Maybe a good excuse to get some of those fancy aluminium mounts from Whiteline or somebody else if there’s anybody else who makes them to replace the pressed steel units.

 

Been using this every so often and mileage is now 49xxx miles. Had it for just about exactly 20 years now.

finally got myself a little wing for it too - the prodrive one so that it doesn’t look like an sti rep the prodrive wing has aged really well, I think.


I used window flashing strips under the new wing to stop scratching, and o rings around the bolt holes. Remains to be seen if the o ring idea works or not.





Very nice upgrade in my opinion.



cost 140 off ebay. The paint is not amazing with some orange peel etc, but it will do for now

 

Nice present for the car, Happy Birthday

 

had to happen at some point, but I just rolled over 50000 miles.

ironically enough, on the way to the petrol station 🤦‍♂️

 

another MOT pass pic.


car was off road for 9 months again, because I wanted to fix up the exhaust.

its now running a ppp downpipe, ppp decayed centre section, miltek 2.75 centre (but i added a silencer), and a wr sport (ppp basically) backbox. It’s almost too quiet now 🤦‍♂️


I got the cat for 100-something , knowing that it was rusty, but as I kept poking it, it just got more and more holes, so now it looks like a patchwork quilt

Welding jig from an old turbo turbine housing, and random bits of wood 🤣


all the patching:




mini silencer added



emissions passed (if only just for CO - 0.18 vs 0.20 limit). For next year I will wrap it to keep some extra heat in the cat.

In other news I also sprayed a bunch of bilt hamber underbody wax into the sills and underside.


id totally forgotten how much more raw it he Subaru is compared to the other run-around (Mini Cooper s) - I don’t think it’s much faster in reality (maybe it’s even slower), but it certainly feels faster with all the rattles.

 

Just back from a power run at Hayes Engineering http://www.hayesdynotech.co.uk .




310hp/320lbft flywheel figures, on the td04 hybrid.

Running quite rich at the moment, at 10.2 AFR, so probably a tad more power in there if that’s leaned out.

 

Good headline figures but it seems to come on power quite late? I would have expected a 2.1 with a TD04 hybrid to be spooling up and making torque 1k earlier. Looks more like a bigger TD05/VF35 response.

 

correct, I think it’s because it’s the bigger exhaust housing / turbine I fitted (it’s almost td05 sized), and I guess the extremely rich map doesn’t help, though maybe that’s more a power figure issue rather than spool.

Just as an aside, I think the rich AFR is because when the car was mapped, it was on the scoobysport 100 cell cat, which was hard to get through the MOT, so I fitted that PPP cat above, which I suspect is more restrictive.

going to try out a td05-16g billet next, because with spool like this might as well have more power

 

In hindsight, I should have used a normal wrx td04 hot side, but live and learn.

 

I think I figured out what was going on with the spool 🤦‍♂️

the wastegate was so loose the flapper flapped about when I took the turbo off.



second issue was a massive exhaust leak in a join in the manifold. I could hear a leak already before, but I thought it was between downpipe and centre section so didn’t bother with it 🤦‍♂️

 

When you removed the turbo, as per pic 1, is the wastegate actuator and rod still connected? If it's not, then yes, the wastegate will just flap about. If it didn't, you'd have a bigger problem!
If the wastegate actuator rod was still attached and the wastegate was moving easily, then the spring is weak and not holding the wastegate closed. In that instance, the turbo would only make mechanical wastegate pressure ~7psi.

So I'd suggest that the wastegate isn't the cause of your slow spool. The exhaust leak on the other hand, very well might be. Or it could just be the bigger exhaust housing as you mentioned previously.

 

It was still connected, yes.

 

How did it make any boost on the dyno run?

 

Because the wastegate flapped about by about 1-2mm, ie partially open.

 

sounds more like the preload on the actuator just needed set. As its a td series turbo it would have the threaded bar actuator rod allowing it to be set

 

Yes. I assumed that "flapping about" meant wide open, not just a couple of mm.

 

Yes, it’s weird because I set the preload when it went in, so something has changed.

though having said that, it was an original td05 actuator, so at least 25 years old, so who knows.

 

A year or so ago I bought a “professionally repaired” RCM manifold off ebay, together with a Harvey up-pipe.

well, as expected the pro repair was nothing like pro, but rather a bead of weld that I could chip away with a chisel 🤦‍♂️

nice gap


the other welds were in a similar state, so I cut an access hole and welded it up myself.

it doesn’t look pretty, but it’s gas tight and looks ok even on the inside (checked with bore scope)



after this I invested in a die grinder



I’ve tested it, and it doesn’t leak and hasn’t cracked again so far

 

i've always wanted to try a td05-18g, so i decided to build one.

The kit is a mamba comp housing + billet wheel - lets see how this behaves.

Not sure what's going on with photo uploads at the moment, but basically I have some random td05 bits lying around, from about 3 different turbos. Among them two CHRA housings, but the problem is that the 18g wheel will not physically fit into the well on the cold side of the CHRA, hence it had to be modified on the lathe.

Step number one was actually to true up the _other_ side of the chra, so that I could use it as a register to make the CHRA run true when I turned it around (The CHRA is a rough casting with no tolerances on the exhaust side).

After the true-up was done, the housing was bored out to fit the new wheel, and also built up to a complete CHRA. The exhaust wheel is a plain old td05h wheel, which fits directly into my standard td05h housing (7cm).

Fitted a brand new wastegate actuator this time, and set the preload.


The thing that took the absolute most amount of time was the oil return and coolant lines. Basically I didn't have a good td05 oem set of lines, so I bought a set off ebay, which fitted incredibly badly. I spent nearly a week of evenings messing around with the water lines before they would first of all fit, and second not rub on anything. I think it's OK now, but there was a lot of bending and swearing involved. The oil return was also completely out, as you can see from the photo, but luckily i had a spare one of those already.

 

I also got a new 200CPI japspeed downpipe, but unfortunately my old centre section didn't fit with it.

However, I had yet another centre that sort of was in the right area, but too short and incorrect flange angle, so I used that to build a temporary jig of sorts, eye-balling the left hand side.

After this was done, I chopped the exhaust I actually wanted to use to bits, and welded it up. It's now got a silencer and a flex-section to allow some give.

Surprisingly it worked perfectly.


The car hasn't been mapped yet, but I can already tell it drives much "nicer" with this setup (off boost), and as a bonus it's not trying to suffocate me.

So far there aren't any leaks from the manifold area, so fingers crossed it's going to work OK. I'm currently using the car as a daily-driver, while my actual daily-driver is on axle stands for some front suspension work. Once that is complete, I will book into slowboy for a map, cambelt change, and probably fuel pump change too. The current walbro is only 25k miles old, but it's also 20+ years old so probably overdue a swap


This brings the thread up to date again.