2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
Yes including the 2.0l versions (JDM) 
Noted....I think I am getting a little carried away.
I don't have the time to be hands on I am afraid work is to busy along with family life.
If you're a hands on kind of guy then there is serious money to be saved going the DIY route, but from what I've seen of you over the years you're not that guy.
So better to spend your time and end up with what you want than your money and end up with what you don't want.
What's a couple of months in the greater scheme of things.
Also ScoobyClinic (just remembered where you are) can give you what you want along with many others I'm sure.
So better to spend your time and end up with what you want than your money and end up with what you don't want.
What's a couple of months in the greater scheme of things.
Also ScoobyClinic (just remembered where you are) can give you what you want along with many others I'm sure.
What I meant to say is, it's better to wait a while and let someone give you what you want than to do all of this running about asking questions and getting conflicting answers, as you don't strike me as the hands on sort.
So in short, get your wad out and let someone do it for you.
AKA 'chequebook tuning.' (Or should that now be termed 'chip & PIN tuning' 
).
No muss, no fuss.
If you've got the wonga (and ain't got the time)...it's the only way to fly.
).No muss, no fuss.
If you've got the wonga (and ain't got the time)...it's the only way to fly.
Last edited by joz8968; Nov 22, 2016 at 09:31 PM.
To be fair Andy at WMS has given me the same advice as most of you including not to go for a billet crank and he is taking care of the whole build and answers any questions I have, but I am still interested in what others have done. Although opinions do differ and it can be a little confusing the input of fellow SN members is greatly appreciated.
The block has been machined and the pistons and rods have arrived and bottom end should be done in a few week.
The block has been machined and the pistons and rods have arrived and bottom end should be done in a few week.
To be fair Andy at WMS has given me the same advice as most of you including not to go for a billet crank and he is taking care of the whole build and answers any questions I have, but I am still interested in what others have done. Although opinions do differ and it can be a little confusing the input of fellow SN members is greatly appreciated.
The block has been machined and the pistons and rods have arrived and bottom end should be done in a few week.
The block has been machined and the pistons and rods have arrived and bottom end should be done in a few week.
Rear Thrust conversion done and drilled for 14mm AS Performance headstuds.
Omega pistons have arrived to just waiting on the rods, crank and a few other bits!
The block is off or a clean and I will have some more pics of the block along with the rest of the bits next week.
Omega pistons have arrived to just waiting on the rods, crank and a few other bits!
The block is off or a clean and I will have some more pics of the block along with the rest of the bits next week.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 561
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From: Pinching one out
I went for the billet crank because I will most likely put the stock engine back in to sell the car and can use this engine in a track car and go for more power if I get the itch the last thing I want to be doing is pending another 12k-15k on another engine.
Another one wgo will throw good monry after bad and ignore good advice no matter what!
Ffs if the man wants to spend his hard earned on gucci parts then let him.
Hes had the advice and chooses to spend anyway, who are we to judge!
Imo if you got cash to flash, then why not.
Hes had the advice and chooses to spend anyway, who are we to judge!
Imo if you got cash to flash, then why not.
Crank does look good
If I was putting that in there. We'd be talking gas O ring conversion, det rings, seriously worked heads, dry sump full mashings
If I was putting that in there. We'd be talking gas O ring conversion, det rings, seriously worked heads, dry sump full mashings
Last edited by joe v3sti; Dec 8, 2016 at 07:20 PM.
no point putting decent parts in it and ignoring the rest...
