Loving the DX80, 32,000 genuine lumens for peanuts.

Getting favourable reviews, apart from the charger!!!

​​​Wonder when Acebeam will beat it!

 

4 brightest lights currently on the market (though X45 is now 18,000 lumens)

 

Just ordered a blf q8 and some 30q cells, should be good for 5000lumen.

Couldn't say no, should make for a good xhp70 host should i go there later on.

 

Good light, there aren't many lights that size that offer both 5000 lumens, sophisticated UI and 450m of throw for £60 odd.

The Astrolux MF01 and Noctigon Meteor match it but cost more.

 

From what I've seen online, it's over 6000 lumen so closer to the Meteor. Seems it's been undervalued, that and I'll be throwing in a few brass screws to kick it up an extra 2-300lm

Only trouble is I've only went and bought flat tops, they work fine but doubt they're all making contact. From the charger three out of the four took a bit of charging after use.

Got some 5mm magnets along with some sugru, should fix the issue, I'd solder them but the gears back at somewhere I don't plan on visiting soon.

It's a quality light. Threads are nice and deep, the lamp unit has real heft, overall feels like a quality torch.

Good mix of flood and throw, which I prefer. Got other torches for more specific tasks.

Meant to add I got it for £38, it was on offer now shot up to £60 from all the popularity.

 

Advance Knife Bro measure the Q8 at 4500 lumens which makes sense as it's more or less the Emisar D4 which I get at around 4500 lumens. I'd just buy some button tops, might be too much resistance in the magnets.

 

Will do, have replaced it with some brass screws, have noticed bit of a difference.
4500lm does sound more reasonable, given my nitecore ea41 is around 1050 or so.

I'm waiting for someone to modify it, be pretty epic having four xhp70's in there.

 

Had a moment of weakness and bought one of these whilst drooling on board the Snap On toy shop (and simultaneously crying at how much I still owe).

https://store.snapon.com/Project-Lig...t-P907271.aspx

Not the brightest, but it is a genuine 700lm rather than the fake "1000+lm" rating you get on a lot of stuff which is the max LED chip rating if it had a beefy enough driver, cooling and battery to power it, and nearly all don't! (Or don't last, as found out on my cheapy XML-T6 torches; all of which have suffered driver failure).

Quite impressed with it so far. Battery life is better than expected.

 

Just bear in mind they're far away from being Snap On.

 

That POS would be Bluepoint over here...Or maybe counterfeit, it looked nasty before he took it apart. Plus different languages on the box, which is odd as even the packaging is usually better quality

There was a large floodlight our guy had on his van and it looked nothing like the one in the Vid. More like a giant version of the puck light.

The flashlights are usually rebranded Coast (post LED Lenser) which are pretty robust, but bloody expensive for the lumen output/battery size.

 

Had a feeling you'd know better, just thought I'd give you a heads up that they do cheap rebrands quite a bit as well.

Video is worth a watch, he's a pretty funny guy and far more knowledgeable than he lets on.

 

Yeah his attitude to unprotected 18650s is on par with me; I must have a dozen loose in various states rolling around in the toolbox ready to short out against something in my "torch grave yard" - which is a Chinese-takeaway tray in one of the drawers.

I do have to wonder why you'd pay the extra for a branded light only to just to gut it and throw in new internals; Ok it's only $30 at Costco but the housing isn't much cop either, well, not for a workshop environment: Thats why I say you won't see that on Snap-On van because with non-reinforced glass and flimsy bracket it would get bent or broken within a week and they'd be inundated with returns. They do have to purchase all their own stock so it would make zero sense to purchase stock that's a load of crap.

By no means am I saying Snap on stuff is perfect, I've had my issues: I did buy a stepless roller-clutch ratchet (FZero); Which was great for two weeks before the mechanism started sticking. Had the internals replaced, then swapped with a new one. It just couldn't cope with the cold and damp, despite lubrication. Had a refund on it in the end. I also had a 1/2 breaker bar ratchet that kept falling apart (admitted it was never quite right after using it to turn over a seized engine with a scaffold pole on the end ) . Had it replaced with the later "stronger" version, FOC, no questions asked.*

*I guess it depends how good the sales guy is. Some are **** heads out just make every last penny from you, and fob you off on returns regardless how much you spend.

 

Well he did for giggles obviously, and as always he goes mad with it.

As for anyone else, meh I dunno myabe they thought it'll be fine, only to find what a pos it is.
Oh I'll buy cheap, just gotta be decent, much as i love the daft lights I can't justify the price tag.(says the guy with a 900lb/ft milwaukee impact)

Maybe some people just like to fiddle.
No such thing as a single decent brand these days, most tools are made in china. Even Wera are made in the Czech Republic.

 

This is a great light with 63% off. £44 down to £16.
I've bought 3 so far, I measured 0ver 1550 lumens which is insane for the price, B&Q sell a couple of 180 lumen lights for £30.

​​​Run it off a Sony VTC or Samsung 30Q battery, not Ultrafire!!!

https://m.banggood.com/BLF-A6-XPL-16...15067332201710

 

Just forked out £800 for a 4k camera to do better youtube torch vids!

 

Acebeam to release a 40,000 lumen torch shortly, that's getting into stadium flood light territory.

 

One of my torches is the size of my middle finger and draws 20amps at 4v, Protected batteries just aren't an option but they are making them with far less resistance lately.

I'd love to know how many watts my 60,000 lumen Acebeam X70 develops.

 

The Torches I'm getting sent to review are getting more and more bizarre!!!

 

Torches are getting more and more bizarre by the day!


This is the f**king USER MANUAL!

Anduril User Manual ------------------- Anduril is an open-source firmware for flashlights, distributed under the terms of the GPL v3. The sources can be obtained here: http://tiny.cc/TKAnduril https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykee...nster/anduril/ Quick Start ----------- After putting a battery in the light and tightening the parts together, the light should quickly blink once to confirm it has power and is now operational. After that, basic usage is simple: - Click to turn the light on or off. - Hold the button to change brightness. - Release and hold again to change brightness the other way. That is all the user needs to know for basic use, but there are many more modes and features available for people who want more. Before reading the rest of this manual, it is recommended that users look at the Anduril UI diagram, which should be provided along with the flashlight. Ramping / Stepped Ramping Modes ------------------------------- Anduril's normal operation mode uses a smooth ramp or a stepped ramp, depending on which style the user prefers. Each ramp has its own settings -- floor (lowest level), ceiling (highest level), and the stepped ramp can also have a configurable number of steps. There are four ways to access this mode when the light is off: - Click: Turn on at the memorized brightness. - Hold: Turn on at the floor level. The light should give a very subtle dark blink when the user can let go of the button to stay at the floor, or keep holding the button to ramp up. - 2 clicks: Turn on at the ceiling level. - Click, hold: Turn on at the ceiling level, then ramp down. While the light is on, a few basic actions are available: - Click: Turn off. - 2 clicks: Go to or from turbo (full power). - Hold: Change brightness (up). If the button was released less than a second ago, or if it's already at the ceiling, it goes down instead. - Click, hold: Change brightness (down). - 3 clicks: Switch to the other ramp. - 4 clicks: Go to ramp config mode. - 5 clicks: Activate manual memory and save the current brightness. - 5 clicks, but hold the last click: Go back to automatic memory. The "automatic" vs "manual" memory modes change the level the light goes to with 1 click from off. In automatic mode, it uses the last brightness the user ramped to. In manual mode, it uses the brightness the user explicitly saved with 5 clicks. Other Modes ----------- Anduril has several other modes too. To access these, press the button more than 2 times when the light is off: - 3 clicks: Access the blinky / utility modes. - Click, click, hold: Access the strobe modes. - 4 clicks: Lockout mode. - 5 clicks: Momentary mode. - 6 clicks: Muggle mode. Blinky / Utility Modes ---------------------- Click 3 times from Off to access Anduril's blinky / utility modes. This always starts at battery check and the user can proceed to other blinky modes from there. The sequence is: 1. Battery check. 2. Sunset mode. 3. Beacon mode. 4. Temperature check. In all of these modes, some basic actions are available: - Click: Turn off. - 2 clicks: Next blinky mode. Additionally, in beacon and temperature check modes: - 4 clicks: Go to the beacon config mode or thermal config mode. In more detail, this is what each blinky / utility mode does: 1. Battery check. Blinks out the battery voltage per cell. Full is 4.2V, empty is about 3.0V. The light blinks the whole-number digit first, pauses, then blinks out the "tenths" digit. Then a longer pause, and it repeats. So for 4.2V, it would be "blink-blink-blink-blink .. blink-blink". A "zero" digit is represented by a very quick blink. 2. Sunset mode. This starts at a low level, then dims gradually for an hour, and then shuts off. It is intended for use when going to bed. 3. Beacon mode. Blinks at a slow speed. The light stays on for half a second, and then stays off until the next blink. The brightness and the number of seconds between pulses are configurable: - Brightness is the user's last-ramped level, so set this in ramping mode before starting beacon mode. - Speed is configured in beacon config mode. Click 4 times to enter beacon config mode, wait for the light to stutter, then click to enter the number of seconds per blink. For example, to do a 10-second alpine beacon, click 10 times. 4. Temperature check. Blinks out the current temperature in degrees C. This number should be pretty close to what a real thermometer says. If not, it would be a good idea to click 4 times to enter thermal config mode, and calibrate the sensor. Thermal config mode has two settings: - Current temperature. Click once per degree C to calibrate the sensor. For example, if the ambient temperature is 21 C, then click 21 times. - Temperature limit. This sets the maximum temperature the light can reach before it will start doing thermal regulation to keep itself from overheating. Click once per degree C above 30. For example, to set the limit to 50 C, click 20 times. The default is 45 C. Strobe / Mood Modes ------------------- Anduril includes a few extra modes for a variety of purposes: - Candle mode - Bike flasher - Party strobe - Tactical strobe - Lightning storm mode Click 3 times from Off to access these, but hold the third click for a moment. Click, click, hold. The last-used strobe mode is remembered, so it will return to whichever one you used last. In all of these modes, a few actions are available: - Click: Turn off. - 2 Clicks: Next strobe / mood mode. - Hold: Increase brightness, or strobe faster. (except lightning) - Click, hold: Decrease brightness, or strobe slower. (except lightning) Additionally, candle mode has one more action: - 3 clicks: Add 30 minutes to the timer. In more detail, here is what each mode does: - Candle mode Brightness changes randomly in a pattern resembling a candle flame. If a timer is set, it will run until the timer expires, then get dimmer for one minute, then sputter and turn itself off. Without a timer, candle mode runs until the user turns it off. Brightness is configurable. - Bike flasher Runs at a medium level, but stutters to a brighter level once per second. Designed to be more visible than a normal ramping mode, but otherwise works mostly the same. Brightness is configurable. - Party strobe Motion-freezing strobe light. Can be used to freeze spinning fans and falling water. Speed is configurable. - Tactical strobe Disorienting strobe light. Can be used to irritate people. Speed is configurable, and the duty cycle is always 33%. - Lightning storm mode Flashes at random brightness and random speed to simulate lightning strikes during a busy lightning storm. Do not look directly at the flashlight when this mode is running, because it may suddenly go to full power without warning. Lockout Mode ------------ Click 4 times from Off to enter Lockout mode. This makes the light safe to carry in a pocket or a bag or anywhere else the button might be pressed by accident. To exit lockout mode, click 4 times. The light should blink briefly and then return to the regular "off" mode. Lockout mode also doubles as a momentary moon mode, so the user can do quick tasks without having to unlock the light. The brightness in lockout mode has two levels: - Hold: light up at the floor level of the current ramp. - Click, Hold: light up at the floor level of the other ramp. Momentary Mode -------------- Click 5 times from Off to enter Momentary mode. This locks the flashlight into a single-mode interface where the LEDs are only on when the button is held down. It is intended for Morse code, light painting, and other tasks where the light should be on only for a short time and probably in a pattern. Momentary mode does either a steady brightness level or a strobe. To select which one, go to the mode you want to use, adjust the brightness and speed and other settings, then turn the light off. Then click 5 times to enter momentary mode. Supported momentary modes are steady (normal ramping mode) and strobes (everything in the "strobe" mode group). In steady mode, brightness is the last-ramped level, so adjust that before entering momentary mode. In momentary strobe mode, the settings are copied from the last-used strobe mode, such as party strobe, tactical strobe, or lightning. To exit this mode, physically disconnect power by unscrewing the tailcap or battery tube. Muggle Mode ----------- Click 6 times from Off to enter Muggle mode. This is a simpler and less-bright interface which makes the light relatively safe to lend to children or other people who could use the light unsafely. In Muggle mode, there are only a few available actions: - Click: Turn the light on or off. - Hold: Change brightness. - 6 clicks: Exit Muggle mode. The brightness in this mode usually goes from about 10 lm to 300 lm. Muggle mode is remembered even after changing the battery. This helps prevent children from exiting the mode by unscrewing the tailcap. However, be sure to supervise children whenever they are using any powerful tools, including a bright flashlight. Note: If the light steps down in muggle mode, it probably needs to have the temperature sensor calibrated. Use thermal config mode to do this. Configuration Modes ------------------- Every config mode has the same interface. The menu has one or more options the user can configure, and it will go through them in order. For each menu item, the light will follow the same pattern: - Blink one or more times, corresponding to the item number. - Stutter or "buzz" quickly between two brightness levels for a few seconds. This indicates that the user can click one or more times to enter a number. It will keep buzzing until the user stops clicking, so there is no need to hurry. - Pause, and then go to the next option. After the light has gone through all of the menu options, it should return to whatever mode the light was in before entering the config mode. If the user doesn't press a button during a menu item's "buzz" phase, that item remains unchanged from its previous value. Ramp Config Mode ---------------- While the light is on in a ramping mode, click 4 times to enter the config mode for the current ramp. For smooth ramping mode, there are two menu options: 1. Floor. (default = 1/150) 2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150) For the stepped ramping mode, there are three menu options: 1. Floor. (default = 20/150) 2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150) 3. Number of steps. (default = 7) To configure the floor level, click the button equal to the number of ramp levels (out of 150) at which the floor should be. To set the lowest possible level, click once. To configure the ceiling level, each click goes one level lower. So 1 click sets the highest possible level, 2 clicks is the 2nd-highest, 3 clicks is the 3rd-highest level, etc. To set the default of 120/150, click 31 times. When configuring the number of steps, the value can be anything from 2 to 150. Protection Features ------------------- Anduril includes low voltage protection (LVP) and thermal regulation. LVP makes the light step down to a lower level when the battery is low, and if the light is already at the lowest level, it shuts itself off. This activates at 2.8V. LVP adjustments happen suddenly, in large steps. Thermal regulation attempts to keep the light from overheating, and otherwise adjusts output to stay as close as possible to the user-configured temperature limit. Thermal adjustments happen gradually, in steps so small they are difficult for humans to perceive. Aux LEDs / Button LEDs ---------------------- Some lights have aux LEDs or button LEDs. These can be configured to do different things while the main emitters are off. There is one aux LED mode for the regular "off" mode, and another aux LED mode for "lockout" mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is locked. Aux LED modes typically include: - Off - Low - High - Blinking To configure the aux LEDs, go to the mode you want to configure and then click the button a few times: - Off mode: 7 clicks. - Lockout mode: 3 clicks. This should change the aux LEDs to the next mode supported on this light. If the aux LEDs can change color, there are additional actions to change the color. It is the same as above, but hold the button on the last click and then let go when the desired color is reached. - Off mode: 7 clicks, but hold the last click. - Lockout mode: 3 clicks, but hold the last click. For lights with a button LED, the button LED typically stays on while the main emitters are on. Its brightness level is set in a way which mirrors the main LED -- off, low, or high. For lights with front-facing aux LEDs, the aux LEDs typically stay off when the main emitters are on, and when the light is otherwise awake. The aux LEDs on most lights only turn on when the light is asleep.

 

Love this little beast!


pricey though

 

Can't go wrong for £20!! A hell of a lot of torch.

 

Maybe even better value than the ECO1, 7400 turn on lumens for just £36.97!!

 

£8 torch with battery and charging cable, any good?

 

Just wondering, are there any legal restrictions to using some of these torches you review? Some of them are ridiculously powerful and surely have safety/privacy implications.

 

Some cycle lamps are offensivly bright nowadays imo

never mind cars

 

It's a topic that is getting mentioned more and more, I suspect there will have to be legislation drawn up soon, especially regarding some of the laser like torches that can shine over 2000 metres.

 

Couldn't resist...

 

Just upgraded my old P60 Ultrafire host from an xm-l to an xhp 50.2

Damn is all I can say, why didn't I do this sooner. It's a more useable light, good spill and throw and no doughnut.

I have an xhp 70.2 torch, but dare say I kinda prefer this one.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3301...27424c4dknrQO3

 

Cost me an arm and a leg, am I loosing it?

 

Got me a Vapcell S4 plus coming, figured my intellicore i2 just isn't enough, finally a decent fast charge.

Also an On The Road U16, wanted something small, cheap usbc chargeable and has an easy to find button.
My Boruit 70.2 and EA41 are a bit cumbersome when I'm out feeding the horses.