Curious... what undersealing was done before you picked it up?

 

Dinitrol, but only where they could spray it without removing anything like bumpers or arch liners, so pretty pointless. I may be repeating myself to you, but when you collect your car, one place you must check are the roof seams when you lift up the hatch, which rust on many hatches. I didn't have a good experience with them, and the car was handed over with the dipped beam headlights inoperable, something I didn't find out until the evening, forcing me to drive on full beam. They also installed a rear fog clear bulb, which they had coloured red with a marker or paint, plus a bare metal chip on the roof which I didn't notice initially, probably from the transporter. I seem to be a lone voice in being unhappy about them, so maybe it was a one off, but they put me and my family at risk, and I'm still pissed off with them. I think people are taken in by the flash presentation and rare cars, and I would seriously consider that you should strip your car back like I'm belatedly doing, given it's age and mileage, and where you live. I wish that I'd done it myself on import, though I don't regret a moment of ownership, and I'm sure you won't either.

 

I’m coming to the conclusion that I just won’t drive it when there’s salt on the roads - it’s too special a car. Although mine has had the bumpers and sill covers removed for undersealing and the chassis rails injected.

Planning on having a £2-3k run around as a back up anyway, so that can take the punishment.

TGT are certainly not perfect. When I picked up my Spec C RA, the first I knew about the sticky dash was when I was sat in it. They also did the ‘paint the bulb red’ thing with the Mrs’ Civic FD2. Didn’t know about that until the paint burnt off and it failed it’s Mot.

I will say though that they seem to be going the extra mile this time. They’ve spent a lot on replacement parts for it after their inspection - including the 2 piece front discs and pads all round - parts they’ve used would have cost me just shy of £1k from their website.

 

Fair play to them. I would be less naive and more demanding if I used them again. At the time, they hadn't imported many, if any, hatches, and I thought that maybe they just didn't know them that well. But there were warning signs; they thought Jasma was an exhaust make, when it is a trade testing body.

 

Another spec C feature that I forgot was the aluminium bonnet.
No, I'm just repeating myself.
How about smaller battery, **** thin paint, alleged higher pressure power steering pump, and anti surge fuel pick up.

 

Exhaust off

Washed, fallout remover, tar remover, 1200 wet paper, autosol on a da.

 

I'm tackling this today

Removal, sand down, Bilt Hamber deox gel, BH zinc primer.
It's worth checking your fuel filler neck pipe, as it's not just classics and new age that suffer from rust.

 

Might be going from the inside out though?

 

Just superficial on the outside, but I can see it being a problem in a few years. Removing it has defeated me; it would need to be bent, even if I dropped the sub frame.

 

The one stumpling block

 

Don, thank you for confirming that! .......As I skinned my knuckles getting the rubber pipes off, and then spent the next 2 hours in denial of what is now obvious. I thought it was going to be such a neat job...oh well.

When I get a big shed built I plan a full suspension rebuild, all powder coated.

 

The banana is ready for the summer now mate if this covid thing ***** off

 

Unfortunately it's going to be sorned, as I can't justify taxing and insuring it in the current climate, let alone putting fuel in it.

 

I don't blame ya matey petrol at an all time low and nowhere to go ffs

 

Converted the rust prior to sealing with BH hydrate 80

 

Dirty roof rails cleaned


Bilt Hamber Surfex got rid of all the stained dirt

30 min bay clean with hose, Surfex and AG rubber and plastic trim guff

 

Lovely looking motor mate!

 

Cheers. I was admiring yours!

 

What about his car?

Sorry.... I’ll get ma coat.

 

Snarf snarf, as the actress said to the bishop

 

Gave my flap a good ******* too

 

Excellent work , crossed a few good jobs off the list . Whats next ?

 

How come your grill different?, I’ve seen a few like that and think they’re smart!

 

I'm just working my way from the back to the front; with the arrival of a decent degreaser all the front arches are being done again, all the underside, particularly the surface rust on components around the gearbox and front chassis bits (although Enginetuner did the engine bay last autumn) then the front bumper area, all voids with BH dynax s50, clear UC ( when it arrives) under plastic and liners, odd spots of rust on paintwork behind trim/jacking points etc rubbed down, then deox gel stripped/hydrate 80 converted and zinc primed, then touched up with 2k sunrise yellow.
The further I go, the more I learn, finding that I need to go back over the earlier jobs.
It's all a bit driveway spec, the constant wind blowing tools and containers around, so the ultimate intention is to get a shed built, remove all the sub frames and components for powder coating, new group N bushes, calipers and wheels refurbed etc, but that's a long way off, so maybe even a respray by then.
I've belatedly realised that regular wax sealing on all these unseen areas is crucial for year round use and maritime environments.

 

It came like that, along with the yellow badges. There are a variety of different "sports grills" available for the hatch. I much prefer the de chromed look; those silver exhaust trims had bothered me for years!

 

 

JDM Grill.

This is getting me enthused for a bit of rust protection action.

Hedge, could you detail the products you have used and how you found them?

 

I agree, I’ve been contemplating changing out the silver parts to black such as the fog lamp surrounds. I don’t have the exhaust trim though.

Haha, same here, what have you done to us Hedge! I think I’ve found a new love for the car.

 

Hi Matt. I started off trying to finish up leftover products, which being leftover weren't very good in the 1st place eg cheap fallout remover and Autoglym powerwash. Previously on my very rusty tipper I had used Bilt Hamber and was generally impressed, so I have started over again with their degreaser, Surfex HD. This yellow paint is very soft, and absorbs/stains even with blue screen wash, and Surfex has made it easy, an excellent product. Preparation is everything,
Rusty areas have been rubbed or brushed down with wire brushes, wire wool and or wet and dry. Where removable, they were coated in BH geox C gel for 24hrs, scrubbed down, dried and undercoated with BH electrox high zinc spray. I also used this for little paint chips and rubs which aren't in visible areas.
Originally I ordered AG degreaser from Cleanyourcar, but I'm still waiting after nearly 2 wks, so ordered from Opie Oils, local to me and 48hr or less delivery. They are more expensive, but always give -10% for Scoobynet.
On the sub frame etc, I used wire brush, drill brush, degreaser and BH hydrate 80 rust converter. I wish I had a better range of nylon and wire brushes.
I am waiting for some dryer weather, then treating all voids with BH S50, which is their highest, and most liquid anti corrosion wax, and all other areas (under trim and underneath) with BH UC, which is a clear anti corrosion wax. I've also got some BH Atom mac, which is great for corrosion protection down to 1% solution as a spray on bare surfaces, even discs.
One product that I won't buy again is BH medium clay, which is too hard and needs warm water all the time, although it works well with just water.
The bodywork will be snowfoamed with AG Polar blast, an exceptionally foamy one, powerwashed, degreased with Surfex, de-tarred with AG tar and bug, and clayed. It doesn't need fallout remover at the moment. Then I will DA polish with Minerza; it's quite marled and swirly but the paint is soft and thin, so I think 2500 then a finish. I've been using up AG super resin polish, which has fillers, and AG gloss protection, then over wax with Colinite. I didn't find Colinite as long lasting or beady as AG high definition wax, but it is half the price. I've used Poor Boys wheel wax, and AG plastic and rubber trim restorer. I was given most of the AG stuff by the inlaws when they bought new cars as it comes as a freebie kit, but it's actually good stuff, as is their pro stuff if you can get hold of it.
I've also used Dodo juice and Meguires in the past, but as you can see by that state of the car, I am no detailer. I don't normally have the time, and much prefer driving it. I also bodyboard ALOT, so I don't really have many brownie points left over from the boss for cleaning.......


Until now.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply Will be investing in some BH products....