How much for a set

 

They’re not difficult to knock up if you’ve got a drill, tap to thread the holes and a hacksaw although a grinder is a lot easier than a hacksaw.

 

Certainly not a bad idea, although you gain more because the header tank is higher 👍 and will make it in a better situation to collect air.
Before topping up.

 

You mean to bleed air out of the system? Hadn’t thought of that but I suppose it might make a difference. It’ll probably make the hoses a little easier to get on and off too having that extra finger gap.

 

That’s the alternator rebuilt with brand new brushes, bearings and some shiny stainless bolts, a Blob/Hawkeye power steering pump rebuilt with all new seals and bearing and the air con pump rebuilt with a few new seals. Oh, and of course a bit of paint and some nice new lightweight but standard size pulleys for the alternator and power steering pump. All the fittings on the power steering pump have been rezincified thanks to a zinc plating kit I purchased recently. The actual zinc coating is coming out nicely but the passivate is a bit crap and is mostly just rubbing off. I blame all these modern rules about harmful chemicals. I’m probably going to try obtaining some of the proper old passivating chemicals.

 

One front hub fully rebuilt with fresh paint, brand new Koyo bearing, some electronic zinc coating wizardry and brand new extended ARP studs.



Other front just needs pressed together to match. The rears need a bit more work on the back plates before I can assemble them.

 

Even though they rarely get seen I wish my hubs looked like that

 

Sure is a lot nicer than the usual rust colour. Wonder how long before that’s back though with our typical UK conditions.

 

I wonder if applying a ceramic coating would help with that?

 

Maybe but I think it’d be the exact same problem that causes the rust. Any damage to the coating becomes a weak spot for water and salt to get in then it rusts outward. It’s why I’m not bothering with powder coat as when it gets damaged the corrosion can just creep under and lift it off. I fully expect that to happen eventually with the paint too but at least I haven’t gone to the expense of powder coating.

 

Thats why some use chassis paint which is softer and doesnt chip as easy.
You can also use a self healing wax over the top of chassis paint or powder coat which works well, as long as theres no rust to begin with.

 

Ive tried a few chassis paints now and have given up and just use 2k now. That’s actually VHT Roll Bar/Chassis paint on the front hubs and there’s Frost chassis paint on a few other parts like the fuel tank but it chips so easily in comparison to proper 2k paint. The epoxy mastic primer should provide the bulk of the impact resistance anyway and the top coat is more for aesthetics.

 

Have you tried that Raptor Liner stuff?

*U-Pol Raptor

 

I know of it but haven't used it. Isn't it quite expensive and I don't think it'd be very good for individual components. For the main body it might be good but I think I'm going to stick with normal stone chip over epoxy mastic.

 

Hopefully a bit of tiger seal will help stop the problems that rust can cause with the backplates.



If the disc shield looks a little handmade that’s because that’s exactly what it is. The actual backplate was solid but as is all too common the shields had rusted away. It’s not pretty but it’ll do the job.

 

hmm, wont that actually catch fire back there if the car is used in anger for a long time? Like if you were to go on a track day etc?

 

The thought had crossed my mind but I just don’t think the backplates get that hot given they’re not in direct contact with the brakes. The paint on there originally doesn’t seem to be anything special and doesn’t burn off. Guess I’ll find out eventually. I could have used some high temp silicone but that can’t be over painted like the tiger seal.

 

Unfortunately I think work on the car is going to need to be put on hold for a while. I was attacked yet again a few weeks ago by the neighbours for using the pressure washer at 9.30 in the morning in the back garden. I’ve been trying to push through it but the last few days my anxiety has got to the point I can’t even step out of the door without having a panic attack so doing any work outside just isn’t possible. I might manage the very occasional small bit inside but that’s not going to get the car finished.

I can guarantee the car is going nowhere though. It feels like they’re winning right now when I’ve had to stop working but they won’t win in the long run.

 

Attacked wtf. for working on your car during the day?
Neighbours hey.... ****ers

 

Get a paintball gun. If they start it, it's self defense...

 

That sucks Neighbour disputes/rude neighbours take the joy out of everything outside and cause massive anxiety for a lot of people

Hopefully you'll feel better in a couple of weeks, but IMO (I'm not a professional, obviously), don't push to get out there "because you have to get it done". Definitely not if you're having panic attacks.

Might be worth speaking to:
a) the police if the neighbours physically assaulted you

b) here in England the NHS let you self refer to the mental health section ( https://www.nhs.uk/mental-health/tal...ing-therapies/ ). Not sure what side of the border you are on, but that might be an option. My CBT sessions with these people were really good.

 

Thanks Henrik. The police were called but nothing came of it, yet again. In fairness to them they came and had a good chat with both us and the neighbours separately but that didn't do anything to solve the problem. They were here for about 2 hours which at least was a lot better than the couple of minutes they came for last year and basically said the neighbour was right to attack me! Panic attacks etc are nothing new to me unfortunately but that does at least mean I have found some very basic coping skills that sometimes help.

 

Still think if they **** with you again you should unload a paintball gun on them.


Then light a box of fireworks & shove it through their letterbox.

 

That'd just be coming down to their caveman level of thinking

 

Still not back to working on the car but I haven't been sitting totally idle. Little sneak peak at what I've been working on the last few weeks:

 

Oh lovely, I also have an Ender 3! Great little printers for the money

 

Yep I’ve wanted a printer for a while and this one popped up for a decent price. It’s taking some time to work out the CAD software but I’m getting there. I did a little back in high school but that was over a decade ago now and I can’t remember any of it.

 

Just to prove to myself more than anything there is still some work getting done a few small updates.

Made myself a DIY Prodrive gearbox mount thanks to some polyurethane and a Hardrace mount. Regret using such an obvious plasticine now but it should eventually go away but this was after lots of scrubbing with warm soapy water and a stiff brush. It's not like it's in a noticeable spot either way.



Got hold of the matching front subframe a while ago but haven't touched it until I realised the epoxy primer I have is already well overdue being used up so I got it prepped in some Electrox and the epoxy is currently drying/curing. You've probably all already guessed the final colour.




And lastly for this update I made myself some nice little exhaust port covers.



I've got a few more interesting bits I'm still working on but I'm not letting the cat out of the bag until I've actually finished them or at least know for sure they're going to work.

 

Does the rear subframe you have lower the angle of whatssit thinggy?

 

It's all meant to be stock height etc so in theory nothing should change except the reduced weight and increased stiffness but until it's all together I'm not going to be certain. I'll work around whatever changes the subframes introduce if any.