever so slightly stronger which would be expected with a larger rotor (365mm vs 356mm). Neither of these kits suffer from any kind of fade during road driving, but then neither will really be put to the test on normal roads, they’ll show their real advantages on track, so difference between the two kits are marginal for every day use. There’s no doubt both are a big step up from the standard Brembos which I found a tendency to overheat, even with decent pads and discs.
For the money the KSports are impressive, of that there’s no doubt (just chuck away the KSport pads and invest in some DS2500’s or whatever your poison may be). The number of class winning Time Attack cars using them demonstrates that they aren’t just a poor man’s big brake kit, they really do work. The build quality is also extremely good, even when compared side by side with the Alcon kit.
I’ll need to get the car out on track again in the warmer months to really see how these Alcons will stand up to some proper abuse. They do look the part though 👌🏻.
Initial bite and pedal feel is very similar between the two, both are impressive and give great pedal feel. Both are extremely adept at scrubbing off speed, with the Alcons being ever so slightly stronger which would be expected with a larger rotor (365mm vs 356mm). Neither of these kits suffer from any kind of fade during road driving, but then neither will really be put to the test on normal roads, they’ll show their real advantages on track, so difference between the two kits are marginal for every day use. There’s no doubt both are a big step up from the standard Brembos which I found a tendency to overheat, even with decent pads and discs.
For the money the KSports are impressive, of that there’s no doubt (just chuck away the KSport pads and invest in some DS2500’s or whatever your poison may be). The number of class winning Time Attack cars using them demonstrates that they aren’t just a poor man’s big brake kit, they really do work. The build quality is also extremely good, even when compared side by side with the Alcon kit.
I’ll need to get the car out on track again in the warmer months to really see how these Alcons will stand up to some proper abuse. They do look the part though 👌🏻.
Last edited by Danjo; 17 November 2022 at 05:18 PM.
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#247
Scooby Regular
Looks like alcon race version kit is on another level( as expected) ,with oem brake lines cruising 30mph my car stopped almost instantly with me being throwed up from a seat on to a steering wheel,ap's are good but not as good. Think i will buy rear 356mm ksport kit.
Would be nice to have their carbon kit but way over 12k pounds
or ceramic Kolstrup kit made for ford but fit only 19"
3.5k not bad price
Would be nice to have their carbon kit but way over 12k pounds
or ceramic Kolstrup kit made for ford but fit only 19"
3.5k not bad price
Last edited by JdmSti2006; 17 November 2022 at 06:20 PM.
#248
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Looks like alcon race version kit is on another level ,with oem brake lines my car stopped almost instantly with me being throwed up from a seat on to a steering wheel,ap's are good but not as good. Think i will buy rear 356mm ksport kit.
Would be nice to have their carbon kit but way over 12k pounds
or ceramic Kolstrup kit made for ford but fit only 19"
3.5k not bad price
Would be nice to have their carbon kit but way over 12k pounds
or ceramic Kolstrup kit made for ford but fit only 19"
3.5k not bad price
#249
So after having fitted the Alcons and then bedding them in, I’ve driven the car enough to be able to see the differences (and similarities) between those and the K Sports.
Initial bite and pedal feel is very similar between the two, both are impressive and give great pedal feel. Both are extremely adept at scrubbing off speed, with the Alcons being ever so slightly stronger which would be expected with a larger rotor (365mm vs 356mm). Neither of these kits suffer from any kind of fade during road driving, but then neither will really be put to the test on normal roads, they’ll show their real advantages on track, so difference between the two kits are marginal for every day use. There’s no doubt both are a big step up from the standard Brembos which I found a tendency to overheat, even with decent pads and discs.
For the money the KSports are impressive, of that there’s no doubt (just chuck away the KSport pads and invest in some DS2500’s or whatever your poison may be). The number of class winning Time Attack cars using them demonstrates that they aren’t just a poor man’s big brake kit, they really do work. The build quality is also extremely good, even when compared side by side with the Alcon kit.
I’ll need to get the car out on track again in the warmer months to really see how these Alcons will stand up to some proper abuse. They do look the part though 👌🏻.
Initial bite and pedal feel is very similar between the two, both are impressive and give great pedal feel. Both are extremely adept at scrubbing off speed, with the Alcons being ever so slightly stronger which would be expected with a larger rotor (365mm vs 356mm). Neither of these kits suffer from any kind of fade during road driving, but then neither will really be put to the test on normal roads, they’ll show their real advantages on track, so difference between the two kits are marginal for every day use. There’s no doubt both are a big step up from the standard Brembos which I found a tendency to overheat, even with decent pads and discs.
For the money the KSports are impressive, of that there’s no doubt (just chuck away the KSport pads and invest in some DS2500’s or whatever your poison may be). The number of class winning Time Attack cars using them demonstrates that they aren’t just a poor man’s big brake kit, they really do work. The build quality is also extremely good, even when compared side by side with the Alcon kit.
I’ll need to get the car out on track again in the warmer months to really see how these Alcons will stand up to some proper abuse. They do look the part though 👌🏻.
Last edited by joelle king; 29 November 2022 at 03:50 PM.
#251
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I decided to let a YouTube car reviewer by the name of Jayemm On Cars do a review of the car. He’s reviewed some fantastic cars on his channel, everything from big power Evos and Skylines to XJ220’s and Ariel Atoms, so I thought it would be interesting to hear his thoughts.
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#252
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I realise I haven’t updated some other details on this thread, so I better catch up…
Ever since getting the car back I started to experience issues with the boost hose that ran from the turbo to the first metal intercooler pipe on the Process West FMIC. This had never been an issue with the MDX321T I was running previously. The problem is the compressor housing sits slight farther over towards the passenger side of the car. This is great for fitment purposes as I had to grind the block for the MDX turbo, but it now meant that the silicone joiner wasn’t quite long enough and no manner of constant tension of mikalor clamps would keep it on for any length of time. It’s not even a case of just buying a longer length of silicone pipe as it has a weird dogleg shape to it.
Instead, I had the opportunity to put an ETS intercooler kit in its place with a thicker 4” core. This went on without issue and the problem was now solved. I also swapped out the Perrin intake for an ETS speed density intake to match the intercooler, both the intercooler and intake have 3” pipework. I did have to modify the washer bottle to make the intercooler fit, but it came out nicely in the end and looks OEM. I also ended up trimming the front bumper to give a little more flow to the core itself, and I’m happy with the way it looks.
One final thing was some tidying up under the bonnet. I wasn’t happy with the red theme any longer so ended up putting the standard alternator cover (not on in the photos) and fender covers back on for a more OEM look. I also had a Cobb radiator shroud that I’d purchased cheaply some time ago that I then added. The red Perrin shroud I had before didn’t work with the thicker Koyo radiator, but there’s no such issue with the Cobb one. Ultimately I think it’s given it a bit more of an OEM+ look about the engine bay.
Ever since getting the car back I started to experience issues with the boost hose that ran from the turbo to the first metal intercooler pipe on the Process West FMIC. This had never been an issue with the MDX321T I was running previously. The problem is the compressor housing sits slight farther over towards the passenger side of the car. This is great for fitment purposes as I had to grind the block for the MDX turbo, but it now meant that the silicone joiner wasn’t quite long enough and no manner of constant tension of mikalor clamps would keep it on for any length of time. It’s not even a case of just buying a longer length of silicone pipe as it has a weird dogleg shape to it.
Instead, I had the opportunity to put an ETS intercooler kit in its place with a thicker 4” core. This went on without issue and the problem was now solved. I also swapped out the Perrin intake for an ETS speed density intake to match the intercooler, both the intercooler and intake have 3” pipework. I did have to modify the washer bottle to make the intercooler fit, but it came out nicely in the end and looks OEM. I also ended up trimming the front bumper to give a little more flow to the core itself, and I’m happy with the way it looks.
One final thing was some tidying up under the bonnet. I wasn’t happy with the red theme any longer so ended up putting the standard alternator cover (not on in the photos) and fender covers back on for a more OEM look. I also had a Cobb radiator shroud that I’d purchased cheaply some time ago that I then added. The red Perrin shroud I had before didn’t work with the thicker Koyo radiator, but there’s no such issue with the Cobb one. Ultimately I think it’s given it a bit more of an OEM+ look about the engine bay.
Last edited by Danjo; 14 March 2023 at 09:29 PM.
#253
Scooby Regular
Hello mate, video was fantastic 👍
real beast 👌
real beast 👌
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#256
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
That’s a naughty looking engine bay 👌🏻.
#258
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
#259
Scooby Regular
we supply very specific "Murray" clamps normally that are far superior to pretty much anything we have previously used, between that and making sure that the tube is clean and has a decent bead on it then >3BAR is easy peasy..........
#260
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I’ve got Mikalors on it currently but I will be swapping to the Murray’s at some point. I’ve used them before and they’ve been excellent on previous builds. Good to know you stock them Alyn 😊.
#261
Scooby Regular
Mikalor's have a very basic flaw IMO as they focus the 'clamp' on one side and tend to pinch the hose rather than the Murray which helps to evenly spread the load all around
#262
Scooby Regular
It’s been a while since I updated this, mainly because I can’t get into my original account which is highly frustrating, so I’ve had to create a new one!
Anyway, some time ago I noticed the odd puff of smoke coming out the back of the car which seemed to be turbo related to me. I took the turbo off and sure enough the rear oil seal had chewed away the ring groove causes excessive clearances and oil passing into the downpipe. Rather frustrating as this stock location Precision had done less than 5k miles.
I made a quick call to Craig Bellworthy to discuss getting mine rebuilt. He was extremely busy, and although he said he could do it, it would take him a while as he just had so much on. He did offer to take mine in exchange for a turbo that he had on the shelf ready to go, with the bonus that it’s a larger turbo so should make a bit more power.
the turbo started life as an original MD321V turbo with the larger GT32 turbine wheel before they swapped to the GT30 turbine wheel in the newer MDX321V’s. The issue with the older V’s is that they had a smaller compressorwheel that was also non-billet, but Craig had upgraded this to the newer and larger billet wheel. He had also upgraded the roller bearings and added step rings and a stronger actuator.
The specs for the Precision 5530 that came off are:
55/76mm comp wheel
60mm turbine wheel
Vs Craig’s hybrid:
58/76mm comp wheel
64mm turbine wheel
Fitting this turbo wasn’t straightforward though as it requires a 3” turbo inlet and I soon ran into issues with clearances against the STI TGV deletes I had on the car. The STI deletes are externally the same as the standard TGV’s and there’s no way of getting the 3” inlet to fit those in place, as can be seen below:
The easiest option would be to replace the inlet manifold with a Spec C / JDM manifold without TGV’s but they typically go for silly money. So the next option was to sell my TGV deletes and replace them with RCM billet TGV deletes that’s have a much thinner profile:
I had to buy some longer bolts as I’m using thermal spacers and the ones RCM supplied were not long enough, but once that was sorted I managed to get it all installed.
I even managed to further modify the standard turbo heat shield to keep it looking OEM+.
A quick oil change and she was ready for priming before firing up.
A quick test drive and all was well. Immediate thoughts are the spool up on this turbo is VERY loud due to the anti surge housing. It sounds like it’s had a T51R mod, but I like it.
Anyway, some time ago I noticed the odd puff of smoke coming out the back of the car which seemed to be turbo related to me. I took the turbo off and sure enough the rear oil seal had chewed away the ring groove causes excessive clearances and oil passing into the downpipe. Rather frustrating as this stock location Precision had done less than 5k miles.
I made a quick call to Craig Bellworthy to discuss getting mine rebuilt. He was extremely busy, and although he said he could do it, it would take him a while as he just had so much on. He did offer to take mine in exchange for a turbo that he had on the shelf ready to go, with the bonus that it’s a larger turbo so should make a bit more power.
the turbo started life as an original MD321V turbo with the larger GT32 turbine wheel before they swapped to the GT30 turbine wheel in the newer MDX321V’s. The issue with the older V’s is that they had a smaller compressorwheel that was also non-billet, but Craig had upgraded this to the newer and larger billet wheel. He had also upgraded the roller bearings and added step rings and a stronger actuator.
The specs for the Precision 5530 that came off are:
55/76mm comp wheel
60mm turbine wheel
Vs Craig’s hybrid:
58/76mm comp wheel
64mm turbine wheel
Fitting this turbo wasn’t straightforward though as it requires a 3” turbo inlet and I soon ran into issues with clearances against the STI TGV deletes I had on the car. The STI deletes are externally the same as the standard TGV’s and there’s no way of getting the 3” inlet to fit those in place, as can be seen below:
The easiest option would be to replace the inlet manifold with a Spec C / JDM manifold without TGV’s but they typically go for silly money. So the next option was to sell my TGV deletes and replace them with RCM billet TGV deletes that’s have a much thinner profile:
I had to buy some longer bolts as I’m using thermal spacers and the ones RCM supplied were not long enough, but once that was sorted I managed to get it all installed.
I even managed to further modify the standard turbo heat shield to keep it looking OEM+.
A quick oil change and she was ready for priming before firing up.
A quick test drive and all was well. Immediate thoughts are the spool up on this turbo is VERY loud due to the anti surge housing. It sounds like it’s had a T51R mod, but I like it.
Last edited by Dan.jo; 13 August 2023 at 07:01 PM.
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#263
Scooby Regular
So the turbo required a map tweak, but it turned out the self learning that comes with VE tuning on the Emtron tuning model meant the turbo was within safe limits immediately. A few extra tweaks meant the car made more power than the old setup. The old figures were as follows:
520bhp and 550lbft on 99 octane
560bhp and 600lbft on 20% meth
the new turbo made the following:
550bhp and 575lbft on 99 octane
583bhp and 610lbft on 20% meth
The fuel started to get hot, so could benefit from a fuel cooler, otherwise we would have probably have broken the 600bhp barrier. The twin in-tank pumps work the fuel quite hard.
The car feels a lot faster than it did before. Peak figures don’t tell the whole story, the car is now making 50bhp more than the old setup at 5k rpms.
See below old and new dyno graphs.
The car doesn’t feel any laggier than before. As a street car with that amount of torque it feels impressively fast. I’ve been in higher power cars with 2.1 and 2.35 engines that feel a lot less aggressive than this, so I’m pleased with the outcome. I just need to look after the gearbox!
520bhp and 550lbft on 99 octane
560bhp and 600lbft on 20% meth
the new turbo made the following:
550bhp and 575lbft on 99 octane
583bhp and 610lbft on 20% meth
The fuel started to get hot, so could benefit from a fuel cooler, otherwise we would have probably have broken the 600bhp barrier. The twin in-tank pumps work the fuel quite hard.
The car feels a lot faster than it did before. Peak figures don’t tell the whole story, the car is now making 50bhp more than the old setup at 5k rpms.
See below old and new dyno graphs.
The car doesn’t feel any laggier than before. As a street car with that amount of torque it feels impressively fast. I’ve been in higher power cars with 2.1 and 2.35 engines that feel a lot less aggressive than this, so I’m pleased with the outcome. I just need to look after the gearbox!
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#265
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
My car was recently featured on the overdrive YouTube channel where it was driven in anger by racing driver Scott Mansell.
https://youtu.be/6eDvwBiPAyA?si=g0Pc8DMCv7YkixBz
https://youtu.be/6eDvwBiPAyA?si=g0Pc8DMCv7YkixBz
#267
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Its mental mate! I have had to completely change my driving style,I've been driving subarus for the last 20 years and have taken for granted how well they stick to the Road ,the Hellcat just wants to kill you all the time even with the traction control on but I'm getting used to it now🤣
#268
Scooby Regular
Looks like he was so happy driving Your car, laughing all the time,he even dropped a tear.
In black blob he had to focus on driving more ,most probably lost because of brakes.
In black blob he had to focus on driving more ,most probably lost because of brakes.
#269
Scooby Regular
Its mental mate! I have had to completely change my driving style,I've been driving subarus for the last 20 years and have taken for granted how well they stick to the Road ,the Hellcat just wants to kill you all the time even with the traction control on but I'm getting used to it now🤣
#270
Scooby Regular
The black car is owned by a friend of mine and it’s such a weapon, it’s so fast it really is demanding to drive! The brakes are the weak point, the rest of the car is savage.