Rust removal from classic wheel arches
#31
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Wow that's preaty horrendous that pipe ... I get a smell on mine but only when driving il have to double check that
Last edited by Jimmyrallye; 14 October 2016 at 04:31 PM.
#32
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Worth checking for sure, started only a little smell but got worse, the hole wasn't limited to that area but as I tried to cracking the nut it just got bigger.
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Little update and only a few holes to drill for the sill covers and some brackets to hold the bumper and she's ready for some spraying. Can't wait to have her back on the road.
Cutting the existing rivited patch revealed a complete a**e hole of a job.......a patch over a patch over a large rusted hole......just why!!!
So new sill section and the repair panel in, looking like a patchwork rear end but rust free.
Cutting the existing rivited patch revealed a complete a**e hole of a job.......a patch over a patch over a large rusted hole......just why!!!
So new sill section and the repair panel in, looking like a patchwork rear end but rust free.
#34
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The more i look at this thread the more I realise I'm going to have to take mine to a proper bodyshop/coachworks to get it done - I'm nowhere near on your level! amazing job
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DI'd they take any pics of the metal work before the filler?
Last edited by Evansawd; 13 October 2016 at 04:28 PM.
#38
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I've checked all the boot took carpet out and the side. I got my hand right down in that gully bit and it was solid .. I did have a leak where previous owner put a difrent wing on I had to take it of to fit a new brake light in the spoiler..so sealed all holes up that wasn't in use ... I'm worried about the sill bits like you said.. one thing they did tho was on the rear lips they undersealed it flush so no water can sit on top on the inner lips which is a good idea
Last edited by Jimmyrallye; 13 October 2016 at 05:38 PM.
#39
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Great thread which is an inspiration to all classics owners
Mine started bubbling at 9-10 years old and finally got the rust tackled at year 16
Next it a full restoration underneath
Wishbones ,subframes and suspension bits to be replacedwoty a mixture of new components which will be powder coated and some hardrace and white line products to replace parts
A full report will be done as work progresses
Mine started bubbling at 9-10 years old and finally got the rust tackled at year 16
Next it a full restoration underneath
Wishbones ,subframes and suspension bits to be replacedwoty a mixture of new components which will be powder coated and some hardrace and white line products to replace parts
A full report will be done as work progresses
#41
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So rear end is done, side skirts and spats go back fine.
Checked under the boots seal and seen a little rust so cut that out and welded some new in which wasn't a long job just very thin to weld to.
Noticed a bit of rust coming on the front drivers sill and bottom of the front wing so decided to fabricate the bottom of the wing rather than buy a whole new one.
Little bit of the sill left which should be done today then she can coated in rust inhibitor and undercoated with epoxy primer before the filler job starts.
Checked under the boots seal and seen a little rust so cut that out and welded some new in which wasn't a long job just very thin to weld to.
Noticed a bit of rust coming on the front drivers sill and bottom of the front wing so decided to fabricate the bottom of the wing rather than buy a whole new one.
Little bit of the sill left which should be done today then she can coated in rust inhibitor and undercoated with epoxy primer before the filler job starts.
Last edited by Evansawd; 15 October 2016 at 01:45 PM.
#42
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So the wing and sill on the front all complete. Now to pray for a dry day to epoxy primer before filler. Will be doing a few simple mods and service jobs while it's parked up and a front calliper refurb with all new stainless pistons and seals courtesy of Ian at Godspeed and she should be back on the road (huge celebrating from me)
Last edited by Evansawd; 16 October 2016 at 04:22 PM.
#43
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So it was time to play around with some of the "smaller" fixes while the weather dried up enough to get a primer coat on. 1st was the rattling boot spoiler which was put on very very poorly. Instead of drilling neat holes the animal who put it on mus have used a hammer and punch, splaying the edges of the holes into sharp snagging edges. The spoiler was attached using extremely oversized bolts and then the holes filled with close to a tube of silicone...... ohhhhh I love idiots who diy and make it all so much worse.
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Haha my boot is exactly the same as yours people must not own a drill as mine looks exactly like that !! I have managed to get it water tight tho il have to take a picture and show you
Last edited by Jimmyrallye; 17 October 2016 at 06:01 PM.
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So now the question I've been thinking hard about.....do I go for the original dark green metallic or go the whole hog and maybe go matte black. Seen a few on interweb and just can't make my mind up......
#47
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She's now at the garage waiting for room to rub down and spray. I'll be up there tomorrow preping and will show you the mess the previous owner has made in the parcel shelf to fit some 6x9''s I'm thinking a pick axe was used to bludgeon a hole. Ridiculous.
So now the question I've been thinking hard about.....do I go for the original dark green metallic or go the whole hog and maybe go matte black. Seen a few on interweb and just can't make my mind up......
So now the question I've been thinking hard about.....do I go for the original dark green metallic or go the whole hog and maybe go matte black. Seen a few on interweb and just can't make my mind up......
Top work there mate that's quality, why don't you spray the car the same color it is now then get it wrapped matt black, will also protect your newly painted bodywork, Great stuff though mate going to follow this one closely
Thanks Aaron
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I've thought about a wrap to protect the paint just no idea the cost of it so not really taken it serious. I'm 90% persuaded to keep her original but there's that little devil on my shoulder whispering sweet nothings ha ha.
Thing is that it's had so many pieces from various models it's far from original 96 and not sure how that would affect future sales value. Guess if the time come I could drop the original v1 parts back in.
Thing is that it's had so many pieces from various models it's far from original 96 and not sure how that would affect future sales value. Guess if the time come I could drop the original v1 parts back in.
#52
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So it's been a while but nearly there. Decided to go the whole hog and rub down all the cracked pain on the bumpers and skirts while I was at it. There was a significant whole in the low front lip after I clipped the high ramp at mates garage. So off came the lip and some fiber glass and filler sorted that. A small rub down turned into a full on project in itself.
With great thanks to KIPS front mount intercooler install sticky I thought now was a great time to add the bigger intercooler. Now I know there is much controversy surrounding FMIC over TMIC but as the tiny top mount on the phase 1 was in such bad condition and just tiny I did it anyway. With a little mapping on the esl to remove potential lag.
Not in a specific order these pics I'm afraid but heres a preview of the previous spray.
All primered and ready for top coat.
With great thanks to KIPS front mount intercooler install sticky I thought now was a great time to add the bigger intercooler. Now I know there is much controversy surrounding FMIC over TMIC but as the tiny top mount on the phase 1 was in such bad condition and just tiny I did it anyway. With a little mapping on the esl to remove potential lag.
Not in a specific order these pics I'm afraid but heres a preview of the previous spray.
All primered and ready for top coat.
#54
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Slow progress but nearly there. Now to spray the sideskirts and the small bonnet scoop and I have two days to put it back together and mapped with bigger injectors and fmic and start new job. Nothing like pressure to get a car back together.
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Not had chance to get any good after pics but here is an idea for now. The mica green that went on is a slightly different mica green for what is on it. The respray it had previous to me has a lot of metallic fleck rather than just metalic so will need a respray again at some point but for now it's bloody close and rust free.
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31 May 2016 08:48 PM